5VZFE 3.4L V6 Rebuild

[ubermoto]

So, now that I got the engine with the blown head gasket out of our 4Runner (and the new one in - running great!!!), it's time to start planning the rebuild. I just called the machine shop and was quoted a grand total of $1600 for the whole enchilada which includes:

Head work:
Full valve job
Reset valve lash
Deck head
Hot Dip Clean

Block work:
Cylinder Bore
Install Rod Bushings
Grind Crank
Hot Dip Clean
Freeze Plugs

New Parts:
ITM Rebuild kit to include
All gaskets (incl MLS HG)
Pistons/Rings
Main Bearings
Large Rod Bearings
Thrust Bearings
Timing Belt Kit (incl water pump, idlers, etc.)

I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but that's basically it...

So here's my question... With nearly 200,000 miles on the engine, how much of this stuff is needed? The engine was running strong prior to the HG failure. It wasn't driven hardly at all after the HG failure - the oil and antifreeze was still separate - no milkshake. No overheating. No strange noises or any other sign of problems prior to the HG failure. Bottom line is that I'm thinking about just repairing the head gasket and skipping most of the machine work. I'd still get all the head work done and its due for the timing belt stuff...

What would you do?

Thanks guys!

Cheers, :drink:

Jeremy

[troyboy162]

do you have a use for rebuilding the motor? seems like it wouldnt be the motor you would want given another engine failure because of the high milage. but if youve got plenty of space to store it, how much for just the head work and timing belt kit? hard to justifiy too much money into a old motor to save for the slim event of another engine falure (assuming its not going into anotehr vehical)

[ubermoto]

It will be going into our 97 Tacoma which also has close to 200,000 miles...

[Okie81]

Of couse, those all good points of a quality engine rebuild, but maybe a little overkill for a blown HG. Is there a reason to dig into the short block?

[CJM]

I say repair the HG and go from there. With all the cash your spending, a used block would be preferable to rebuild.

[Obi..]

I say repair the HG and go from there. With all the cash your spending, a used block would be preferable to rebuild.


Rebuild it the right way so it'll last just as long, that way you'll spend less given the overall expected lifespan. IE..long term investment versus a short term fix ignoring issues you won't see unless you do the teardown.

[YotaFun]

This is what I would do,
get the motor stripped down and orginze everything and start takin some measurments.
See if they are in within factory spec or how far off they are and go from there.
The 3.4l is a strong motor.
I would at least go with the new heads like MTL-4Runner and Mastercox did when they did there head gaskets.

Of ourselves new timing belt and water pump, maybe new injectors as well.

New gaskets all the way around, I would give Rafa at northridge Toyota a call, he can get you a discount on the gasket package.

Just my .02

[BruceTS]

Easiest way to tell if the short block needs rebuilding is look at the cylinders after the heads are off. If it wasn't using oil and there are signs of cross hatch pattern still on the cylinder walls, then I wouldn't tear it down. Check the heads to make sure they are flat and install new head gaskets. No need to waste money when it's not needed, the lower should be good for over 500k, knowing Toyotas reputation.

[ubermoto]

the lower should be good for over 500k, knowing Toyotas reputation.


My favorite response so far... My previous opinion of Toyotas has faltered a bit due to this failed head gasket. I guess they fixed it with the MLS HG. Does anybody know when they started installing those? Any way I could pull the serial number from my block to find out? The date on our Tacoma is 4/97. If I could tell it had the MLS, I wouldn't be as worried about it... I've tried just looking at it, but it's hard to get a good view. I know the old graphite HGs would stick out from between the head and block in spots.

Since time isn't a factor (yet), I've considered at least pulling the crank and getting it polished. If I do that, I might as well check clearances to see what I've got. Then make a decision on how far to go.

I've also considered going the JDM route, but that has its unknowns as well...

[Obi..]

Long reply for you, good info though!! IF the original engine, the block # is available and coded to the vin #. It should correlate back if a good dealer looks it all up.

FWIR the MLS's should have started with the mid '95 production, meaning the '96 model year. Keep in mind though there was the recall over headgaskets being installed incorrectly at the factory (actually upside down). So IMHO that is one key thing to watch for no matter what the local dealership might tell you.

An example is even with my 3.0 being a '95, and supposedly past the recall, I saved the gaskets after we rebuilt my upper end . I took it to a dealership I trusted who'd been fighting for corporate to give them the "OK" to recall it and handed them over for inspection since they were OE and when it first was an issue it had less than the requisite 70k miles, they reimbursed me for the expense, they might do the same for this if you have the gaskets and evidence if they were installed wrong.

Search the web and other forums for this issue and know what they should look like before tearing too far in and ruining a chance at a legitimate refund/suport, know what I mean?

:D

[EDIT]If doing the crank, before you also get too far in, check the end for any wobble, this is also an issue I have seen up through the '98's and although not a major issue with normally aspirated, it becomes an issue with a s/c installed and can also attribute to premature wear on the belts bc of pulley wobble as a result.

Last but not least, don't be afraid to go and call Toyota Corporate and inquire if a dealer seems to be evasive and playing games, some franchises will do like they did to me at first and deny responsibility as it then becomes a labor claim for them and ties up labor turns/stacking and overall profit. Lord know's why they think like that, as good service brings loyalty and long term profits instead. :shake:

[MTL_4runner]

Easiest way to tell if the short block needs rebuilding is look at the cylinders after the heads are off. If it wasn't using oil and there are signs of cross hatch pattern still on the cylinder walls, then I wouldn't tear it down. Check the heads to make sure they are flat and install new head gaskets. No need to waste money when it's not needed, the lower should be good for over 500k, knowing Toyotas reputation.


X2

I totally agree with what Bruce mentioned but I would definately have the heads redone at the machine shop while they are off. It's alot of work to get to the point where you can do the HG and maybe $500 absolute max to have the heads redone (steam cleaned, checked for flatness, pressure tested, new valve seals, valve job, cam clearances set, etc). Make sure to use the same machine shop your local Toyota dealer does for any head work, VERY IMPORTANT. An unknowledgable machine shop can royally screw things up for your rebuild.

If you are losing any compression, most likely it will be from the heads and not the bottom end. You can see in the thread where I tore the motor down what the cross hatching should look like on a motor that is still good to go. Also pay attention to my thread for parts too because I did experiment with aftermarket parts but found them not to be of the same quality as I would expect for my rebuilds. If the motor didn't overheat badly, then you can reuse the headbolts too.