Steering Rack/Tie Rod Ends question

[Nuthuts96]

So- I just went through the entirety of "95.5...96-02 4Runners" and found a couple threads faintly related to my recent problem...none that helps me too much, and I'm still learning about the rack-and-pinion steering system as the hours pass.

Here in Vermont, state inspections are required every year. (This is quite the inspection, but is mostly visual). A LOT more involved than the emission testing I encountered in WA!

I took the runner in to get inspected, expecting a "pass with flying colors" but get the bad news: "fail". They said it failed due to the driver's side inner tie rod (which is really the rack end, right?) had too much play. I'm guessing "too much" play=ANY play. They said it needed a new End, $85, and maybe new rack (~$800), etc etc...

I was wondering what your thoughts were on replacing the steering rack bushings to get it into spec. for another inspection. I know you don't know the other issues that are possibly present with the outer tie rod ends, rack condition, but by replacing the bushings with the kit from wheelersoffoad.com, could the "play" in the system be tightened up?

There isn't too much play in the steering wheel (within the 30mm tolerance in the FSM).

[Seanz0rz]

replacing outer tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, and steering rack bushings, the front end of my truck feels like a new vehicle. that being said, im not sure those items would solve your issue. i would have the inner joint replaced as per their recommendations, then go from there.

[Nuthuts96]

Thanks for the reply. Can I replace just the rack end (the part that directly screws into the steering rack)...and is that a place where play is possible? I'm looking at the diagrams supplied in the FSM about the steering rack and I only see one bushing... maybe someone can point out what the wheeler's offroad bushing kit replaces. It looks like it has 9 components in the kit on the website. I'll include a picture if you don't have access to a FSM (or don't want to look it up, understandably).

Also, the FSM shows a bunch of non-reusable parts that, if i understand correctly, is not available unless a whole rack assembly is ordered... do you just reuse the parts, or are they available from the dealer? thanks!

scott

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd35/scottnabbie/rackcopy.jpg


Bushing Kit from Wheeler's Offroad:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd35/scottnabbie/rackbushkit.jpg

[Seanz0rz]

on the rack housing, you see one bolt that goes through the center. that is the smaller bushing/sleeve. towards the driver's side of the rack, there is a through bolt that runs horizontally through the rack and through the cross member. it is long, 8 inches maybe. that other huge bushing goes around the rack on the passenger side with a saddle over it.

i am not intimately familiar with the rack ends, so i dont think im qualified to answer your other questions.

[Nuthuts96]

thanks a lot seanzorz! i think you've pretty much just convinced me to have the shop take care of it for now- though, now that i'm more read up on the procedure, i'm thinking the bushing kit is something i'll try to tackle in the future. i figure since i changed a timing belt... :D
hopefully their $75 fix will get me through the inspection. *how i wish i were somewhere an inspection isn't in the picture*

[Seanz0rz]

move to cali, just have to pass smog!

[Nuthuts96]

haha- kinda just moved 3k miles...probably won't be doing that again, for a bit anyway. WA emissions was it too (in 3/39 counties). Everywhere else, nothing.

[Nuthuts96]

i take it all back! this can't be TOO hard, right? :tapedshut: :drink:

the only problem is the price of the inner tie rod end! WOW, does it differ by place/brand!
Dealer is over $130 for ONE side, while NAPA is ~$45-50. I'll be calling Northridge when they open to see what they can do.

Any tips for a first time tie rod end change? ie: lock steering wheel, mark where threads are on the tie rod, etc...
thanks!

scott

[20005spd]

i take it all back! this can't be TOO hard, right? :tapedshut: :drink:

the only problem is the price of the inner tie rod end! WOW, does it differ by place/brand!
Dealer is over $130 for ONE side, while NAPA is ~$45-50. I'll be calling Northridge when they open to see what they can do.

Any tips for a first time tie rod end change? ie: lock steering wheel, mark where threads are on the tie rod, etc...
thanks!

scott
those inners are deff expensive. i wonder how similar the napa one is? i got an outer from autozone the other day and it was made in japan and looked identicle to the stock one. you pretty much got it, lock the wheel, count how many turns it takes till the outer tie rod comes out of the inner. replace the inner then put the outer back in the amount of times you counted it

edit: i wouldnt rebuild one of these racks, waste of time IMO, theres alot of them around used