Got new brakes- Powerslot rotors w/ Hawk LTS pads

[mastacox]

:wrenchin:

I'll be putting them on this afternoon! The company also sent me a set of Hawk HPS pads, but they're the wrong part number for my 4Runner so I can't use them.

http://pictures.strikeforceniner.com/wp-content/gallery/photobucket-pictures/ef02f5f6.JPG
http://pictures.strikeforceniner.com/wp-content/gallery/photobucket-pictures/49e119f3.JPG

[YotaFun]

I have the same rotors, but got some ceramic pads from local parts store.
I have been happy, you'll like them

[mastacox]

A few pictures from the job. Pretty easy compared to some of the stuff I've had to do on this thing in the past :wrenchin:

Powerslot part numbers for anyone that cares.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/mastacox/Mobile%20Uploads/e2681de7.jpg

New vs old
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/mastacox/Mobile%20Uploads/b3f2b9a1.jpg

My old rotors weren't all that worn down, but the pads definitely were.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/mastacox/Mobile%20Uploads/4810d57e.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/mastacox/Mobile%20Uploads/0d073142.jpg

Bling.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/mastacox/Mobile%20Uploads/3855006b.jpg

For seating the pads/rotors I followed the Stop Tech breakin. Suffice to say, my braking is much improved now.




Breaking in rotors and pads is critical to the optimum performance of your new brakes. When breaking in new parts, you are not only heat cycling the pads, but depositing a layer of pad material onto the rotor face as well. If not broken in properly, an uneven layer of pad material will be deposited onto the rotor causing vibration.

Virtually every instance of a “warped rotor" is attributed to uneven pad deposition.

Typically, a heavy braking street driver will experience approximately 1 to 1.1G’s of deceleration. At this rate, ABS will be activated on such equipped vehicles. A moderate braking effort is needed to properly break in rotors and pads. A stopping force of approximately 70-80%, just short of ABS intervention or lock-up is a general estimate of pedal effort you are trying to achieve.

Note: Plated lated rotors must be driven with gentle braking until CAD plating is worn off rotor faces BEFORE starting the break-in procedure. Do not use brakes aggressively until plating is worn off, typically several miles of driving.

FAILURE TO READ, UNDERSTAND AND AND FOLLOW THESE PROCEDURES WILL CAUSE PERMANANT DAMAGE TO YOUR BRAKE ROTORS AND KEEP THE SYSTEM FROM WORKING AT IT’S FULL CAPACITY.

Rotor and Pad Break-in (continued)

After completeing installation, make a series of 10 stops from 60 to 5-10 miles per hour. At the end of each stop, immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop. Run all stops in one cycle. During the 60 to 5-10 MPH series of stops, the exact speed is not critical. Accelerate to appoximately 60 and begin the braking cycle. As you approach 5-10 MPH, it is not necessary to watch the speedometer, keep your eyes on the road and approximate your speed at the end of each cycle. After the final stop of each cycle, drive as much as possible without using the brakes to cool off the system. Ideally, the brakes should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature before using again.

DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP, AS YOU WILL IMPRINT PAD MATERIAL ONTO THE ROTOR, CAUSING A VIBRATION.

There are several indicators to look for while breaking in the system:

On the 8th ot 9th stop, there should be a distinct smell from the brakes. Smoke may be evident after several stops as well. Also on the 8th or 9th stop, some friction materials will experience “green fade”. This is a slight fading of the brakes. The fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have cooled.

After the break-in cycle is finished, there will be a blue tint color on the rotor with a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint indicates the rotor has reached the proper break in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face.

If racing or higher performance pads are being used, add four stops from 80 to 5-10mph and if a full race pad, four stops from 100 to 5-10 miles per hour.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes will still not be operating at their best capacity capacity. A second or third bed-in cycle is typically necessary before the brakes really start to “come in”. A “cycle” is a series of stops with a cool down in between each cycle.

StopTech does not endorse speeding on public roads. If going above the legal speed limit, do so in a safe area, away from traffic at your own risk.

[Crinale]

your old rotors look brand new compared to mine :spit:

[YotaFun]

Brian, do you have the tundra upgrade?

[mastacox]

Brian, do you have the tundra upgrade?


No, couldn't afford it this time around. I do have the larger 16" wheel brake package though.

[mastacox]

The rotors after breakin:
http://pictures.strikeforceniner.com/wp-content/gallery/photobucket-pictures/c1ae94b0.JPG

[Good Times]

nice!!

[corax]

looks like a good break-in . . . always wanna shoot for the shiny dull gray color on the rotors, a mirror/chrome finish means you don't drive hard enough to use the brakes the way they're meant to be

[Okie81]

Looks good, new rotors are sexy. I followed the same ShopTech procedure so hopefully mine look like that too.

[Erich_870]

Sort of off topic, but not completely.

How do you tell if shaking in the steering wheel and the vehicle while braking is warped rotors or bad front wheel bearings?

My front rotors and pads are only 2 years old.

Erich

[MTL_4runner]

Sort of off topic, but not completely.

How do you tell if shaking in the steering wheel and the vehicle while braking is warped rotors or bad front wheel bearings?

My front rotors and pads are only 2 years old.

Erich


Shaking in the steering wheel can be a few things:

Brake rotors
Wheel Bearing
Tire Balance
Tie Rods
Steering Rack


To test if it is the rotors causing your steering wheel shake, you should feel the pedal vibrate considerably when breaking. If not, start looking at other items on the list. Wheel bearing is also easy to test by jacking each side up and moving the tire by hand in the X-Y plane.

[Erich_870]

Shaking in the steering wheel can be a few things:

Brake rotors
Wheel Bearing
Tire Balance
Tie Rods
Steering Rack


To test if it is the rotors causing your steering wheel shake, you should feel the pedal vibrate considerably when breaking. If not, start looking at other items on the list. Wheel bearing is also easy to test by jacking each side up and moving the tire by hand in the X-Y plane.


I do have noticeable pedal vibration during braking. I was thinking that I haven't checked the condition of my rear brakes since I bought it and the fronts might be over compensating for them, causing premature rotor warping.

I may jack up the front and give the tires a hand test just to see. We have really nice weather up here right now, so I may as well do it.

Erich

[MTL_4runner]

I do have noticeable pedal vibration during braking. I was thinking that I haven't checked the condition of my rear brakes since I bought it and the fronts might be over compensating for them, causing premature rotor warping.

I may jack up the front and give the tires a hand test just to see. We have really nice weather up here right now, so I may as well do it.

Erich



You are exactly right not to neglect the rears because they can warp prematurely from rear drums/shoes which are worn or misadjusted. My suggestion would be to do them all at once if you find the rears are also in poor shape. I even had a set of the Tundra rotors warp due to rear drums which were going south. Did them all at once and all is back to new. This was after I had put in a new steering rack so I knew that was not the issue.

[CJM]

To test wheel bearings and tierods/ball joints:

Wheel bearings: grab tire from the sides of it, IE facing tire grab shoulder width apart and shake back and forth. Any play you need to have the wheel bearings checked.

Tierods/ball joints:

Grab tire the opposite way, IE top to bottom and shake. Watch for movement, sometiems you can watch the ball joints movie. Another method is jack up the truck enough to fit a large prybar under the tire and push up on it to check for play.

[04 Rocko Taco]

I am curious how these are wearing for you, and are you still impressed with the powerslot rotors and the hawk pads over stock?

[mastacox]

I like them a lot, they are much better than my old brakes, but the old brakes were pretty glazed over. I don't think they're a LOT better than stock, but I don't have a lot to compare them to; if you want a large braking increase I would go for the Tundra upgrade.

[04 Rocko Taco]

I, like you, don't have the extra dough for the Tundra upgrade. I am doing okay in the brake dept, but I would like to get a little more braking if I can for some less dough than the Tundra upgrade.

[L33T35T Tacoma]

Where did you do the break in? If I tried anything like that around here I'd go to jail! LOL

[MTL_4runner]

Tierods/ball joints:

Grab tire the opposite way, IE top to bottom and shake. Watch for movement, sometiems you can watch the ball joints movie. Another method is jack up the truck enough to fit a large prybar under the tire and push up on it to check for play.





It's also easy to mistake play in the steering rack for an inner tie rod propblem.
If you see movement at what looks like the inner tie rod, cut open the boot to get a clear view.