Tess Ultimate Solid Axle Swap Planning Thread Take 2

[YotaFun]

Let me clarify a few things before we all begin :argue: and :chair: and calling each other :gay:

I am making plans to solid axle swap my truck.
It is not going to be in the near future.
But some time in the distant future.

I will still be wheeling the truck the way it is now, and still build the expedition side of it, however ultimately I will be doing a solid axle swap. :angel:

This thread so to talk solid axle swap tech, and what options someone could possible go with considering the requirements I am setting. :clap:

THIS THREAD IS NOT TO CONVINCE ME NOT TO OR WAY THE OPTION OF NOT DOING IT.
I already tried once and got shot down cause I guess I am just :screwy: or a :asshat: in general.

Here are the requirements:
All Toyota drive line i.e axle and trans case
37" tires
Any suspension set up that is not leaf sprung

Thoughts in my head is Toyota mini truck axle with e-locker and longs on a 4-link suspension with either a T-100 case, or a Reduction box and a low geared older gear driven case.

But there are many different options or ideas out there, and I am looking for input and suggestions besides the normal DON'T DO IT!!! :shake:

So please can we try to talk a little solid axle swap TECH? :wrenchin:
i would post on pirate but I kind of want to keep my self from getting branded :loser:

[Cheese]

With respect to tech:
Don't use a stock mini axle, the width is silly and using a 20 plus year old housing on your truck and then trying to burn links to it is not worth it.

Diamond axles are the best Toy based option.

Do a little more research about E-locker vs. ARB. One unlocks fast, which is important in the front end.

Why 4 link? Mechanical steering, assist? Just asking, because there is tech there.

Not being a jerk or talking into or out of things, just saying this is what I think when I see this.

[Whitey]

http://ttora.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=36
http://www.yotatech.com/f152/
http://www.hunt4steve.com/99RunLtdSAS.html

[X-Tool Pimp]

Avy you already know my opinion



With respect to tech:
Don't use a stock mini axle, the width is silly and using a 20 plus year old housing on your truck and then trying to burn links to it is not worth it.
Metal is still metal 1 yr old or 20 yrs old it will still burn in just fine and is plenty strong (my truck is rolling proof)

Diamond axles are the best Toy based option.
I agree but $$ is always a factor




http://www.yotatech.com/f152/

:spit: Your freaking kidding me right, those yahoos dont know there butt from a hole in the ground....

[YotaFun]

With respect to tech:
Don't use a stock mini axle, the width is silly and using a 20 plus year old housing on your truck and then trying to burn links to it is not worth it.

Diamond axles are the best Toy based option.

Do a little more research about E-locker vs. ARB. One unlocks fast, which is important in the front end.

Why 4 link? Mechanical steering, assist? Just asking, because there is tech there.

Not being a jerk or talking into or out of things, just saying this is what I think when I see this.


No cheese this is the info I want.

I guess I am trying to stray away from something so aftermarket.
What is your opinion on the FJ80 axle with a high pinion diff?
And would the mini truck axle still me a freezable idea if I just so happen to stay leaf sprung? I mean there are plenty of guys out there that do wheel the heck out of them running huge tires, and at most break a birf before they destroy anything more major.

About the ARB vs e-locked, I would like to keep as little more extra plumbing as possible.
I mean I could figure out a way of doing the piping from the york compressor (like 4x4mike I think has) but at the same time I am hearing the more bad then good out of the ARB and air leaks, even with the guys I wheel with so I guess that was another aspect that I should research the more good then bad of.

4 link to me just seems like a option I would rather go with then leafs for the fact that ride quality and off road performance.
Don't get me wrong here, there are plenty of guys with leafs wheel there hardest out and going far, but I would like something to compliment the rear of the truck.

Whitey, I surf that board when I can, I even have links over at pirate, and I have read Steve's build many times before, yet he has gone with a different option then I.

I do see the way I have sort of contradicted myself in the fact that I want to build something capable of doing off road adventures but still keeping it an all Toyota drive line, but I just feel it would be something different, something no one else has done, and I feel I can make it work. If I am wrong so be it.

[YotaFun]

Avy you already know my opinion


Yes I know, we discussed it in Chat and I wish could have read my old thread to get a little more info out of the options I had, but I just deleted it cause I wasn't getting the results I like.

[04 Rocko Taco]

Like the ideas Avy.
Just be ready to take the criticisms cause everyone has 'em. :)

Also - just my opinion (state it this one time and then on to the tech) is that while I do appreciate the planning that goes into these things, I would wheel the piss out of it till it doesnt cut it. Thats always my plan for my truck, wheel it till it won't cut it anymore, and then mod, and keep going.

I'm not a forward planner like this, I dont plan my next mod until its time to do it, as new info gained between now and then may alter my plans, or I may see a different need than I originally envisioned based on my actual reason for needing to upgrade.

With that being said, best of luck, and lets get to the tech...
You may want to copy your ideas post over to this thread, and I'll try to keep an eye on it and help everyone play nice. :)

[Good Times]

if you really must stick w/ some factory stuff (though it wouldn't be my first option), you can get the new tundra rear axle which has a monster pumpkin :) that'll be a good starter for the rear though I'm not sure what you'd do with the front. if I had the desire to do what you're planning in the distant future, i'd get front and rear diamond axles or do something crazy like portal axles :)

I think the biggest difficulty you'll have isn't finding the right axle or what not, it's the building of the suspension design. That will seriously dictate how you want to build everything. Not only that you'll need to factor what kind of steering setup you want and how you want everything to fit in your 4runner w/o it becoming a monster truck.

If you haven't gone on pirate, download the latest 3 and 4 link setups along with a few different leaf designs and figure out what works for your application. You can have the best 4 link setup visually but it may not be ideal for your terrain so make sure to research all of the math (lots of geometry n crap). Get that squared away before you start buying or anything else. As you design your setup, make a lot of mock ups on designs of where each component will reside so once you start buying and fabricating, it'll be a walk in the park.

One thing that I learned from my adventure on building the 4 link rear was that an extensive research performed prior to building will save you a lot of time. I'm definitely grateful for the 2+ yrs of just plotting, designing and asking a lot of questions from others that have performed similar projects. Pirate is your friend :) O yeah budget for 2-3x your original cost :P

Lastly, remember that for every part you muck, it'll give you 10x the trouble cuz it's not stock anymore :flipoff: Also, every park you muck, it'll muck up other areas which requires you to muck up more! It's a never ending battle.

[Lee]

fj62 axle will work really well for your truck.

[20005spd]

as said above, you cant run a mini truck axle on our trucks, they are waay to narrow.

my first question would be, what is your budget? im planning to keep my sas cost low, im not spending 10k$ not every sas costs 10k$

the hard thing about planning when you dont know your weak spots is you dont really know what you NEED from what you WANT.

the reason for my sas is i need a front locker, lower t case gears and more flex. the cheapest way for me to do that is....ill be running an fzj80 axle, has the correct width for our trucks, comes with a front locker factory, comes with 410s which i will continue to run since im keeping my current tire size and will save me a ton of money, has very strong shafts that do not need to be upgraded. using this axle puts the diff on the pass side, so ill run an adapter, with a single case 4.7 gears. that gives me the crawl i need but saves me money cuz im not putting duals which requires another adapter another case which equals more money.

i dont wanna sas and be sky high so ill be linking the front to keep it low. also running leafs on an fj80 axle is tough because the steering will interferre with the leafs. look at the sased tacos and 4runners on the web and they are usually to tall for my liking.

as lee said fj 60 axles work well. good width for our trucks, 9.5" ring gear, everything else is like mini truck axle on it. steering, longs, leaf springs can be easily run. but after the cost of the axle and longs and gears and lockers (since a 60 axle dosent come with 410's you need to chgange it) your already up there in price and have no other parts.

dana 44, keeps diff on driver side, can find them everywhere, they sell everything you need to build them, but then if you wanna crawl, you need a $1400 crawl box

i could keep going but i think ive got your gears moving enough :D

[20005spd]

also fj 60 axle comes with course spline pinions

fj 62 axles come with fine spline and a truss on the axle, more desired than 60.

but if your changin gears im pretty sure the new ones would be fine spline :thumbup:

[Cheese]

A 20 year old, rusty, probably bent, leaf sprung axle that is funny shaped is not the same league for ease and strength as a Diamond. Not in the same price range either, but you get what you pay for here.

ARB's work, either run an air line to the diff or a wire. Same difference. I have seen/sold/installed 100's of ARB's and the ones that didn't work well were a product of crappy/careless install.

I have leafs on the front of my truck. It was stupid easy and it works well.

I have a high pinion front and am not worried about it. I have a low pinion, 8" rear and feel like I'm sitting on a time bomb with all the gearing and HP in there.

Are you saying a 4 link front?

[Cebby]

I think since you are doing long term and planning (and saving), the real question is - do you want to do this once, or do you want to build it based the ideology of it being all Toyota.

I had planned to go down the same road as you - mini housing up front - came to my senses and sold that off. My next idea was the FJ62 axle - almost bought one- came to my senses.

My long term plan is now either Diamond with FJ62 3rds (or a stronger Toy 3rd) or Spider 9's. Sure it will cost some bucks up front, but I've learned that the pace I work at (snail-like) and a lack of suitable work facilties would leave me with a truck that is down more than it is on the road/trail.

Leaves keep things simple, are predictable and are plenty durable - links take some doing to get right (fine if you have tools/welder and someplace to work on it).

[YotaFun]

Took a quick break from work to catch up on the thread.
I will respond later tonight to the questions and comments made above (can't write now cause it's kinda hard to do on an iPhone)

However this is some of the input I was really looking for so I would at least like to say thank you now for what has come out so far.

[04 Rocko Taco]

If I was you Avy, I have to agree with Cebby a little bit... I would seriously consider going the route of Spider Hi-9's or diamonds...

The whole links vs. leaves argument has gotten started here, so I'll leave that alone, and let you do that research on your own.

[AxleIke]

Couple of things:

FJ80 axles are sweet. Wrong side drop for your truck, so you'll be needing some adapters and gear drive stuff.

The steering is a pain. Looking at 700 for a high steer kit.

Leafs don't work well with these axles. As for links, a 4 link front is going to be pretty tricky with as much body as you are trying to retain. I 3 link w/panhard is going to be easier.

The stock mini is going to be pretty flipping narrow for a your rear axle. Lots of spacer needed.

To be honest, sign up on Pirate and start reading in the toyota sections. Every single one of your questions has been answered there, and then some. It'll take you months to wade through it all, but there is some AMAZING tech, especially with regards to link suspensions. I wouldn't waste time at the other sites. They have some of what Pirate has, but not nearly the same depth. Plus, on pirate, you can find many examples of trucks that have been built well, and people who've tried different things.

Yeah, there's a bunch of BS, but ignore that, and you'll be well informed when you start your swap.

Here are a couple of threads I found particularly useful when doing my truck:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168577

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204893

There are some others, but these give you the basics of link design. I don't know how mathematical you are, but for me, these two threads got me to the point where I have a good working understanding of link design and geometry. At least enough to be dangerous!!! :D LOL

[jrallan26]

Why not just buy a kit from an aftermarket company?

[20005spd]

its all in what you need. you need to find what YOU NEED. its all easy from that point

if you wanna be a pilot you dont buy a 747 cuz thats what you will eventually be able to fly. you go in steps :D

[YotaFun]

Like the ideas Avy.
Just be ready to take the criticisms cause everyone has 'em. :)

Also - just my opinion (state it this one time and then on to the tech) is that while I do appreciate the planning that goes into these things, I would wheel the piss out of it till it doesn't cut it. That's always my plan for my truck, wheel it till it won't cut it anymore, and then mod, and keep going.

I'm not a forward planner like this, I don't plan my next mod until its time to do it, as new info gained between now and then may alter my plans, or I may see a different need than I originally envisioned based on my actual reason for needing to upgrade.

Thanks Chris.
Me planning now doesn’t mean I am going to stop wheeling.
I can’t, heck I decided to take an impromptu trip into the Jersey Pine Barrens yesterday on my way to pick up rims. So it will still be wheeled.

I like to try to forward plan cause it seems when I jump into something I some how screw myself over in the long run and I am sort of tired of getting screwed….



if you really must stick w/ some factory stuff (though it wouldn't be my first option), you can get the new tundra rear axle which has a monster pumpkin :) that'll be a good starter for the rear though I'm not sure what you'd do with the front. if I had the desire to do what you're planning in the distant future, i'd get front and rear diamond axles or do something crazy like portal axles :)

I think the biggest difficulty you'll have isn't finding the right axle or what not, it's the building of the suspension design. That will seriously dictate how you want to build everything. Not only that you'll need to factor what kind of steering setup you want and how you want everything to fit in your 4runner w/o it becoming a monster truck.

If you haven't gone on pirate, download the latest 3 and 4 link setups along with a few different leaf designs and figure out what works for your application. You can have the best 4 link setup visually but it may not be ideal for your terrain so make sure to research all of the math (lots of geometry n crap). Get that squared away before you start buying or anything else. As you design your setup, make a lot of mock ups on designs of where each component will reside so once you start buying and fabricating, it'll be a walk in the park.

One thing that I learned from my adventure on building the 4 link rear was that an extensive research performed prior to building will save you a lot of time. I'm definitely grateful for the 2+ yrs of just plotting, designing and asking a lot of questions from others that have performed similar projects. Pirate is your friend :) O yeah budget for 2-3x your original cost :P

Lastly, remember that for every part you muck, it'll give you 10x the trouble cuz it's not stock anymore :flipoff: Also, every park you muck, it'll muck up other areas which requires you to muck up more! It's a never ending battle.

I was going to actually try to keep the rear set up as is.
I love the flex out of it I get now, it is the only part that probably helps my truck most on the trails lol!
Portals would be cool but I am trying to be Toyota based.

I am seeing the steering issue come about and I guess in my mind I was going to try to encorporate the steering design from what ever vehcile I pick, weather it be the Mini or the FJ and fit it in. I know it is not as easy as it sounds but would be a start.

With the suspension set up in the front, I need something that will be very versatile. From going down the road, to hitting the rock to rolling down the sand. I guess I like the idea of the 4-link cause I don’t have to worry about the panhard with the 3-link. But again I am trying to discuss tech, 3-link could be my option so. Lance it will probably be 2+ years of me researching and taking measurements before I take the sawsall out. That’s why I am planning and researching. Lol extra money I am sure is always needed with such a huge endeavor.



as said above, you cant run a mini truck axle on our trucks, they are waay to narrow.

my first question would be, what is your budget? im planning to keep my sas cost low, im not spending 10k$ not every sas costs 10k$

the hard thing about planning when you dont know your weak spots is you dont really know what you NEED from what you WANT.

the reason for my sas is i need a front locker, lower t case gears and more flex. the cheapest way for me to do that is....ill be running an fzj80 axle, has the correct width for our trucks, comes with a front locker factory, comes with 410s which i will continue to run since im keeping my current tire size and will save me a ton of money, has very strong shafts that do not need to be upgraded. using this axle puts the diff on the pass side, so ill run an adapter, with a single case 4.7 gears. that gives me the crawl i need but saves me money cuz im not putting duals which requires another adapter another case which equals more money.

i dont wanna sas and be sky high so ill be linking the front to keep it low. also running leafs on an fj80 axle is tough because the steering will interferre with the leafs. look at the sased tacos and 4runners on the web and they are usually to tall for my liking.

as lee said fj 60 axles work well. good width for our trucks, 9.5" ring gear, everything else is like mini truck axle on it. steering, longs, leaf springs can be easily run. but after the cost of the axle and longs and gears and lockers (since a 60 axle dosent come with 410's you need to chgange it) your already up there in price and have no other parts.

dana 44, keeps diff on driver side, can find them everywhere, they sell everything you need to build them, but then if you wanna crawl, you need a $1400 crawl box

i could keep going but i think ive got your gears moving enough :D


Good question the the budget, I will have to get back to you on that. I know I am trying to keep the cost as low as I can and I am sure that it will be at least close to the 10K mark. Sometimes that just can not be avoided with all the little things you have to get on top. Plus with the way the economy is, that budget could really become to small to quick.

Think of it this way when it comes to the planning, as utterly stupid as it may sounds and so far fetched it just makes you want to puke, the truck needs to be able to do trails such as in the ultimate adventures, where you do need a front locker, lower transfer case gears and more flex.

I like the idea of the FJZ80 axle cause yes, it does come with the e-locker, and I will have to change gears to match my rear, considering I am running 4.30 now, but might be changing out anyway if I will be running a 35 or 37.

Then there is of course the passenger side drop, and that will have to be addressed in the transfer case by switching to the gear style case, with the option of going lower gears that’s a plus.

For the sky high factor I am in the same boat. Heck I am tipsy enough as is I don’t want to go any higher. More try to level the front with the rear. I don’t know how easy that will be, iirc correctly Brad has some issue with trying to archive the ride high he desired and ended up having to go a little higher, then again that was his set up and I might not run into the same problem I just don’t know yet till that time comes.

The gears wont stop moving, I was tired when I got home last night but couldn’t sleep, and when I did I started dreaming about this project lol!



ARB's work, either run an air line to the diff or a wire. Same difference. I have seen/sold/installed 100's of ARB's and the ones that didn't work well were a product of crappy/careless install.

I have leafs on the front of my truck. It was stupid easy and it works well.

I have a high pinion front and am not worried about it. I have a low pinion, 8" rear and feel like I'm sitting on a time bomb with all the gearing and HP in there.

Are you saying a 4 link front?


Yeah I was saying 4-link the front but that isn’t looking so plausible anymore as I read on. So that plan might be nixed for a 3-link again still researching.

I guess I feel I would be saving money if I stuck with finding a fjz80 axle with the e-locker in it. Rare I am sure but if I can get lucky find one and nab it.



I think since you are doing long term and planning (and saving), the real question is - do you want to do this once, or do you want to build it based the ideology of it being all Toyota.

I had planned to go down the same road as you - mini housing up front - came to my senses and sold that off. My next idea was the FJ62 axle - almost bought one- came to my senses.

My long term plan is now either Diamond with FJ62 3rds (or a stronger Toy 3rd) or Spider 9's. Sure it will cost some bucks up front, but I've learned that the pace I work at (snail-like) and a lack of suitable work facilties would leave me with a truck that is down more than it is on the road/trail.

Leaves keep things simple, are predictable and are plenty durable - links take some doing to get right (fine if you have tools/welder and someplace to work on it).


I like the idea of the diamond axle but I don’t think I fully comprehend what I read on there site. I get the idea of more clearance at the 3rd and I get the idea of king pins, but I guess, isn’t the rest of the axle pretty much the Toyota 3rd, longs, and knuckles? So my question is could I get the housing and then just transfer everything from the Toyota axle into the diamond?

Also a bare housing along from diamond is for a Toyota style is $900. eek but like you said, if I want to do this once this would be the way to go.

[corax]

Good question the the budget, I will have to get back to you on that. I know I am trying to keep the cost as low as I can and I am sure that it will be at least close to the 10K mark. Sometimes that just can not be avoided with all the little things you have to get on top. Plus with the way the economy is, that budget could really become to small to quick.


The advantage you have is that it seems like you're not in a hurry so you can bargain hunt and store parts until you're ready - for example when I did my engine swap, there was 1-1.5 years of planning, research and junkyarding into it which cut my cost and aggravation immensely.

I still think if/when you decide to run an LC front axle that you should try to find an import front clip w/ diesel to snag the parts from, that way you'll have factory engineered steering and suspension to reference + I remember you talking about a diesel swap awhile back, but if you ever plan to register Tess in CA you might want to reconsider the diesel part

[YotaFun]

The advantage you have is that it seems like you're not in a hurry so you can bargain hunt and store parts until you're ready - for example when I did my engine swap, there was 1-1.5 years of planning, research and junkyarding into it which cut my cost and aggravation immensely.

I still think if/when you decide to run an LC front axle that you should try to find an import front clip w/ diesel to snag the parts from, that way you'll have factory engineered steering and suspension to reference + I remember you talking about a diesel swap awhile back, but if you ever plan to register Tess in CA you might want to reconsider the diesel part


Exactly Keith, Its not like I plan on doing this withing the next year, but a while from now while and can bargain hunt and store.

The diesel swap has left my mind for good. While it was a cool idea, I am happy with the 3.l the way it is now.

[Good Times]

keith actually has a great idea. get a lc100 front axle and everything else and just use that! :)

hell that actually sounds good for me (lol.... jk)

[DHC6twinotter]

Avy, this guy has done a super low 3-link 80 axle swap on a Taco (Thanks Chris for showing me this!):
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52875

He kept the steering linkages pretty much stock and kept the tie rod behind the front axle.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e356/cpsavinski/SAC/PC200249.jpg

Doing something like that will keep you from spending $$$$$$ on a Slee high steer setup, although this guy keeps bending the stock tie rod.

Also, the SASed old school looking 05+ taco on display recently (SEMA?) used a 80 front axle with stock radius arms. Really cool setup.

From what I understand, one of the nice things about Diamond is that they can build an axle with FJ60 knuckles, which will allow you to use the high steer setup that Marlin sells (much cheaper than Slee's).

Just my $.02.

[slosurfer]

keith actually has a great idea. get a lc100 front axle and everything else and just use that! :)

hell that actually sounds good for me (lol.... jk)


Wait, isn't a LC100 IFS and torsion bars? :D

[DHC6twinotter]

Wait, isn't a LC100 IFS and torsion bars? :D


Yup, but the 105 has a solid axle front and an available 5 speed (H151) tranny behind the 2uz. :thumbup:

:D

[Cheese]

Mini knuckles, 30 spline Longfield, hub gears, etc. will handle all the tire you'll ever want and have cheap/easy high steer.

80 knuckles will handle more, but have more complicated and expensive steering.

Diamond housing with Toy knuckles takes the third of your choosing and the rest like a standard Mini, or how it is spec'd.

Why do you want links? Links with coils or coilovers?

Take a stock housing, truss the heck out of it, add all sorts of new tabs since it is not being used in the stock application and it will be as straight as Richard Simmons. Then when you thrash on it, it will get worse.

Let's save this thread. If you want a solid axle rig to rock crawl, you're starting with the wrong platform. Not sure if we have covered the final intention of this project yet.

Again apologies.

[20005spd]

just 80 axle it up avy

i picked this up today
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t107/20005spd/IMG_0116.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t107/20005spd/IMG_0117.jpg

[YotaFun]

Mini knuckles, 30 spline Longfield, hub gears, etc. will handle all the tire you'll ever want and have cheap/easy high steer.

80 knuckles will handle more, but have more complicated and expensive steering.

Diamond housing with Toy knuckles takes the third of your choosing and the rest like a standard Mini, or how it is spec'd.

Why do you want links? Links with coils or coilovers?

Take a stock housing, truss the heck out of it, add all sorts of new tabs since it is not being used in the stock application and it will be as straight as Richard Simmons. Then when you thrash on it, it will get worse.

Let's save this thread. If you want a solid axle rig to rock crawl, you're starting with the wrong platform. Not sure if we have covered the final intention of this project yet.

Again apologies.


Likes with coilovers is what I was shooting for.
I just like the idea of links, and I personally feel they get more flex.
I know there is an ongoing argument about it but that is my opinion.

This is what the projects finial intention is going to be, as far fetched as it may sound to you all and the chances of me getting into it are slim I want it to be an Ultimate Adventure Rig.
I would like to participate in the 4Wheel Ultimate Adventure.
So with that said, some of the requirements to me eligible to do this adventure is as follows, and the things I list only pertain to why I would need to SAS
Front and Rear Locker (LSD doesn't count)
Minimum tire Size of 35

The rest of the list already is in the plans even though the truck is IFS (winch, roll cage, being self sufficient, etc.)

No apologies necessary Cheese, your still giving info that I am looking for.

I think it would be cool to do it with a 3rd gen 4Runner.

[YotaFun]

just 80 axle it up avy

i picked this up today
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t107/20005spd/IMG_0116.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t107/20005spd/IMG_0117.jpg


Rusty but looks banging Brain
didn't realize they were set up that way.

[YotaFun]

This is a sweet SAS'd 3rd Gen

More pics of my rig from other people on the Dusy trip, lets see if these shutterfly links work...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8d628b3127cce985489d0e3e100000056108YcOGbhq1E

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8d628b3127cce985489e162e000000056108YcOGbhq1E

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8d628b3127cce985489d362d200000056108YcOGbhq1E

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8d628b3127cce98548986e3b700000056108YcOGbhq1E

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8d628b3127cce98548987628600000056108YcOGbhq1E

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8d628b3127cce985489a962a800000056108YcOGbhq1E

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8d628b3127cce98548996e3a700000056108YcOGbhq1E

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8d628b3127cce985489cae3fb00000056108YcOGbhq1E

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8d628b3127cce98548985628400000056108YcOGbhq1E

[Cheese]

I have been on part of the UA and worked on two of the rigs. It is an interesting goal.

Links and coilovers on a bodied truck are not getting the most out of any part of the equation.

Eric has done a lot of work to make the truck drivable and perform. Crazy flex or super travel may not actually help trail performance.

Lots of work goes into make a truck that is linked on both ends and is still streetable.

This is inspiring me to re-up my Montypics to get my truck pictures up again.

[YotaFun]

I have been on part of the UA and worked on two of the rigs. It is an interesting goal.


I have always wanted to do it, just never really pursued it but the more I keep reading and looking and the places they go, it just seem like one of those things on the list of things to do before you die kinda deal.



Links and coilovers on a bodied truck are not getting the most out of any part of the equation.


Can you elaborate?



Eric has done a lot of work to make the truck drivable and perform. Crazy flex or super travel may not actually help trail performance.

Lots of work goes into make a truck that is linked on both ends and is still streetable.


But its possible lol!



This is inspiring me to re-up my Montypics to get my truck pictures up again.


Inspiration huh?

[Cheese]

On a full bodied truck, you have things like frame and body that limit where you put links and coilovers. You also have a heavy, bodied truck above the links and coilovers. On a tube car, the concessions are not as big because you can design around the optimal links.

Eric has an awesome truck, no doubt. He committed to making the thing work with swaybars and lots of homework, you're on your way with homework now.

[AxleIke]

On a full bodied truck, you have things like frame and body that limit where you put links and coilovers. You also have a heavy, bodied truck above the links and coilovers. On a tube car, the concessions are not as big because you can design around the optimal links.

Eric has an awesome truck, no doubt. He committed to making the thing work with swaybars and lots of homework, you're on your way with homework now.


x2.

If you look in those threads I posted, a common theme is that people design their link set up, and then have to go with a "as close as we can" actual fabrication.

To get amazing flex in the front, you will likely have to either go sky high with the truck, which would mean redoing your rear, or stay low and go through the fenders/hood.

The compromises around the body/frame also mean that you can end up with increased dive, and roll/bumpsteer. Not a big deal on a trailered rock rig, but on a street driven truck, it can be an issue, especially at speed.

One other think to consider is that with a 4link, you can end up with designs that mean removing the front suspension in order to do transmission/transfercase work.

Personally, I think this is an awesome idea, and look forward to the result. I like unique trucks, something very few others have. And as Cheese points out, its all about the homework. Getting a solid understanding of link design and performance will keep you from being frustrated and spending un-needed cash when the time comes to swap. I wish I had done more homework before I started.

[corax]

found this to get you started -> front hi-pinion e-locker (http://montana.craigslist.org/pts/1181160354.html) (though I think they might be asking a bit much)

[AxleIke]

Yeah, thats a bit high.

You can get a whole complete axle housing for 900 around here. Someone I saw recently got a heckuva deal, but I don't know where they were at.

Just FYI, the elockers are slow to lock/unlock. Great for a rear, but an ARB is better in the front. If you get a deal on an elocker, then for sure get it. But for the coin they're asking in that ad, I'd just get an ARB. Cost is 700, plus 150 for a compressor=same price.

[YotaFun]

Eric has an awesome truck, no doubt. He committed to making the thing work with swaybars and lots of homework, you're on your way with homework now.


That why I wanted to discuss, I read but I am sure I have probably missed a few things here and there.

I am wondering if I could run the ARB off the York compressor I will be installing...

[Cebby]

I am wondering if I could run the ARB off the York compressor I will be installing...


Yes. You can run it off of a Powertank if you wanted to. Any air source will do.

[AxleIke]

ARB air pressure range is 85-105 psi. 90-95 is about the sweet spot.

[YotaFun]

After reading and cooling my head down drastically and really realizing that I want to do this right.
I think I am going to go with a diamond axle.
Still going to go with e-locked FJ80 internals.

Probably will do the same in the rear eventually.

So I guess I would still source the FJ80 axle for the internals.

For now I am just going to build up the rest of her for expedition travel till then, since I might be getting another project after I see a certain one ;-)

[waskillywabbit]

I am wondering if I could run the ARB off the York compressor I will be installing...


Yes. You can run it off of a Powertank if you wanted to. Any air source will do.


Went to WEROCK several weeks ago and all the Ftoy guys were running their ARBs off mini powertanks, like paintball gun size, with simple pressure switches, no electrical solenoids. Very sweet. :D

:guitar:

[YotaFun]

I am wondering if I could run the ARB off the York compressor I will be installing...


Yes. You can run it off of a Powertank if you wanted to. Any air source will do.


Went to WEROCK several weeks ago and all the Ftoy guys were running their ARBs off mini powertanks, like paintball gun size, with simple pressure switches, no electrical solenoids. Very sweet. :D

:guitar:


that would be a interesting set up to look at

[4x4mike]

Search on Pirate. There are guys using the mini CO2 nail gun tanks for their lockers. I think the best deal were the ones from Lowes (Kobalt brand). I think someone out there makes mounts for the tanks as well (20 oz tank). Personally I'm partial to the york.

[YotaFun]

Search on Pirate. There are guys using the mini CO2 nail gun tanks for their lockers. I think the best deal were the ones from Lowes (Kobalt brand). I think someone out there makes mounts for the tanks as well (20 oz tank). Personally I'm partial to the york.


oh still gonna be going with the york, I would just be interested to see the set up,
maybe use it for my next project....

[4x4mike]

There are pictures some where of them mounted but here is the Kobalt unit.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=656384