Drive Spacers.. (Driveshaft/etc..)

[Obi..]

Educate me here, I understand it is always best to go with a remade driveshaft in going with a need for a longer driveshaft, but a spacer is somewhat effective within a set limit so you don't affect the cardan/cv angles. What about say someone has gone to the Total Chaos arms and is destroying even the longer T100 shafts, where it seems maybe a 3/4"-1" spacer there would resolve the issue.

Is there a reason you would not want to consider that option if say you were to use a longer set of bolts in combination so as to strengthen the entire set-up?

Am I missing something as far as torsional and shear forces that would make this an issue? We've access to a machine shop (CNC) and I might try to make a set if I go ahead and make a 1" short shift block since I'll have a decent sized piece of billet to play with.

ie:
http://image.nengun.com/catalogue/original/nengun-1599-00-mandmhonda-driveshaft_spacer.jpg

[corax]

I'm not sure T100 shafts are any stronger or weaker than the "normal" length shaft found on 4runners or P/Us - I thought the only difference was the actual shaft itself. A longer driveshaft without the spacers would allow the CVs/u-joints to maintain a smaller angle through the the full suspension cycle - how would a spacer alleviate breakage since it'll actually make the CVs work at a higher/more severe angle. Am I missing something?

also, a slightly longer axle shaft will be able to absorb slightly more torsional shock loading that would otherwise be transferred to the inner CV.

[Obi..]

*Don't have a pic to share, but from the look of the old shaft, it failed at the inside point of the star and cage. Basically it looks like because of the shaft not quite being long enough it tore the thing apart. That's why I'm thinking it just needs a little more length to center things up, that or we move things a little with his limit straps to reduce the articulation. Problem is it doesn't appear it happened while crawling it happened at speed. Maybe why people are so into the Porsche shafts?

*FWIW nothing like throwing around a batch of 1" bearings at speed around your fender well and all around you..

Ping! KaPow!

[Obi..]

*Ah, remembered the specific area the failure occurred, the rzeppa joint, and there are two hairline fractures..maybe it was due to bad material as it's apparently not a O/E shaft, but a Napa piece.

AAR, I'm still thinking we should try a spacer since when we put the Toyota shaft in it does appear to pull things apart as little more than it should.

I might just talk to Roger brown and see if he's approached this idea versus the whole differential drop spacer idea since it would be nice to keep the diff where it is and not have to drop it 1" to fix things.

Where's a great online geometries and movement animation generator you can use without the necessary download and expense.. :rofl:

Off to play in SKETCH-UP..where's mah mesurin' tape!!

[4x4mike]

All I can say is that I've got the URD ssk and I like it.

[Obi..]

All I can say is that I've got the URD ssk and I like it.


*Who I can also order that from if I want to, after I play with a CNC for a week, I can just cut and splice the shift arm. :D

I already have it bookmarked.. http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.php?cPath=106_73&products_id=1230100042

[4x4mike]

Who I can also order that from if I want to

I ordered the short shift kit from URD. I think it was $90 when I got it.

[Obi..]

Who I can also order that from if I want to

I ordered the short shift kit from URD. I think it was $90 when I got it.


WHy I'm prolly just gonna make my own at this point. I cannot justify it being $149.00 now when supposedly things get cheaper over time as initial costs are already past. Why are they charging more for it now, is it made from the newly enhances unobtainium alloy?

[4x4mike]

At the end I didn't pay $90 because I had a discount from Pismo. Plus I don't have a chunk of AL or the means of machining it not to mention I didn't want to deal with it. It's a nice kit and works really well.

Initial cost most likely has gone down but other costs remain or increase depending on what you're making, materials, overhead, etc. Take Chris King for instance. Their junk has always been the same price and the product hasn't changed (take a no threadset for example). Sure they moved (to a cheaper state mind you), they built a big'ol place, and use old machines. Materials, labor, advertising, etc all cost money and people are willing to pay for it so they charge it. I'm all about making stuff especially when I know I can make something that will fit my needs better and for cheaper. A shift kit was just something I'd rather buy.