4x4mike's e-locker retrofit

[4x4mike]

When I was looking for a 4runner 2 years ago I was looking for one with a locker. I know everyone wants one but I settled for a green highlander 5 speed instead. The one I bought was actually the only 5 speed I found within 250 miles. I lucked out finding a '99 with only 84K for $10K.

Anyways fast forward to this years Pismo jamboree and me acquiring a 3rd gen 4runner housing from Bob.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07614.jpg

This housing is the one from his 4runner. He had bought a housing, made the modifications to that one so his truck wasn't down for long. Anyways he hooked me up and here I am. The housing had some rust on it so I had to take the wire wheel to it.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07616.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07623.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07628.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07633.jpg

After I got it painted and cleaned up it was time to find a locker.

[Obi..]

*Going to go ahead and brace up the link mounts at the same time?

[4x4mike]

Fast forward to 2 days ago. I found a guy on CL selling a third member in an ad that was 2 sentences long and had no pictures or price. I called him and he said he got the 3rd member from a friend as payment for helping him with an axle swap. Turns out he had what I wanted (4.10 gears) so I made an offer. When I got there he had a wrapped up third member that took him close to 5 minutes to unwrap. When he finally finished I was looking at an almost new locker. The thing had gear oil on it but it was super clean, zero dirt/mud, no rust, and $250. I gave him the cash and ran.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07712.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07713.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07716.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07717.jpg

What do you think of the gear pattern? I was a little rushed when I took these pictures and haven't had much time to look at it much. I kind of wished he had the ecu but nonetheless. Once I get a gasket I'm grinding away on that housing.

[4x4mike]

*Going to go ahead and brace up the link mounts at the same time?


What do you mean? Do you have any pictures for examples? Wasn't planning on it but since I have this thing sitting on my bench...

[Scuba]

You could always send a pic to zuk and see what he thinks about the paint pattern on the gears..

Can't wait to see that thing done with.

[4x4mike]

You could always send a pic to zuk and see what he thinks about the paint pattern on the gears..

Can't wait to see that thing done with.


I'm not in a huge hurry but now that I have the 3rd it'll come together quicker. I'm waiting on the gasket, studs and and get but I guess I could grind and weld the housing that thing installed and worry about wiring it later.

[Obi..]

What do you mean? Do you have any pictures for examples? Wasn't planning on it but since I have this thing sitting on my bench...


I wish I did, and I've yet to have to pay any attention to mine. It's a bigger issue after heavier use or time where the mounts on the rear differential start to fracture/tear at the front corners, even sometimes the rear. The trick is a 2" long section of pipe, (4 for each mount) cut to about a (IIRC 15 degree) wedge then shaped to fit up to the corner of the mount and tie in the two side plates of the corner of the mount. The reason for the round tube instead of say square stock or plate is it distributes any forces out along the surface better.

IE: Imagine the downtube of the Turner here is your link tower..make sense?
http://www.mtbtrailreview.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/turner-5-spot-headtube.jpg

[Obi..]

Oh, BTW, it would be a sweet UY karma thing to maybe keep the "Team Differential" program going. That way whoever else has a 3rd gen and is going to do the same you two did they can...

Ahh, you get it, kind of a "Pay it forward" cheesy thing but fun to consider.

[4x4mike]

Thought about it but I've found someone who wants my housing. I'm of course assuming I don't botch Bobs and have to mod mine.

[YotaFun]

Oh, BTW, it would be a sweet UY karma thing to maybe keep the "Team Differential" program going. That way whoever else has a 3rd gen and is going to do the same you two did they can...

Ahh, you get it, kind of a "Pay it forward" cheesy thing but fun to consider.


That is a good idea.
I botched mine when I did it and I am getting another one.
Once I get that one built correctly I am going to switch everything over, fix and build my old one so who ever gets it just needs to throw there third and shafts in bolt everything up and go.

[Obi..]

One thing that occured to me and maybe it's b/c I need to compare the non e-locked housing versus an equipped one is that usually Toyota is all about synergy. In other words, they do things ahead to make it easier later on. WHen the e-locker was released, why they didn't just begin to produce the housing as a single type unit, in other words, with the cutout already there and just make a block off plate piece for non equipped vehicles. That way should a dealership wish to do the upgrade it would have been a simple bolt-in affair. Then again, what do I know, right? :laugh:

[Crinale]

that would have been possible if they even used the same axle... the elocker equipped axles are the same 8" v6 axles from the 2nd gen 4runners, while non e-locker axle is the same as the tacos... still an 8", but not compatible (sometimes mistakenly called the 8.25")

[2ndGen]

Taco's have leaf spings and 4R's have coil spings, so even the 3rd member housings are the same, the axle housing part are different between them at least on the spring perch part.

[Seanz0rz]

taco axle housings are not the same as 4runner axle housings, not to mention the bolt pattern on elocked 4runners is significantly different than the bolt pattern on a standard 8" third. there would be no way to interchange them with out creating a new non locked third. im guessing it was cheaper to make an elocker housing and either weld 4runner brackets or taco spring perches on it depending on application than it was to redesign the third for the entire 4runner line.

[4x4mike]

That is a good idea.
I botched mine when I did it and I am getting another one.
Once I get that one built correctly I am going to switch everything over, fix and build my old one so who ever gets it just needs to throw there third and shafts in bolt everything up and go.


How did you botch yours? Just interested so I know what to look for.

[YotaFun]

That is a good idea.
I botched mine when I did it and I am getting another one.
Once I get that one built correctly I am going to switch everything over, fix and build my old one so who ever gets it just needs to throw there third and shafts in bolt everything up and go.


How did you botch yours? Just interested so I know what to look for.


Having the axle in the truck on a lift instead of on the ground
and oh yeah....
REMEMBER YOUR E-LOCKER GASKET!!!

Even though you will be using RTV, for the love of god have your gasket as a template.
I didn't and kind eye'd the hole, they came out "ok" but in the end its a *&%^^% to get in and out and some studs are coming out (didn't have the propper tap on me either wow I feel like a dumb ^%$# for that....)

So just make sure you have everything you need, make sure you have all measurments out.
I know guys have mentioned that it still doesn't always come out perfect, but i figure if I have an axle on the side to work with, all I will really need to do is make sure I have everything cut and drilled straight.

By any chance you change the seal while you were in there with that new axle, might want to do that just since you have it apart, the seals are only like $7 a piece from napa....

[slosurfer]

^^^Hey, didn't I send you an elocker gasket to use or am I thinking of someone else?

[4x4mike]

I thought the drilling and tapping would be the easy part. I've pretty much done everything else. I plan on changing the inner axle seals as well. I like the Napa ones more than the Toyota ones. The fit is snugger, there is a little labyrinth seal and the cage is coated in a loctite kind of material.

[Robinhood4x4]

The drilling and tapping is the precision part, thus the reason I don't like to use the gasket as the template. There's too much flex in the gasket and the holes are bigger than the hole you need to drill. It's hard to get find the center of the hole without eyeballing it. Plus, unless you put it on a drill press and make sure the drill bit is square to your surface, it's hard to get the drill bit lined up right. If the drill goes in crooked, then the stud will be crooked and you have to force the 3rd member over the stud.

[slosurfer]

The drilling and tapping is the precision part, thus the reason I don't like to use the gasket as the template. There's too much flex in the gasket and the holes are bigger than the hole you need to drill. It's hard to get find the center of the hole without eyeballing it. Plus, unless you put it on a drill press and make sure the drill bit is square to your surface, it's hard to get the drill bit lined up right. If the drill goes in crooked, then the stud will be crooked and you have to force the 3rd member over the stud.


Correct! I used the gasket for the notches that need to be widened and for knowing how much metal to add in that one spot. Then I used the third to mark the holes to be drilled/tapped. Still got them slightly crooked though. :shake: I think I drilled them with the third on and still got them slightly crooked, not a big deal on the shorter one, but the long stud was more of a PITA. I'm pretty sure when/if I ever go to remove the third, I may have to pull that stud to get it off. That being said, I've beat on it, and it hasn't leaked at all, so I'm happy. :)

[Robinhood4x4]

Oh that reminds me, one pitfall I had was not grinding enough of the notch out the first time. This resulted in not being able to unlock the locker because the shift fork would hit the housing.

[4x4mike]

I wasn't going to use the template as a guide to drill the holes. I was going to use it to get in the ball park and them slap the 3rd member on there. Then I was going to use the job as an excuse to buy some transfer punches. The punch will be the size of the hole in the 3rd member and have the dimple maker in the middle. Punch it and drill the hole for tap being used, I'm surprised other people don't do it this way.

[YotaFun]

^^^Hey, didn't I send you an elocker gasket to use or am I thinking of someone else?


you did, but I was already at the shop and hour a way doing the Homer D'OH!
and since it started to ice outside and the only other vehicle that was drivable at the moment was a 97 M3 I was like yeah....

I wasn't going to use the template to drill the hole like everyone is saying not to do, I was just going to use it for the cutting part, but again, I forgot it at home.

Lucky you on the leaks chris...
I have had one stud pop out already and another on its way, I practically have the bottom of the diff and motor covers in sealant that has held the leak back for now, But i hate it and I drive the truck like a ticking time bomb now till my DD gets back on the road

[Robinhood4x4]

That's exactly the way to do it and the way I improvise with drills instead of transfer punches. It would be even better to make a sleeve that guides the drill bit when you drill with the 3rd member bolted up.

[slosurfer]

I think I tried something similar. My holes seem to be centered fine, but seemed to not get it completely drilled straight since I wasn't using a drill press and nobody to let me know if I had the drill angled at all. I still got them close, but that one stud is really long, and therefore accentuates it even if you were just barely off on the angle.

[4x4mike]

I'm not all that jazzed about using my drill press. It's a nice press but the table is small and I'd have to build something to bolt on to the table to hold the housing. I'm thinking some level jack stands and my 1/2 drill that has a level in it. Nice and slow and hopefully straight. I did buy some rear diff armour though. It's flat on the outward side so I'm thinking that if I can weld it on straight I can lay the housing down 3rd member side up and it'll be flat and level (maybe brace the ends with some 2x4's) :wrenchin:

[4x4mike]

Question for those of you that have done this swap. Was the gasket template accurate for the notch that had to be cut out? I put mine on, traced it and cut on the outside of the line so I knew I would have ground out enough. Problem is The amount actually needed was twice the amount I traced. Sorry if that doesn't make sense, I'm in the process of drinking my weight in beer. Bottom line I had to grind hella and it wasn't fun. I lit 2 t-shirts on fire (had them stuffed in the pumpkin) and used about 3/4 of a grinding wheel. It seems to be enough now but I'm not totally sure. I kind of only want to do this once so I thought I'd ask. The diff is a bit heavy to hold half way in for a measurement but the fork does clear, I just had to remove a lot of material (more than about 1/4" more than the gasket called for.

Pictures

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07729.jpg

Before the grinding. In the end the final notch went past the tapped hole about a 1/16".

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07731.jpg

Another question I had was how much to weld in.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07732.jpg

It looks like quite a bit if I want the entire 3rd supported (that's a bit more than just the sealing surface). Does anyone have a picture of theirs after welding without the 3rd in?

This was on the floor (notice burnt shirt pieces)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07734.jpg

This was on the magnets I had inside the housing (along with burnt shirt)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07735.jpg

and the rest is in the housing, my table and on the work bench :shake:

I had to do most of the grinding with the garage door closed because I myself hate the sound of angle grinders grinding (so I'm sure my neighbors do) but also because there were some elders making their rounds and I wasn't in the mood for listening although I like offering them beer. Now I've got to purge this beer and hope the shirt fumes didn't screw me up for my ride in the morning.

[4x4mike]

So it looks like the guy everyone thinks is God didn't add much weld.

http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/housing6.jpg

http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/housing7.jpg

Should I be good with something like this? I was going to add more plus it looks like I ground out a lot more of a notch than he did. I'm worried it won't seal well and I don't want any leaks. Could the fact I'm using a Tacoma diff make any difference?

[Seanz0rz]

for the notch for the ring gear, i didnt do enough and now cant get my third out of the housing with out divine intervention. i also welded the area between the two welds he did, although im not positive its needed.

i used a taco diff, they are identical from taco to 4runner, though the housings arent (bracketry difference)

[slosurfer]

I don't think I had to remove as much metal as you did for that notch, I think mine looked more like that in the SS pics. Also, in his pics, that's how much I welded on mine. I made sure to put a healthy amount of RTV on when I installed it.

[4x4mike]

More weld means more surface for sealing. I guess I'll figure it out when I get to that point. With more material in there the diff would not fit in the housing.

[Seanz0rz]

ill get you some pics of mine tomorrow if i remember. i kind of remember that what weld i did besides those two studs didnt really matter

[Robinhood4x4]

Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of my housing when I did it. But I wouldn't worry about your axle leaking as long as you weld around the corners of the notch like you plan on doing. I'd say 3/8 - 1/2" of material is good enough.

[4x4mike]

Welded in a large portion today and it's looking good although I keep running into the same problem. I have not drilled any of the new holes yet and have laid the 3rd member in the housing a few times to check things. Each time it gets stuck and takes about 5 minutes to get out. My notch is fine and come to find out it's an existing stud that's holding things up. It's almost at the 12:00 position and I believe it's actually the hole. I've tried 3 different studs in it and all of them seem to get held up on the hole in the 3rd member. I have a feeling that this will just bug me as time goes on. The diff housing looks fine (no bends, etc) and the threaded holes seems fine but can't figure it out. I'm thinking sanding a bit off the no threaded portion of the stud and maybe reaming out the hole in the 3rd member a bit. What do you think? The reaming sounds like it might work but and I'd only do a little.

Another question on the studs. I don't have the long ones yet but on the short ones; which side threads into the diff? The threaded portion of the stud is different on each side (one has more threads than the other side). I don't remember from when I took them out and I can't tell from the pictures I took.

[slosurfer]

Mike, I had the same problem, one of the existings studs was slightly off which makes it tough to get on and off. I think mine was more in the 5 or 6 oclock position. ONe way to deal with it, is to remove it and then install it after the diff is on. Same goes for removal of the diff, instead of just removing the nut, you remove the whole stud.

[Robinhood4x4]

It's probably not off by too much so ovalizing the hole in the third member should be fine.

I think I put the short threads into the housing because I figured if I put the long end in then I'll have lots of extra thread sticking out the other side and that would be useless. Plus, that short end looked pretty short and I didn't want the nut to bottom out on the threads before it started engaging the third member flange.

[Seanz0rz]

:good:

ill try to snap a pic tomorrow for you. im already clean and dont feel like crawling under the truck again :drink:

[slosurfer]

I'm pretty sure I put the short side threads into the housing as well. :thumbup:

[corax]

definately keeping an eye on this as I'll being dealing with the same issues over Thanksgiving if Marlin can get my parts to me - 10 days and they still haven't even shipped my parts . . . .

[YotaFun]

definately keeping an eye on this as I'll being dealing with the same issues over Thanksgiving if Marlin can get my parts to me - 10 days and they still haven't even shipped my parts . . . .


whats ca getting from marlin? gears?

[4x4mike]

So it looks like short side in the housing, thanks. I think I'm going to slightly ovalize the hole and go from there. Maybe a little sanding on the stud mid section and I'll call it good. I got my tap all cleaned up and ready to go, just have to find some time. Plus I'm waiting for Rafa as I need to order some parts.

[paddlenbike]

Regarding the notch, it appears from the photos I have on my computer that I cut about 2/3 of the way through the existing stud hole. You can see it a little in this pic (near the fingers in the photo)
http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/elocker/lots-o-room1.jpg

[Seanz0rz]

yeah i didnt have too much of an issue with the notch. my problem was the notch for the ring gear. i didnt make it big enough to clear the bolts on the ring gear, so mine is next to impossible to remove.

[4x4mike]

Yeah I've read that you don't have to do anything with the notches for the ring gear but mine get's caught up there. I'm going to be taking the grinder to those notches.

[4x4mike]

Can someone help me out and tell me what I have if anything?

These wires are under the carpet beneath the rear passenger side seat. Is the black plug what this plugs into?
http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=25_62&products_id=51


Pictures:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/1123091917.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/1123091919.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/1123091919a.jpg

And if so I'd need that part from inchworm and then the ecu at the other end under the dash? Sorry I feel like such a dode about this. I've just been a little busy and haven't had hours to pour over the internet and I want to get this done.

[4x4mike]

Ok so I think I may have answered part of my question. Just looking for a confirmation from someone whos been down this road.

I have this:
http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/wiring3.jpg
which is the a normal 3rd gen without a locker and with ABS

And this is supposed to be with ABS and Locker from the factory
http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/wiring4.jpg

I just need to find an ECU that doesn't cost what the 3rd member cost.

[Seanz0rz]

good luck finding a cheap ecu. i searched for a while for mine and just couldnt find one anywhere for a decent enough price.

edit: i cant see in your picture, but what wires go to that black plug? i believe i have that but only a couple of wires go to it.

[Seanz0rz]

actually, i dont think the black plug has anything to do with it. look at the white plug in the first picture. there are only a few wires. the plug in the second pic has many more, that is likely the locker. i still cant find what the black plug is for.

[4x4mike]

I didn't count the wires but in my 4runner the white plug has a plug plugged in it and there are only 2 or 3 wires in it. The black plug has nothing plugged into it but it has like 8 prongs and at least 5 wires coming out of the back of the black plug. I was wondering if the inch worm product is the one that plugs into it and drops through the floor to the diff. I have to track down the other end of that black plug and check it out. I guess this is where the ecu plugs in.

I guess I need to call Rafa as I've been waiting for a while. My dealer, which had a bunch of 5th gens last week, wants around $220 for the ecu. Maybe I should check the dismanteler.

[Seanz0rz]

no. that toyota harness goes from just above the gas tank to the diff (i know, thats the same part i buy from toyota to make my harnesses so they are a seemless plugin to the diff)

i have 4 wires coming from the black plug, 2 of which are white/black (ground?) and the other two are blue/? (power?) but i have no clue what they could be to. fsm is useless in this case. the white plug i have only 4 wires.

i would also look behind the kick panel and see if you have the plug for the ecu. if you do, i would go that route. if you dont, i would go with an alternative, whether you buy my harness or build your own (not terribly difficult actually)

[Robinhood4x4]

Ditto what sean said. That harness is only long enough to reach from the diff straight up to the body/frame area. I didn't use an ecu so what I did was cut off the non-diff side of that harness and wired it into my own harness to my relays/switches. Mainly, the harness is just to interface cleanly with the locker itself.

[4x4mike]

So if that part goes from the diff to the body area what goes from that body area to the black plug? I haven't looked yet but I expect to find the plug area for the ecu.

[Seanz0rz]

im not sure the black plug is used at all. even in steve's picture, there are not enough wires coming out of that black plug to be used for a locker. on the other hand, the white plug is packed with wires(compared to my 4).

[4x4mike]

I just got in from laying in traffic looking at Paddlenbike's 4runner which is locker equipped from the factory. Under his back seat his black plug has a plug coming out of it that has 2 wires (I think they were black and black with white/gray stripe). Again my black plug has nothing plugged into it. His white plug has a lot more wires coming/going from it than mine. I think mine had a round 4 and he's got 8 or 9 some of which are green.

Steve's site shows these plugs and Ken and mine are similar to the 2 different pictures shown. I mentioned the green wires above because from his diff (keep in mind it is hard to see) there is a harness that has some metal brakets and green wires, just like this one:http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/wiring5.jpg

So it looks like I need that part and whatever part goes from that to the white plug? Or whatever harness I have? I believe the black plug has something to do with the ABS. It's most likely a sensor or what disables the ABS when in 4lo with the locker.

[Seanz0rz]

http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/wiring5.jpg is the harness i use for mine. the big connector gets chopped off and soldered to my home made harness.

the part that goes from the big connector to the white harness would be part of the white harness, and you would have to have alot more wires going to that white connector. i really dont think you have the wiring harness for the elocker.

[4x4mike]

i really dont think you have the wiring harness for the elocker.


Therfore I don't have the wiring that goes to the front of the vehicle? For some reason I thought the 3rd gens have it, including the plug in for the ecu.

[Seanz0rz]

not all. read steve's guide again, there are 3 different body harnesses: non abs, abs, and abs+elocker. i got unlucky with just ABS, looks like you are the same way.

[4x4mike]

Yep I just have the ABS harness. I called Rafa and ordered the switch and ecu from him so they should be coming soon.

From Marlin I ordered a couple of small parts I needed including the harness that comes from the differential itself. This next week I hope to buy the wiring I need to take this up to the dash. Marlin had the long studs I needed for the locker (dealers were 2 weeks out) so I drilled and tapped the holes necessary for them, using transfer punches through the existing holes in the 3rd. I eye balled the drilling and used my Dewalt cordless for the job and they turned out better than the factory holes I've been dealing with. The hole placement is key but the plumbness of the stud is victim to your tapping. I've done a lot of tapping so I figured I could wing it and not deal with the housing on the drill press. The straightest studs are the 4 I installed. I've got 3 other studs that required me to take the die grinder to the 3rd and some grinding on the studs. After a little grinding for the ring gear clearance I was ready to go. I've cleaned out the housing really well but will get some more brakekleen when I get the RTV. Once I have that stuff it's fair game.

Punching for holes.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07736.jpg


Punched

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07738.jpg


I drilled pilot holes first. I figured it would be easier to go through the material all the way with a smaller bit.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07739.jpg


The two will soon be mated.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07745.jpg


Had to pull out these suckers when I was cleaning the inside of the housing. A little hard to get out but they are spotless now.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07746.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07747.jpg

[Robinhood4x4]

Maybe you already said this in the thread, but why do you want to use the ecu and not just wire your own relays and such?

[4x4mike]

I've got a 3rd gen so it'll bolt in and hook up and work. I've got the speed sensor, 4wd sensor, etc so the ecu will utilize the features Toyota spec'd. It'll also play well with the light in the dash and I'll be able to use the factory switch. 12voltguy's kit doesn't use relays (full power draw when it's on) and you can't use the factory switch. So far everything is stock/factory except for the cable that goes from the diff harness to the ecu.

[Robinhood4x4]

Oh ok. Not that it matters now, but making your own is just so much cheaper than using the ECU. Plus, I think Sean (?) figured out a way to use the stock switch. I had a way to use the stock switch but the circuit wasn't very elegant so I just used the ARB locker switch. :)

[Bob98SR5]

looks like youre making good progress, mike. keep up with the pics!

[4x4mike]

Thanks Bob. I'm just waiting until I have some time to swap it over real quick. We've been pretty busy lately and I want to have a time cushion just in case.

Question:
After I spray it clean can I grey rtv the 3rd in there and bolt it down? I don't know why I'm asking but it'll be easy to do on the bench and save some time when I swap everything over. The extra weight of the thing won't be an issue because I have Maggie to help (:headscratch:). I just don't want to seal it up and then have to get into it again. I think that once I bolt it into place the shafts should just slide in (I've had them out a couple of times in my current axle with the 3rd in) the brakes will bolt up and I'd be good to go. Right? Maybe I'll do that tomorrow. Bolt torque for the 10mm bolts on the studs?

[Seanz0rz]

Thanks Bob. I'm just waiting until I have some time to swap it over real quick. We've been pretty busy lately and I want to have a time cushion just in case.

Question:
After I spray it clean can I grey rtv the 3rd in there and bolt it down? I don't know why I'm asking but it'll be easy to do on the bench and save some time when I swap everything over. The extra weight of the thing won't be an issue because I have Maggie to help (:headscratch:). I just don't want to seal it up and then have to get into it again. I think that once I bolt it into place the shafts should just slide in (I've had them out a couple of times in my current axle with the 3rd in) the brakes will bolt up and I'd be good to go. Right? Maybe I'll do that tomorrow. Bolt torque for the 10mm bolts on the studs?


yep! no problem there (i did the same thing) though i had a leak with the grey RTV. ive started using ultra copper on everything now. seems to fill the little imperfections a bit better than the grey or black

[4x4mike]

OK. Bob used the grey so I was going to go that route. I used the "right stuff" on a buddy's truck and it's holding up real well I'm just not sure how well it'll come off when that time comes.

[slosurfer]

I'm pretty sure I installed the third while I had the housing out on the bench. I don't remember what RTV I used, but I think it was black RTV that's made for chryslers. :laugh: It was free and I have a few tubes of it. :laugh:

[4x4mike]

Stopped by Napa today and picked up the rtv, seals and brake cleaner (along with some other stuff I just had to have). I bombed the housing and third with about half a can of cleaner, stuck a bunch of magnets in crannies and then blew everything out with compressed air. I chose the black RTV because it has the greatest oil resistance and that's what I want. I read up on the copper stuff and grey and will use one down the road if I have to. After laying a bead it was the moment of truth. It had been a few days since I turned down 2 studs, ovalized some holes and ground out the housing more so I was expecting to get the SOB stuck and make a big sticky mess. I picked the 3rd up and went for it. That third member slid on so easily and straight I smiled ear to ear and drank a beer to celebrate. I couldn't find the torque spec so I hand tightened like the instructions said and then after about an hour laid into the nuts and tightened the thing up. Everything is now very nice, clean and sealed.

Some pictures for the night:

The bounty I told my wife I was after. The other bag is still in the back seat to come out some other day.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07769.jpg


I ordered my long studs and hardware from Marlin. My dealer was 2 weeks out on the studs and I was having trouble getting a hold of Rafa. I guess I could have gone to HD but I wanted everything the same in one place and ready to go. The box from Marlin was on my door step in 36 hours after I paid.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07770.jpg


This will be the third time I put inner axle seals in a 4Runner axle. This time was the easiest. Tilted that sucker up, wrapped a leg around it and pounded it home (sorry it's late for me and I haven't had a good nights sleep since Thanksgiving).
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07781.jpg


Now I just have to find a couple hours to pull into the garage and swap everything over. My wife is a little excited because she likes to help bleed brakes. I guess I am a lucky man.

[Bob98SR5]

Thanks Bob. I'm just waiting until I have some time to swap it over real quick. We've been pretty busy lately and I want to have a time cushion just in case.

Question:
After I spray it clean can I grey rtv the 3rd in there and bolt it down? I don't know why I'm asking but it'll be easy to do on the bench and save some time when I swap everything over. The extra weight of the thing won't be an issue because I have Maggie to help (:headscratch:). I just don't want to seal it up and then have to get into it again. I think that once I bolt it into place the shafts should just slide in (I've had them out a couple of times in my current axle with the 3rd in) the brakes will bolt up and I'd be good to go. Right? Maybe I'll do that tomorrow. Bolt torque for the 10mm bolts on the studs?


yep! no problem there (i did the same thing) though i had a leak with the grey RTV. ive started using ultra copper on everything now. seems to fill the little imperfections a bit better than the grey or black


ditto to what sean said. though i have had no issues with leakage with the grey rtv. im sure the black will work just fine.

[Scuba]

Lookin awesome Mike !

[Obi..]

Hey, it looks a little defective to me, maybe you should bring it here and I'll test it out for you? :drink:

[paddlenbike]

Looks like you made a diff guard for it too?

[Scuba]

Looks like you made a diff guard for it too?


Good eye Ken !

That's whats up. Damn 8.4's and no diff guards :(

[Obi..]

That's whats up. Damn 8.4's and no diff guards :(


Scuba, given any thought to dragging yourself over to Marlin's shop and see if they'll hook something up for you. I know there was a Taco diff cover on a truck recently but not sure if it's a production deal yet. You could also just knife the welds on a 8" spread the side plates and base a little, then weld in 2 new triangles/slivers to get the size right, although spreading steel that thick sucks if you don't have access to a hydro press, I have seen it done with a rig, a spot in a dirt yard, and some pieces of 2"x4" to prevent it completely flattening out though.

ie: http://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/front-axle-parts/differential-armor

[Scuba]

That's whats up. Damn 8.4's and no diff guards :(


Scuba, given any thought to dragging yourself over to Marlin's shop and see if they'll hook something up for you. I know there was a Taco diff cover on a truck recently but not sure if it's a production deal yet. You could also just knife the welds on a 8" spread the side plates and base a little, then weld in 2 new triangles/slivers to get the size right, although spreading steel that thick sucks if you don't have access to a hydro press, I have seen it done with a rig, a spot in a dirt yard, and some pieces of 2"x4" to prevent it completely flattening out though.

ie: http://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/front-axle-parts/differential-armor


Actually no I havent thought about going to MC's shop, Their too far away in fresno..
A guy on TTORA is in the process of getting these developed and produced by a local fab shop for the 8.4's and the 8's with Elockers..

http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/mods/skids/Rear%20diff,%20pinion%20skid/photos/rear-diff-skid-2-003.jpg
http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/mods/skids/Rear%20diff,%20pinion%20skid/photos/rear-diff-skid-2-004.jpg

Thanks for the thoughts though :)

[4x4mike]

Yep got a diff guard. I figured since I was ordering stuff and I had the thing out of a vehicle with no oil in it...

I was half throwing the idea of one of the ones shown above but they're big and I've read up on them. Doesn't seem they stay together too long. I think it was on the FJ forums that there was one with the same design that folded and broke. The bottom of the 3rd and diff housing it thick and strong so I'm not worried about that.

[Obi..]

...I think it was on the FJ forums that there was one with the same design that folded and broke.


They (*in reference to the u-bolt mounted skid below) all fail first at the muffler/pipe clamps, or transfer forces into the u-bolt sometimes damaging, fracture cracking the welds on the diff housing and tubes. A very nice setup if you aren't putting a lot of weight on them, but horror if you do, not including the fact that they're also notorious rock traps and next thing you know you hear a loud "BANG" as your scooting over a slab and the little rock explodes into pieces and impacts the shards everywhere causing in some cases cracks also. Picture a small piece of shale or granite under what's easily 1-1/2 tons of vehicle, pretty messy results, including a projectile right into your gas tank.

IOW, Scuba, have one made right, please don't buy a pos like this..*and yeah, I know it's on (NorCalTTORA) Chris's rig.
http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/mods/skids/Rear%20diff,%20pinion%20skid/photos/rear-diff-skid-2-003.jpg

[Obi..]

*Mike sorry for the O/T detour, but this is stuff people w/ the newer rigs like both of yours should know. ;)

[4x4mike]

*Mike sorry for the O/T detour, but this is stuff people w/ the newer rigs like both of yours should know. ;)


Oh I know. I waste enough time crusing the internet to see enough good and bad.

Of course everything fails at the weak link. That skid pictured is heavy plate bolted on with muffler clamps. Not only is that cheesy but the location of the failure. IMO Bud Builts doesn't look any better, especially for the price but for some reason people are all excited for it. They are for the 8.4 BTW.
http://www.budbuilt.com/new/07+FJCruiser.html

[4x4mike]

Time to get the wiring nailed down. Found some multi strand wire that fits my fancy. It's 7 strand so it's one extra strand but it'll do. This is sprinkler control wire and Lowe's sells it by the foot. I was going to use cat5 but it's 24 gauge and too light for this app. I was looking for some 6 strand security camera wiring but it's hard to find in the evening and by the foot. Online it comes in 1000' rolls. Anyways time to splice this to the rear diff harness and find a plug pig tail to my e-locker ecu.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07795.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07794.jpg

[Obi..]

*I thought sprinkler wire was solid vs. strand?

[4x4mike]

It's solid but will still work.

[paddlenbike]

That looks much better than the cat5e you showed me.

[4x4mike]

That looks much better than the cat5e you showed me.


This reminded me of Scotty Mac's story of jump starting a car with speaker wire.

[Obi..]

This reminded me of Scotty Mac's story of jump starting a car with speaker wire.


:lol:

You don't need to even say more. My right index finger has a permanent missing chunk out of it from doing something similar with a battery pack and my Losi JR-2. Speaker wire is for speakers.

[paddlenbike]

Your resale value is going to be crap after this swap. I can't think of anyone that would want a green Highlander 4Runner with a 5-speed manual, rear locker and a hood scoop. :tongueout:

[Obi..]

What's this "resale value" you speak of? Never used the term myself. Own 'til it dies then build another.

[4x4mike]

Your resale value is going to be crap after this swap. I can't think of anyone that would want a green Highlander 4Runner with a 5-speed manual, rear locker and a hood scoop. :tongueout:


Hey I have a sun roof as well.

Got the axle in today. All in all it took about 6 hours and that included lunch, taking apart every bushing to clean and grease, as well as installing a sprig spacer that required a lot of cutting. I also took a test drive down to the dismanteler to get some plug pig tails. I'm fighting photobucket right now but hope to post some pictures.

[4x4mike]

Photobucket is updating stuff and their site is a little messed up but we'll see if this works.

This assembly is lighter than the e-locker one.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07828.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07830.jpg

My '99 springs have always been a little soft so I installed some air lift bags in the coils right after I got it. This leveled out the saggy butt and kept it level when loaded and towing. I've always had to have at least 15 psi in them to keep it level and air lift says a 20 psi max. I've run more but I wanted to try something else. I bought a spacer lift the week before I bought the 4runner and it's been sitting in my closet. I was looking at it recently and noticed it was drying out and probably no good for an entire lift. It's too tall so I didn't plan on using it but last night I decided I'll try using part of it. I cut the spacer in half which yields a 1" spacer. They went in fine but now the back end is a little higher. I have to do something to the front, take out the spacer or I could leave it. Who knows maybe it'll settle. If not maybe it's time for my new tires.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07831.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07833.jpg

Got to climb around a crashed Tacoma for these pigtails. This should keep me busy for a little.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07835.jpg

[Scuba]

What's this "resale value" you speak of? Never used the term myself. Own 'til it dies then build another.


I'm with this guy, my pos doesn't have much resale value I'm sure..
That's fine though, I plan on driving it for as long as possible. And what the hell, I only payed 5k for it..

Mike, so you have the elocked axle under the truck, just not wired up or anything?
Good luck on all the wiring, I wouldn't have the patience for that..

[slosurfer]

What's this "resale value" you speak of? Never used the term myself. Own 'til it dies then build another.


I'm with this guy, my pos doesn't have much resale value I'm sure..
That's fine though, I plan on driving it for as long as possible. And what the hell, I only payed 5k for it..


Scuba, isn't your "resale value", whatever the insurance company will give ya when you wreck it? :flipoff:

[4x4mike]

Mike, so you have the elocked axle under the truck, just not wired up or anything?
Good luck on all the wiring, I wouldn't have the patience for that..

Yep it's under there and working fine. I drove about 40 miles today and it's quiet and not leaking :thumbup:

The about 75% of my wiring is straight forward. I've got to spice my multi strand sprinkler line into the factory harness that attaches to the diff. The wire will be run under the carpet where the factory would put it. When it gets to the kick panel on the driver side I'll solder on the pigtail and plug it into the ECU. From the ECU it goes to the switch and a few other places. It's the other places I'm not too sure about.

[Scuba]

Sounds good. Well I know you'll keep us updated :)

[Obi..]

I've got to spice my multi strand sprinkler line into the factory harness that attaches to the diff.



Please tell me you aren't gonna use solid running down to the diff, that you've some 14 or 12 laying around. That wiring doesn't like to be flexed a bunch. Sorry if I read that wrong..

[4x4mike]

Solid will go from the body near the gas tank along the floor to the front kick panel. It's got about 2 bends to deal with.

[4x4mike]

Well I'm finally done wiring the locker up. It isn't all that hard it just hard to find time with work, family, holidays and the baby. I had half the dash and the cluster apart the other day and the baby monitor was blowing up. I had to push everything back in just so I could close the door and go inside to see what the hell was going on.

I didn't take a bunch of pictures but that's ok because I'm not doing a full write up. I'm going to take my chances with photobucket and try to get some pictures up.

This is the factory harness spliced into the sprinkler wire. You can see my tape job at the bottom. This required me cutting the factory plug off the harness and soldering the wires to the sprinkler wire. I ended up taking the metal mounting brackets off the harness because I couldn't get them to mount the way I wanted to.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07836.jpg


There is a hole in the body above the gas tank so I routed the wires through it. It's nice and sealed and makes it easy to lay under the carpet.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07838.jpg

The sprinkler wire runs to the e locker ecu which is mounted in the factory location behind the drivers kick panel. The only bolt I had has a rusty one from the old axle :wrenchin:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07839.jpg


Here is the final look of the dash panel. The big fog switch goes to the big Hellas, the little toggles are OBA (top) and locker safety switch (bottom). From the factory the switch that would replace mine is a speed sensor switch that ensures you are at 5 mph or under. I didn't feel like digging through everything to find this or adding more wires to this mess so I did it easy.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07864.jpg


Wired the diff lock switch to go on with the lights.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07865.jpg


It works in 2hi, 4hi and 4lo.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07868.jpg

I had to break out the push broom and clean up all the gravel I spit up on the driveway.

Only thing left is to figure out how to tap into the instrument cluster and light up the RR Diff Lock light. I pulled the cluster and had the wiring diagram but the wire I needed wasn't there.

[slosurfer]

Nice! :thumbup: I like the idea of a safety switch when using the oem switch and "grey wire mod". I will do this eventually with the elocker on April's truck, and I'll have to pester you how to wire the safety switch.

You'll be happy you did it so that it works in 2hi. Last weekend, l33t35t tacoma and I went to the dunes after/during it raining. It was so fun and fast out there, I hardly ever used 4hi at all. 2hi with the locker was a blast, but 2hi with the 3.4 and a locker would have been even better. :( (I hate having no power)

[4x4mike]

Nice! :thumbup: I like the idea of a safety switch when using the oem switch and "grey wire mod". I will do this eventually with the elocker on April's truck, and I'll have to pester you how to wire the safety switch.

You'll be happy you did it so that it works in 2hi. Last weekend, l33t35t tacoma and I went to the dunes after/during it raining. It was so fun and fast out there, I hardly ever used 4hi at all. 2hi with the locker was a blast, but 2hi with the 3.4 and a locker would have been even better. :( (I hate having no power)


April's truck should have a safety already. It only allows you to engage the locker at 5 mph or below. Did you bypass this with a gray wire mod? If so just put a switch between the gray wire and ground, that's what I did. It'll be fun running around in 2hi locked. I can tell already it's way grippy in my driveway and street. Maybe I'll head down to the river.

[slosurfer]

Yeah, sorry, I meant once I do the grey wire mod on her truck, then I'll want to put the safety switch in. :thumbup:

[4x4mike]

I think that once you do it you still have to be under 5 mph for it to engage. There is a whole nother wire from the ECU that goes to a speed sensor. I could be wrong though this stuff is still new to me. I didn't connect the speed sensor pin. This more than the gray wire mod was the reason for the safety switch.

[YotaFun]

Sorry for off-topic, But I thought that the grey wire mod on the 05+ taco's wasn't possible, I thought it had to be done through a set of relay's and such?

Just curious.


Mike, I will be taking a que from you and picking up that wire you got to run in the cab, not a bad Idea and def looks to be working for you.

[slosurfer]

I remember looking it up awhile ago. I think it's possible, but is a little more complicated than the actual "grey wire mod". I'll try to look it up later.


Edit: Mike sorry for the little hijack :)

Here's a way for the 05+ taco's to do it with no relays and it involves a safety switch like Mikes. I like it because it doesn't involve tapping or cutting into any of the stock wires, you just shove a wire into the same hole as the stock wire. :)
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=226409

[Bob98SR5]

mike great to hear you got it to work. when you figure out how to wire up the locker rocker switch to the diff light in the instrument cluster, lemme know. I still have not done that yet.

[4x4mike]

Thanks again for the housing Bob. If you need another one let me know mine's sitting in the garage.

One of my projects this week is organizing 4Runner stuff as one of my binders opened up on me in the garage. I also want to document some of the work I've done on the 4Runner. I don't want to have a problem in a couple of years and wonder what the heck I'm looking at or wonder what I was on when I made the mod.

Let me say 4runners.org (shameless plug) has helped me out a lot. First was when I bought the 4Runner all the way up to today when I did my plugs and wires. Thanks for such a great resource.

[Bob98SR5]

Mike,

No problem on the housing. You've been a good friend and helpful too. I'd say pass on the housing to another worthy UY member. Keep it in the family :)

If you have any notes that you want to add to my writeup, please let me know where to incorporate and I'll eventually get to it. And thanks for the props on 4runners.org. It's been hard to add posts as of late, but glad it was a good resource.

[4x4mike]

Anyone need a housing. It's in Northern California if you're interested. I don't have the room to store it for too long but it's here now.


Bob, I'll read through the write up and let you know. Honestly most of my reading was done in the garage with a laptop and with haste most of the time. I'll try to remember the little things and see if anything needs being added. I need to look into the Diff Lock light on the dash and see if I can get it to work. If I can I'll let you decide if you want to add it.

[paddlenbike]

Yeah, sorry, I meant once I do the grey wire mod on her truck, then I'll want to put the safety switch in. :thumbup:


Chris, I wouldn't bother, right now you have to be in 4-Lo and going less than 5 mph to engage. The reason I did a safety switch on the elocker swap on my 1994 truck was because there was no 4-Lo position switch on that truck AND there was no way to hook up the speed sensor. I just wanted to make sure the switch didn't accidentally get pushed while going down the freeway. Even if you do the original gray wire mod (can't speak for the '05+ since I haven't reviewed the wiring diagrams) you don't have to worry because the 5mph trigger is still there.

I still haven't modded the OEM elocker on the 4Runner because I have little use to lock the rear diff while in 2WD. I used 2WD locked a couple of times on the last truck because it was fun pitching it sideways on dirt roads but I know my 4Runner is likely to stay right-side up if I don't do that!

[4x4mike]

I'm officially done with the swap. It's in and working and all the finishing touches are complete. This was the last little lose end I wanted to do and got it done today.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/1222091727.jpg

The 3rd gens have this in the dash cluster (combination meter) and I wanted to hook it up. I won't go into super specifics but if you're doing this swap some of this should make sense. There are 6 wires that come into the cab from the differential. 2 of those wires come from the diff lock detection switch. One of those wires is white/black and is a ground. I ground mine with and where I grounded my ecu and "gray wire". The other wire is a yellow/blue. This is what, when connected, will light up the dash cluster light. I won't post the wiring diagram because it's not necessary but there is a large plug (brown in color and referred to C29 (B) in the diagram) in the back of the cluster that you run the yellow/blue wire to. It seems like the entire cluster is "hot" and has 12v through it. The yellow/blue is a ground and when the diff is locked the wire goes to ground and the light turns on. Anyways the wire goes to pin #5 which in the picture is the slot to the right of the solid green wire.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/pic.jpg

I believe that in a factory equipped e locker vehicle when you press the rr diff lock switch (while in 4lo and under 5 mph) the red cluster light will blink and then become solid once the diff is locked and the yellow/blue is grounded. I don't have the 5mph or 4 lo portion hooked up so mine doesn't flash it just becomes illuminated once the diff is locked. Hope this helps anyone who is going down this road. This mod should work even if you don't use the factory ecu and as long as you have that labeling in your cluster. This is the way the factory does it where as if you google this you'll find other hodge podge ways of getting this to light up.

[paddlenbike]

Cool. I'm not sure what we would do without factory wiring diagrams; none of my electrical modifications would be possible without them.

[4x4mike]

My old housing was passed on to Slomatt for his swap. I'm not sure who's rear end Bob has but I've got his and Matt has mine.

Matt got it somewhat premodded

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07891.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07892.jpg

[slomatt]

I haven't found a good deal on a 4.10 elocker yet so the diff housing is still wrapped up and sitting in the garage, kinda looks like a mummy. :)

Oh, when we met I think I mentioned that I've had a burning smell from the passenger side of the truck when I come to a stop. I was sure it must have been because of a leaking axle seal but both brake drums are completely dry and there is no sign of a leak. Now I'm wondering if I have a really small valve cover leak, but I can't spot any oil on the exhaust manifold.

- Matt

[slomatt]

As of this weekend Mike's axle with my e-locker 3rd member is now under the truck, just need to find time to bleed the brakes and put in some diff fluid. The install took a lot of time, but everything went smoothly. Hopefully there are no leaks.

One quick question, does anybody have a picture of where the two brackets on the elocker harness are supposed to bolt to?

http://www.marlincrawler.com/sites/all/marlin/files/eharness640.jpg

On the right hand harness you can see two metal brackets. I think the top one is supposed to bolt to the top shock mount, and I have no idea where the bottom one should mount, possibly in a hole that doesn't exist on my 4runner? Anybody have a picture of where these go normally? For extra bonus points, any suggestions on where to run the actuator breather hose?

Major thanks again to Mike for the axle housing and letting me borrow his tap and transfer punch.

- Matt

[paddlenbike]

I will check my truck tonight and get back to you.

[Seanz0rz]

the tab nearest the axle gets bolted under one of the nuts for the 3rd member. the other, IIRC, attaches to a tab on the UCA tube or a nut in the body. i have mine attached to the gas tank.

you may be right concerning the attachment to the shock cup.

i ran my breather up into the shock cup and down through a hole (maybe where that bracket bolts into) so it points down, less likely to get water in that way i figured.

[4x4mike]

Cool, I was thinking about this the other day when I was thinking about going skiing. I though you had no excuses since there isn't any snow.

Here is what I have from my old photobucket account.

Smaller tab bolted using one of the 3rd member bolts.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/mezamichael82/4Runner%20Axle/DSC07907.jpg

The other is just up there somewhere. I think the breather has a clip and I just clipped it up high.

Did you wire the switch to the dash light?

[slomatt]

Thanks everyone for the info. It will be interesting to compare Mike's picture to Ken's factory setup. I've been thinking of t-ing the actuator breather into my extended rear diff breather, bit it might be easier just to mount it up high somewhere like Sean did.

Mike, no skiing yet, but I've been swamped with other projects so this got put on the back burner. Sorry for holding on to your tap for so long. I replaced my chassis harness with an elocker version (BIG project), put in the ecu and the switch, and the light immediately started working. I've been testing the locker under the truck and it is engaging/disengaging properly and locking up the axles. Keeping my fingers crossed that I got everything sealed up properly. This was my first time installing axle seals.

- Matt

[4x4mike]

Your axle seals should be fine. New ones can operate with a lot of axle swap as I learned when I had to replace my axle bearings.

I have a very slow leak around one of the mounting studs for the 3rd member. About every 2 weeks there is a small drip I can wipe off. It's not enough to pull the 3rd member and I've tried to plug it up but no dice.

I'll try to get some better pics tonight. I'm not sure when I took the one I posted as I keep everything painted and mostly rust free.

[paddlenbike]

Here is my factory setup:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tLdBNaEKw3M/TxeC8YlZA3I/AAAAAAAAGeg/gitFQzEpWvM/s800/DSC_0066.jpg
The elocker motor harness attaches to the top right bolt on the e-locker solenoid.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LVCl_OikkzA/TxeC8RVtsII/AAAAAAAAGeY/kaAg-ZGPksc/s800/DSC_0060.jpg
The body harness attaches to the rear shock subframe using the blind nut closest to the fuel tank and furthest from the coil spring.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-f0lPsheQT_E/TxeC8AgwcDI/AAAAAAAAGeU/B0_szyjRFfo/s800/DSC_0062.jpg
The breather clips to the body between the coil spring and the fuel lines.

Hope this helps.

[4x4mike]

That's what mine looks like. We must have looked at it and I copied.

I've seen your muddy DV pics but that is the dirtiest I've seen your truck, ever.

[paddlenbike]

I've seen your muddy DV pics but that is the dirtiest I've seen your truck, ever.


Dang you Mike, I was hoping you wouldn't notice. I admit, it has been quite a while since I've been under the truck. It's certainly dirtier than it has been in the past.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TOCeGze4vyw/Txel41OXW9I/AAAAAAAAGe0/fkSNuvs1nhc/s640/IFS1.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-H8wsWJOTjFE/Txel4yAzGSI/AAAAAAAAGfA/ZcGw0o9_YiA/s640/chassis4.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N6TOmyxhARw/Txel4-Wc7hI/AAAAAAAAGew/gbACKLScjQY/s640/chassis3.jpg

[Seanz0rz]

Ken, those last 3 pictures are DISGUSTING... They don't make bleach strong enough to erase that from my eyes!

[paddlenbike]

LOL. That was long ago.

[slomatt]

Ken, thanks for the pictures. Those help a lot.

- Matt

[KZN185W]

http://www.marlincrawler.com/sites/all/marlin/files/eharness640.jpg

- Matt


Matt,

Would you happen to have the part number for the harness on the left?

Thanks!

[Seanz0rz]

WWW.4runners.org (http://WWW.4runners.org) will have the part numbers for the swap.

[4x4mike]

www.4runners.org (http://www.4runners.org) is a great resource. When I bought my 4Runner I printed most of the sections out and put them in a binder that way it's always handy.

Here is another source for the front wiring harness.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/air-electronics/wiring-harness/electric-locker-wiring-harness

[KZN185W]

Thanks guys!

[slomatt]

Victory! The elocker is in the 4runner, no leaks, engages fine. I don't want to hijack Mike's thread, but big thanks to him for the writeup and for letting me borrow his tap. After 3 years I finally have my ideal 4runner, 2000 sport, 5spd, grey interior, moon roof, elocker!

- Matt

[Robinhood4x4]

Good to hear Matt. You might want to let people know about the torque value problem you found.

[4x4mike]

Victory! The elocker is in the 4runner, no leaks, engages fine. I don't want to hijack Mike's thread, but big thanks to him for the writeup and for letting me borrow his tap. After 3 years I finally have my ideal 4runner, 2000 sport, 5spd, grey interior, moon roof, elocker!

- Matt


Cool man. Good to hear it all went together well.

What is this about a torque valve?

[slomatt]

Good to hear Matt. You might want to let people know about the torque value problem you found.


Good point, I'll be posting a overview of the project at some point with details. But, the quick summary is that the rear axle diagram in the service manual shows that for a non-elocker 4Runner the 3rd member studs should be torqued to 54 lb-ft. These are not large diameter studs and torquing them to this level will deform the nuts, washers, and probably stretch the studs (ask me know I know). Steve looked up the maximum torque for these fasteners and it was well under the marked value. The same diagram in the FSM shows the torque value for the diff lock 3rd member to be 18 lb-ft which makes much more sense.

My assumption is that this is a typo in the service manual, possibly since the driveshaft bolts are supposed to be torqued to 54 lb-ft and they are located right next to the differential bolts in the diagram.

As far as we could tell no real harm was done, and I ended up loosening the few bolts we cranked down on and re-torquing everything to 18lb-ft.

- Matt

[4x4mike]

Oh man, mine are way tighter than 18 ft-lbs. I think I had a little spinning but it all tightened.

[paddlenbike]

After 3 years I finally have my ideal 4runner, 2000 sport, 5spd, grey interior, moon roof, elocker!

:thumbup: :thumbup:

[whitewater T4R]

that would have been possible if they even used the same axle... the elocker equipped axles are the same 8" v6 axles from the 2nd gen 4runners, while non e-locker axle is the same as the tacos... still an 8", but not compatible (sometimes mistakenly called the 8.25")

I know this is an old thread, but useful nonetheless. I just acquired a 3rd gen that I'm parting out. I'm keeping the locker for my 2nd gen....

If the above statement is true..can I just swap the axles and re-gear the front (that is if the rear on the 3rd gen isn't 4:10)?

[Seanz0rz]

I believe the mounting brackets and spring perches are different from 2nd to 3rd gen rear axles.

Since you now have both, compare the two. But I am fairly confident they are different.

[4x4mike]

Wouldn't ABS be an issue as well?

[whitewater T4R]

I've deleted the ABS system from my truck. That made it a lot easier to wire in the computer system from doing the 3.4 L swap.

My concern is will the suspension components still align. Mine is a 91, and the parts truck is a 96....

[YotaFun]

The 96 will NOT line up under a 91, different mount points, spring bucket size, etc.

However! I believe there was a issue where 2nd gen guys would do the retrofit and the sway bar would not clear the motor, and iirc you could either massage the one in the 91 over OR the 96 may fit. I'd hold on to the 96 swap bar if you still want to run a rear sway bar.

[whitewater T4R]

Alright...well it looks like I'll be pulling the 3rd member, and modifying my 91 axle. Now all I can hope for is the gears to be the same (which I doubt). My '91 has 4:10, and I've not checked the 96, but it is an auto so that leads me to think that they are not the same.

[Seanz0rz]

the 96 is likely a 4.10. it was by far the most common gear ratio in the 4runners and tacomas