What's this leak?

[freejake3]

Need your help boys............I'm getting ready to replace both driveaxle boots very soon in the
near future. I noticed during my last oil change that I had a gear oil leak coming from between the
passenger side flange and pumpkin. Here's my questions: Is this leak most likely an oil seal? If
so, will I be able to access the part when I remove the driveaxle?

Thanks in advance.

Oh, can someone point me to a good write-up on how to replace the driveaxles.

I've included some pics to make it easier to understand.

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m253/affinis/runner/exhibitB.jpg

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m253/affinis/runner/exhibitA.jpg

[slosurfer]

That's your axle oil seal. Mine is leaking on mine as well. Make sure your breather valve is functional as that could have been what caused it. Hold on, I'll get you the part number for it.

[slosurfer]

Oh and yes, with the axle out of the way, you should be able to pry it out with a couple prybars.

[slosurfer]

Here this thread has the part #
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=5960.0

I believe the part # is 90311-35018

Here is what I'm after: (sorry for the wierd pic)



http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e113/slosurfer27/4runner/diag_ADQshE.png


Edit - Good Times - added quotes to the pic]

[freejake3]

Hey Chris.....Thanks for the heads up.

You might want to try TRDparts4U when you do order for your Toys. I used to order mine from NTP as well until I recently had to get some parts for my Tacoma and compared both. I needed a plug/wire site, a set of plugs, and a feul filter. NTP wanted 124$ for the parts. TRDparts4U wanted 81$. THis is shipped to the door. They both give 25% discounts but TRD starts out at a much lower wholesale price. Just a thought. Hope this helps. Good to hear from you.

[slosurfer]

Andy, thanks for the heads up. I too have used trdparts4u in the past, but you don't find out the shipping charge till you look at your credit card bill later with them (they charge you shipping once it's shipped). All the times I've used them, I've gotten hit pretty hard on the shipping. I used them once a long time ago because it was cheaper than NTP, but by the time shipping was added (which they didn't quote me), it ended up being the same.

[freejake3]

That's funny........I had my shipping posted before my final "checkout". Oh well, maybe worth another try I guess. At least get them to quote ya'

Anyone have a write-up on the driveaxle replacement?

[DHC6twinotter]

NTP charged me shipping last time I ordered from them. $5 for just over $10 worth of parts. They also no longer offer the %25 discount. It's %20 now, unless things have changed again. All that being said though, they have really good service, and Carrie (one of the people I've delt with there--I think that's what her name was) was super helpful when I called. I'll probably continue buying some stuff from them for now. They've even had stuff that a dealership here said was impossible to get. :D

I've only tried TRDparts4U once, and they never got back with my parts request. :hillbill:

Anyways, just my $.02.

[slosurfer]

Anyone have a write-up on the driveaxle replacement?



I'll look through my "favorites" tonight, I'm sure I have a few bookmarked. You don't have a lift or anything on that one do you?

[freejake3]

I do but not sure what kind since I bought it used. I'm pretty sure it's a 2". The front torsion bars have been replaced with I think Sway-A-Way (they're white) but the rear is a mystery. SOmeone knew what they were doing thought because I'm getting no butt-sag in the rear so the coils must have been replaced as well. THey even put steel braided lines in the rear. Does this make a difference in regard to removing the driveaxles?

[slosurfer]

Andy, no, with a tbar lift it shouldn't make a difference. The bj spacer lift also makes it a little tougher.

Here's steps I snagged that robinhood wrote a long time ago on YT


I just did this a couple weeks ago and I think I've got it down to a science.

1. Remove the hub/ADD flange, the bolt in the end of the axle, and the C-clip
2. Remove upper bumpstop and disconnect the sway bar and shock.
3. Loosen the 6 nuts holding the CV axle to the diff side of the axle.
4. POUND OUT AT LEAST 2 OF THE STUDS. --The single most important step.
5. Jack up the truck so that the suspension extends all the way.
6. CV axle should slide right out.

I took off the tire, but next time, I don't think I'll even have to do that.

This link has some info as well.
http://www.yotatech.com/f2/cv-boot-joint-72037/

[freejake3]

At what point do I want to change out the entire axle? I would hate to get the thing off and find out the tri-pod joints are shot. I switched out the ADD for Manual years ago so nothing's been turning for some time.

[slosurfer]

Honestly, I would just swap out the entire axle. YOu can get a reman one at autozone or kragen, that have a lifetime warranty. I think they are under $100 after you turn in your core. To do a boot, you have to pull the axle anyways and then you have the whole mess of cleaning the joint, regreasing it etc... Yes, you will save a little $, by just replacing the boot, but I'm not sure how much spare time you have on your hands to mess with doing the boot. Also, you can be on the lookout for someone who does and SAS and then you can pick up an axle to keep as a spare.

[freejake3]

That's what I'm starting to think I'll do. Don't really have the time to fart around with the boots and all that entails. I'd rather just slam a new one in there with the new oil seals and be done with it.