Need p/n for knock sensor wire harness

[jrock]

Hey there, Ive got a P0330 Cel code(ecu now in safe mode)Ive read that 99% of the time this is caused by the wire harness going bad from heat exposure.

Ive also read that its basically just one electrical wire...toyota parts guy says its about $15 after forum discount(he also said to just replace w/$2 autozone wire and save my $!!!). But there is also another knock sensor wire(as opposed to harness) for $45, $22ish after discount.

Anyone replace these or familiar?

thanks.

Ive got a 98 4runner; v6/sc/4x

[slosurfer]

welcome to UY!

Sorry, I can't help much with that problem, since I'm not familiar with those yet. But,.. if you just need part numbers, http://toyodiy.com is an awesome resource for finding part numbers. You can plug in your vin number and go through the categories and look at exploded views to find part numbers.

I'm sure others will chime in soon though with advice about that knock sensor wire. :thumbup:

[mastacox]

I just replaced mine when I went through the top-end rebuild. The Toyota OEM one isn't very expensive (only $23 from ToyotaPartSales.com, which is where I got all my parts), that's the one I would go with.

- Knock sensor wire (OEM Toyota P/N 82219-34010)
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/mastacox/Engine%20Rebuild/Toyota%20Parts/KnockSensorWire1of1.jpg

It's pretty hard to get to since you have to take the upper and lower instake manifolds off, do you know what you're getting yourself into?

You can see the wire in this picture:
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/mastacox/Engine%20Rebuild/Day%202/IMG_6852.jpg

[jrock]

thanks...I just found your thread and pics and was bot to post that I found it....LOL!

but, there is still this other knock sensor wire p/n that i found on another thread relating to the p0330 code.

90980-07381 $15.00..harness(this is the one the toy parts guy said to just replace with any electrical wire from autozone etc.) p/n is labled harness altho seems to be jst a wire.


This one looks more like a harness to me tho and is more expensive so that makes sense.
Knock sensor wire (OEM Toyota P/N 82219-34010)

[mastacox]

Well from what I have heard the harness under the intake manifolds is the one that goes bad since it cooks in there next to the block. I'm not sure what the other wire you found is, I'd have to see where it is in the FSM.

[jrock]

After looking at the FSM, Im only seeing one knock sensor wire...which is the same as the one pictured in this thread above...which is under the manifold and next to the h2O bypass pipe...so I ordered that. $44 retail, $22 after CT discount...sean at 619.270.3137 for deals on parts!

Hopefully thats the fix..going to take the risk of just replacing the wire first. I think I only have to remove s/c, fuel rail, and it under there on top of the head right? So i should not have to buy any gaskets...i think.

[mastacox]

Hopefully thats the fix..going to take the risk of just replacing the wire first. I think I only have to remove s/c, fuel rail, and it under there on top of the head right? So i should not have to buy any gaskets...i think.


You'll have to remove the supercharger (which means removing the intake stuff), the fuel rails, the lower intake, and possibly the timing cover as well. It's a real PITA for one little wire.

There is an MLS gasket between the supercharger and the lower intake which I usually just reuse, and there is a set of gaskets between the lower intake and the heads which will hopefully be in good enough shape to reuse although there are no guarantees. The heads stay on so no need for head gaskets, but you might consider pulling your head covers to look at your valve train if you're feeling ambitious.

[mastacox]

The gaskets for the lower intake are in the bottom right of this picture. They have a set of o-rings that I assume seal a coolant passage, that would be the part that might prevent re-use IMO.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/mastacox/Engine%20Rebuild/Toyota%20Parts/GasketSet1of1.jpg

[Obi..]

The gaskets for the lower intake are in the bottom right of this picture. They have a set of o-rings that I assume seal a coolant passage, that would be the part that might prevent re-use IMO.


*Absolutely correct, the silicone type material either separates and stays stuck there when you pull the unit, or is beyond reuse often. Replace it and have piece of mind.

[jrock]

I may do this mod while im elbows deep into it: http://customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90958

[DHC6twinotter]

Have you tried cleaning the connector? I'm not familiar with the 3rd gens, but on the 2nd gens, people have solved knock sensor codes just by cleaning the connector a bit. Might be worth looking into before you tear things apart....

My $.02.

BTW, welcome!

[jrock]

Well, uv got to tear it apart to get to it even if you were just to clean it and its inexpensive. Ill just be replacing it. Still may do the splicing mod first tho(2 knock sensor wires of the ecu). this will tell me if its a sensor or the wire harness thats bad.

[jrock]

Well i realized i only bot 1 of the lower intake manifold gaskets with said o rings over the phone yesterday. So I called today to get the second gskt. They then realized they sold/mailed me the upper plenum gasket yesterday which was $18. The two lwr mani gaskets came out to $132. stupid $15 wire harness really sucks :(

[mastacox]

They then realized they sold/mailed me the upper plenum gasket yesterday which was $18. The two lwr mani gaskets came out to $132. stupid $15 wire harness really sucks :(


Tell me about it, I didn't know they were quite that expensive though. When I did my top-end rebuild I bought the full rebuild gasket set which came out to like $450 for everything, including all of the intake gaskets, head gaskets, exhaust gaskets, etc. etc.

[MTL_4runner]

but, there is still this other knock sensor wire p/n that i found on another thread relating to the p0330 code.

90980-07381 $15.00..harness(this is the one the toy parts guy said to just replace with any electrical wire from autozone etc.) p/n is labled harness altho seems to be jst a wire.


This one looks more like a harness to me tho and is more expensive so that makes sense.
Knock sensor wire (OEM Toyota P/N 82219-34010)

The part number Brian gave you is the right one for the knock sensor wire, see here:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=2241.msg27277#msg27277

There are tons of pics in that thread too which should get you through anything you'll come across when doing the engine top end.

New sensor wire installed:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/mtl_4runner/Head%20Gasket/HeadGasketReassembly032Large.jpg

Pay attention to how the sensor wire is routed:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&action=dlattach;topic=2241.0;attach=958;image

Do not try and repair it, the harness was toast when I took mine apart too so I replaced it. Yes, the Toyota gasket kit is expensive but you can tell the difference from aftermarket although I might consider aftermarket gaskets on everything except for the head gasket itself and the valve seals. I got both an aftermarket set and a genuine Toyota set and while there was a difference, I think both would have done the job just fine.

[jrock]

sorry for the ingnorance, but will I have to drain the coolant prior to taking off the lower intake manifold?

And what is the tool i can use to test the knock sensors? ohm reader?

Getting ready to tackle this job in the am!

thx.

[MTL_4runner]

Sent you a PM but here's the answer to your questions:

Yes, you should drain the coolant before you remove the lower portion of the intake because the coolant passages do run through it. No, you don't need to drain the oil for this procedure. Yes, you should be able to get to the wire without disturbing any of the timing belt assy except the timing belt cover.

Knock sensors rarely go bad, 99.99% of the time damage to the knock sensor wire harness (from heat) is to blame for any malfunction. The only test you can do with the knock sensors is to test for continuity with a multimeter between the terminal and the sensor body, there should be no continuity between them. If there is, the sensor is bad and must be replaced.

[jrock]

so as i unscrewed the rad cap prior to taking out the drain plug this caused pressure to surge coolant up thru one of the tubes disconnected on top of lower manifold...splashing some coolant into one of the holes where the injector goes(they are all out/also noticed Ill need to replace all the rubber injector grommets at this time)! I quickly put the rad cap back on, then pinched that tube off before draining.

So...lil splash of coolant in the top end now. Should I drain my oil?

ended up just vaccuming it out as it was just sitting on top of the valve.

[jrock]

well got as far as getting all the manifold bolts out...plumbing disconnected. 3 hours, taking time to label hoses/bolts,etc. Stopped short as Ill need to buy a 10m hex socket to get the idler pulley off so I can get to the last timing cover #1 bolt. With all other 5 bolts out I may be able to pull it back far enough to get mani out..., so may be ok without taking idler off unless Ill need to take off timing belt cover #2...which then means timing belt comes off right?

Last bolt is hidden behind the idler pulley so i have to put the socketless socketwrench in the front of the pully and pry it left(as you do to get the belt off-when s/c'd) while trying to undo the hex. Im assuming taking that bracket off is how you dismantle the idler pulley...FSM states 10m is needed and thats what fits- rather than undoing the nuts in the front...?

hex would not budge with y tool dang it!

Got to find some new injector o rings...only need the middle big ones. Should of got extras from URD when I got my injectors way back when.

[mastacox]

well got as far as getting all the manifold bolts out...plumbing disconnected. 3 hours, taking time to label hoses/bolts,etc. Stopped short as Ill need to buy a 10m hex socket to get the idler pulley off so I can get to the last timing cover #1 bolt. With all other 5 bolts out I may be able to pull it back far enough to get mani out..., so may be ok without taking idler off unless Ill need to take off timing belt cover #2...which then means timing belt comes off right?

You shouldn't need to take the No.2 cover off, but the top cover probably does. You woulnd't need to remove the timing belt even if both covers had to come off, but you would have to remove the crank pulley.



Last bolt is hidden behind the idler pulley so i have to put the socketless socketwrench in the front of the pully and pry it left(as you do to get the belt off-when s/c'd) while trying to undo the hex. Im assuming taking that bracket off is how you dismantle the idler pulley...FSM states 10m is needed and thats what fits- rather than undoing the nuts in the front...?

hex would not budge with y tool dang it!

Got to find some new injector o rings...only need the middle big ones. Should of got extras from URD when I got my injectors way back when.


Yup you're taking the tensioner off correctly. I would recommend getting a set of metric hex wrench attachments (including 10mm) for a 3/8" drive ratchet. It might take some real cranking to get that bolt out if it's sezed a bit.

Here are some hex attachments at Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98229

[jrock]

Thanks, headed over there now. Then maybe off to RC engineering(30 min from me) for the o rings to replace on injectors cuz dealer dont have them for couple days, napas=spec order 3-5 days.

[jrock]

Finally got the mani out lil while ago. fig out the back wire harness was connected to pass side of block, freeing this up allowed me to get the backend of the mani out. Did not have to take timing cover off, only 5 of 6 bolts. Then cover can be pulled back enough.

Tested the knock sen wire and thought it was bad but i tested it wrong...it actually is showing zeros for both sensors on my ohm reader=continuity=good. Pulled the knock sensors off and they showed no continuity=good. One of the knock sensors clip structure is cracked,probably from the wire pulling on it but that shld not effect it.

I really wanted it to be the wire, maybe it only happens when its hot? relieved it not a knock sensor(as far as my tests show) cuz they are expensive!

But, if its not the wire, not the knock sensors, what else would give me the knock sensor codes. They would always come right back on after clearing them. Mileage is down, not burning oil, has been driving sluggishly while ecu in the protective over retarded timing mode.

any thoughts? My good friend Doug says id better just replace everything, harness and sensors. They range at napa from $289 delphi to $159 nippondenso

so i heated up the wire hanreess w/blow dryer to see how ohmmeter tested. showed .4-.8 after couple min. Imagine this # wld go up the hotter it got ie on engine blk,oven,heat gun. So does higher # than 0 mean resistance of electron to move=bad wire?

[jrock]

Finally got some time and injector o rings to start reinstalling. So the bypass water pipe is sealed by silicone, connects to block etc...that forms a gasket.

Toyota says they use/sell "special silicone-$18 for this.

Should I just use some permatex?

[Seanz0rz]

yeah just make sure its rated for high temps on an engine. im down to using ultra copper on everything now days anyway. grey or black should do i think (cant remember the specs off the top of my head)

[MTL_4runner]

Finally got some time and injector o rings to start reinstalling. So the bypass water pipe is sealed by silicone, connects to block etc...that forms a gasket.

Toyota says they use/sell "special silicone-$18 for this.

Should I just use some permatex?


Yes, permatex works fine.
Clean the surfaces well with brake cleaner before applying it.

[jrock]

Finished the job yesterday...All went well except for breaking off the end of the back mani bolt that s/c slides onto!!!!!! My chilton manual said 160lb torque...my torgue wrench maxes out at 150 so i set it there and BANG! No that was not a gun shot....it was the nut flying away with the top of the bolt inside it. Still have not found it! Needless to say I did not use torque w. on others and nvr did in past 3 times ive removed/installed...thgt id do it "right" this time.

So Looks like ill run it that way for a while. Guessing Ill have to take the s/c off and hopefully I can just tap a new bolt in there while the mani is still installed!? lucky its not in da block.

BTW: no more CEL relating to Knock sensors..power is back!

But, it fired up and ran really lean. Produced an O2 sensor CEL...too lean etc. So I hooked up labtop and sure enough, my fuel trims were super high. Where it previously idled at say a 9.6(R4 software) it now likes a 10.2 Not sure why the drastic change?

And my knock sensor wire routes differently than MTL's, connector is on top next to 1st injector whereas his is down-left, etc.

[mastacox]

There's no way he torque spec on that bolt is 160 ft-lbs. I would say it's max 60 ft-lbs, I'll look it up in my FSM. EDIT- Yup, all of the bolts holding the air intake chamber assembly on the intake manifold are specced at 13 ft-lbs!!! It looks like they mixed up in-lbs with ft-lbs- 13 ft-lbs is approximately 160 in-lbs.

As for the lean condition, did you reset your ECU yet?

[jrock]

My chilton does say 160 in/lbs. So im most likely the idiot that did not realize the difference...torgue wrench reads "foot" on one side and "pounds on other. Then NM and MKP on other. So which one is in/lbs?
yes pulled the fuse before refiring.


Oh and what a DRAAAAG! Got the 2 knock codes again while driving to work. So was not the wire harness:(

time to tear it down again, this time replace sensors(even tho they tested fine w/OHM meter) and retorque everthing correctly.

[mastacox]

My chilton does say 160 in/lbs. So im most likely the idiot that did not realize the difference...torgue wrench reads "foot" on one side and "pounds on other. Then NM and MKP on other. So which one is in/lbs?


Yikes! :ban:

It sounds like your torque wrench doesn't have in-lb graduations on it. Just dial it to 13 ft-lbs and you're good.

[MTL_4runner]

Ouch, on the broken bolt. For comparison the truck's lugnuts only use 80 ft-lbs so you were lucky you just snapped the bolt and didn't have more damage than that. It pays to be careful with the torque units.

Sorry to hear you need to tear it down again, but it will certainly go alot faster this time around. I suspect the knock sensor with the broken connector will probably be your culprit. If you do buy new sensors make sure you use only (Nippon) Denso brand sensors.

[jrock]

Well, I called texas toyota of Grapevine..Said to get my vin which will tell me which brand sensor my car takes...after vin inputed, both brands still come up. When i had sensor out i did not see any markings on it. So I then went to Napaonline and found this:

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Results.aspx?Ntt=knock%20sensor&Ntk=Keyword&N=599001+101998+50070+2070015

Mine do have the indented line as the matsu's have as opposed to the normal looking denso's. Parts guy said he did not know how to figure out which one my truck should have before I noticed this visual difference.

Why do u say densos?

First he said they were $195, told him napa=169, he asked if im out of state...yes, ok $139 plus $13 ship.
oh and then thers the $40 chevy sensors, guys had success w/they look good now but again, not really interested in replacing those-w.my luck they may not work:)

MTL_, i fixed that sensor cap lockon deal with some sensor safe permatex...cured for 24 hrs b4 reinstall...the sensor part was never loose just the plastic piece. im just surprised Im getting both codes. i guess that it makes sense that they would have the same lifespan. 147K

BTW at cruising 65mph etc OBD displays 30 timing adv, 10 at idle. Idle seems normal not sure bot 30 at cruise...anyone else s/c that can check theirs? I heard these knock codes cause comp to go into safe mode=over advancing timing since no knock data feedback? thx.