rear drum brake change- PITA???

[Osiris]

I think my rear brakes are gone. Ebrake doesn't really work and I have a feeling I am running through front pads pretty darn fast. I can change my pads on all my cars, bikes super quick on the disc style, but haven't gotten into drums except for my college roommate's big conversion van. It was a pain with a bunch of wacking with a hammer to get the drum off and time spent looking for a random spring that went flailing about.

Is the yota rear drums a pain in the ass to change in my '95?? Can I do it just as quick as the disc brakes? Tips/tricks that are not in the FSM??

[corax]

not too bad, but definately not gonna get it done as quick as disc brakes. Best advice: do one side at a time or take a good picture before you take any springs off. Second best bit of advice: spend a few buck on a drum brake spring tool like this
http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/280.gif

or this

http://evergreen-rentals.com/images/brakespringpliers.jpg

[4x4mike]

On big old domestics the drums are difficult to get off especially if they've been on for a while, have had mud in them and if the pads are quite worn. Here is what I would do. Jack up the vehicle, blah, blah, remove the wheel. Turn the adjusters and/or disconnect the parking brake. My '99 has 2 threaded holes in the front of the drum. Find the correct sized metric bolt (for some reason I think it's an M8X1.0 or 1.5)and thread them in. The bolts act like a puller and will at least get the drum started in the off position. I second the picture taking. For the most part when I've had my brakes off (wheel cylinder replacement, several axle seal replacements, bearing replacement and axle swap) I make it look like it did before I took it apart. If you have to beat or pry on the drum too much something catching on it and try to figure that out before proceeding.

[CJM]

1. Bang the crud out of the drum with a large hammer, striking it in a cross type pattern on the face of the drum.

2. the tools pictured will help, you can pick up a really nice set from harbor freight or pepboys, etc for about 10-20 bucks. You want the spring tool (2nd pic) and the tool to remove the springs that hold the shoes to the backing plate.

3. If your drums are really worn out you probably need new ones. You might find this out when you do it all and dont replace the drums and it shudders when you brake.

4. Adjusting toyota drums is SUPER easy, I use a really long screwdriver but those adjusting tools work well too. You want to adjust it so the inspection port shows the shoe within like 1mm or so of the drum face. With the truck out of gear (N) and the rear in the air the tire should spin about 1 revolution or so.

[Obi..]

My brake drama thread's around here somewhere, it isn't just you, but yeah, it might be time for shoes and drums. On the other hand, with the 2nd-Gen 4Runners the factory adjusters are pretty much useless IMHO. Don't be surprised if you open things up and there is still some usable show left.

To make it easier to remove the drums: Support the rear of the truck and chock the front wheels. Go under the passenger side with a 12mm wrench and deep-well socket and just loosen the jam-nut on the e-brack bracket spindle bolt. This will slack the two rear cables enough to often times give you the freedom of movement to clear the drum easier.

IMHO, every two to three oil changes go in and readjust the rear adjusters for optimal operation. The best combination of setup I have found is when at most I get 5 "clicks" out of the e-brake lever and no drag on the drums.

[Osiris]

5 "clicks" out of the e-brake lever???? whoah!! I think mine goes to the back seat it comes out so far. I guess it's time to change those shoes. Only been 15 years since it's been done. Did I mention it is a '95, so yeah, they're probably the originals.

[CJM]

FWIW I changed my shoes, drums and adjusted everything but my E-brake comes out way far. There is an adjustment for it under the truck too, but since I never use mine I left it alone.