poly performance rear coilover bracket into 3rd gen T4R

[jrock]

quick link to the instructions: http://www.polyperformance.com/instructions/PPM-5001.pdf

Any thoughts on incorporating this into a 3rd Gen 4rnr? Big chunk aye? I would probably have to extend all the links...move gas tank?

Im still leaning towards Chaplains design, but he sent me this to ponder.

[Good Times]

Updated bad url...

It's definitely possible but then you'd run into problems of the coilover or shock in your case rubbing against the tire. Your original shocks are inboard so unless you're performing some major transformation it might be a bit much?

What's your ultimate goal or purpose? Care to share so we have a better understanding as to what you're trying to accomplish?

[jrock]

Again, im leaning towards Chaplains build.

http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88480

Extending rear travel without going thru the bed, so that the rear can hang with the LT front. Living in SoCal, offroad use is more ocotillo desert washes, fire roads, barstow whoops, less extreme 4x4 trails...as opposed to major rock crawling. Otherwise Id go for a setup like bruceTS.

Chaplain has stated if hed do it over again, hed make room for coilovers...2.0, as they are easier to tune. His setup with 2.0 bypass may work.

Not sure the extra travel bruce gets as compared to chaplains is worth all the work.

making room for 12-14" dual rate coilover w/o cutting into bed is the dream. Just have to fig if a 2.0 would rub with spacer and if links would still work, stock gas tank etc.

[Good Times]

The easiest way to test the links are by removing the shocks and coils and see what the droop looks like. Measure the distance between the lower shock mount and your proposed upper shock mount to determine what size shock will fit.

Work backwards on your evolution of the rear. For the amount of work you're putting in I recommend that you just do a custom 4 link rear setup :) I did it on my 4th gen and so far I've pretty happy w/ the overall results. I'm still years from figuring out the right combo of valving and coil spring rates but I'll figure it out one day.

I think you'll be much happier if you do something extreme to keep up with the front LT. No way in hell are you going to able to keep up w/ the front w/o significant work on the rear.

Good luck :)

[jrock]

have you posted pics of the 4 link? or email them to me at jrsering@hotmail.com

thx

[Good Times]

Here's some pix of the build:
read me (http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=2318.150)

Here's the exact same build w/o all of the thread chatter:
read me (http://www.chaosedition.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=section&layout=blog&id=11&Itemid=65)

Some changes... The original lower links were not up to snuff so they're thicker. It all comes at a cost though but it works for now. The setup I have on the links took me a long time to commit to. I had the math all figured out but just couldn't commit myself to cutting it all up until all hell broke loose on the front end. Guess it was bound to happen lol

I'd find more pix but I don't have a lot of action shots. Been a slow build since it's an expensive build. Wish I had unlimited funds and time to just sit in the garage to work on it.

[97kurt]

I'd much rather try to squeeze a bypass shock in there and still run coils in their factory spots. After riding in Joels 4rnr a bunch of times I think its the way to go.

Lance, did you ever post your 4-link calc numbers for your rear setup? If so can you point me in the right direction?

[jrock]

Got a link to "joel" s 4runner

goodtimes, not sure your "read me" links are working?

may just be my work computer

[97kurt]

Fixed Lance's link http://www.chaosedition.com/index.php

Joel's build is over on another site. http://toyota120.com/forum/showpost.php?p=41144&postcount=52

[Good Times]

linked fixed... I'll find the numbers and also try to reference the 4link calc for ya

thanks!

[Good Times]

Here's the Pirate's url :::

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204893

[jrock]

I agree Goodtimes, loosen the spare tire position is a drawback. But you can keep the stock gas tank. I guess it would be like Joel's, would need a rear bumper with rack or one of those hitch racks.

Im wondering if these would hold me over for a while until I get time and money to fab it.

http://www.lightracing.com/v1b/includes/instructions/25746_INS.pdf

[Good Times]

I'm not big on the "temp" solution idea. A lot of people do it but you end up spending way too much more cuz you're not gonna be remotely satisfied by the results anyway. I just bit the bullet and just waited until I had funds to buy everything and built it. During the wait I ended up breaking and losing a coil a few times so it was good thing I had the funds ready when I was just about to kick the whole project to the curb!

I say save up even though you're gonna be unhappy w/ the current configuration. It's not like it's the end of the world and you're gonna hate the performance anyway. It's better than stock so you're in a better spot... just need something better to match the front. :)

Save save save and then build build build! Build it right the first time so you're not spending an awful amount of money on pocket change stuff.

Kurt I'll have to dig the numbers for you. I don't have it on this new machine so I'll have to locate the old figures.

[jrock]

Goodtimes, what size coilover are u running back there? Im surprised it does not rub your tire, and also that u did all that work and kept the stock axle....Ive been under the impression that I would need a wider axle to fit coilovers on mine without going thru the bed and cutting into the frame....

Engage still favors cantilever over cutting into frame...safer at 60 in the dezert as opposed to crawling over rocks. makes sense.

Looks like only cantilever and or chaplains and joels would allow gas tank to stay in place...which is not a great place..ha!

[Good Times]

I was only able to fit 12" CO due to the limited space I was working with. I designed the links to be able to articulate significantly more than what the current 12" CO can handle so once I decide to scrap the 12" CO I'll just cut thru the cabin. In the meantime I'm content w/ the current configuration.

The tire doesn't rub only because I had to add a wheel spacer to accommodate for the CO. The good thing about the 4th gens are that TMC changed the design of the rear shock by placing them outboard instead of inboard like your 4runner. This helped so that I didn't have to swap the rear axle w/ a wider one rather just a quick wheel spacer would do the fix. As for your situation I'm not sure if a CO would fit outboard like mine. I would think anything is possible with lots of modifying but you'll need to measure everything a million times before committing to anything. When I did mine I had no idea whether or not it'll fit so I had to measure the rear many times to make sure I was doing the right thing. That's partly why it took me almost 1 yr to finally do it cuz I was very hesitant on doing something so extreme.

One thing you can do is swap out the rear axle for the newer 4runner/taco axle since it is wider. This will help give you more room to work between the tire and frame. You won't have to cut the frame but you'll still want to do some calculations cuz I'm not 100% familiar w/ your application/configuration.

My initial goals were to use the new Tundra axle in the rear but funds dried up that I couldn't. Going that route was going to be the best as it gave me a wider rear which I can better match the front and a bigger third member :)

Some food for thought!

I'd say do some research and just think outside the box. Work backwards on solving the problem. That's the way I did it. I just built around making sure the rear tires were the same width (or close enough) to the front so I knew I had to widen the axle or add wheel spacers. From there I started to measure out how much room I had to work w/ inside the wheel-well. Every time I tried I got variations on numbers but after doing it many times over I came to a conclusion that I would "barely" fit so I just said ok now to start designing how it's going to "barely" fit and build the 4 link with the right calculations.

So if you're dead set on building the rear out like crazy I'd work backwards since those are your constraints and then decide what applications best applies cuz not all applications will work.

Go get em!