Supercharger: URD Kit Issue???

[Stevo3]

So..... I got a new one for you URD users out there. Maybe one of you can help me out. Im still having issues with my AFR's, the AFR's fluxuate. Just cruising or even at idle they run between 13.5 - 15.9ish. When ever I would go into boost the AFR's didnt change even though I have the fuel/timing activated at 0.5 psi boost, except when floored. Then it would run extremly rich, like 9.0 - 10.0 AFR. This has been going on for a year and a half or so. Up until about a month ago, when I hit even 0.1 boost my AFR's get extremly lean (and even floored), like 20.0 AFR. Yet if I cruise in vacuum it still runs between 13.5 - 15.9 as stated above.

Im kinda stumpted and alway have been with this URD kit. Even had a tuner help play with it with no luck. Im kinda doubting the sensor on the LM1 is bad because it seems to be working fine while not going into boost. I still drive the truck around but dont go into boost what so ever. Thank god its flat every in AZ unless going though the mountains.

Im kinda thinking it could be either the FTC, Fuel Pump and or the Fuel Regulator. I have already change my spark plugs, pvc valvle, check valves and cleaned the mass air flow sensor including air filter. Also cleaned out the throttle body.

Any suggestions would be greatful.

Also to the other that know me, sorry I havent been around in quite a long time. Got a new job and dont get time to dink around anymore, even after work. Work, go home, sleep, rinse and repeat.

[mastacox]

Your problems have been very persistent, that really blows... I personally think they sounds related to either a bad FTC (possible), a sluggishly adjusting ECU (possible), or a bad oxygen sensor (probably not likely based on symptoms). Your problems of running very lean/rich in boost sound related to a problem with an oxygen sensor calibrator, are you using the circuitry built-in to the FTC1-E? If so, we need to get you off it asap.

You may be interested in the work I've done on my oxygen sensor system; specifically I've completely removed the stock O2 sensor and FTC's O2 sensor calibrator from the loop. My engine runs completely off a simulated narrowband O2 signal from my LC-1, and utilizes a pressure switch to richen the mixture in boost. It's an imperfect solution and has it's quirks- but it's a hell of a lot better than the O2 sensor mgmt of the FTC1-E. My mileage has taken a dive (I'm at about 15mpg now, from 17-19) but my mid-throttle power is night and day better, and I don't have to worry about what will happen with the FTC if I go into boost.

http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=8547.0
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/mastacox/Pressure%20Switched%20Fuel/IMG_8409.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/mastacox/Pressure%20Switched%20Fuel/IMG_8441.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/mastacox/Pressure%20Switched%20Fuel/IMG_8443.jpg

[Stevo3]

What the hell is that box on the passenger floor board???

I dont know if you remember Blink or not, but hes the one that has been helping me out. I have lost touch with him for a few months now, going to see if he can still get the piggy back computer that he is running. He said it was extremly simple to use compared to the FTC-E. It may be a pretty penny, but if it works better than the ftc Ill gladly spend the extra dough. Theres only 2 things that I will ever order from URD no, thats the fuel pumps and the quick connect wiring harness. I dont mean to bash them but its been a pita ever since day one of installing the ftc.

[mastacox]

What the hell is that box on the passenger floor board???


It's my own custom oxygen sensor "calibrator," which causes the AFR to go to about 12:1 when I'm in boost (but still in closed loop). Read the thread about it for a better understanding of how it works: http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=8547.0



I dont know if you remember Blink or not, but hes the one that has been helping me out. I have lost touch with him for a few months now, going to see if he can still get the piggy back computer that he is running. He said it was extremly simple to use compared to the FTC-E. It may be a pretty penny, but if it works better than the ftc Ill gladly spend the extra dough. Theres only 2 things that I will ever order from URD no, thats the fuel pumps and the quick connect wiring harness. I dont mean to bash them but its been a pita ever since day one of installing the ftc.


Are you using the oxygen sensor calibrator circuit in the FTC1-E? If so, I'm willing to bet that's linked to the majority of your issues, and you can copy my solution to fix it (as long as you're using an Innovate Motorsports LC-1 for AFR). Alternatively URD sells a box to do about the same thing, but I personally think it's overpriced.

Overall, I generally agree that the FTC1-E is a huge flop, and even the standard FTC1 is not all that great compared to say an SMT-7. Still, the advantage of the FTC1 is it has an application specific installation and tuning manual, and lots of people can share their experiences with it. Mine has worked fine once I circumvented the oxygen sensor calibration circuitry, although I am jealous of the easy tuning an SMT-6 or SMT-7 provides.

[Stevo3]

This is the kit I bought.

http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.php?cPath=79_80&products_id=1230100017

And for the ARF reader I have... They dont sell it anymore at URD so anyways...

Its an Innovative LM-1 unit.

[mastacox]

This is the kit I bought.

http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.php?cPath=79_80&products_id=1230100017


Yup, that's the exact same kit I have. It was the only option before their 7th injector kit came out.

Because your 4Runner is a '96, you also have the FTC1-E like I do. This FTC has a built-in oxygen sensor signal conditioner which will clamp the oxygen sensor signal after a specific MAP reading (I think it's the "overpressure" setting in your tuning software, Gadget's u-tune guide says to set it at 4 psi). This circuitry is the bane of anyone's existence that has tried to use it. Once you pass the pressure setpoint, it freaks the stock ECU out and will basically cause your injectors to dump as much fuel as possible, giving AFR's in the 9:1 range. I had these symptoms, Mark had these symptoms, anyone that used an ESC1 had these symptoms, etc.

The first step in getting your 4Runner running right will be to disconnect the wires that go to the oxygen sensor. You're basically better off running with the oxygen sensor wire in stock form, at least until you get a setup that actually works (see below). When you installed the FTC (do you still have the install instructions?) you cut a white wire in your harness and wired it into your FTC1-E; this is the oxygen sensor wire, and it needs to be put back together (at least for the short-term).



And for the ARF reader I have... They dont sell it anymore at URD so anyways...

Its an Innovative LM-1 unit.


The LM-1 (recently replaced by the LM-2 (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm2.php)) is the handheld version of what I have, the LC-1 (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php)/XD-16 (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/xd16.php) combo. Because you don't have an LC-1 in a permanently installed AFR system (and I'm guessing you'd rather not buy one if not needed) your best bet for an oxygen sensor clamp is URD's O2 Sensor Calibrator ($265). (http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.php?cPath=66_72&products_id=1260518747) This box will basically make it so your engine runs at 12:1 AFR in boost which still in closed-loop operation.

My solution was a bit different, but achieves basically the same thing (in fact, it&#39;s actually more robust than the URD application becasue the engine retains closed-loop operation at any AFR). I have an Innovate! LC-1, which means I have two programmable analog voltage outputs that can be used to simulate an oxygen sensor&#39;s signal. So by using a pressure switch and the two analog outputs, I can make the engine <think> it&#39;s running at 14.7:1 when in fact it&#39;s at 12:1, or 10:1, or whatever I program the LC-1 to output. This little setup has completely removed the stock oxygen sensor from the system (it&#39;s not very accurate anyway) so my engine actually runs from a simulated signal from my wideband AFR sensor controller now.

Either way you decide to go, one thing is for certain- we need to get your oxygen sensor disconnected from your FTC1-E ASAP.

[Stevo3]

Well, I have made up my mind. The FTC is going to get yanked out this weekend. I got ahold of Doug and we are going to use his MAP ECU2 on my truck to see if that works out. If it doesnt then Ill only be out 150$ on the plug and play wire harness. If it does work, then I will be purchasing that unit. I will post more as soon as we try it out.

[mastacox]

I would recommend bypassing the oxygen sensor calibration circuit before pulling the entire FTC. You can set the pressure setting to something pretty high like 15psi and see if anything changes. All of your symptoms are very similar to the ones other people have had from the ESC1 circuitry, and I'll bet bypassing it will help you a lot.

[Stevo3]

If I do that, wouldnt it prety much defeat the purpose of having a piggy back in there? Other than to control the timing.

[mastacox]

If I do that, wouldnt it prety much defeat the purpose of having a piggy back in there? Other than to control the timing.


You'll still have control of open loop, and reducing fuel trims somewhat. The issue of closed-loop tuning is present no matter which piggy back you use, and you will have to get some sort of oxygen sensor calibration circuit in order to get full control. You will have this problem with the MAP ECU2.

The advantage is if this at least somewhat fixes your problems in boost, you can keep the FTC and just replace the built-in oxygen sensor circuitry (which doesn't work) with something that does like the URD unit or my home brew solution. If it doesn't fix your problems (after an ECU reset of course) you just replace the FTC anyway because it's probably bad.

[Stevo3]

Well, I think I have spent more than enough time messing with urd's crapbox ftc. Point frankly I'm tired of dealing with it. The software is also buggy and its pretty sad that you have to pull over and wait 10min to upload or download a tune. Im starting to believe now that the ftc is bad. Last time I went into the tune, there were some boxs that were blank. both for timing and fuel. Im going to run just the injectors and fuel pump until I get the harness in to test out the Map ECU-2. Just wont be getting on it at all.

[mastacox]

Yeah I feel you there. If I had some money burning a hole in my pocket I would go SMT-6 or SMT-7... but I'm running well enough where I just can't justify $600 for a new FTC. I would LOVE to have the closed-loop wideband tuning of the SMT-7 though... :D

I'm curious to see if the MAP-ECU2's oxygen sensor calibration circuit works, let us know!

[Stevo3]

Roger that, and wish me luck, I know Im going to need it with how much luck Iver had with this kit already :)

[Stevo3]

Soooooo. I know its been a long long long time. But due to being extremely slow at work I was unable to purchase the map ecu2. Was forced to put the split second timer in. I have also lost contact with blink. So I have no one to help me tune and play around with what I do have.

One day I will get the MAP-ECU2, one day.

If anyone has tried out this unit please let me know how it works for you.

[Stevo3]

Ohh also not sure if I mentioned this in another post or not. But, come to find out (long time ago and fixed) was my Knock Sensor wires were broken from the heat. Causing the ECU to go into retard mode. As of right now, my truck is just running. not in any danger zones anymore.

The only bad is I get heavy ping between 5-0 vacuum. Played around with the timing map with no luck.