View Full Version : Pleas help me diagnose my vibration
I know many of you are sick of hearing this, but im still trying. What I was wondering what everyones thoughts are here, cause im literally sick of my T100 but I cannot afford anything else really right now.
1996 T100 3.4L V6, auto, 4wd, x-cab.
Heres what happens:
If you take off you can feel a profound movement on the drivers side rear of the truck. Kinda like wheel hop I guess is best to describe. Once i get to about 20mph you can feel the vibration when on the gas.
At speed I can feel a vibe right under my feet, actually right where the cab mounts are but it also vibes the entire truck as I go too. On the gas only do I feel it, while coasting along its barely there if at all. Step on gas again and it comes back.
Here is what I have diagnosed/done:
-Replaced passenger side rear axle shaft-the vibration lessened to a degree.
-Replaced trans mount (rubber was worn and coming off but no effect)
-Checked motor mounts. Drivers side seems to be looser of the two. Both seem to have play in them more than I expect. I dont know how much is bad tho, but I can wiggle the drivers side a good 1/2 inch or more. I bought new ones but havent gotten around to installing them.
-Checked the cab mount bushings, all are worn out BAD and i bought new but dont have time to replace right now. Right under the drivers door I can push the mount back and forth a good 1/2 inch or better.
-Noticed this bushing that connects part of the front differential to the whole front suspension is FLAKING apart. Gonna replace that I guess if I can get it from toyota.
-Replaced all shocks with HD
-Checked vehicle with rear drive shaft disconnected and off, the vibe still existed in what equates to fwd, in all gears..maybe not as bad however. The rear still spins if the tires go. But in the air it seemed tohappen too with only the fronts going.
-Had both driveshafts checked and balanced, had the propeller shaft replaced. Didnt seem to help but eliminated them from being an issue.
-Front CVs seem fine, dont seem to be bent, nothings leaking out of them.
-Replaced all brakes, calipers, rotors, shoes, drums, and rear wheel cylinders.
-New tires and wheels balanced perfectly and re checked again to be sure.
-Front end seems to be loose despite new idler arm, pitman arm, and all balljoints, tie rods and centerlink are fine and have no play. New steering stabilizer too. I have a small side to side play and can hear a decent clack when i push the wheels forward and back.
-Motor seems tight as does trans, engine runs very well and trans shifts super smooth and good. Also the motor was totally redone about 60k ago by previous owner with receipts from toyota.
-You can watch the 4wd shifter wiggle back and forth as you take off. It wiggles quite a bit but I dont have anything to compare it too.
-Added these small helper springs that sit on top of the leaf pack and take up slack-seems to have lessened the vibration and wheel hop a bit. This seems to have had the best effect. I would assume after 200k my springs are worn out but enough to cause axle wrap this bad I doubt it. It was 400-600 bucks for them to rearch and rework my springs after i called 5 different places and i didnt do it cause of the cost.
-I cannot tell if the flexplate is bad in the trans but the engine and trans connection has no play it seems.
So thats where I am at, i am gonna install the mounts when i get a chance and take it from there. I am thinking the drivers side shaft (although it had the same amount of play the pass replaced side does)is no good and bent. It makes sense b/c of the wheel hop and vibe at speed in any gear and in fwd too b/c although its disconnected the shaft still turns as you move no?
I just dunno anymore, I wanted to buy a newer tundra but at 10K plus they are being sold for I cant afford it. I really love this truck but its getting to me.
Seanz0rz
04-19-2009, 09:06 PM
do your engine mounts!
i hate to even suggest this, but is it possible the axle tube has separated from the spring perch? im not very familiar with the way your rear suspension is setup, but it sounds like a broken perch, while still being held together with the ubolts, could cause that kind of vibration and "wheel hop". maybe something to look into.
Good Times
04-19-2009, 11:55 PM
Seems like all of the repairs you have performed to date has resolved some of your vibration but you haven't found the source. I'm not sure how you'd go about in figuring out the source but I'd say eliminating variables you have on your truck may help you out instead of just trying to replace everything on the truck that appears to be worn. Not sure if you have time but try this cuz I'm actually lost as to what could be wrong.
1. truck on stands (all of em)
2. remove both driveshafts
3. start engine and "pretend" you're driving and get your vehicle up to normal driving speed to see if you experience vibration.
If you experience vibration here then you know it has to do with something with your engine/tranny mounts or the engine and/or the drivetrain (tranny/transfer case)
If no vibration then we can immediately eliminate the mounts/engine/tranny/transfer case.
4. Add one driveshaft (rear)
5. Try again - get your truck up to normal driving speeds and see if vibes appear
If you get vibes then you know it's either the shaft or axle/tire. (rear) If no vibes then move on.
6. Add other driveshaft (front only - remove rear)
7. Try again - same thing here
If you get vibes then you know it's either the shaft or axle/tire (front)
If none... move on
8. Do it with both and see what happens
If you get vibes at this point then I'm stumped cuz it shouldn't since it had no problems when running separately. The only thing I can think of is something in the transfer case at that point?
If no vibes... move on
Now time for a test drive...
9. remove front driveshaft - drive
10. swap driveshaft - drive
It's gonna be a pita but at this point I dunno. I'm not a certified mechanic or anything just a garage junkie but I figure this should help ya out or something.
Good luck
All good ideas lance, but I cannot get the front shaft off b/c I need to remove the cross member for the trans and I cant get it off no matter how hard I try-the bolts are STUCK! Heat, penetrant oil, battery impact and a breake rbar witrh a cheater bar havent budged them. I may have to borrow a air impact gun somewhere along he line.
I checked the axle tubes and perches, good to go there.
Small update:
Talked to my mech today about the leaking seal in the axle shaft side he replaced. Seems its fine now, dont understand why its leaking. The shaft and whatnot seems to be true and no issues.
Also asked him to take a look and replace my motor mounts. I already bought them but I lack the time to do them. I only have off from work tues/thurs and its sweltering outside. Plus I feel bad for my mech, the guy has always done me good and now his biz is way to slow for him to even support himself while my job has really turned around. Speaking of which, alone in tips the other day I made over 100 bucks :) Thank god work has picked back up.
Crinale
04-28-2009, 08:59 PM
you a server? i make about that on a good night shift serving here ;)
you a server? i make about that on a good night shift serving here ;)
I wish, I work for a roadside assistance company. Basically drive around and change peoples batteries, flat tires, unlock thier cars, etc. We mostly work for AAA as a contractor, hard work but i enjoy it.
If I did want to be a server, you wont make that kinda money around here unless your in a higher end restaurant.
elripster
04-29-2009, 12:23 PM
Did you ever remove the front half shafts and take it for a test drive? I think I recall you had some issues trying to get them out.
Frank
I couldnt get the front drive shaft out itself, cannot remove that without dropping the trans a bit.
The front doesnt seem to have the vibration after ALOT of testing, it seems to be dependent on RPM range. Very low RPMs like crawling along does nothing, but give it gas to go and you can feel the rear drivers side rear axle wrap. When I take off I can physically feel this end lift up.
Also the vibration is right under the seat up front which coincidentally is where not only is some kinda bushing for the front suspension absolutely shot but also the cab mounts have alot of play. Also the motor mount on that side seems to be way looser and have alot more play than the other side.
I cannot discern if the front cv axles are warped, but front what I can tell when I had the truck going on jackstands and the front going they didnt look like they were spinning out of round-infact looked fine. Didnt try to remove them tho, but they dont spin at all on my truck when the hubs arent locked in.
I removed the rear driveshaft, the vibe still existed but not as bad. So I need to narrow it down to a few different things. Most of my issue is the fact I cant sit and play around, just dont have time.
elripster
04-30-2009, 04:38 AM
If you removed the rear shaft, axle wrap is out.
So what you are saying is that you can get the vibration with the truck running but not moving? If it's the engine that would be the case.
Or, is it more like and engine load issue?
Frank
DHC6twinotter
04-30-2009, 06:16 AM
I don't have any good suggestions, but would a bad torque converter cause vibration issues?
:headscratch:
fustercluck
04-30-2009, 06:36 AM
Why did you only replace the passenger side rear axle shaft? As you described the vibration and used 'hop' in association, it reminded me of my 84 truck. It had a pronounced vibration that I felt under the seat at a certain RPM range regardless of the RPMs of the motor/tranny.
Turns out that both rear axle shafts were slightly bent. You replaced one and got some improvement. While we are throwing parts at it, I would give the other shaft a shot.
I am sorry you are so frustrated. It's no consolation, but if you give up, don't sell the truck. You should part it out on ebay and the like (forum classifieds), you'll make twice to three times the money....especially since T-100 parts are as common as horse feathers.
YotaFun
04-30-2009, 01:38 PM
Why did you only replace the passenger side rear axle shaft? As you described the vibration and used 'hop' in association, it reminded me of my 84 truck. It had a pronounced vibration that I felt under the seat at a certain RPM range regardless of the RPMs of the motor/tranny.
Turns out that both rear axle shafts were slightly bent. You replaced one and got some improvement. While we are throwing parts at it, I would give the other shaft a shot.
I am sorry you are so frustrated. It's no consolation, but if you give up, don't sell the truck. You should part it out on ebay and the like (forum classifieds), you'll make twice to three times the money....especially since T-100 parts are as common as horse feathers.
HEY MARC!!!
What did I say to you?
I am all with fuster on the one, I would replace the other shaft!
Yes Avy you are right and so is Fuster imho.
It works like this:
1. Motor mounts are def bad, and only cost 50 bucks to do.
2. Cab mounts are bad and only 100 to buy them all and my freetime or pay to have them done..whats that maybe another 100 in labor
3. The mount under the diff is probably dealer only but what could it be, 100? Easy to install
4. An axle shaft, associated parts, etc is 500 bones.
I dont have 500 bones atm to play with nor the time to do it.
Im curious Fuster about your vibration issue. Is it very similar to mine?
@Frank: Although I still felt it-remember even tho the rear isnt connected-the shaft in the axle still turns and the leaf spring is still connected to the truck and thus you feel it. However a motor load issue could be it. The truck has no vibration unless the wheels are spinning!
I dunno. Its so many different thing its insane. One friend said it was in the trans, another said the drivetrain/shafts, another says maybe its the cab mounts, then yet another says motor mounts, etc etc. All of these thinks can be it, but I just lack the time. I finally gave up and am paying someone to do it for me. The final straw is the other axle shaft, althought it doesnt seem to be bent I feel the axle wrap on that side and that sides the vibration is on.
I just dunno, but I am making more money at work since we got busier and willing to try these few things.
reggie 00
05-01-2009, 07:56 AM
If you want to know for sure and you can squeeze the time,
Swap axles around.
Put the known good in the suspected bad spot and see if your wrap and vibration follow the suspected bad axle.
Its the rear so both side are the same right?
it would really suck to drop 500 bucks and find out it was just a small part of the problem again.
jmo
2ndGen
05-01-2009, 08:41 AM
have you checked your pinion angle? it could be the problem for lifted tacoma if the rear drvie shaft has u-joints one on each end. probably a good idea to get a pair of (leaf)spring shimms to correct the pinion angle.
i did a little research on that last month, it's not an issue for my 4runner because it has double-cardan joint(CV) and coil springs. but on a taco, the pinion angle is better to be less than 2 degress.
fustercluck
05-01-2009, 06:37 PM
Yes Avy you are right and so is Fuster imho.
Im curious Fuster about your vibration issue. Is it very similar to mine?
Can't tell until I feel it, but as I read your description again, a bell sounded and reminded me of my 84.
If you don't have the cash to throw at it, you can still eliminate it by removing and taking it to a machine shop. have them throw it on their lathe and put a trueness gauge to it (that's not what it's called, but I forget the name...). That way at least you can know. Also, and I think we are zeroing in on the trouble, you should have your entire rear axle checked for trueness. I know it's not likely, but you could have tweeked it somehow.
If it turns out that your axles are true, the housings are true, the alignment is correct, you are not 'dog tracking', and your thrust angle is right and you still have hop, you may be SOL....
Easier said than done Reggie.
I got lucky, a person I went out to today to jumpstart is giving me thier 99 ford taurus for free. All it needs is a headlight and balljoints. I dont care its beat up, I really dont care so long as it runs and drives. This gives me a chance to diagnose my issues further. But in reality it cant be much else, not much else is left to cause the rear to hop like that. The the rear axle itself CANNOT be bent, toyota axles are SUPER thick and strong compared to domestics with axle tubes. Worst case I replace the shaft and nada, gears? Doubt that since I changed the fluid more than once to be sure and no chunks of cshavings.
have you checked your pinion angle? it could be the problem for lifted tacoma if the rear drvie shaft has u-joints one on each end. probably a good idea to get a pair of (leaf)spring shimms to correct the pinion angle.
i did a little research on that last month, it's not an issue for my 4runner because it has double-cardan joint(CV) and coil springs. but on a taco, the pinion angle is better to be less than 2 degress.
Pinion angle hasnt ever changed, there is no lift whatsoever. It also has a double cardan shaft (2pc) so thats not it.
fustercluck
05-02-2009, 07:24 AM
What does your rear view mirror do when you feel the vibration starting? If it vibrates, does it continue at all speeds or does it 'smooth' out?
What does your rear view mirror do when you feel the vibration starting? If it vibrates, does it continue at all speeds or does it 'smooth' out?
I never really looked Fuster, I dont think it vibrates tho.
Here is exactly what happens (to reiterate):
From a dead stop you hit the gas pedal. The drivers side rear of the truck feels like wheel hop. Could give it a little gas or alot of gas it hops a bit. As you pick up speed this same side vibrates and I can see in the mirror the bed is kinda vibrating.
When you let off the gas at speed the vibration lessens or possibly goes away (could just be lessened enough that I dont feel it tbh). Back on the gas you can feel that side hop as you go.
While driving you can feel the floorboards right under and next to the door vibrate-the cab mount there has a good half inch of play and I can move it all about. That same side the motor mount seems to be looser than the other side. Incidentally this is also the side there is a bushing of some kind for the front suspension thats totally flaking apart too.
There is no vibe felt in the wheel, the pedals, the seat really. ITs the floorboards and the whole truck itself.
So I dunno really, the main problem is I cannot do the work myself I just have no time and before I had no money as work was super slow but I get paid by a per job basis, not hourly. So it was tough.
Right now I am having the motor mounts put in, see if improves. Then I will see about cab mounts, that bushing and see what happens, then finally as a last resort the drivers side axle shaft. Im really leaning towards the shaft, but those other bushings and junk could have some effect too.
Like I said in the very first post: I have eliminated ALOT of other things by replacing or checking them thoroughly. So its down to a very few select options.
fustercluck
05-02-2009, 09:39 PM
The mirror reference is only a clue. In my 84, the rear view mirror would start to vibrate vertically at between 25 and 30 MPH and increased in severity as my truck rolled faster. I was able to isolate the possibilities based on the direction the mirror vibrated and the characteristics of the vibrating mirror. As I watched it, I noted that it vibrated consistently with the speed of the wheels and not of the reciprocating mass of the engine. It also did not vary with the direction I turned. In the end, I determined that the vibration had to be isolated to the rear axle. I took them out and had them spun on a lathe. That's where we found the wobble. It was so slight that a visual slow roll inspection could not discern it. But a fast spin and a trueness gauge spotted it immediately.
Just a thought, although I think by sheer elimination, you are already there.
Fuster, mirror doesnt vibrate alot. Not anymore than it usual it seems, its not vibrating so bad I can literally see it shake like those with a sound system.
Okay heres whats happened recently:
The mech who replaced the one axle shaft for some reason the damned axle seal keeps leaking, been back 2x now.
So next week the truck is getting cab mounts as they are SEVERELY bad (I can yank them all over the place). Then its a toss up what to do next:
-motor mounts cause they are cracked and dry rotted, and separated somewhat
-Drivers axle shaft, which costs a buttload.
A friend at a shop said he would do it all, so who knows the exact costs but I will have it done. If all else fails and I cannot fix it a guy who exports toyotas to mexico said he would buy it for 4500 or so and then its outta my hands and its a toss up between a 04+ tundra (the one with more hp/tq), an older tundra, older F250 (pre super duty), or another T100.
fustercluck
06-06-2009, 07:16 PM
I'd be willing to bet Avy's runner that it's the other rear axle...
fustercluck
06-06-2009, 07:20 PM
Hmmm. This just popped into my spinning brain. Tell me how your tires wear (especially the fronts).
Hmmm. This just popped into my spinning brain. Tell me how your tires wear (especially the fronts).
No issues with front or rear tire wear, infact they wore very well and evenly.
fustercluck
06-06-2009, 09:40 PM
Okay, well sometimes the ball joints can get dry and loose. sometimes the vibration caused by that can feel like it originated elsewhere.
Nah BJ are brand new pretty much.
fustercluck
06-07-2009, 01:32 PM
I think by sheer elimination we're down to the driver side rear axle shaft...
YotaFun
06-07-2009, 01:52 PM
I think by sheer elimination we're down to the driver side rear axle shaft...
Can I say it again PLEASE!?!?!?!?
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I TOLD YOU SO!!!!
lol
fustercluck
06-07-2009, 05:58 PM
You know, Avy, I bet you runner that it is the rear axle, so........let's hope we're right. Hehe.
YotaFun
06-07-2009, 06:36 PM
You know, Avy, I bet you runner that it is the rear axle, so........let's hope we're right. Hehe.
WHOA! HOLD THE PHONE HERE!
lol!
How do my things get bet here lol!
Nah fuster, I told him to replace both at the same time, i mean I knew it was gonna be $$$ but with the amount of aggravation and the amount of misc $$ that he has put it, it would have probably been worth it anyway in the long run
slosurfer
06-07-2009, 07:03 PM
Okay heres whats happened recently:
The mech who replaced the one axle shaft for some reason the damned axle seal keeps leaking, been back 2x now.
There may be something to this. Seems to me that something must be wrong there if it keeps making the axle seal leak. How is your diff breather? If your diff breather is working fine, then something is wrong and making that axle seal leak. I wonder if the housing is bent, so the axle wears on the seal wrong? Anyways, just what popped in my mind when I read that....
fustercluck
06-07-2009, 08:36 PM
Good call, Chris. I missed that the first time around...
Oh its coming down to it, however I also bet Avy his truck was in an accident and I was right.
I also just found him an insane deal on a set of limited wheels, told him how to fix the exhaust on the GTI (yes I did and you did it kinda), and I also taught him how to cook hotdogs with just some foil, charcoal and lighter fluid so there!
Yes Im replacing the motor mounts and cab mounts, then getting it back to see wtf is going on then replacing the other axle shaft since it will take a week to get the parts.
UPDATE!!!
Motor mounts and cab mounts in, NO MORE BIG VIBRATION! It has a very slight vibe, but its the tires from sitting (i think they got flat spots since they been on since last year and been sitting) and this one mount thats bad on the front diff/axle (btw anyone know the name or part no so I can get one). Otherwise its perfect.
I can feel the drivetrain load and unload, no vibe, the t-case shifter doesnt shake like nuts and my feet, seat, and wheel dont vibe anymore either!!!
Im sorry to annoy everyone so much, but it almost drove me near the brink of insanity. Thanks to everyone who helped and offered advice!!! I much appreciated it over the last year!
DHC6twinotter
06-12-2009, 05:23 PM
Awesome! Glad it all worked out! :thumbup:
Now, need a new pass fender, redo the intake, add some HIDs in the lights and fog lights, buy another tire and mount it on the spare rim, etc, etc. However the hard parts done.
The cab also sits a half inch higher than it did before too lol.
fustercluck
06-12-2009, 06:59 PM
Terrific news!!!!! Now to empty the remainder of your fundage on mods and junk....
Terrific news!!!!! Now to empty the remainder of your fundage on mods and junk....
Like I told my boss, no lifts or suspension work besides redoing the back springs. I aint going thru this all over again cause somethings lifted.
I also have 2 atvs to repair, a gun to finally buy and other junk.
Just realized, Fuster owes me Avys Runner... Pay up Fusterman.. Ill take your truck if Avy wont let me have his.
There may be something to this. Seems to me that something must be wrong there if it keeps making the axle seal leak. How is your diff breather? If your diff breather is working fine, then something is wrong and making that axle seal leak. I wonder if the housing is bent, so the axle wears on the seal wrong? Anyways, just what popped in my mind when I read that....
I dunno about the housing being bent, if it was I would feel a vibration now that the stinking thing doesnt vibrate much if at all (tbh I dunno what its like to not have it vibrate since its been 2 years lol). We shall see if it leaks again, I really dont want to replace the rear axle now that I got the rest working so good. iirc i drove maybe 5k miles with the bad shaft, another guy on 4x4 wire did the same..
ATM im tryign to track down wtf you call this bushing http://i40.tinypic.com/fblu1g.jpg
slosurfer
06-14-2009, 04:40 PM
Is that a pic of the underside of yours? Didn't think you had a bracket lift.
TRy this:
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1996_TOYOTA_T100_VCK11L-CRMSKA_5152.html
Look at parts:
51276A BRACKET, DIFFERENTIAL SUPPORT
Not applicable
51277B BRACKET ASSY, DIFFERENTIAL SUPPORT, LH
It has some individual part numbers as well but they aren't labeled well, so it's hard to tell what is the actual bushing. But it's a start.... :thumbup:
No, its not my truck. its actually ErikB's truck from 4x4wire/pirate (he built that 3 link iirc 3rd gen runner)
Thanks for the help slo.
slosurfer
06-14-2009, 09:09 PM
Ah! I didn't think you had a bracket lift. :laugh: Hopefully that helps. Took me a bit to find it because it was under the "body" section instead of with the "front diff". :shake:
Small update:
Axle seal is leaking again despite me taking it back to the guy who did the axleshaft 3x now. Im going to my buddy, hes gonna replace both seals and the bearing to be sure and ill replace the shoes later on (shame cause they only have about 500 miles on them but theone sides full of gear oil.
I need to put on my new swaybar endlinks, put the interior panels back in i removed for the body mounts, change the front and t-case oils, etc, etc. But the important part is it doesnt vibrate anymore.
fustercluck
06-16-2009, 06:06 PM
What doea a walrus and tupperware have in common?
They both like a tight seal...
Quick Q tho:
If the seal is leaking replacing both seals (inner and outter) would be a good idea along with the pressed on bearing right? I say this b/c I dont know exactly what mech A did supposedly trying to fix the seal.
The housing cannot be rounded, no way that would just break my heart into smithereens.
fustercluck
06-17-2009, 05:58 AM
As a rule, if I'm performing a service or repair that is a PITA to access, I will repair or replace other likely to fail parts associated with the initial work. For instance, when I return from San Fran in two weeks, I need to change the timing belt in my Tundra. While I'm in there, I'll change the water pump and the idler pulley and tensioner...
Well sent her in, I just dont have the time to fuss with it myself so getting the seals/bearing done and the rear shoes.
UPDATE:
I think its official, god wants me to drive my truck off a cliff, set it on fire, etc and never worry about it again.
The damn axle kept leaking and leaking and leaking, I replaced the seal on the axle itself 2x and no help. The seal on the shaft was the culprit, had to have the whole thing pressed with new parts on it. Now, I think the guy messed it up. The vibration seems like its back and when I try to powerbrake it the truck bucks and hops like wild-it wasnt doing that before. If I brake really hard the rear wants to lock up again on that side-just like it did when the axle was bent. It wont unlock till you give it gas-then you can feel the "pop" as it lets go.
I replaced some mounts for the front diff that holds it to the truck itself, that has helped some overall..
But alas, now imho I think either:
A: The machine shop has bent my nice new(er) axle shaft
B: More likely they fudged putting it back together.
The only other thing I can think of that would be causing issues are the leaf spring bushings. Or should I say what bushings, they are flaking apart...
Argh..
What do ya'll think, im soo damn close.
Seanz0rz
09-01-2009, 07:43 PM
start with cheap stuff (bushings) since they need to be replaced soon anyway.
Yea..
It just never seems to end..
Seanz0rz
09-01-2009, 07:54 PM
hey i know. front wheel bearings and axles: nearly 600 dollars
Yea but everything was fine back there till i had to have the damned axle pressed again to fix the leak. So no leak but its bent or frigged now.
I shoulda stuck with the leak.
04 Rocko Taco
09-02-2009, 02:38 PM
In all relaity man, how much can a new(er) T100 rear axle really cost? just unbolt the brakelines, e-brake, driveshaft, and u-bolts, and ditch that thing. slap in a nice known good new(er) one. I've got 3 1st gen mini truck rear axles... but I dont those will help you. LOL
Its hard to find one, iirc I can use a tundra axle possibly.
Looking over it all, it seems the bushings on rear shackles are bad. I dunno, taking it tomorrow to a person a friend recommended to see wtf is up.
All was well till I had the axle shaft redone..I dont get it.
Update:
Took to my buddys friends shop, yea replace leaf spring bushings. Probably gonna make an apt for next week sometime.
Update, TIS FIXED AS BEST AS IT GETS!
Had rear springs redone, added a leaf and replace bushings, rides like a caddy now. Wasnt cheap.. Rear axleshafts fine
Replaced mounts that hold the front axle up. One on the drivers side I had to flip the washer as it wasnt getting tight enough. Passenger side I did the same but changed it back today. Washers have an indent in the middle, making them have a tit almost I guess you would call it.
Also the one body mount right under the drivers floorpan was kinda loose, imho the frame mount is probably kicked up a bit. Tightened but the metal sleeve was holding it back so I had to grind about 1/8 off. All was well, till i frigged up the bolt and orange depot to the rescue thank god.
Was experiencing the vibe still but not as bad. I had made all those mounts VERY tight, loosened them up a bit and wow..its better. I would rate it about 90% or better, and this is as good as it gets.
Now I gotta bend back down the bumpstops that are very much near destroyed on the drivers side. Thinking about just cutting them off and welding on a new set if I can find a welder or someone to weld.
Oh and now i can keel over and die happy...
Crinale
09-25-2009, 12:33 AM
:thumbup: :clap: :drink: :good: :banana:
congrats!
Well I wish it was good, spoke a bit to soon it seems..
After I played with those mounts it did get a bit better, but whatever is wrong came back pretty good. Then again I only drove it maybe max 40mph and took it easy on some backroads when checking it. @40-50+ it has a wicked frontend vibe and replacing the mounts that hold the axle to the frame still didnt rid me of the clunking im getting when getting on the gas. Still something going on.. argh. I mean its better but still. I think this whole situation is driving me insane tbh.
Did discover if I put the tires up and grab at 9 and 3 there is play. Everything seems fine and it seems like I can hear the clacking its making from the middle of the truck. something else..oh joy.
Also took a prybar and put it between the rotor and the control arms and pried and seems to me the BJ are loose as I had a bit of play there too. I dont get that, they are brand new with less than a thousand miles on them.
So yea, I give the F up. No matter what I do it still is very harsh and vibrates.
I have concluded most likely that either the frame or something structural or maybe the spindle is bent or something. Whatever it is I dont care anymore. Perhaps whomever I wind up selling it to wont care or it wont bother them, at this point I dont even care.
So begins me saving to buy a used tundra.
Crinale
10-14-2009, 11:05 PM
your truck would probably make a good farm truck... although i dont know how many farms there are out in NJ... haha
probably, or to someone who is using it offroad only.
Really sucks cause i rebuilt nearly 80% of things on it before I gave up.
Crinale
10-16-2009, 01:03 AM
sucks you had to spend that much money to figure out it isnt worth it anymore...
Such as the way it goes.
Imho it is probably the axleshaft causing it, I had it repressed cause it kept leaking (and I bet it still does!) and ever since I had it redone (again might I add) its felt different.
Im to the point I just want the truck gone for a decent price.
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