Rear Differential Breather....ooops

[AZyakima]

I'm a newbie so excuse me if there's already write-ups on the subject that I may have missed. I own a '99 4Runner with 141k miles. I regularly change all fluids but it appears that by not installing a $4 part and extending my breather on the rear diff I have caused the dreaded failure. My mechanic has told me to start searching for a new rear differential.... Im curious if anyone has had any luck resolving this type of issue and what the best approach would be ie rebuild or replace.

[garrett]

What exactly is wrong with yours? Did your mechanic tell you anything other than it has 'failed'?

[MTL_4runner]

Has your rear dif failed completely already?
Any pics of what happened?

If water got in and made the oil into a milkshake, then yes, all sorts of bad things might have happened.

[AZyakima]

So far no news other than what I expected to hear...Rear end failure of some sort. Being a 3rd member they'll have to take the axels out yada yada yada and its still up on the rack waiting on my approval to have them tear into it. I won't know exactly what's failed until they get into it.

Sorry, no pics. It hasn't completely failed either. Im wondering if I put some 80wt oil in there I can trade it in.. No, cant go without my runner. Its been too good to me to find closure in such a demoralizing way.

Anyone in AZ have an idea of where I might find a used one? Or would a rebuild be more beneficial?

Thanks

[marko3xl3]

Depending on what might've gone wrong, you might just be able to get away with buying a new gear (or two). Truth is, if it was still working, and the only diagnosis is milky oil, you still have a chance of getting away easy.

How'd you know something is wrong in the first place? Did it start makin' weird noises?

[AZyakima]

Yep, started about 3 months ago as a small whining sound and has progressed into an annoying, loud whining sound with a small almost whistle-like sound. I mean, I trust my mechanic but its hard to diagnose without giving him consent to tear into it. Either way Im out cash and I have a race in Northern AZ (dirtbikes) this weekend I need to drive too so the runners gotta get back on the road. Its either drive it til she explodes/fails or have it done now.

So far all I know is that the oil is milky.

[marko3xl3]

Yep, started about 3 months ago as a small whining sound and has progressed into an annoying, loud whining sound with a small almost whistle-like sound. I mean, I trust my mechanic but its hard to diagnose without giving him consent to tear into it. Either way Im out cash and I have a race in Northern AZ (dirtbikes) this weekend I need to drive too so the runners gotta get back on the road. Its either drive it til she explodes/fails or have it done now.

So far all I know is that the oil is milky.


In that case, you really don't have much of a choice. If you can't find a used working one right away, but can't come up with the cash to fix it, I'd at the least get it properly diagnosed and have the oil flushed and changed. If anything, that'll get you the most miles out of your sick diff :)

[Bob98SR5]

if youre talking about a replacement rear diff from a junkyard, expect to pay somewhere between $70 and $100. cheap if you ask me

[MTL_4runner]

You may also need to do the axle seals and bearings if they were ruined with the water entering the dif. You'd probably spend alot more money trying to rebuild what you have than to just get a used one from a junkyard. I agree with Bob, out there you should be able to pick up a used 3rd member (double and triple check you have the right ratio for your truck) for about $100-200 or so.

[AZyakima]

I appreciate everyone's replies and interest in my dilemma. Found out that the rear diff is 4.30 Gearing. Also discovered by calling my local shop that Toyota sells the entire rear diff <new> for $1217.73! Bit more than Im willing to part with but atleast I'd have a solid rear-end for my next 100+k miles... If everything else lasts, which I think It will Im good :) I'll likely get another opinion before making a final call but thought I'd wrap my thread with a final update.

To the staff: Great Site! I thoroughly enjoy having become a member.
To the Members: Thanks for the help for the few that replied. Its nice to know I have a reputable resource now for my runner as I do with my KTM for any one-off questions or concerns. You all have some amazing Yota's!

[Robinhood4x4]

$1217 sounds high, even from the dealer. Shop around. Try http://northridgetoyota.com/, they give members here deals on parts. You'll probably have to email them because their phone numbers don't work out of their area.

Also, for $200 more you can get an ARB'd diff from Marlin. They don't show 4.30 on their website but they might be able to work something out if you call them.

Another alternative is to buy new gears, a master rebuild kit, and have somebody rebuild your diff. Zuk is a pretty well known guy who does rebuilds for people, you just send him the parts. http://www.gearinstalls.com/

Going the junkyard route is not a bad thing either. Usually the only thing that might be wrong with them is a small pinion seal leak which can be fixed pretty easily.

[Bighead]

Call Toyota of Dallas ( http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214074 ). They have the same diff priced at $841.90...you were quoted the MSRP price.

[neliconcept]

i thought only 4.30s were put in elocked 4runners? or some elocked runners

do you have a locker?

[MTL_4runner]

You can also try www.car-part.com to search for parts in your area. If I were you, I'd either go the junkyard route or be on the lookout for people upgrading to a locker and selling their old diffs (although a 4.30 is going to be much harder to find than a 4.10). If you still come up empty handed with those two, you can have the dif rebuilt and setup by a place like http://www.gearinstalls.com/ as Steve mentioned and just buy a new set of Yukon 4.30 gears along with a master install kit (bearings, shims, seals, etc) which should run you about $250 total for both (call the Northridge and Toyota of Dallas and see what they have for OEM gear pricing too). Not sure how much Zuk charges for setup or shipping, but last I heard it was about $200 (if you can find a good race shop locally that does gears, you might try them to save on shipping but make sure they are good first). Then add the wheel bearings which are about $45 each from the dealer and the outer axle seals are like $8 or $9 each. So you're looking at about $500-600 for the whole deal rebuilt at a minimum so if you can find a cheap 3rd in the boneyard, it will probably be worth your while to pick it up.

Northridge: www.northridgetoyota.com

Toyota of Dallas: www.trdparts4u.com

[GSGALLANT]

...So you're looking at about $500-600 for the whole deal rebuilt at a minimum so if you can find a cheap 3rd in the boneyard, it will probably be worth your while to pick it up.
Agree. But keep in mind that the 3rd member you pick up may still need a rebuild. If you decide to go this route, make sure the gears and bearings in the 3rd are in good shape. Otherwise, you'll have to rebuild that one before putting it in, and you'll be out more money. Sometimes it's hard to know whether or not a used gearset will whistle or hum when you install it in your vehicle. Definitely the best way to go would be to rebuild yours with brand new gears, bearings and seals, if you can afford it. The prices that Jamie quoted are pretty close to what you should expect.

[bamachem]

i'm pretty sure that if you have 4.30's, then you also have a rear e-locker.

with that being the case, then here's a couple for you to check out:
(from http://car-part.com using 1999 4runner, differential, 4.30 w/ diff lock)

4.30 REAR CARRIER ASSY W DIFF LOCK $350 Eastern Automotive Inc., NC(Four-Oaks) 1-919-934-4101

Axl, w/diff lock, 4.30 ratio- PULLED OK $350 Robbin's Auto Parts USA-NC(Henrietta) 1-800-726-0275

4.30 ABS W DIFF LK $350 Pike 27 Auto Parts USA-KY(Butler) 1-800-354-0506


I didn't see any local to AZ, but it would be worth it to be w/o the runner to save $900 over the cost of a new one.

[GSGALLANT]

i'm pretty sure that if you have 4.30's, then you also have a rear e-locker.

I wish that was the case, Bamachem, but you can have 4.30's without the locker. That's what I've got on my '02 4Runner (If someone with 4.30's and a locked rear wants to trade with me, I'd be all about that! :D)

[MTL_4runner]

I wish that was the case, Bamachem, but you can have 4.30's without the locker. That's what I've got on my '02 4Runner (If someone with 4.30's and a locked rear wants to trade with me, I'd be all about that! :D)


Yeah I've definately seen a few 4.30's that were not e-locked either.

GS, I totally agree with you that the best option on the dif would be a rebuild because then you know what you're getting more or less. The only way I'd risk a 3rd member from a boneyard would be if I got it fairly cheap (say $100-200) and even more preferable, if I knew who's vehicle it came out of (ie someone selling it to upgrade to a locker)

[AZyakima]

On the road again..... Final update

Thanks to ZUK! :thumbup: Zuk if you don't know him is a genious gear surgeon located in our backyard. I picked up the hardware from Marlin Crawler's and he did more than his share helping me to get back on the road again. I appreciate it Zuk if you're out there reading this and to those that helped me get his information as well. Cost was spot on for the job compared to the mechanic's quote also, so Im a happy camper (thinking rim lakes w/the boat will do).

Great site!

[Mike-in-WV]

Before any of that was done I would drain it and flush it and drain it again and then fill it with Valvoline synthetic and drive it awhile.If you haven't changed it in all this time then the fluid could be just wore out and water sure didn't help anything but it doesn't mean that the gears are shot. I would insist on seeing the gears first and pay attention to what you see in the drained fluid.Mike