Mountain bike suggestions? Updated: Got one!

[Robinhood4x4]

I'm getting this crazy idea to get back into mountain biking but I've been out of it for so many years I don't know what all the cool kids are riding these days.

Originally, I wanted a hard tail because back in my day I rode full rigid frames uphill both ways so I figured I could just try this new hobby with a cheap hardtail and see if I take to it. But after talking with my crazy downhill racing co-worker, he's got me thinking about full suspension, plus, I've always wanted a good mountain bike.

There's no way I want to buy new, this will be a craigslist thing. I'm thinking $500-600, which is a step up for me because my original price range was $200-300. My friend says to avoid the older bikes because the shocks will need to be rebuilt but there's no rebuild kits out there for them.

So what should I be looking for in a bike?

[mastacox]

I would look for full suspension, 4" travel front and rear minimum, and disc brakes. You should be able to find that in your price range.

[Robinhood4x4]

Why the disc brakes? Are they that much better than rim brakes?

[CJM]

Discs stop much better imho.

However a full setup bike like your talking is gonna run about 800+. I would get one with just a set of front shocks and rim brakes till you are ready to upgrade. I myself have a trek setup that way, like it alot.

[paddlenbike]

I think full suspension is a good choice. I have a super nice hardtail and have only ridden it a few times since getting the full suspension...the only reason I ride it is I feel guilty for letting it hang in the garage but when I am riding it I wish I was on the full suspension bike.

My suggestion is to get a cross country style mountain bike to keep the weight down, I only enjoy the heavy downhill bikes when going downhill (obviously). My full suspension cross country bike is only 0.3 lbs heavier than my aluminum Rocky Mountain hardtail.

[4x4mike]

Your price range is what is going to limit you. If I didn't have a lot to spend I'd get a hardtail with rim brakes. Unless you find a screaming deal on a full suspension with disc brakes you're going to end up with a heavy cheap clunker.

What type of riding to you plan on doing? I do most of my trail riding on a hardtail single speed. Sure there are a lot of uphills and bumps but my ss doesn't limit me unless there are sustained steep climbs. I have a XC full suspension but the only reason I got it was because I got a deal and I think it will work better for racing than my hardtail.

Nice shock, even old ones, can be rebuilt and there are kits to do so. Cheap old forks and a lot of lower end rear shocks will be harder to find kits for and it would be cheaper to replace the fork/shock. I race a, '03 SID race carbon and by most standards it's old but I can get any parts I need. Special little parts like linkages and busings for older FS bikes can be harder. I worked in a shop for 9 years and we were a Proflex/K2 dealer and those bikes would need bushings all the time. If and when we could get them they were very expensive and would only last a short while.

If you're doing up and down riding (not big DH stuff) and shorter rides (3-4 hours) a hard tail will work just fine. More downhill or faster riding over rougher terrain will warrant an FS bike but keep in mind more $$ will get you a better setup. I've raced my old hardtail in 2 downhill races and did pretty decent but would have done better and been less beat up with a DH setup. To me cycling is about pushing yourself and getting worked. For me, if it get's too easy it looses it's appeal and I might as well buy a Playstation or something to take up my time.

Post up what you find if you want help. I've owned/own many bikes and (like others here) have experience in these things. Hell I've got half a garage of parts to rebuild something if need be.

[Okie81]

I'm going to have to disagree on the disc brakes. Don't get me wrong, they're braking power is excellent, but I'm not yet sold on their durability. I've seen enough bent and warped rotors to know that they're pretty vunerable to damage on the trail and I've replaced a lot or rotors because they've hit rocks and boulders as well. Also, taking off the wheels in transport can be a PITA compared to conventional brakes. In my experience, Disc brakes really shine in wet conditions such as Pacific Northwest, Coastal California, etc., because they grip a whole lot better than linear-pull brakes when they get wet (and a whole lot better than v-brakes).

So I guess what I'm saying is don't be too fast to jump on the disc brake train. They're good, but linear-pull brakes can are very capable and, if setup properly, can provide all the stopping power you'll ever need.

[4x4mike]

Linear pull brakes are plenty strong for most riders. I have them on my race bike because they are much lighter than most discs. Plus on a disc equipped bike you have to have disc hubs which weight more than regular hubs (unless you go high end. XT rear disc hub is 1 pound). Higher end disc setups (rotor, caliper, hubs, etc) are lighter than entry level setups.

Having said that my all around trail bike (SS) has hyraulic disc brakes (Shimano 4 piston with Chris King Hubs) and they work great. They are super powerful, quiet, maintenance free (haven't done anything to them for 6 years) and haven't given me any trouble. I've raced them and taken them on week long trips and all they require is a hose down every now and then.

[Robinhood4x4]

Is rebuilding a rear shock something I can do or is it something that needs to be done by a bike shop? I'm kind of eying this 2002 gary fisher sugar 4+ which has a cane creek rear shock. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/bik/1599019356.html

To be honest, I'm not really sold on disk brakes, especially for my level of interest currently. Maybe if I really get into it, but for now, I think I can skimp on it. They certainly look cooler though.

Mostly, this is going to be for single track, cross country stuff.

[BruceTS]

He makes some really nice bikes......

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=38604

[4x4mike]

Is rebuilding a rear shock something I can do or is it something that needs to be done by a bike shop? I'm kind of eying this 2002 gary fisher sugar 4+ which has a cane creek rear shock. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/bik/1599019356.html

To be honest, I'm not really sold on disk brakes, especially for my level of interest currently. Maybe if I really get into it, but for now, I think I can skimp on it. They certainly look cooler though.

Mostly, this is going to be for single track, cross country stuff.




That's a good bike and a good price as that bike retailed for quite a lot. That rear shock is rebuildable and Cane Creek or whoever makes the shock (I forget) still works on them. If not they can be had for cheap on ebay. I think those cloud 9 shocks retailed for over $400 when they first came out. They are nice and light and work well for the low travel sugars.

[garrett]

i got an entry level bike a couple years ago, a specialized rockhopper.

its a hardtail... i wish it was full suspension, but i just cant afford it right now, so i deal. but it can get a little painful at times.

i wish i had gotten disc brakes. i thought that i didn't need them, but i have wanted them almost ever since i bought the bike. my friend got a bike the same time i did, with disc brakes, and they just work better. it really doesn't take much water or mud to realize it.

as for damaging the rotors... you'll just have to ride better :flipoff:

[4x4mike]

Brakes are a drag.

[Obi..]

*Sugar's have issues w/ fatigue around the rear linkage assembly frame points. Run away, run away. Considered your budget a little more though?

Here's the best budget rule..Everytime you ride, whether through initial purchase amount, or necessity to upgrade low level parts on a low range frame, you will spend, over the course of say 5 years, between $5 to $10 a ride, period. Your budget touches that part, but what about snacks? patch kits? Service and repair parts? See where I am going here? Honestly if I were you I'd consider the $2000 range of introductory level full suspension bikes first. Buying a new bike saves you repair part availability and warranty issues. A used bike, well, you never know do you.

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?sid=10FSRxc&eid=4950&menuItemId=9248

Better yet..
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=46578&eid=4950&menuItemId=9248

Seriously go out and try one of the new StumpJumper FSR or FSR-XC's. Have a look at their site and find the nearest Pro-Fit shop and have them swap out stems for you to try different fits on the same size frame, then consider dropping down a frame size and closely duplicate the best fit. I've started out some of Stanford and Berkeley's best riders using this method and bike with great success for their use in both XC as well as the other disciplines. Please, just go and try one out and get back to me. Let me know how it felt, I'll happily provide fit and feel feedback and help you out, I just can't give you a price deal.

South Mountain and Bicycle Haus are your local pro level certified Fit and Test Ride locations that my rep suggested: http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCDealerLoc.jsp?cmd=query&address=Phoenix,%20Az&countryCode=US&clientLng=%20-112.0740373&clientLat=33.4483771

If you have any issues with either place, let me know, "I know people.".

[Okie81]

^^^Yes! If I was to get a new Stumpy, 2010 would be the year to get one. They got rid of that rocker-arm rear suspension and went back to the 4-bar style (similar to the Santa Cruz Blur LT). I rode both and I must say the 2010 is Cadillac!

[Obi..]

ohhhh, he said Blur LT, the other bike I was just talking to my coach about since he's shopping too. :D

[Robinhood4x4]

That Sugar is gone, so on with the shopping.

There's a stump jumper FSR, 2002 that's for sale from a shop.
http://bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2002&Brand=Specialized&Model=Stumpjumper+FSR+XC&Type=bike

What do you guys think? I went and rode it today after work and thought it was mechanically sound. I also rode a new stumpjumper and didn't notice much difference other than it being more plush, but then it was only around the parking lot.

[Okie81]

That's a great bike if the price is right. They sold the early FSR stumpjumpers with all kinds of different components(not as uniform as they are now) so check out the gears, fork, headset, etc.

[4x4mike]

X2. If the price is right it'll be a good bike. IMO they are heavy but that's just me. If weight isn't a big issue then swoop it up. Is the bike used and the shop is selling it or is it old stock?

[paddlenbike]

I rode both and I must say the 2010 is Cadillac!


So it is overpriced, looks distasteful, handles like a wet pig in a mud barn and breaks down often? haha, sorry, I just never really understood that saying. I have nothing further to add at this time. : :hillbill:
http://imcdb.org/images/040/038.jpg

[Obi..]

:lol:

But Ken, sure that 3 speed Caddy can handle the climb up Lavezzola, but what about Pauley Creek, or 3rd Divide? *Currently cc'ing that pic to Greg W. just to give him S.A.G. :D

C'Mon Steve, what are you planning to try out this weekend, anything? At least that will shut us up for a little bit. :D

On the BikePedia FSR, NICE!! You'd be surprised the stuff my rep's found in shop storage rooms for us over the years. that model was good for over 3 years and the same one I beat the living crap out of. Even if it's a closeout special, it is still a decent spec and still carries the warranty. *Be sure to verify that it is indeed a "New" or "Closeout" sale, and get it in writing.

[Robinhood4x4]

Oh shoot, I forgot to give you guys the price. $700 for the stumpjumper

[Obi..]

Oh shoot, I forgot to give you guys the price. $700 for the stumpjumper


UMMM, need I even reiterate this...

H.F.Y. Get it!! Swap out the tires to the next size up...give me a minute to d.c. what Proto's I was running last season that worked really well everywhere..the reason I say this is it's a guarantee that by now whatever was on that bike is rotted from age or ozone exposure from any flourescent lighting in the place. The shop will get a credit for the original value of the original tires and the labor to swap them, if they're a shop in good standing w/ Specialized, from their rep as it is a part of their quality control program, just pay whatever difference there is. I.O.W. Unless they're tires from the last two seasons, do not trust them b/c they still "Look OK to me.". They will rot out w/i 3 months of use if aged too far.

[EDIT]Eskar Controls, 2BLISS 26x2.2 should fit, if not then the 2.0's will for sure. I'm runing them tubed w/ a little Stans in for good measure.

Also, if you like, for a small amount w/ shipping included, I'll even throw in a piece of autographed memorabilia and the 4 spare bottles of Stans I have unused from this season. ;)

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_PWt8rBL1E2A/S5BqrquIc_I/AAAAAAAAAFY/3K1Ke3XtlRs/s800/IMG_0001.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_PWt8rBL1E2A/S5Bqs0L34NI/AAAAAAAAAFc/H_liAu7kksA/s800/IMG_0002.JPG

[Robinhood4x4]

Oh, it's not new. It's very much used.

But, I think I'm going to turn this one down because I just found out it only has 3" of travel. I've been told that for the terrain around here it'd be best to get something in the 5-6" range, so I'll compromise down to 4" but that's it.

[mastacox]

SO I was poking around PHX Craigslist, did you see this listing?
Haro bike for sale - $500 (east mesa) (http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/bik/1627418870.html)

This guy might take $600 cash, if it's still around. F&R 6" travel is nothing to sneeze at:
2008 Haro Extreme X6 MTB - $700 (Chandler) (http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/bik/1627158440.html)

Might be able to talk him down if it's still around:
kona coiler with rock shox boxxer fork. for sale $700 (http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/bik/1618326850.html)

I'm not sure how tall you are, I was just looking around.

[Robinhood4x4]

I saw the top 2 but not the last one. Should I be worried about bobbing up and down too much with these older bikes and single pivot bikes? I know I said I want a lot of travel, but at the same time I'm worried about pedal bob with a 6" travel bike. Am I worrying too much?

My height is about 5' 9" or so. 17.5 seemed to fit me perfectly.

[mastacox]

Well that Kona coiler is definitely a downhill bike, not a x-c. I would say it all depends on the trails you plan on riding, but a long travel suspension like that will have a good bit of pedal bob probably.

[Okie81]

I saw the top 2 but not the last one. Should I be worried about bobbing up and down too much with these older bikes and single pivot bikes? I know I said I want a lot of travel, but at the same time I'm worried about pedal bob with a 6" travel bike. Am I worrying too much?
A lot of rear shocks have a lockout option, that will rid any pedal bobbing issues when you're going uphill.
Here's my 2002 after a little mud:
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a125/joshuakin/BIKE7.jpg
It doesn't have as much travel as you're looking for, but for being a Specialized, it's a great all-around bike :hillbill:

[Robinhood4x4]

Well, I ran across this little gem yesterday on craigslist and picked it up today for $700! It's a 2007 Gary Fisher HiFi. There's a few scratches here and there and the brakes squeak but overall, I couldn't find anything wrong with it. The guy bought it new in 2008 and he even gave me the original receipt and manual. He also threw in a trunk bike rack and the shoes that go along with the clipless pedals. Yes, I'm wearing somebody else's shoes, but they're fairly new and getting thrown in the washing machine first.

The components aren't the best, with Deore derailleurs and avid cable disk brakes, but they seem to work just fine. Maybe those will be the things that get upgraded later. The shock and fork provide 5" of travel and both can be locked out.

Now I just need to get back into shape and get used to clipless pedals. I'm so used to cages that my first instinct is to pull straight back instead of twisting out.

Thanks for everybody's help!


http://www.robinhood4x4.com/UY/mtb/hifi3m.JPG

http://www.robinhood4x4.com/UY/mtb/hifi1m.JPG

http://www.robinhood4x4.com/UY/mtb/hifi2m.JPG

http://www.robinhood4x4.com/UY/mtb/hifi4m.JPG

[habanero]

Nice! No problem on the deore, like you said, wear 'em out, get what you want. Loosening the tension on your clipless pedals so they're almost too easy to pop out of can help when you're learning, then tighten them back up as you become used to releasing them. It won't take long.

[Okie81]

Nice bike, looks like you got a good deal, Manitou forks are tough. Lets us know how it rides.

[Crinale]

i realize im a bit late to this, but nice find! dont worry bout upgrading the shifters and brakes for now... just wait til they either break or just dont cut it. Those brakes look like bb5's, is that right? if so, the only issues i have with those is the pads wear out kinda fast (i do some crazy single track/DH for a hard tail), and they are sometimes hard to find replacements for because they are the only Avid brake to use those pads... all the others (bb7, entire juicy line) all use the same pad that is different from the bb5...

otherwise, very nice find! Any updates on how it rides?