E Locker motor repair

[corax]

Just as an FYI for anyone looking to take a couple broken/inoperative elocker actuators and make 1 good one. Externally they are the same, the housing and the gear that moves the the rack/shift fork are the same. Internally there are differences, so some parts may not swap back and forth. I'm doing this because a new actuator will run >$800, good used ones are near impossible to find, and Downey is no longer in business (no other cable actuated conversions that I know of :().

This is what I started with (see that giant corroded hole on the left one? Gotta love road salt in the winter)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/100_4581.jpg
You can start to see differences between the two here. Parts on the left are from the actuator on the left in the pic above. The shafts are different (same length at least), the one on left is a one piece with a smaller diameter pilot bushing on one end. The one on left also only has 1 coil spring (if you stack the 2 on the right, they end up being approx same height). How they operate is the same, on the right, the coil springs are installed opposite each other and engage the shaft directly. On the left, the single spring engages the collar on the stop pawl and handles twisty forces in both directions. None of these parts swap between the 2 styles
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/100_4583.jpg
There's also a change in the worm drive from the motor itself to the big gear which turns the external gear. The one on the bottom is from the actuator on the left and has finer teeth.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/100_4584.jpg
Which also means the motor drive itself has a finer drive mesh on the worm gear
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/100_4585.jpg
incidentally, the one on the left also had a motor magnet out of place which made it weaker (though the giant hole + 2 cups of dirt + corrosion is what ultimately killed that one)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/100_4586.jpg

So I decided to repair the one with the giant hole since the housing is (more-or-less complete). I took everything apart and wire wheeled the bejeezus out of everything to get mud/dirt/rust/corrosion out of there. Glued the motor magnet back in place, lubed it up really good and got it somewhat back together. The motor works, the gear turns and the contacts make good contact. Now I just need to fix the giant hole - I'm trying epoxy putty now. If that doesn't look like it'll hold, I may try 1/4" plate steel (drilled bolt pattern) with a machined bushing welded on for the drive gear shaft to ride in. Luckily, my friend/roomy/landlord has a lathe in his race shop. I'll update as I get frustrated.

[paddlenbike]

Interesting. Ten years ago I put a 1997 4Runner e-locker into my '94 truck. I noticed shortly after purchasing a 2000 4Runner with the factory e-locker that it seemed to lock and unlock easier. I wonder if the finer mesh on the gears is the reason. (I am assuming of course that the finer meshed gear is the newer design.)

[YotaFun]

Hey Keith,
Does it seem generally easy to take apart and R&R the motor?

I am wondering If I should go ahead and do that before I wire mine up to ensure that its clean and in good working order...

[corax]

Yeah, it's generally not that difficult, the hardest part is holding both brushes in while putting the armature back in place. Make sure parts go together the way they came apart, draw pictures or take photos if you have to.

I cleaned everything up with a bench mounted wire wheel (or dremel), including the part the brushes ride on. Made it very shiny.

[Robinhood4x4]

My high pinion one I installed a few years ago seems to lock and unlock pretty quick too.

[YotaFun]

I might tackle this,
I have to get the wiring harness together now that I have wires
Then test

[corax]

I got around to fixing the hole yesterday - used some extra fuel tank repair putty that I had laying around, clamped it to a block of wood (with tape on the wood to prevent the putty from sticking) and pressed the putty in as firmly as I could, later I used the wire wheel to smooth the back side a bit.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/100_4597.jpg
The "snout" that goes into the diff was broken off also, so after the putty set I pulled the snout back off and put a tiny bit of JBWeld on the broken bits and pressed it back into place. I clamped it to the diff to make sure that the snout was properly aligned while it set overnight
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/100_4596.jpg
Finished product and ready for reassembly:
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/100_4599.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/100_4598.jpg

Now I just need to get a gear set for the rear, set it up, modify the housing, swap my front LSD into a 3rd with 4.88s . . .

[YotaFun]

You picked up that third from christain didn't you? Lol

looking good Keith, should be all set for fall crawl then.

[corax]

You picked up that third from christain didn't you? Lol

looking good Keith, should be all set for fall crawl then.


Yeah, I gotta actually swing by next week to pick it up. I'm just not sure I'll have this all set by the end of October - next couple weekends will be in WV cutting a construction entrance through the property and trying to get all that together. I was originally thinking of putting the 4.56 gear from my housing into the e-locker, but I'd still have to get a collar and set everything up . . .

[YotaFun]

yeah, so you'll be residing in WV huh?

[corax]

eventually. Still don't even know if we're going with a log cabin or underground concrete/rebar home. Might even just get water/septic/electric and take the RV down there if it's supposed to be a mild winter . . .

[YotaFun]

Well its no PA, but it is nice down there.

Too bad your gears can't fit in my diffs, after you go to 4.88 I wouldn't mind going 4.56 myself

[corax]

Well its no PA, but it is nice down there.

Too bad your gears can't fit in my diffs, after you go to 4.88 I wouldn't mind going 4.56 myself


The front no, the gears from my V6 rear 3rd should fit in an elocker, but they also have unknown mileage and would have to be set-up with the same exact contact pattern - probably better to spend the $ on a new gear set + solid collar.

[YotaFun]

Yeah I figured as much, for now I haver other priorities, the 4.30s will have to sufice.

[corax]

One last pic of the actuator all finished, tested and ready to go

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/axle%20stuff/100_4600.jpg

Yukon 4.88 gears with a solid pinion collar are next on the list

[YotaFun]

Reviving this thread.
How hard would you say this was to do?

I figured out my motor solenoid is good, but I think the actual gear section is seized.
Would I be able to take it apart and clean it out and hopefully it will work, or should I look for a motor to source parts?

[corax]

Wasn't too difficult - stick a boat drain plug or a rubber "universal oil drain plug" in while the motor it's off to keep it clean inside. Besides, taking it apart to lube and clean (wire wheel everything EXCEPT the plastic gear) is relatively free. Just be gentle taking the cast alum plate off to get to the guts.

Do you have the single spring, fine mesh gear or the double spring gear? I have spare double spring stuff if you need any parts

[BruceTS]

If your in need of an e-locker motor assy, let me know.....I've got 3 broken 3rd members sitting in my garage with them.

[YotaFun]

Wasn't too difficult - stick a boat drain plug or a rubber "universal oil drain plug" in while the motor it's off to keep it clean inside. Besides, taking it apart to lube and clean (wire wheel everything EXCEPT the plastic gear) is relatively free. Just be gentle taking the cast alum plate off to get to the guts.

Do you have the single spring, fine mesh gear or the double spring gear? I have spare double spring stuff if you need any parts


I haven't gotten to it yet but thats for the tips.



If your in need of an e-locker motor assy, let me know.....I've got 3 broken 3rd members sitting in my garage with them.


I might take you up on that actually Bruce, I presume one of the three works lol!

I figure have one lying around just in case I screw something up, and If I do get it fixed I can ship it back to you so you have it for the diff

[YotaFun]

Got the motor yesterday Bruce.

and I have to say YOU RULE!!!

having a selectable locker is awesome!!!!

[YotaFun]

So I am finally getting around to doing this on my spare locker motor since the one in there has been kind of getting stuck lately.

The current one I am working on is the double spring find mesh gear style.

The motor and magnets portion of the locker was beautiful, no corrosion what so ever.

It wasn't till I got the rest of the case open where I found the issue.
The main case either got filled with water through the breather tube or the o-ring between the two failed.

I have it all taken apart and am starting to clean everything (have the springs soaking in PB blaster right now)

However I notices that the shaft that turns the tiny gear that moves the fork seized, trying to figure out a way to possibly get that out and clean that opening, right now I have it soaking as well and have got it to wiggle back and forth a little bit but no much luck.

[Seanz0rz]

apply some heat with a torch if you can. thermal cycling will help to break up the rust bonds.

[YotaFun]

it actually pressed right out, got my little dremel brush out to start cleaning it out

[corax]

Well, it lasted about 3 years but finally started to fail on me. If anyone has a spare or has a line on one, even if it's just an intact housing or only good for parts, let me know. I need to figure something out before I realize how much I need it on the next search call-out.

[Seanz0rz]

you can always manually slide the locker spring actuator with a screw driver. not ideal, but works in a pinch.

[corax]

That works well to unlock it, but my current uses don't give me much time between asphalt and dirt to unbolt anything. The other problem with using a screwdriver to lock it is that the actuator has a spring to hold it into the locked position, without that slight pressure on the collar it can work itself partially or fully disengaged (less than full engagement can lead to breakage from concentrated stresses).

I took it off and cleaned the corrosion out again so it seems to be operational at this time, but with the "snout" broken off, it's just a matter of time till it fails again. All I really need is the plate that the snout is part of (bit that contacts the diff), the rest is still fine.

[YotaFun]

Keith, if I can't get you that motor, would it be possible to make a mold of the piece you need and find someone to do a metal cast of it?

[Seanz0rz]

or a CNC. Keith, PM me about it and we'll talk. might be able to get you one in the fall if you can wait that long.

[corax]

Keith, if I can't get you that motor, would it be possible to make a mold of the piece you need and find someone to do a metal cast of it?


or a CNC. Keith, PM me about it and we'll talk. might be able to get you one in the fall if you can wait that long.


I was thinking I might be able to do a version out of steel, or maybe even find someone to TIG the aluminum snout back onto the plate. The repair to the corroded hole is holding just fine, it's just the snout the won't stay epoxied on. There was also a thread on Pirate about a new cable conversion, but that was a bit pricier than a new actuator. I'll have to give it a few days thought and see what I come up with. For now it's working again