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4X4snowRunner
05-05-2009, 09:42 AM
Hi there,
I want to know how much time to installed the control arm bushing for my '98 4Runner? I have sets of four bolts, four cam nuts, four sleves and four control arm bushings. I want to change it all because two were rusted cannot adjusted. I'm taking 4Runner to the garage I know.

Thank you,
Eric
Seanz0rz
05-05-2009, 11:29 AM
i believe toyota calls out 6 hours for each side. i know it took me 2 solid days of work to do it all, but there was a steep learning curve.

the shop manual calls for folding over the metal sleeve's flange to get it to press through. i ended up just slicing it off with a pneumatic cutoff wheel. lots of PB blaster on the outer sleeve of the bushing helps a bit too.

this was by far the hardest maintenance item ive ever done on a vehicle. while everything is apart, you mine as well go replace balljoints, upper control arm bushings, and tie rod ends.

total cost for parts for me was around 600, from northridge (read discounted). i spent 2.5 days working on it, a total of well over 24 hours of work, im sure a shop would have charged me a few grand in addition to the parts to do it.
Crinale
05-05-2009, 01:29 PM
in other words... unless you really need to do it, not just want to... its probably not worth it money wise to take it to a shop.
Seanz0rz
05-05-2009, 01:33 PM
exactly! my bushings were pretty worn and cracked, but they still didnt "need" it. my balljoints did though, and thats something id worry more about that rusted bushings. just spray them with pb blaster to loosen them up to adjust. even a complete disassembly wouldn't be a bad idea, but no need to press them out and install new bushings. replacing the hardware is fine.
Crinale
05-05-2009, 02:35 PM
and much much easier
4X4snowRunner
05-21-2009, 06:03 PM
It's worth for me to change the bushings and hardware's. I have this 4R 11years now, since I lift it I can't get the right alignment. Now all lower control arm bushings and hardware's are change, my 4Runner camber, caster and toe is aligned to original factory setup. Garage charge me to install my parts $365.00 cad and $85.00 cad for alignment. I'm happy with my 33" tires drive well on high speed no vibration.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e122/swaybarlink/Picture.jpg
troyboy162
05-22-2009, 04:15 AM
might have my front end apart soon. is there supposed to be any grease in there?
20005spd
05-23-2009, 06:39 AM
those bushings and adjusters suck major balls. one side was frozen when i tried doing an alignment on my truck so i bought the bushings and it was the biggest waste of my time. i told myself i would buy a new control arm with bushings if i ever had to do it again. i wont worry bout those bushings when then IFS is smoldering in a pile under the truck :D
Seanz0rz
05-23-2009, 09:05 AM
no grease on the bushings except between the outer casing of the bushing and the control arm when you press them in, makes it go in sooo smoothly and will probably keep it from corroding together into one piece. some anti seize compound on the adjuster bolt shafts couldnt hurt i guess, especially if you live on the east coast or anywhere where they still insist on using salt on the roads.

you got a killer deal on the replacing of those bushings. i found a pretty good method that worked for me, and once i figured that out it went pretty smoothly. i still wouldnt want to do it again though.
YotaFun
05-23-2009, 09:50 AM
I am lucky I can get the Toyota guys at school to do this.
But I was there when they had to deal with a frozen one on my friends Tacoma and it wasn't fun at all...

I don't know how much more us rust belt guys can do to save with the head ache...
Seanz0rz
05-23-2009, 10:03 AM
I don't know how much more us rust belt guys can do to save with the head ache...

move...
YotaFun
05-23-2009, 10:12 AM
I don't know how much more us rust belt guys can do to save with the head ache...

move...


Due time!
iceman601
05-23-2009, 02:49 PM
no grease on the bushings except between the outer casing of the bushing and the control arm when you press them in, makes it go in sooo smoothly and will probably keep it from corroding together into one piece. some anti seize compound on the adjuster bolt shafts couldnt hurt i guess, especially if you live on the east coast or anywhere where they still insist on using salt on the roads.

you got a killer deal on the replacing of those bushings. i found a pretty good method that worked for me, and once i figured that out it went pretty smoothly. i still wouldnt want to do it again though.


I was wondering if you can share that method as I'm going to have to tackle this soon as I'm getting some clunk/popping noise from my driver side. Can it be done without a press?
Seanz0rz
05-23-2009, 03:07 PM
i had a nice post typed out and everything and lost it when the internet died.

i used every large socket i had to find one that was the right diameter to press out the old bushings. the FSM calls for "using a chisel and hammer, fold over the lip then press it out" thanks alot toyota...

i used a pneumatic cutoff tool to cut the lip off , leaving a nice surface to press the bushing out with a socket.
20005spd
05-25-2009, 06:48 AM
the FSM calls for "using a chisel and hammer, fold over the lip then press it out" thanks alot toyota...

at least they didnt say to use a "suitable tool"...nissan used to love to put that in the fsm..its like WTF is a suitable tool...oh i havta make it while not getting paid cuz flat rate sucks