fitting 315/75/16 tires on a 3rd gen 4runner

[troyboy162]

ok i this will basicaly be a pictorial since we all know its just a matter of displacing or removing sheet metal to make this work.
some things to consider:
- vehical is a 96 with stock bump stops on all corners
-allpro UCA
- front fire wall already clearenced for 33" tires previous to first picture
- *vehical has one inch body lift*
- 1/4 inch spacers were installed but not nesssary for free spin on front tires
- using stock 96 4runner 16x7 wheels
- grinder and hand sledge were used
- no holes were cut
- rear apears to not need any metal work read bottom updates
- driver side needs most work

heres a base line where we started. major rubbing as full stuff but remeber this was already clearenced for 33" tires
http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww234/troyboy162/P1030317-1.jpg

here is our second problem...the spindle arm will contact the tire when the carcass is flexing offroad. i used 1/4 inch spacers to hopefully get rid of the contact
http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww234/troyboy162/P1030324.jpg
http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww234/troyboy162/P1030318.jpg

here the firewall is almost completed. paint fire wall, test clearence, apply hammer(and minimal grinder) where paint shows rubs. repete untill finished. you can see that not surprizingly the firewall has been beat back about 1 inch. everything is now flush with the rubber plug on the right and radioused upward smoothly. glued seems will split and the hammer is used to influence the direction of the metal to yeild. slowly and steadily make adjustments along the entire seam to maintain the radious instead of to much to one area at a time.
http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww234/troyboy162/P1030323.jpg

prep area with self etching rust preventing primer and seal with ruberized undercoating paying attention to any seams that are now seperated. refit fenderwells and flares as needed. note that the bolt in the center of the picture is set back further then the seam to the left
http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww234/troyboy162/P1030327.jpg

[kregg]

Troy - I'm running 1.25" wheel spacers and wheels with a 4" backspacing... I still get a little rub up front on my sliders when under compression/full lock. Also I have a 2" BL... Looks to be about the same amount of trimming I had to do. And my tires will rub my rear bumper, but it's just a fuzz, and I have extended bump stops to help keep it from getting too extreme.

[troyboy162]

yeah i was hoping to keep the stock backspacing so that i wouldnt have to remove as much material but 315 almost touches the spindle arm...well...that and im too cheap to buy new rims lol

[troyboy162]

update...removed 3/4 of an inch from the bottom forward edge of the rear fender wells. my testing showed it cleared but under stress the play in the linkage must allow the tire to come forward. ill update pictures later.

[kregg]

Troy - Just F.Y.I. - I took my wheel spacers off of my truck and it has actually improved my rubbing issues. I can now get full lock without getting into the fender wells. On the trail I hit late last night, I can still get it to scrub if I hit a rut/bump hard enough. With my wheels, I do not contact the frame (16x8 - 4" B.S.). I still have enough room between my sidewall and A-Arm/Spindle to fit my hand between the two. Also note that this is a "street pressure", I'm not sure of the effects if I were to air-down. Which tires did you go with? My DuraTracs may not be as aggressive...

[troyboy162]

yeah the spacers will only hurt the clearance against the firewall. long travel can help a bit to bring it all out further, but spacers just shove it further into the firewall at turn. without your spacers you still are 1/2 an inch or so further away from the spindle arm then i am with stock rims and the 1/4 spacer.

i have km2's but there sidewall lugs arnt very big. i still need to check if im rubbing the spindle arm at trail presure.

[Scuba]

Do you think you're frame rub hindered any forward progression ?

[troyboy162]

nah ive had frame rub since i first went 33". it would be nice to have full steering but when it counts i shouldnt use full steering anyhow because of the CV's. like those snake canyons we were in this weekend. i was against the frame on some of those turns but straightened out if i had to give it any sort of throttle. it would make parking lots easier though

[Crinale]

where are the full truck pictures?? i wanna see this. Also, you REALLY need to update your avatar :-P

[troyboy162]

hahah heres the latest one. i dont know why but steve keeps getting pics of me looking stressed while i figure out where im going lol
http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/ww234/troyboy162/ttora%20calico/P1030365.jpg

[Scuba]

I'm really hoping 4" backspacing will clear my uca's with a 12.5 tire, need to read up on that issue..

[troyboy162]

id guess you will rub under droop. my wheels are aparently 4.6ish back spacing and my 11.4 inch wide 33" rubbed at droop on stock UCA.

12.5 tires will stick out another .5 inches and your tires are .6 inches further away from the UCA then mine were so id bet you will be in the same boat.

[Crinale]

mine is a 2nd gen, but my tires (33x12.5) don't rub on the control arms at all with my 4" backspaced rims. they do however rub all over my inner fender wells :-P

[Scuba]

Rubbing under full droop won't bother me, it's the rubbing while on the road that would get to me..

[kregg]

Not exactly sure how wide my tire is Steve, but with my 4" backspaced wheels I clear the A-arms fine. I'll try to get some measurements/pics by the weekend.

[Scuba]

How wide is yer rim kregg ? 8 or 10? I'm going with an 8" wide I believe

[kregg]

8"

[4x4mike]

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42453

[troyboy162]

yea im on there facebook page now...they broke the news there first...after i dumped money into new tires....