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Nuthuts96
01-29-2009, 11:01 AM
Any special tools I need for replacing the bushings on the rack? ie: huge socket... i got the important out of the way- PB blaster now until the event takes place on saturday. I'll be changing out the bushings the same time I replace the driver's side inner tie rod end. I've got a pitman arm puller, hope that'll work. looks like it should. don't want to use a pickle fork in fear of damaging the outer tie rod end (not getting replaced at the moment). last minute tips going into the weekend for a first timer on the steering business. I think me being on the ball about the PB is a good omen in and of itself! :wrenchin:

Seanz0rz
01-29-2009, 11:18 AM
22mm 6 point deep socket. The middle bolt will require that. Maybe also a 24 mm socket. Not positive on that one.

Grease up the new bushings to make it easier to go in.

If you need specific help the day of give me a call (I'll pm you my number)

Nuthuts96
01-29-2009, 04:20 PM
thanks! i think i may have that 22mm already.... thought i needed it for something...

Seanz0rz
01-29-2009, 07:38 PM
sorry, last post was from my iphone. heres more info:

other than that, just need to disconnect the driver tierod end. the rack is very heavy (alot heavier than i thought).

i had some corrosion on the driverside bolt. if you have a diff drop, remove the driver side spacer for the diff and jack up the diff to get that bolt out. i had to clean it up on the wire wheel to get the new washer on it. other than that, i had no rust, but the bolts still required lots of force to loosen. i can send you the torque specs for the rack if you need them. i remember them being in the 140 lb range.

Nuthuts96
01-30-2009, 06:19 AM
sounds like it should be simple! haha...nothing will go wrong.
i'll be taking off the outer and inner tie rod ends on the driver's side anyway, so that's a plus. what's the reason to disconnect the "driver's" side? just for play in the rack assembly?

i'll be doing this saturday night until i'm done (have until monday pm) so i'll give you a call if i run into any bumps. i saw those torque specs and picked up a torque wrench from autozone with their loaner program. don't have one of my own quite yet...

Nuthuts96
02-01-2009, 09:11 PM
Got the Kit in today. took a little extra time as i wasn't quite ready...forgot about the necessary wrenches to separate the inner from the outer tie rods. after the tie rod was off, it was just a matter of finding the bolt heads and loosening them for the first time in 13 years. PB blaster was probably my best investment in the project. broke all the bolts free, tore out the old rubber bushings with my needlenose, and pounded out the remnants. the wheeler's kit looked 10x better... hope that's how it turns out tomorrow.
install was a different story. i had problems getting the driver's side bushings/sleeve seated all the way. eventually just worked the bushings in place, after a lot of questioning my life and swearing. as for the sleeve, it would NOT go. just too tight, so i used the trusty press (aka stock bottle jack) wedged between a crossmember and the sleeve. VOILA! beautifully executed, done just in time for the game.

if i could recommend ANYTHING to a future bushing kit installer, get the middle mount bolted up first. the kit's instructions says the middle bolt will be lined up after you install the other two mounts, but it wasn't true for me! i'm guessing that the TIGHT fit is a GOOD thing :)
off to finish up the project (install new inner tie rod end with outer) so i can get an alignment and test drive the truck tomorrow. thanks for all the help and pointers.

tools needed for job (tie rod replacement and bushing kit):
22mm deep socket
19mm deep and shallow sockets
1 5/8" open ended wrench for tie rod end (huge wrench! borrowed from mechanic at work)
2 crescent wrenches (separating outer tie rod end from retaining nut)
8mm or 9mm socket
pitman arm puller (worked like a charm!)
torque wrench
18" breaker bar
brass drift/hammer

MTL_4runner
11-24-2009, 03:27 PM
Any update if the tie rod was the issue after you replaced it?

I'm looking at possibly needing an inner tie rod end to pass inspection, but I don't want to go through the trouble if it ends up I need a new rack (hopefully not, major PITA to get a remanned one up here).

Nuthuts96
11-24-2009, 09:34 PM
PM'd- the short answer, yes it solved my failed-inspection problem. no new rack necessary.

if you needed an american shipping address for anything, just give me a holler. the wife and i will be going north next week to adventure the big city... first time in Montreal.

Nuthuts96
11-24-2009, 09:47 PM
wow- the cost of a reman'ed rack is the cost of 2 inner tie rod ends from the local dealer! i could just be worth it... they look so clean and pretty, too!

MTL_4runner
11-25-2009, 09:52 AM
Thanks again for the update. I called the dealer up here and can you believe they wanted $271 for (1) one inner tie rod!!! Even the aftermarket ones were $150+ each. What a racket that is. Looks like I'll need to get my replacement from the states.

On a side note, you'll love Montreal. It's as close to Europe as you can get without leaving North America. Great city with plenty to do and see for everyone. If you don't mind the language barrier, Quebec City (2 hrs North of Montreal) is also a great place to visit.

MTL_4runner
11-25-2009, 04:36 PM
I went out and took the boot off the inner tie rod end to make 100% sure that was the problem......and it wasn't. :( It looks like the bushings inside the steering rack are worn causing it to move up and down when the driver's side wheel is moved. So now I'm on the hunt for a reasonably priced remanned rack or maybe even a used rack with low miles. I won't have the truck forever so I'm not spending $1500+ on a new rack from the dealer. :screwy:

I did verify with those that need to do an inner tie rod that the correct wrench you need is a 42mm crows foot or crescent wrench. Now that size is quite hard to find so most people seem to opt for a 1 5/8" wrench which is just a hair small but in practice probably works fine.

I also checked part numbers with Toyota of Dallas and here's what you'd need for a 4WD, 3.4L, 4runner:

45503-39075 - Inner Tie Rod

90460-62006 - Inner Boot Clamp

CJM
11-25-2009, 05:39 PM
I just saved you 1500 dollars...

http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/4runnerrackbushkit.htm

MTL_4runner
11-25-2009, 06:20 PM
I just saved you 1500 dollars...

http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/4runnerrackbushkit.htm


Marc, click on my signature..........I wish it were that simple.

With the boot off I could clearly see the rack moving up and down inside the housing, unfortunately it's toast.

CJM
11-25-2009, 08:13 PM
Oh I see, sorry Jamie.

I would try and source a used rack then since it will be much cheaper

MTL_4runner
11-26-2009, 03:38 AM
Oh I see, sorry Jamie.

I would try and source a used rack then since it will be much cheaper


I think you're right, that may be the cheapest route to go. Failing in that there is a place on eBay, Garo Rack & Pinion Inc out of Florida (100% positive feedback) that will ship a remanned rack to Canada for around $400. I'll see what aftermarket remanned racks are going for at places like Napa, Carquest, etc. I suspect I won't get anywhere near $400 though.

Anyone had any experience with that place Garo Rack & Pinion?
Here's their ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com/GARO-STEERING/Warranty-Information.html

Nuthuts96
11-26-2009, 01:31 PM
I did verify with those that need to do an inner tie rod that the correct wrench you need is a 42mm crows foot or crescent wrench. Now that size is quite hard to find so most people seem to opt for a 1 5/8" wrench which is just a hair small but in practice probably works fine.


you are right- a 1 5/8" open-ended wrench (which is a MONSTER, by the way) is what i used (it was tight, but i just tapped it onto the tie rod end with a mallet)- borrowed from the heavy-vehicle mechanic at work. worked well- only downside was i couldn't torque it to spec, just tight (but there are other fail-safe measures in place to keep it from backing off)

sorry to hear about the rack! i think i saved mine in time with the new poly bushings.
another brand for reman'd racks i've come across is Maval. they're going for $323 after core charge on partstrain.com

if you need an american shipping address, you know where to find me.

Happy Thanksgiving!

-scott

MTL_4runner
11-26-2009, 05:11 PM
Thank you to Scott and others who have offered their addresses for shipping parts, it is most appreciated. I did a little digging today and found a local place that appeared to have 7 steering racks of various mileage which would be a fit for my truck and they quoted my $150 each taxes in. The lowest mileage one was around 85k miles which isn't too bad considering the age of the vehicle. My only concern is how long it might last since they often leave the trucks in the yard with the rack attached so it's hard to inspect them all at once to pick the best one.

Crinale
11-28-2009, 12:49 AM
pay the $150 for the used one, order the poly bushings and install them at the same time... then as long as the used rack isnt toast, the bushings should keep it from getting worse... and all for less than $200

MTL_4runner
11-28-2009, 04:47 AM
pay the $150 for the used one, order the poly bushings and install them at the same time... then as long as the used rack isnt toast, the bushings should keep it from getting worse... and all for less than $200


I already have the poly bushings installed in my old rack so it's just a matter of swapping them over.

The used rack does come with a 90 day warranty, I just don't want to have to do the job twice since it's starting to get a bit chilly outside.

In case anyone is looking at going strictly OEM, the correct P/N's from Toyota are:

44250-35042 rack assy, NEW (complete rack minus outer tie rods)
44200-35042-84 rack assy (Toyota Remanufactured) rack with $150 core charge
45046-39335 RH, tie rod assy
45047-39215 LH, tie rod assy

MTL_4runner
12-18-2009, 04:05 PM
I finally ordered a rebuilt steering rack from Garo Rack & Pinion in Florida. They had great feedback from others and they have a 2 year warranty their parts so I decided to give them a try. I looked at used steering racks but with winter in full bore up here now, I don't really want to go hunting out in the junkyard for one that's still in good shape.

Anyway, I bought a rebuilt long rack (everything including the inner tie rods for $289 USD, no core charge) and then bought the outer tie rods from them as well ($40 USD a pair) so all the steering parts will be brand spanking new or rebuilt to OEM specs. Shipping was free in the US but it cost me around $55 USD to get it to Canada via USPS. I'll post some pics when I finally get it all installed.

Bighead
12-21-2009, 08:19 AM
Is the rack rebuilt with Toyota parts?



I finally ordered a rebuilt steering rack from Garo Rack & Pinion in Florida. They had great feedback from others and they have a 2 year warranty their parts so I decided to give them a try. I looked at used steering racks but with winter in full bore up here now, I don't really want to go hunting out in the junkyard for one that's still in good shape.

Anyway, I bought a rebuilt long rack (everything including the inner tie rods for $289 USD, no core charge) and then bought the outer tie rods from them as well ($40 USD a pair) so all the steering parts will be brand spanking new or rebuilt to OEM specs. Shipping was free in the US but it cost me around $55 USD to get it to Canada via USPS. I'll post some pics when I finally get it all installed.

MTL_4runner
12-26-2009, 09:49 AM
Is the rack rebuilt with Toyota parts?


Rebuilt to OEM specs, I very much doubt they used Toyota parts.
Won't know until I recieve it though.