Delete this please.

[Obi..]

Thanks.

[elripster]

If the LSPV is way off that's a good place to start.

I have towed way to much weight for thousands of miles in a trip with 33's and didn't warp a rotor. In fact, if these trucks have something, they have brakes...big 4 piston vented disk brakes. Sounds like the rears aren't working at all or the Brembo rotors aren't what they should be.

Frank

[slosurfer]

Yeah, I have to agree with Frank, I've driven 33's and my m416 through plenty of twisty grades. I've never had a problem with the brakes. I'll go out and get those measurements from mine. I'm thinking the rear isn't coming into play like it should.


My brakes are all stock and toyota brake pads in the front put in a long time ago when I first got the 4runner. :laugh:

[Cebby]

Are you a two foot driver? (aka resting your left foot on the brake pedal)

Improper torquing of your wheels will also cause issues with rotors warping.

Have you done some panic stop tests with the LSPV in various positions?

I used to have an issue with my rotors warping until I went to Powerslots. No problems since. The heat/gas needs somewhere to escape - slots and/or cross drilling accomplish this. (I have Stillen C/D rotors at all 4 corners on my WJ to solve a similar problem - and to improve braking performance)

[slosurfer]

Okay got some measurements for ya:

LSPV riser bracket from center of bolt to center of bolt: 3.5"

center of Castle nut to LSPV arm nut center: 3"

The best measurement I could find to get for axle to frame height was the center of the panhard mounting bolt straight up to the frame: 13.25" (this measurement will be easier to replicate than top of axle tube to the frame since there is so much stuff in the way right there on the axle tube.

[Seanz0rz]

also, something they apparently dont teach in driving school, use your lower gears on the grades. i know that doesnt eliminate the need for brakes, but it will keep you off the pedal alot.

[slosurfer]

Me thinks you need to make your LSPV at least an inch taller.

Here's my rational on it:

since our lspv arm bolt to castle nut is the same we can throw that one out for the sake of math

I get the ratio of LSPV lift to height 3.5/13.25 = .264

now we plug that into your height since it seems like this ratio seems to brake fine for me

12*.264 = 3.168" is what your lspv rise should be (or at least a good place to start)LOL

So, yeah, got the same number as you but in a different way. :laugh:

[CJM]

FWIW you could swap to T100 rotors and front calipers. The rotors are thicker and the calipers are better afaik. Cause they gave me pick up rotors and they didnt fit right so I had to go back to napa!!

Also, make sure the rears are adjusted so they are near touching the drums. FSM for the t100 specifies they be within 1mm... I cit a playing card and used that to gauge it.

[slosurfer]

FWIW you could swap to T100 rotors and front calipers. The rotors are thicker and the calipers are better afaik. Cause they gave me pick up rotors and they didnt fit right so I had to go back to napa!!

Also, make sure the rears are adjusted so they are near touching the drums. FSM for the t100 specifies they be within 1mm... I cit a playing card and used that to gauge it.


From what I've seen, my 4runner has the same calipers as the t100 according to corax's thread. I don't know about the rotors though.

Good info on the rears. :thumbup:

[CJM]

From what I've seen, my 4runner has the same calipers as the t100 according to corax's thread. I don't know about the rotors though.

Good info on the rears. :thumbup:


Interesting, so yours are finned the same way huh?

Yea as for the rears, my pedal still had all this travel..couldnt understand it till I adjusted them to that point and wow..

[elripster]

Chris, thanks for measuring. It's hella cold and starting to snow so I wasn't terribly excited to crawl under the truck.

Just curious, how does the e-brake feel? Does it get tight before it tops out?

Frank

[slosurfer]

I'll have to look again, but I'm pretty sure they are exactly like the T100 ones that corax has. I know for sure that they have the same number stamped on them.

But there could be a difference between the 2wd and 4wd 4runners, kind of like how the MC was different between the 4runner v6 with or without ABS. I looked on pirate and couldn't find a calipers list like they had for the MC list.

[slosurfer]

Chris, thanks for measuring. It's hella cold and starting to snow so I wasn't terribly excited to crawl under the truck.

Just curious, how does the e-brake feel? Does it get tight before it tops out?

Frank


Haha, yeah I was laughing when he told you to go measure. It was 70* in my driveway so it wasn't too bad, haha. I did get slightly dirty though. :D

[corax]

I'll have to look again, but I'm pretty sure they are exactly like the T100 ones that corax has. I know for sure that they have the same number stamped on them.

But there could be a difference between the 2wd and 4wd 4runners, kind of like how the MC was different between the 4runner v6 with or without ABS. I looked on pirate and couldn't find a calipers list like they had for the MC list.


as long as teh cast number is the same the caliper is going to be the same, I found a file once listing the different years and which calipers they used, but now I can't find it

BTW, according to napaonline, the T100 and early 90's 4runner used the same rotors also
# of Bolt Holes:6
Bolt Circle Diameter:5"
Diameter:11.41"
Height:2.59"
Maximum Lateral Runout:.004"
Thickness When New:.985"
Discard Thickness:.905"
Vented / Solid:Vented
Center Hole Diameter:3.942"

the first gen had a .040" smaller diameter and ~.200" thinner rotor

[DHC6twinotter]

BTW, according to napaonline, the T100 and early 90's 4runner used the same rotors also
# of Bolt Holes:6
Bolt Circle Diameter:5"
Diameter:11.41"
Height:2.59"
Maximum Lateral Runout:.004"
Thickness When New:.985"
Discard Thickness:.905"
Vented / Solid:Vented
Center Hole Diameter:3.942"

the first gen had a .040" smaller diameter and ~.200" thinner rotor


That's some good info. My 4Runner was built in June of '89 and sold as a '90 model. I think I have these rotors, IIRC, unless the 2WD are different.

[elripster]

I'll see what I can do. I literally have to bust out the snow blower first but I have to do that anyway.

One way to rule out the LSPV is to disconnect the rod from the axle. Stop with it at full droop. Bungy it to something to hold it full on and stop again. There should be a big difference. If not, I'd say pop off the drums and investigate, something else might be wrong or the LSPV is adjusted way outta whack.

There's this whole procedure for pressure testing it and adjusting but I wouldn't even know where to get the tester.

Frank

[elripster]

I just thought of something else. All those saggy rear 4runners have their LSPV's maxed out if they are at all like my LSPV. I unbolt it and the rod only goes up a short distance until it tops out, then it just flexes as the axle continues to rise. I think slosurfer noticed the same thing once in another post. Those saggers seem to stop just fine too.

If I'm right, you could just max it out and leave it there or leave it just under max? Even just putting a bracket that leaves it ith like 1" uptravel would likely work.

Frank

[slosurfer]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure mine was maxed out before my lift. The spring sag was pretty bad and I got close to 5" of lift with the 80 springs. I knew it wasn't a true 5" over stock, so that is why I guessed with 3.5" of lspv lift. If I remember right, I had another bracket all set up that was higher if this one was too little of a lspv lift. The other thing would be to make a bracket with the holes at different heights, thus making it easy to adjust in .5" increments.

[CJM]

I would say making a bracket with 1/4" increments just so you can play around with it more.

[slosurfer]

I would say making a bracket with 1/4" increments just so you can play around with it more.


That would be a little hard to do considering the holes for the bolts to go through are bigger than 1/4" but you're right you may be able to get it closer than 1/2" increments.

Although I guess you could make an extra wide bracket with offset holes making 4 rows of holes. :thumbup:

0 0
0 0
0 0
0 0

vs.
0 0
0 0
0 0
0 0

[slosurfer]

Remember, this isn't structural. It is just holding up a rod. Mine is aluminum. :thumbup: As long as it isn't "floppy" it is fine.

[elripster]

You don't need very strong stuff to make this bracket, it holds little load. You can use cheapo mild steel and it will be fine.

Frank

[CJM]

Chepo decent sheet should do. If it were me I would use some of that flat stock with holes already in it from like home depot. They use it for garage doors and stuff.

[slosurfer]

Yeah, CJM, I remember seeing someone who used that stuff and it worked out good. :thumbup:

[CJM]

Indeed slo, its cheap like 5 bucks maybe and you can cut it to any length really-they come in like 3ft lengths iirc.

[elripster]

Chepo decent sheet should do. If it were me I would use some of that flat stock with holes already in it from like home depot. They use it for garage doors and stuff.


That's a good idea. That stuff is often galvanized too so it won't rust easily.

Frank

[CJM]

That's a good idea. That stuff is often galvanized too so it won't rust easily.

Frank


I hadnt even thought of that, that makes it all the more better since any sheetmetal unless its AL will rust eventually.

[Cheese]

My truck, when it was stock, was less than 14" rim to stock fender with 15's in the front and around 13" in the rear.

After a 1" bodylift and much molesting, it is 20" in the front and 18.5" in the rear.

LSPV and that stuff are long gone.

My recollection is that with a 1" bodylift, SAW torsion bars all the way relaxed, BJ spacers and stock 80 coils in the rear it was 16" at each corner.

Hope that helps.

[slosurfer]

Mine are ~15" at all 4 corners (with 1/2 tank of gas, full 20# CO2 tank, and my spare parts/offroad box, and some tools, but I do still have the chrome/rubber trim on my fenders. I know :gay: