99 4runner 3.4 L v-6 won't idle below 1000?

[Cuthroat72]

I have (as stated in the title) a 1999 4runner, with the 3.4 V-6. I recently cleaned the MAF sensor and the throttle body, with the appropriate cleaners. After I got everything buttoned back up, I started the truck and took it for a short drive, and when I got back, it continued to idle around 1,000. IIRC, it was idling at 600-800 before I cleaned everything. It continues to idle around 1K now(it has been a week). Yesterday, I disconnected the battery and let the truck "reset" for about 5 minutes. I started it up and it idled at 650. I went for a drive, and it is back to 1K. At initial startup, it goes to 1500, but when I put it under a load, it comes down to 1000. Any ideas?

FYI, it's got 212,000 miles on it, and it's a 5 speed.

Thanks in advance guys.


-Romans

[4x4mike]

Maybe you need to clean the IAC now? I had to clean mine but it was causing the RPM to drop (~450).

[Cuthroat72]

What is the best what to go about cleaning the IAC? I understand it's around the throttle body somewhere... but I am not really sure what I am looking for.

[Seanz0rz]

make sure the truck is cold, take the throttle body off, youll have to disconnect the coolant lines that run through the TB and IAC. the IAC is located on the bottom of the tb, its 4 phillips screws to get it off. clean it with intake cleaner. be careful not to pinch the o ring when reassembling it.

[Cuthroat72]

Thanks guys. I will give 'er a shot and see what it does. Thanks again for the quick replies!

[Cuthroat72]

Okay, I cleaned the IAC. When I started it up, it went to 2,000 RPM. I took it for a drive, and then it wouldn't get below 1,500 RPM. Keep in mind that the engine has had time to warm up. I managed to get the idle down to 670-ish, but I am gonna need some help explaining this one.

I was hoping there was something stuck somewhere, so I put the throttle thru a full range of motion.
I revved it to 3K, and it came back down to 2K.
I revved it to 4200, came back to 1100. :screwy: So following this logic, I took it to ALMOST redline, and I am now idling at 670ish. Can anybody explain this one? I have been dealing with this for almost 2 solid weeks, and didn't know that the skinny pedal was the answer. If it's still idling where i want it next time I start it up, I am done, and have no complaints.

[Seanz0rz]

recalibrated the TPS? dunno man.

[Cuthroat72]

Me either. I guess it's just one of those "shake your head and laugh while making the universal sign for 'I don't know'" deals. Either way, I am satisfied with the results. Thanks again to everyone for the help. Wish I could see you guys on the trail, but that's gotta wait a while.

[MTL_4runner]

Okay, I cleaned the IAC. When I started it up, it went to 2,000 RPM. I took it for a drive, and then it wouldn't get below 1,500 RPM. Keep in mind that the engine has had time to warm up. I managed to get the idle down to 670-ish, but I am gonna need some help explaining this one.

I was hoping there was something stuck somewhere, so I put the throttle thru a full range of motion.
I revved it to 3K, and it came back down to 2K.
I revved it to 4200, came back to 1100. :screwy: So following this logic, I took it to ALMOST redline, and I am now idling at 670ish. Can anybody explain this one? I have been dealing with this for almost 2 solid weeks, and didn't know that the skinny pedal was the answer. If it's still idling where i want it next time I start it up, I am done, and have no complaints.


Some weird stuff can happen with the IAC (esp after cleaning it). If the idle is still off after then you might want to fill the IAC with WD40. I've found that after cleaning sometimes the idle screw will stick (as opposed to being blocked from carbon buildup) and the WD40 can help bring the idle back to normal. I'd also check the TPS but my bet is still with the IAC.

[Cuthroat72]

MTL, my hero. Is it just me, or are you Mr. Answers going incognito? Ha ha. Yeah, I took it out for a drive tonight and it still doesn't wanna act right. It gets up and goes, it just doesn't want to idle back. Your WD-40 suggestion and the idle screw, how would one go about performing that fix? I know where everything is in terms of the throttle body, etc., and am becoming really acquainted as of late with that general area. Is it just one of those rip it all out and hose it down procedures, or more of a find the slot and hold the nozzle down til the bottle is empty kind of deals? I am getting ready to make a hundred or so mile drive back to my hometown, and I will have access to better tools while I am there, and my motorhead buddies too. :wrenchin: I have noticed however that the further I drive it, the more compliant it gets. Maybe the sensors just like to be dirty? Ha ha. Other than the fast idle, it's running like a champ.

Thanks again for all of you guys's help. It's not that I wouldn't know what to do, it's more of a "knows just enough to get himself into trouble" kind of situation, ya know? You guys are the best! And I look forward to the time when I have enough time to do something beyond "budget" modifications and will be able to contribute to these conversations for other users. Anyone know where I can get some time and money? :D

[Cabin2N]

what did you use to clean the MAS? I've heard that if you don't use cleaner that's made for the MAS it can get residue on the wires that mess up the temp read. I know my 4runner (96 v-6 manual) will run fast when its cool. I've seen it hold at 2200rpm. I don't even have to use the skinny petal till I shift into 3rd some mornings.

[CJM]

Mass airflow cleaner, tbh i think its nothing more than carb cleaner thats safe for plastics.

[MTL_4runner]

what did you use to clean the MAS? I've heard that if you don't use cleaner that's made for the MAS it can get residue on the wires that mess up the temp read. I know my 4runner (96 v-6 manual) will run fast when its cool. I've seen it hold at 2200rpm. I don't even have to use the skinny petal till I shift into 3rd some mornings.




Mass airflow cleaner, tbh i think its nothing more than carb cleaner thats safe for plastics.


The MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor should only be cleaned with something that doesn't leave a residue. Brake cleaner seems to work the best for the job. I would caution people using carb cleaner since it does leave an oily residue which can foul the MAF after.

[Cuthroat72]

I used Mass Air cleaner. You can find it in the area with all of the other cleaners (Carb, throttle body, etc.) The chemical is different from the other cleaners, and yeah, it's supposed to be plastic safe.
I feel ya on the not having to mash the gas deal. My biggest frustration is the extra gas I feel like I am burning. I used to only hear cash registers when I had to merge on the interstate. Now I hear it in the parking lot!!! :rofl:

[MTL_4runner]

MTL, my hero. Is it just me, or are you Mr. Answers going incognito? Ha ha. Yeah, I took it out for a drive tonight and it still doesn't wanna act right. It gets up and goes, it just doesn't want to idle back. Your WD-40 suggestion and the idle screw, how would one go about performing that fix? I know where everything is in terms of the throttle body, etc., and am becoming really acquainted as of late with that general area. Is it just one of those rip it all out and hose it down procedures, or more of a find the slot and hold the nozzle down til the bottle is empty kind of deals? I am getting ready to make a hundred or so mile drive back to my hometown, and I will have access to better tools while I am there, and my motorhead buddies too. :wrenchin: I have noticed however that the further I drive it, the more compliant it gets. Maybe the sensors just like to be dirty? Ha ha. Other than the fast idle, it's running like a champ.

Thanks again for all of you guys's help. It's not that I wouldn't know what to do, it's more of a "knows just enough to get himself into trouble" kind of situation, ya know? You guys are the best! And I look forward to the time when I have enough time to do something beyond "budget" modifications and will be able to contribute to these conversations for other users. Anyone know where I can get some time and money? :D


Happy to help in any case. The best thing is to let it soak for an hour after you've removed it for cleaning but perhaps just spraying it into the port in the intake (there's a hole inside the throttle body which goes to the IAC allowing air to bypass the butterfly valve).

Make sure you read this thread if you haven't already:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=3148.0

[Cuthroat72]

I will give it a shot first chance I get. Thanks again MTL.

[Cuthroat72]

For anyone who might know, is your IAC valve supposed to be comlpletely closed at idle? I noticed when I had mine apart, that it wants to stay open about a 16th of an inch or more, and that the spring doesn't completely close it. Could this be why my truck still wants to idle high? I am afraid it's getting worse instead of better. The other question I have is could it be vacuum related? It's beginning to get a little frustrating, simply because I have had it apart about 4 times now, and the idle will sometimes stick at 2,000, causing me to accelerate when I want to be coasting or slowing down.

Any quick feedback?

[MTL_4runner]

The computer will adjust the opening on the IAC but typically it's not totally closed even at idle.

[CJM]

It could be a vacuum leak of line thats off or something, I once had that happen on a nissan I was working on. Turned out a vacuum like came off and it would idle like super high.

Which line it is I dunno. I would check for cracks and such.

[Cuthroat72]

Well, a hundred and some-odd miles later, it's still giving me fits. Everything is hooked up, and I am not seeing any cracks on any lines, no hissing etc., and I am just about ready to start throwing money at this thing starting with the IAC. I don't have a CEL on, and I am thinking I am going to have to pony up and let a local auto parts place hook it up and see if it's throwing codes and go with that.

Otherwise, and this is the frustrating part, it's running like a champ. I got 100 miles, maybe more, on a quarter of a tank. It's killing me! Any suggestions fellas?

[Seanz0rz]

test the TPS and see if its in spec. that info is in the FSM.

does it ever, EVER idle normally? maybe your throttle cable is too tight, or your cruise cable. IIRC there are 3 cables that go to the throttle, check to make sure none of them are too tight. disconnect all 3, see if it idles correctly, put them back on one at a time, until it messes up.

[Cuthroat72]

Seanz... Yeah. I can get it down to 600 if I crack the throttle to redline like I am challenging someone to a dragrace or something stupid like that. Take it to redline and let it come back and it idles like velvet. BUUUUUUUT, as soon as you pull out to go anywhere, whether leisurely or in a hurry, it's right back up to 1500. Sometimes as high as 2000.

In other painful issues, I just checked and a new from Advance Auto (more than likely rebuilt) IAC is 210 friggin dollars. Sheesh. That's a 12th of the bluebook on the ole girl! haha

[MTL_4runner]

Seanz... Yeah. I can get it down to 600 if I crack the throttle to redline like I am challenging someone to a dragrace or something stupid like that. Take it to redline and let it come back and it idles like velvet. BUUUUUUUT, as soon as you pull out to go anywhere, whether leisurely or in a hurry, it's right back up to 1500. Sometimes as high as 2000.

In other painful issues, I just checked and a new from Advance Auto (more than likely rebuilt) IAC is 210 friggin dollars. Sheesh. That's a 12th of the bluebook on the ole girl! haha


That really sounds like something is hanging up on you. Use a liberal amount of WD40 or PB blaster on the throttle cable and throttle body then check to make sure it is returing to the idle position after you let off the gas. The return spring on throttle body may also be damaged so check that too. Worst case you might just buy a used throttle body (which has the IAC included) and see if that helps.

[Cuthroat72]

I will go down today and hit it all again. As far as I remember, there's plenty of slack in the the throttle cable and the butterfly is closed all the way. The reason I am leaning toward the IAC is that I have watched my idle steadily increase while sitting at a redlight witout me even touching the gas, from 1100 to 1500, to 2000, which to me doesn't really sound like something that is simply stuck, or does it? I will look it all over again soon, and I really do appreciate the help.

Having looked at the "how to clean your IAC" link, I know that there are several different throttle bodies available, and IIRC, there were 2 for the 3.4. Are there any advantages/differences that I should be aware of if I were to go with a used throttle body? Are there any model-year specific changes that would prevent interchangeability from say a 2002 3.4 to a 1999 version (Bolt pattern changes, upper intake changes, need for altering ECU settings, etc?)

[Cuthroat72]

Having played with it some more, I have discovered that the culprit, it appears, is the middle linkage on the throttle body itself. The outermost, and by this I am referring to the one closest to the radiator, is the one actuated by the gas pedal. The innermost (closest to the throttle body) is the one actuated by the cruise control. The middle one, and here's the kicker, is not connected to anything on my 4runner, and yet this is where the trouble is coming from. What was the original intention for this connection? I know there is a hole for a cable to attach to it, but there's no cable. This is also the one that makes contact with the little plastic, spring-loaded thing that looks like it has a film canister cap on it.

I have hosed it down with lubricant, and it's still wanting to stick. With the way it looks like the cable would connect, it appears that it was originally supposed to pull the throttle closed. Is my truck missing an integral part, or did some come from the factory that way? As soon as the truck cools off enough for me to get in there and take it all apart, I am going to yank the throttle body (from here on out I am going to abbreviate Throttle Body as TB)off and hose every linkage and pivot down and let it soak on the table (again), and work the lube into it really well and cross my fingers. In the meantime, if anyone has any answers as to my missing "link", I am curious to hear what's not there.

[Cuthroat72]

Alright. Had it apart, put it back together, and I have noticed something. The shaft that the butterfly is on has some play in it. I can get it to idle down 2 ways now. The aforementioned slamming of the gas pedal to redline, and now, if I grab ahold of the cable linkage "cage" on the front of the throttle body and apply gentle pressure in the general direction of the radiator, it will idle down. There is some evidence of scoring on the firewall side of the throttle body "aperture" (aka the hole the air goes in that the butterfly is in) where the butterfly is making contact with the transmission-side wall of the throttle body. This leads me to believe that the throttle body itself is worn out. There are NO engine codes, and there is about an 8th of an inch of slack in the throttle shaft from front to rear.

In my mediocre mind, all I can think of are 3 options:
1. Throttle body rebuild or a shim (if they make such a thing)
2. Reman TB/used TB
3. Performance TB with a bigger hole for possibly more power.
Obviously these are ranked in order of (hopefully) expense from least to greatest. I would like to hear what you guys have to say about it.

Thoughts?

Having looked at the link on the first page (thanks again, MTL) for more detail, it would appear that the connectors are different between the 01 and 02 model years for the IAC. I am guessing that this would mean I need to look for a TB that is from the 96-01 era, so I got that question answered...

[MTL_4runner]

Alright. Had it apart, put it back together, and I have noticed something. The shaft that the butterfly is on has some play in it. I can get it to idle down 2 ways now. The aforementioned slamming of the gas pedal to redline, and now, if I grab ahold of the cable linkage "cage" on the front of the throttle body and apply gentle pressure in the general direction of the radiator, it will idle down. There is some evidence of scoring on the firewall side of the throttle body "aperture" (aka the hole the air goes in that the butterfly is in) where the butterfly is making contact with the transmission-side wall of the throttle body. This leads me to believe that the throttle body itself is worn out. There are NO engine codes, and there is about an 8th of an inch of slack in the throttle shaft from front to rear.

In my mediocre mind, all I can think of are 3 options:
1. Throttle body rebuild or a shim (if they make such a thing)
2. Reman TB/used TB
3. Performance TB with a bigger hole for possibly more power.
Obviously these are ranked in order of (hopefully) expense from least to greatest. I would like to hear what you guys have to say about it.

Thoughts?

Having looked at the link on the first page (thanks again, MTL) for more detail, it would appear that the connectors are different between the 01 and 02 model years for the IAC. I am guessing that this would mean I need to look for a TB that is from the 96-01 era, so I got that question answered...


I had a hunch, but yes, your TB is defintely worn and needs to be replaced.
Honestly I'd just get a used one and go that route myself.

Something like this should work fine for you:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-Toyota-T100-5VZ-FE-3-4-Throttle-body-with-sensors_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14 QQhashZitem2556372dbeQQitemZ160360246718QQptZMotor sQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[Cuthroat72]

That's my intention. I am hoping I can find something low mileage. There's a Toyota specific junkyard near where I am from. I have gotten several odds and ends (tie rods, etc.) down there. Only problem is that I am 2 hours away from there right now, and time is at a premium. I may have to see if I can get my brother to run down there and look around and pick one up for me if they've got one.

Thanks again, MTL, et al. So far all I am out on this deal is a can of TB cleaner, MAF cleaner, and some WD-40.... I (and my wallet) appreciate all the help.

[MTL_4runner]

That's my intention. I am hoping I can find something low mileage. There's a Toyota specific junkyard near where I am from. I have gotten several odds and ends (tie rods, etc.) down there. Only problem is that I am 2 hours away from there right now, and time is at a premium. I may have to see if I can get my brother to run down there and look around and pick one up for me if they've got one.

Thanks again, MTL, et al. So far all I am out on this deal is a can of TB cleaner, MAF cleaner, and some WD-40.... I (and my wallet) appreciate all the help.


This site may help you find a good used TB a little closer to you:
http://www.car-part.com/

[Cuthroat72]

Is there any difference between the throttle bodies off a manual trans vs. automatic trans?

[DHC6twinotter]

The throttle body for an automatic would have an extra cable attachement point for the transmission kick down cable. Other than that, I dunno.

Edit: Vehicles with cruise control may also have an extra cable attachment point. My 2nd gen has 3 cables going to the TB.

Not sure how a 3rd gen is set up, but I would assume it's the same as a 2nd gen.

[Cuthroat72]

The funny thing about it is, that my throttle body has 3 places for cables to hook in, and I am assuming that the one that is not used is the one for a automatic kick down. Is there a difference in the electronics (TPS sensor, IAC?)
Thanks for the reply DHC6.

[DHC6twinotter]

Sorry, I missed the part about it being a 5 speed. :thumbup:

[Cuthroat72]

No worries man. I am one of the "fortunate few" in that regard. Unfortunately the rareness of my truck might make this a VERY expensive fix. I went down to Toyota today and got a price for a new one, and it's not cheap. The guy quoted me $928.27. You ever get that feeling like you've been kicked in the crotch? Talk about selling the truck for gas money :spit:

[DHC6twinotter]

99 4Runner auto throttle body:
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1999_TOYOTA_4RUNNER_VZN180L-GKPGKA_2211.3.html?hl=22210

99 4Runner 5 speed throttle body:
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1999_TOYOTA_4RUNNER_VZN185L-GKMGKA_2211.html

The IAC has the same part number. The throttle body has different part numbers, but I dunno if that is because of some differences with brackets and cruise control, or something else.

http://www.toyodiy.com/ is a great resource for cross referencing parts. You can plug in your VIN number, and it'll tell you exactly what you need. I use it all the time for the dumb swap ideas I have. :hillbill:

[Cuthroat72]

Many multiples of "thank you"s! :clap: I am hoping maybe I'll get lucky and find a used TB, but as Manuals are rare, I am afraid that watering hole may be fished out. I really don't want to spend 1/3 of the bluebook value on my truck for just one part. It's enough to make you start thinking about how much it's going to start costing down the line. Here's hoping....

[MTL_4runner]

Many multiples of "thank you"s! :clap: I am hoping maybe I'll get lucky and find a used TB, but as Manuals are rare, I am afraid that watering hole may be fished out. I really don't want to spend 1/3 of the bluebook value on my truck for just one part. It's enough to make you start thinking about how much it's going to start costing down the line. Here's hoping....


I actually have a manual throttle body on the 3.4L I have sitting in the garage. It came off a 1998 (I believe) but I just checked and it seems like the tacoma it was on didn't have cruise control. I compared it to the one on my motor and it seems like you should be able to use a throttle body from either an auto or a manual but be careful to get one that does have a cruise control hookup on it. My suggestion would be just to go for a used TB from a 99-00 auto truck. It's not going to affect the functionality of the TB if you don't hook up the auto kickdown cable. All other aspects (TPS, IAC, etc) should be fully compatible with your current one.

[Cuthroat72]

MTL, I actually got hooked up by some of the guys at a local shop. They went deep in the books and found one off a manual transmission. It's a little bit more spendy, but it's on the way. The thing that threw me was that Toyota shows 2 different part numbers. I was getting ready to get all experimental, but I don't want to throw more money at it than I have to.

Thanks again for everybody's help. I will post up when the New TB arrives and I get it put on.

[Cuthroat72]

So after receiving the wrong throttle body (last friday) and being shipped another one (today) I finally got a throttle body on the 4Runner. AND..... 4Runner won't idle below 1500! Yay! Another project taking steps in the wrong direction. Therefore, I am more than a little bit peeved. I know my throttle body (original) is on the way out. I know my newer throttle body is in decent shape, but I need a little luck here. I went thru (yet again) and started pulling off vacuum lines, and everything sucks just fine. When I pull the tube off the bottom of the IAC, it idles down to where it should, but it surges, like a cam that has a lope to it, about a minute later, it compensates and idles up to 1100 again. Put the hose back on, and 1500 RPM. The hose off the back of the rubber grommet for the intake, idles down to where it should, 30 secs to a minute: right back to 1100. Hook it up again, 1500. I am so over this. Sooooo, my options.

1. Shuck the newer throttle body, put the stock on, and go to the shop.
2. Keep the newer throttle body, put the stock on, and go to the shop, and let them figure it out. I am throwing NO CODES, and it's not even giving me the slightest hint as to what's wrong. I am ready to make it someone else's problem. The downside: nothing else to drive on my 25 minute commute.
3. Drop back, punt, and pray for a miracle.

HELP!

Does ANYBODY have ANY IDEA as to what I am NOT CHECKING? I have rationalized this as much as I can, and I have spent all the time I want to on this.

[MTL_4runner]

You can take it to a shop but it's likely going to cost a fair amount for diagnosis to get it and there's no guarantee they won't just start replacing parts to find the issue. I know these things can be frustrating but it will feel great when you finally figure out the problem.


Back to the issue at hand......The only other thing I can think of that might make it idle very high is the coolant temp sensor. I've attached the test from the FSM for you to check it.

I also want to make sure that you swapped the entire Throttle body and didn't swap over your "cleaned" IAC. If so you should swap back the IAC's and see if you get any change.

Finally the last possibility could have to do with the AC idle up circuit but we can tackle that after the rest have been eliminated.


Here's another thread which is very similar to your case:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=786683

[MTL_4runner]

Just for posterity I wanted to post these for people finding this thread later.

The first shows the dashpot indicating the throttle body came from a manual transmission (w/cruise).

The second shows the operation of the IAC.

[Cuthroat72]

Thanks Jamie. The number for today is 2000. I did change the entire throttle body.I will check the sensor first chance I get which may not be today. I am seriously begining to suspect vacuum. What happens to the amount of suction as the revs (RPMs) increase? This whole rev it to redline and it normalizes situation has me curious.

[MTL_4runner]

Thanks Jamie. The number for today is 2000. I did change the entire throttle body.I will check the sensor first chance I get which may not be today. I am seriously begining to suspect vacuum. What happens to the amount of suction as the revs (RPMs) increase? This whole rev it to redline and it normalizes situation has me curious.


If you have a vacuum leak then the easiest way to find it is to use a can of carb cleaner on and around vacuum hoses, TB, intake, etc (also don't forget items toward the back of the engine and the underside of the intake plenum). When you find the leak (if there is one) the idle speed will change when the carb cleaner gets ingested into the engine. Try not to get any on the hot exhaust for obvious reasons. If you have a leak, that method will will ferret it out for you.

[Cuthroat72]

I haven't gotten into the engine bay yet, and i have discovered something interesting. There's a portion of my drive where I crest a hill, and then take an exit where I go to an intersection at an underpass. This allows for a good 1/4 to 1/2 mile coast (push the clutch). In this circumstance, the engine idles erratically. It goes from 7-- to 1500 and back again 5-10 times, and by the time I stop at the light, it idles around 1050-1100. This seems odd, almost as if I am downshifting to come to a stop while depressing the brake. Does this symptom tell anybody anything about what could possibly be going on? I have also noticed a lot of soot in the line running to the back of the elbow on the intake tube. It's like a black sludge (doesn't seem like a positive thing to me). Could this have anything to do with my issue? As it stands, the original TB is performing better than the new (used) one. Should I send it back, or hold onto it if I decide to take it to the only guys I trust to work on my truck besides me? (Yes, they are more knowledgable than I am, I just can't get to them right now with my school situation)

[CJM]

Black sludge-carbon build up perhaps? Bad PCV valve?

[Cuthroat72]

I was under the impression that non-cali 3.4's didn't have a PCV? I didn't find one on my truck anyway....

[MTL_4runner]

I was under the impression that non-cali 3.4's didn't have a PCV? I didn't find one on my truck anyway....


All engines have them, perhaps you were looking in the wrong place.
It should be on the passenger side valve cover towards the front of the engine.

[Cuthroat72]

Now that I have it all resolved, I figured I would check in. Of 2 throttle bodies I received, one would work, as there were to ways to hook up the cruise control on the throttle body. After speaking with Jon, he gave me permission to swap the IAC's off those 2 TB's. The one on the correct TB was all kinds of gummed up, and the other one was like new.

It pans out like this: My stock TB= #1. One with wrong cruise control attachment= #2. Correct TB from recycler= #3

So I ended up putting IAC (#2) on TB #3, and now my truck is performing the way it should, after swapping the frankenstein TB onto my rig. My original TB would have worked, if it weren't rubbing against the bore.

Thanks again to everyone here and Jon at Graham's Auto down in Alabama. They are great when it comes to customer service, know what they are doing, and I am adding them to my list of people to contact when I need a good used part.