questions on wiring up rear winch

[troyboy162]

ive got a multi mount winch now and need to run power cable to the rear end of the vehicle but cant find much info on the best way to accomplish that. first off i dont think i can find cheaper then the warn kit. i looked high and low to piece my own together but for the money this kit cant be beat it seems
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ej%2BncAKtL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

but then where do i run the cable to the back?

-i have a body lift so i could run it right down the top of the frame, but thats pretty exposed

- i could run it though the cab and out the rear vent but i dont think it will tuck away into any of the trim areas and will likely run run under the carpet.


whatda ya guys think is a good solution? im leaning toward just zip tieing it to the top of the frame with a billion zip ties as of now


also the long run of cable to the rear has me wanting a fuse for safety. nothing too hard to figure out but hardly anyone seems to be running fuses so i might just be parinoid

[Scuba]

Before I read the frame part I was thinking to myself, just down the frame. Going through the cab will be a major pita IMO. Maybe you can find some wire clips that bolt or screw on, and then put those at the inside of the frame nearest the top. Since trying to drill a hole on the top part of the frame would be no bueno.
Oh and since you have a rear winch now, I'm staying right behind you when we go wheelin

[4x4mike]

The wires I have that run to the rear of the vehicle follow factory items. For example my rear rock lights follow the e brake cable most of the way back and then the fuel filler neck. I loomed most of it and zip tied it the entire way. After a spalsh or 2 with muddy water it'll look like it's been there forever. Guys run large gague wire to the rear inside for sound systems so maybe look at how they did it. I prefer the exterior.

As for a fuse I'd look into a resetable one like this. Problem is that you'll have to find out how much you winch uses at full load. I think some of the Warn winches can pull upwards of 450 amps. I like these but I don't think they're rating high enough.

Here (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/121146/377%20710/0/blue%20sea%207104/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=blue%20sea%207104&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=blue%20sea%207104&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=14180)

[corax]

run it along to top of the frame rail with some flex loom around it to protect from chaffing (always gotta protect yourself from chaffing :roll:). by the way, keep the ground cable as short as possible to the frame - but definately keep the wire outside the cab, there's a good chance it might get hot

as far as fuses go . . . not sure you'd be able to find one big enough. I don't know which winch you'll be running, but for example the Warn 9.5ti pulls 425 amps at full load. Maybe you could run some heavy duty car stereo circuit breakers in parallel, you can get ones like this up to 150 ammps, but I swear I saw some that were rated even higher - keep a short lenght of heavy cable with screw eyes in the glove box so you can bypass teh ckt breaker if necessary
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/media/t_hiamp_breaker.jpg

[CJM]

^ I think thats sound advice really. Personally unless you can find a breaker big enough you really cant use one-or like corax said-make a sorta bypass wire just incase.

Me, i would just buy some 1/0 gauge welding wire and some ends and go to town. Could get something similar to this for plug and play http://www.awdirect.com/ramsey-quick-connect-battery-cable-for-front-winch-mounting-5-ft-stc918n-5-aw/winch-accessories/

and here is a plug that fits it or similar http://www.awdirect.com/replacement-plug-ends-single-superior-signals-sy6325g6/jump-start-sets-accessories/

Any towing supply should be able to steer you in the right direction for the parts you need.

[troyboy162]

welp i can find fuses large enough without too much trouble but ive shot an email to Warn about there interrupt kit. specifically asking if it can be disengaged in the event the harness is shorted and drawing full amps. i really dont think it would. in fact i think it would weld itself as soon as the contacted started to part but its a funny looking little relay thingy so maybe it would work.

Scuba whens the last time me or you needed to be winched? it will be the courtesy winch for the people on the same run as us lol

these fuses should work and are pretty cheap. found the link while researching.

http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/fuse/images/anl/anl_8.gif

heres how the front end is coming along. :clap:
http://www.wow.digitalchaosgaming.com/t4r/mail.google.com.jpeg
http://www.wow.digitalchaosgaming.com/t4r/mail.google.com2.jpeg
http://www.wow.digitalchaosgaming.com/t4r/mail.google.com3.jpeg

pics fixed

[CJM]

^ pics no work

[Obi..]

Ditto Corax's post..all available through any stereo shop or supply. Kenny and Jim at Auto Sound turned me onto these along with the large capacity wiring..

Pretty much what I am running, a pair of 80 amp Stingers for now: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HXN82Q
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41iiLLiLMSL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

I'll be switching to these in a few months when we upgrade everything on the EbbTide, available for a marine application: http://www.amazon.com/STINGER-SCBM150-Marine-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B002LARRTO/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1257726042&sr=1-8
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51NpBgY65kL._SS500_.jpg

[troyboy162]

you use those for your winch? dont 80 amp ones pop when the winch grunts?

[Obi..]

Parallel splits the load, no issues yet, but also why I am going ahead and switching to the 150 Marine model to avoid the risk and cut out the extra line to have to use later if I need to bypass the circuit.

[troyboy162]

sounds like a good solution but i think i may try a single cheap fuse for 30 bucks. just gotta figure out what rating to get and how long it will take to blow. it all may get too complicated as i look into it. me running a 150 amp fuse so that they pop quickly at 500+ amps may be more trouble then its worth.

[Scuba]

Scuba whens the last time me or you needed to be winched? it will be the courtesy winch for the people on the same run as us lol


Uhh, Big Bear... Was it aug 30 ?
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a168/Sycosurfer150/DSCN1202.jpg

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a168/Sycosurfer150/DSCN1221.jpg

Twice in one day :rofl: :tongueout:

It's ok, I got tugged yesterday, But only to save my passenger side from a buttload of body damage

[troyboy162]

tugged!!! tugged!!!! there been no winchings lol

[Crinale]

the biggest difference is winching is more controlled, and you dont need another rig to do it ;)

[strykersd]

ive got a multi mount winch now and need to run power cable to the rear end of the vehicle but cant find much info on the best way to accomplish that. first off i dont think i can find cheaper then the warn kit. i looked high and low to piece my own together but for the money this kit cant be beat it seems
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ej%2BncAKtL._SL500_AA280_.jpg


I'm pretty sure you can piece a system together cheaper then that. I used a lot of those parts back when I built robots and you can find them pretty cheap. All you need is some wire, a solenoid and a Anderson Power Products genderless connector (they used to sponsor my robots!).

One place that'll have everything you need is The Robot Marketplace, http://robotcombat.com/store.html
Here's the same connector that comes with the Warn kit - http://robotcombat.com/products/0C-PP175.html
Then you just need to pick which solenoid you need then stop by a car audio place for the wire.

If you're not sure on what solenoid to get, you could always just by the solenoid that's already in your winch as a replacement part from Warn's website. And if you really wanted to save money you could skip the solenoid and just use a large boat switch. Just some ideas...