DIY Cree Rocklights

[4x4mike]

After finding one of my rock lights broken I decided I wanted to change them up. The current set up is 2 banks of 2. One set is mounted to the frame between the wheels
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC05794.jpg
and the other 2 are under the rear bumper and shine out to the sides. I while I don't spend a lot of time in the rocks or wheeling at night these have come in handy.
Here is a picture of how the ones under the bumper look.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC05774-1.jpg
It's not even dark in that picture so it's hard to do it justice. This location is great for not only wheeling but also backing up, loading or hooking up a trailer and helpful at camp. These suckers pull 500ma and can stay on for as long as it's dark out and you'll have no problems starting in the morning.

My bum led is one of the ones midframe. The 2 mid frame ones run off the same regulator I used for my dome lights, 700ma. The plan is to remove the midframe ones, replace them and add 2 more in front of the front tires. These 4 will run off of one 1000ma regulator so each led will shine at 500ma, like the rears.

[slosurfer]

Nice!!!! :thumbup:

[4x4mike]

First step was to order the Led's. All my cree's have come from Cutter which is located in Australia. I like Cutter because you know what you are getting and you have many options. There are many different tints (even colors) and bins available. They are also different ways you can have them mounted. I have chosen the 20mm metal core PCB stars as they dissipate heat and are easier to solder than just the emitter. Places like deal extreme are known to have poor tint color and the output of the emitters are not consistent. Some write ups state that they burn out after a short time as well. They are cheap but I'm already doing this a second time, I really wouldn't enjoy a third.
Special delivery from the other side of the world.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06738.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06739.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06740.jpg

The metal core board will get hot so it's important to heat sink the leds. The emitter will last longer and burn brighter if the led is kept cool. Like my previous edition I will use copper as a heat sink.
Off to Homie D.
1" copper caps and Simpson A21's.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06709.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06707.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06704.jpg

I also needed some epoxy.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06700.jpg
I already had some JB weld which is also needed.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06711.jpg

[4x4mike]

The copper caps are a little too deep so you need to trim them. The first time I did this I used a hack saw and file. It took awhile but they did the job. Messing around later I used a 3" cutoff wheel. It's much more fun and faster but the SOB copper gets really hot (this is a good thing, think heat sink)and copper dust gets every where.
Cutting.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC05063.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC05064.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC05069.jpg

After gluing and before the jb trim.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06712.jpg

After I cleaned them up I mounted them to the A21's. The nice thing about the copper and galvanized steel is that they won't rust, you can bend them and JB weld sticks them together. The metal bracket is to be bent depending on your mounting location. You may want to do them differently depending on how and where you are mounting them.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06719.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06723.jpg

Shot them with some paint before mounting the LED's.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06724.jpg

[slosurfer]

I like your mounts. :thumbup:

Patiently awaiting the rest of the writeup. :smokin:


I wonder if I could make a few of these and splice it into the set I already have? I know visionx sell the individual pods and they told me they can just be spliced into the kit I already had. They said only to add two pods per existing light, as they weren't sure if the mastercontrol could handle more than that load. These pull an even lower load, so do you think it would work?

I want to add a couple to under the hood among other places.

[4x4mike]

Nothing like checking the oil with a disco strobe going on. Chances are you'll be able to splice something like this in. They're both LED's, the only thing is with these is that these leds are high power and when spliced in you don't don't know how much power they are all consuming. At about 500ma the cree xre pulls 3.2-3.3 volts. You would need to get data sheets or specs on you system and see what the leds are running at an maybe even the type of led. You can strobe/pulse the heck out of the crees so there isn't a real problem there. Here is the cree data sheet to look over.
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLamp7090XR-E.pdf

[slosurfer]

Ah, okay, I'll look into that.

Haha, I'm not too concerned about the strobes, although if I get the strobe just right in the engine bay, does that mean I don't need to get a timing light for my timing? :laugh:

[4x4mike]

Looks like my update post didn't get posted.
Anyways, here is the regulator.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06741.jpg
It's a little guy and costs about $15. You can make several different types of regulators but I'm not that skilled and am too ADD. This one is sealed and I know it can handle me. I have one in each of my domes lights so I know they can handle the summer heat of the roof. I've got one in the rear hatch so I know it can be slammed over and over and I have 2 under the 4runner. Those have been submerged and blasted by rocks and are still pumping. The led's run at about 3.2V and the regulator takes care of their management as they can't see 12v directly.

After I drilled holes in the copper for the wires I jb welded the stars in.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06743.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06744.jpg

The jb weld actually trasfers some of the heat to the copper and keeps the leds from bouncing out. Once I get some wire soldered to the stars I'm going to fill the copper cups with clear epoxy to seal up the wiring. Then I have to cut out the old, smaller, regulator and wiring. Then wire up the new regulator and run the wires to my spots. After that you mount the lights, hook up the wires and put to power.

[slomatt]

Mike, the rocklights are looking good! I potted mine using water-clear epoxy from Tap Plastics and I HIGHLY recommend that you not use the same stuff. It was difficult to work with and can take days to dry depending on the temperature, humidity, and amount of catalyst you use. Additionally it was one of the worst smelling chemicals I've ever used and is very dangerous to breathe. There are some non-toxic water clear products on the market that are much better.

I can't find the links at the moment, but if you search for something like "non toxic water clear casting resin" it should bring up some results.

- Matt

[4x4mike]

I'm using some semi clear home depot stuff. Package says 5 minutes. I've used it on my dome lights and in one set of my old rocklights. The color actually doesn't matter as no one is going to see these. I ended up painting my old ones all black except for the emitter.

Ken was talking about using casting resin from the hobby shop. HD was one stop shopping and it has worked in the past.

[slosurfer]

When I get to a project like this, I was planning on useing what I have in the garage. Surfboard Resin (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=12489&familyName=Ding+All+Ultra+Clear+Polyester+Resin) :smokin:

[Robinhood4x4]

For better heat transfer I used heat conducting paste underneath the star and just poured the clear epoxy over the whole thing. One thing I learned in the semiconductor world is that it is very difficult to get good heat conduction from one part to another. Epoxies aren't the best thing to use for that job.

Now that I've had my LEDs for a while now, I've noticed the epoxy is turning slightly yellow with age. They're not in the sun very much so that's not it.

[Cebby]

What could be used that won't yellow? Machine the "lens" out of thick plexi?

[slosurfer]

Most surfboard resin won't yellow unless it's directly in UV rays which your rock lights won't. I think they may even have some that stand up to UV rays.

[CJM]

Ya know making them is nice, but buying it predone and for outdoor use is nice too http://www.oznium.com/marine-led-light

Not exactly the same, but close and no work!

Course there is this too: http://www.oznium.com/waterproof-marine-leds


btw i highly recommend these switches. I have 2 of them and Im VERY happy. Solid built and decently bright when on. http://www.oznium.com/gsw-45-led

I been thinking of doing an underhood light with a pin switch on my truck only b/c toyotas dont have them :(

[oly884]

Ya know making them is nice, but buying it predone and for outdoor use is nice too http://www.oznium.com/marine-led-light

Not exactly the same, but close and no work!

Course there is this too: http://www.oznium.com/waterproof-marine-leds


btw i highly recommend these switches. I have 2 of them and Im VERY happy. Solid built and decently bright when on. http://www.oznium.com/gsw-45-led

I been thinking of doing an underhood light with a pin switch on my truck only b/c toyotas dont have them :(


Awesome, I do find it funny/interesting that shipping on EVERY item is 4.20

(in HS i had plenty of pot head friends, hence the reason I notice)

[CJM]

Heheh...

I really liked the service I got from that place, I have 2 of the switches i mentioned (which might i add fit the factory cut outs!!!)and a door pin switch that is so so but arrived broke. They replaced it for free period.

Shipping was also super quick, i think i had it in less than a week if not 3-4 days.

[4x4mike]

For better heat transfer I used heat conducting paste underneath the star and just poured the clear epoxy over the whole thing. One thing I learned in the semiconductor world is that it is very difficult to get good heat conduction from one part to another. Epoxies aren't the best thing to use for that job.

Now that I've had my LEDs for a while now, I've noticed the epoxy is turning slightly yellow with age. They're not in the sun very much so that's not it.


I've used the paste and have chosen to dislike it. It's messier than hell and I have found that JB weld will still transfer the heat to the copper. How much? I don't know. More than the artic silver I was using? Not sure.

I soldered the wires in so I could get some epoxy laid before bed. After that I wired them together to make sure they were working properly before I laid in the epoxy.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06747.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06748.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06749.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06750.jpg

They are pretty bright. All the pictures were taken with my Sony point and shoot set at auto with no flash.
Epoxy.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06761.jpg

I let them run for about 15 minutes and got to thinking how warm they were getting.
Cardboard on the work bench.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06752.jpg

Side of the copper cup. Not the back or at the emitter.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06753.jpg
Heat sinking and JB weld are working.

[4x4mike]

Ya know making them is nice, but buying it predone and for outdoor use is nice too http://www.oznium.com/marine-led-light

Not exactly the same, but close and no work!

Course there is this too: http://www.oznium.com/waterproof-marine-leds


btw i highly recommend these switches. I have 2 of them and Im VERY happy. Solid built and decently bright when on. http://www.oznium.com/gsw-45-led

I been thinking of doing an underhood light with a pin switch on my truck only b/c toyotas dont have them :(


The output of those led's is about half of what I'm using. Plus you have to regulate them. Other than that they are pretty slick and clean looking. Their regulators are spendy
http://www.oznium.com/led-controllers
You could make one but you're not really sure what kind of leds they are so you don't know what to regulate them at.

I already have the switches mounted and wired to power.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06762.jpg

[troyboy162]

how many watts are those cree's? i just got a flashlight with a cree led so im really intrigued with how much light you must be getting from these things

[slosurfer]

Those oznium ones say that the housing gets to be 120-130*F with regular use. :yikes: I didn't realize that LED's put out that much heat.


Mike, do you epoxy over the whole thing or just up to the lens?

[CJM]

Really, I didnt read that part! ^

[slosurfer]

Yeah, it was on the tech sheet.
http://www.oznium.com/marine-led-light/tech
Surprised the hell out of me that they got that hot.

[Robinhood4x4]

The wattage is W=VA, so 3.3Vx0.5A = 1.65 watts, but wattage is not a good indicator of how much light a LED is outputting.

Chris, you're used to normal 5mm leds, like the ones for indicator lights. These high power LEDs put out a lot of heat and it's an important consideration in the construction. You can easily burn them out if they get too hot, thus the reason for the copper cups.

[4x4mike]

Really, I didnt read that part! ^


Yeah, hot. If they don't dissipate the heat they will dim and their life is decrease.



how many watts are those cree's? i just got a flashlight with a cree led so im really intrigued with how much light you must be getting from these things


The newer Q5 fenix lights put out around 160 lumens but I'm not sure what the current is.


The wattage is W=VA, so 3.3Vx0.5A = 1.65 watts, but wattage is not a good indicator of how much light a LED is outputting.

Chris, you're used to normal 5mm leds, like the ones for indicator lights. These high power LEDs put out a lot of heat and it's an important consideration in the construction. You can easily burn them out if they get too hot, thus the reason for the copper cups.




Each led consumes about 3.3 v and the regulator, 2v. Minimum lumens out of the Q5, AT 350ma is 104 lumens. Mine are set to run at 500ma.

[Robinhood4x4]

If it follows the same curve as the XR-E data sheet, then at 500ma you're about 35% brighter.

That works out to about 140 lumens. It's probably a little less because the curve is for a junction temperature of 25C and I'm sure it's hotter than that.

[slomatt]

Recently I picked up some similar switches for $2 each, they're still in transit but I'll put up better pictures when they arrive.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009013111562676&item=11-3237&catname=electric

The newest Cree XR-E Q5 bin puts out 228LM at 1A and can be bought for $6.50. This is great for high powered flashlights, but probably overkill for rock lights and require a lot of heat sinking if you run them at 1A. The older Q2 bin XR-Es are $3.60 each if you buy 10 of them, these are what I've used for my lights.

- Matt

[4x4mike]

Cutter has R2 cree xr-e's. I didn't need to go there but it's good to know where to get good ones.

[4x4mike]

I had time to finish my project because it's was a beautiful day and wanted to be outside. Anyways. Today was mounting the fixtures and wiring them all up. The wiring is not hard but you have to know what you are doing. If not you'll finish and they won't work or you'll short it out and pop the leds.

Lots of wire and loom later (and waiting until dark).
The back 2 were already there. This project was the front 4.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06779.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06780.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06782.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06783.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/DSC06785.jpg

I might adjust them a bit to find the best spill but I'm pretty happy.

[slosurfer]

Nice! Those are some bright suckers. :thumbup:

[4x4mike]

Yeah, they're nice. Even the wife said so. Usually she's not too impressed even though they have come in handy. I did the dome lights in the 4runner and her Subaru. Her friends like her dome lights, she just thinks they're too bright and will hurt the bay when it's in the car seat looking up :confused:

[slosurfer]

Haha, she may be right about that. Nothing like getting home and the baby is finally asleep. You open the door and the damn bright dome light comes on and wakes the baby up. I speak from experience. :laugh: My 4runner dome lights are still turned off out of habit so they don't come on with the door.

With the second baby and the tacoma it was different because the dome light in the taco comes on slowly instead of a snap of instant bright light. Needless to say, I won't be doing any mods to the dome lights till the kids are slightly older. :D

[Erich_870]

Hahaha, Dang.

Note to self, don't mess with my dome light either :shake: One thing my 4runner has going for it baby wise is it puts my little guy to sleep in no time. My wife's car is too smooth and quite :clap:

Erich

[4x4mike]

I kind of can't undo what I did so I think I'll add a strip of electrical tape to 'dim' it a bit. She got black leather interior and a dark tint so it was always pretty dark in there. I like it bright, you can actually find stuff.