Time for new CV joints

[Chapman88SR5]

Both joints exploded, well at least the boots did.

Will these joints the fleabay work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370242442618&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[slosurfer]

You can buy a complete reman from autozone or similar for around $80 with your core and they will have a lifetime warranty.

If it's just your boots and you don't want to do the whole reman thing, then just buy the boot kit. More than likely, your actual joints are just fine.

[CJM]

Autozone are worth it, or the ones from advanced.. RUN AWAY from pepboys or fleabay.

[Chapman88SR5]

I figured as much.

I get a really bad, bad shake if I lock the hubs and drive.

[CJM]

Well could be a bent front driveshaft as well, I would start at the CV's tho.

[jprunner]

Check your short shafts as well, if you feel any vibration or hear any clanking you will need to replace both sides.
It is actually easier to replace the boots and the shafts all at the same time rather than replacing the boots only!

[Bob98SR5]

FYI: i just replaced my half shafts with torn boots with a *new* complete 1/2 shaft from autozone for $138 total (California)

[4x4mike]

FYI: i just replaced my half shafts with torn boots with a *new* complete 1/2 shaft from autozone for $138 total (California)


Bob, do you know if there is a huge difference in quality between factory and autozone/napa type cv's? I'm wondering if there is much difference right off the bat by just looking at them. Boot quality, smoothness, etc? I'd think factory would be the way to go but it can be very expensive.

[Bob98SR5]

Mike,

Damn, i wish i wouldve taken a side by side pic. The only noticeable thing that seemed to be missing on the Autozone one was this cup shaped metal piece (not very tall in height) that the stock one had. Since i bought new, i still have the old one which i will rebuild when i find the time to do so.

[4x4mike]

Interesting. An old one that isn't thrashed makes for a great trail spare once rebuilt. I never got around to fixing the ones on my old truck. My current ones look good but I was wondering about options.

[AxleIke]

I don't have any concrete data, but in my experience, the auto zone or other aftermarket axles are much weaker than the stockers. I've yet to break a stock axle, whereas I know of A LOT of busted aftermarket stuff.

Considering you can usually get stockers off of SAS'd trucks for 25 bucks a pair, and a rebuild will take you an afternoon, it's highly worth it.

[partsman93274]

How hard is it to replace these axles. I have a 91 4runner and everyone says to fear the cone washers. What and where are they? :headscratch:

[Crinale]

from what iv heard, its quite difficult the first time, but after that (after you've loosened the way over torqued from the factory bolts) you can do an axle in about 15 minutes or so.

[Robinhood4x4]

You'd wish the cone washers were the hardest thing about changing the axles. No, they're not that bad. They are the washers under the bolts that hold on your manual hub or ADD flange. All you do is loosen the bolts and tap on the side of the hub/flange with a mallet or hammer and brass drift. This will knock them loose. The longer they've been on there, yes the harder it is to get them out.

The hardest part about the axle change is figuring out how to get the axle to physically clear everything and get them out. Some people unbolt the lower ball joint to gain clearance. Some people remove the bumpstops and eventually wiggle it out of there. Either way, it's best to pound out some of the studs so next time it's easier to get it out.

Here's a writeup
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_openwiki&Itemid=60&id=wiki:axle_boot_repair

[Crinale]

ya, pound out the flange studs that hold the axle, and throw some grade 8 bolts in there, so things slide out easier ;)

[partsman93274]

I dove in and replaced it without removing the studs. Just took some cussing and moving the driveshaft around while underneath. It would seem that pounding on the studs would be hard on the differential internals.

[slosurfer]

I dove in and replaced it without removing the studs. Just took some cussing and moving the driveshaft around while underneath. It would seem that pounding on the studs would be hard on the differential internals.


I used a big c-clamp and a socket to press them out. :thumbup: Then I took my grinder and ground down the "ribs" (not sure what else to call them) just a bit, so that they then acted like bolts rather than getting "pressed" in. So the next time, it comes out just like a bolt would. :hillbill:

[Robinhood4x4]

"Splines"

[slosurfer]

"Splines"


:laugh: Yep, that's the word I was looking for. :laugh: