TB cover with water--fixed--update on H2O in resonator-

[Osiris]

From your experience, what has this been? I am going to take the front cover off and look at it, but I haven't worked with this motor before.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/LuZZifer/4Runner/IMG_1667.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/LuZZifer/4Runner/IMG_1666.jpg

I hope it is not a head gasket up front. Looks like oil and coolant, but maybe just coolant mixing with oil on the motor??

I don't know at this point, but thanks in advance for opinions of what to be looking for.

[slosurfer]

Well, it's probably just coolant and grease from the idler pulley bearings, if it's leaking back behind the idler pulley. It also looks like it could be leaking where that gasket maker is. That's not a big deal because you will have to pull that off to get the cover off to check the idler pulley.

[slosurfer]

Actually, after looking at it, I bet it is just coolant and that the gasket maker has a small failure in it. But better to be safe than sorry and pull that cover while you're at it.

[DHC6twinotter]

I agree with Chris. As far as I know, there is really only two places where coolant can leak there. The first being where the gasket maker is, and the second being where the idler pulley bolts down to the intake manifold. Like Chris said, I would go ahead and pull the timing cover off and make sure it isn't leaking behind there as well. It's only 7 or 8 10mm bolts or so.

While you're in there, you might as well inspect the timing belt too. :D

[Osiris]

I'm there with the timing cover unbolted, but I have the two studs on the coolant pipe. How do I get them off? I don't have a female star socket.....hmmmm.

I haven't tried anything because I don't want to damage them.

Yeah, I want to inspect the belt while I'm there. It was supposed to be done when the motor was put in around 20K ago.

Under first inspection with taking the top part of the coolant pipes apart, it appears that the rear left side of the area did not have any gasket maker there.

I am looking in my FTM right now. Haynes says nothing about detail, just remove the cover. blehhh

[slosurfer]

to remove the studs you need to use both nuts. (instert potty humor laugh here :laugh: )

YOu put both nuts on one stud and then put the wrench on the lower nut and it will start turning the stud once it snugs up to the top nut. Once you removed one just put the nuts on the other one and repeat. If I remember right, they aren't torqued down too hard, so they should come out fairly easy.

To reinstall the studs, it's the same process. 2 nuts but put the socket on the top nut to screw the stud in.

[Osiris]

Well, it took only a few minutes to figure that out about the studs. They were easy to pull out with a set of good grooved pliers and being careful. I did not find any leakage from behind the timing belt. The timing belt looked good and there wasn't any leaks down the front of the engine under the cover and none with the waterpump. So as was guessed, it seems that it was a poor job on the water outlet gasket sealer. I redid it and put everything back together and wiped off the front of the timing cover. Here are some pics of the final seal job.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/LuZZifer/4Runner/IMG_1668.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/LuZZifer/4Runner/IMG_1670.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/LuZZifer/4Runner/IMG_1669.jpg

A real curious thing is the larger tube of the two that come off the metal tubes above the front of the motor and go to a plastic airbox connected to the main airbox. I took that off and pointed it down to move it out of the way and a bunch of water came out. What???? So I took it off and about a cup or two of water poured out of it. I have no idea why that should happen. I think I gained like 10 or 15 HP from that fo sho! If I put a sticker on the top of the windshield, I heard that would give me another 40hp!

It does seem to be a bit smoother. Maybe all that water was interferring with the vacuum system of the engine, I don't know. I'm going to look at my mileage to see if that changes a hair. Right now, I only get 225 mi a tank.

NorCalBorn: Thanks for the info and response. I don't want to fix what's not broke. It's still winter and I don't want to break it all down since the timing belt was done 22K ago. Maybe over the summer I can put a 3.4l in there. It's the daily for me and I don't do any hard driving with it.

[slosurfer]

:thumbup: Glad to know that it was only that. There are seals on the timing belt cover just for that reason, to keep leaking coolant off the belt and out of the idler pulley. :thumbup:

[DHC6twinotter]

Well, it took only a few minutes to figure that out about the studs. They were easy to pull out with a set of good grooved pliers and being careful.

Yeah, I didn't think about using two nuts like Chris suggested, so I just pulled them out with a vice grips. One of the studs broke, and I think I lost the other. I'm using two bolts I found laying around now. I think one of them was a timing cover bolt that I used in a pinch. :hillbill:



A real curious thing is the larger tube of the two that come off the metal tubes above the front of the motor and go to a plastic air box connected to the main air box. I took that off and pointed it down to move it out of the way and a bunch of water came out. What???? So I took it off and about a cup or two of water poured out of it. I have no idea why that should happen.

That hose runs from the air box to the resonator, connects to the hard pipe that runs under the plenum, then connects back into a hose that then runs into the PAIR reed valve. What it does, I dunno, but that's where the hose goes. I've never heard of any kind of liquid in there, but then again, I haven't been working on vehicles too long and I'm still learning. :hillbill: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/engine/78pulsedse.pdf



I'm going to look at my mileage to see if that changes a hair. Right now, I only get 225 mi a tank.

225 doesn't sound too bad. I usually get 250 on a road trip, but whenever I drive up to VA, I can get 300. 300 is with topping up on gas and driving with the low fuel light on for a bit and averaging about 65mph. Usually just about 15 gallons of fuel. My speedo is off a bit, so it probably is even a bit more than 300 miles.

:D

[DHC6twinotter]

I hope I'm not straying too far off topic here, and my apologies if I am...

Chris, Shane, Osiris---question for you guys. On the picture of the water neck (reply 7), there isn't a bypass hose coming out the driver's side of it. Chris, is your '93 the same? Is there no bypass hose? Shane, your 4Runner is the same year as Osiris's 4Runner, so I'm assuming yours doesn't have this hose as well?

It's interesting, because on my '90 I have a coolant hose that comes off the water neck and connects to a hard pipe that runs under the intake plenum and connects to some heater hoses. Where do the heater hoses connect on your 3.0s? Anybody know what year this changed? I'm finding more and more differences between various 3.0 motors...kinda interesting. :hillbill:

[slosurfer]

Dan, my '93 looks exactly like his. :thumbup:

[Osiris]

Dan: The intake plenum water routing on my 3.0 is shown below.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/LuZZifer/4Runner/IMG_1671.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/LuZZifer/4Runner/IMG_1673.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/LuZZifer/4Runner/IMG_1675.jpg

Hope that helps with you trying to figure it out. I know if you ask for a waterpump, they ask if it is with the bypass valve or without the bypass valve. I don't know if that is the same as what you are asking or not.

Here is a picture of the "bucket of water" resonator.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/LuZZifer/4Runner/IMG_1676.jpg

[DHC6twinotter]

So..uh..where does that heater hose connect to on you guy's engines? Water bypass manifold on the back of the engine? I'm curious now. :D

Osiris, thanks for the pictures. My motor has those lines too. The coolant line I have in question on my motor actually runs along those other hard lines you mentioned. I'll take a picture tomorrow.

[DHC6twinotter]

Thanks Shane. I looked through the FSM on this site already. The FSM doesn't seem to cover heater hoses, at least from what I could find. :headscratch:

:D

[DHC6twinotter]

Ok, here's what it looks like on mine:

Ignore the filth and the tape on the vacuume hose. It's a "temporary" fix. :hillbill:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/DH6twinotter/4Runner/labeledfronthose.jpg

Pipe runs under plenum and comes out here:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/DH6twinotter/4Runner/labeledrearhose.jpg

[DHC6twinotter]

Thanks Shane! My motor also has that hose in the first picture, but the last picture answered my question. I missed that arrow pointing up the first time I looked at the FSM. :chair:

Reason I'm asking about this is because I'm trying to compile a list of differences between the various 3.0 motors. It seems Toyota has changed the style of the coolant bypass manifold somewhere along the line as well. Lots of little tidbits I'm finding.

Thanks guys. Osiris, sorry if I hijacked your thread too much. :hillbill:

[Osiris]

Well, I didn't want to start a new thread, so I checked my mileage before and after I found all that water in that resonator.

Before I was getting 225 miles on 17.5 gallons or 12.86 mpg at the max.

After I found that water and emptied it all out, I could tell a big difference in the motor. It didn't feel like it was straining and lacking power. I just thought that was the way the 3.0 was. I just went 233 miles on 15 gallons or 15.53 mpg. Now I think it is running proper.