Questions about suspension and handling [Archive]

4x4mike

07-21-2010, 09:09 AM

I've been experiencing less than par handing with my 4Runner and wanted to get some insight on the matter. The roads here in CA are a bit rough and are full of patches. On an average drive, driving the speed limit, I feel as if I have to work hard to keep it going straight and it's not that smooth. Having said that I'm an certain my steering components are fine and tight.

I have '99 coils front and rear with some air bags in the rear. I'm running Revo 2's at street pressure and they have about 60% tread.

An example of sub par feel is driving in a parking lot with speed bumps. With say 5 psi in the bags (that's about what I need to level out the suspension) the rear feels very soft. When the rear goes over the bump (at a safe respectable parking lot speed) I feel 2 stages of upward travel, the coil (soft) and then the air bag (a little stiffer). Add some speed on the highway driving over road patches and I feel the same feel if not a little clunking. Slow speed driving onto my flat drive way, with a slight curb, I feel the same slight clunking feel. The clunking doesn't bother me as much as the slight disconnected feel. The only thing I can relate it to is a full suspension mountain bike with loose pivots. I've checked all the bushings and bolts holding my rear axle in several times since my axle swap and everything is as it should be. Ken mentioned the panhard bar so I'll check that out and make sure my axle is hanging below the frame centered.

This past weekend was spent camping and the 4Runner was fully loaded. On the highway it felt ok but not right over bumps. Offroad on fire roads the suspension was quiet, no clunking, but was very bouncy. It could be because I was at street pressure and again loaded.

It all boils down to what I should do. The vehicle works fine but just doesn't ride to my liking. I'm wondering if I need new shocks. The front is stiff. The rear with 5 psi in the bags the bumper travel is a little squishy. Kind of like an old beater car or waterbed feel. I've never had a vehicle that had worn out shocks let alone a 4runner that needed shocks. Several different dealers want about $525 for stock shocks. TRD4u wants $330. Sonoran Steel wants $590 for the system 3 which would replace my '99 coils and shocks. I liked the road feel and handling when I got the vehicle and want it back like it used to be. For the most part, other than driving, I haven't done anything to the suspension except put about 33,000 miles on it in the past 2.5 years. WWYD

fenrisx

07-21-2010, 10:37 AM

4x4mike

07-21-2010, 11:07 AM

I can't give you any insight as to what the problem may be, but I wanted to point you towards a good deal on Tokico TrekMasters. I got mine for $235 shipped off of eBay, item #310235165150. These are the same ones that Sonoran Steel uses in their 3.0 setup, and are supposed to be a better shock than the stock Tokico.

Did you have to replace your shocks because they were worn? If so did you experience any of the handing characterists that I did? You've got a '99 correct?

I'll look into the bay. I wonder if there are any Mormans selling some shocks.

troyboy162

07-21-2010, 01:54 PM

how many miles on your stock shocks?

MTL_4runner

07-21-2010, 02:38 PM

I gotta say that sounds like rear shocks too.
Either Tokicos or OME's would be a good replacement.

4x4mike

07-21-2010, 02:50 PM

how many miles on your stock shocks?

I have all reason to believe they are stock. I have 117K on the clock.
I've owned other vehicles that I have beaten on more and with more miles and have never had the shocks go out so this is still new for me.

I plan to replace with stock.

Robinhood4x4

07-21-2010, 06:44 PM

Before I even finished your first post I thought shocks. Check to see if they're leaking but even if they're not I would still replace them.

4x4mike

07-21-2010, 09:46 PM

They're not leaking and are as clean as the day I got the vehicle. I'm price shopping right now.

Thanks for the help and confirmation.

fenrisx

07-21-2010, 10:07 PM

Did you have to replace your shocks because they were worn? If so did you experience any of the handing characterists that I did? You've got a '99 correct?

I'll look into the bay. I wonder if there are any Mormans selling some shocks.

I haven't replaced them yet... they're in the basement. Waiting on new springs to go with 'em. I can't say that I've necessarily experienced the symptoms you have, but my front shocks make noises when going over bumpy sections on roads, and in general they feel like they're shot.

Hopefully if you find any Mormons on eBay you won't have to ask 'em any questions about their items!

Okie81

07-22-2010, 12:35 PM

For what it's worth Mike, I had most of the symptoms you described and they all went away with a new lift (shocks & springs). What was the culprit? I don't know...

Oh, and ironically I had 110k on my clock when I replaced everything

4x4mike

07-22-2010, 01:55 PM

Interesting. Good to hear it's not just me turning into a crappy driver. I hope to get some shocks here soon.

mastacox

07-22-2010, 02:02 PM

I had a similarly soft rear end and got new shocks after one of my rear ones exploded. I went with Rancho 9000 XL's and have been very happy with them, especially the adjustable damping.

Crinale

07-23-2010, 02:00 AM

methinks my next pair of rear shocks is gonna be a set of rancho 9000's... they are very nice

4x4mike

08-05-2010, 09:35 PM

I finally got my shocks in the mail and am having a hell of a time getting the old ones out. I'm starting on the rear so I guess I need help with those. I can get a socket, with a wobble attachment, on the top nut but the upper shock body just turns. I've tried holding it with a strap wrench and pipe wrench but can't get it. I soaked everything in pb blaster tonight so I can have another go at it tomorrow after work but was wondering if I'm missing anything.

Thanks

troyboy162

08-05-2010, 09:48 PM

the top of the shock shaft is made for a 10 or 8 mm open end wrench. so magically you know have to fit two wrenches in there and work it. i think i remeber a locking nut on my stock ones too.
this is the one time where a body lift is priceless

mastacox

08-05-2010, 11:21 PM

The top nuts on my old shocks were rusted something bad. I ended up cranking them back and forth until the top stud snapped, which worked nicely:

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/mastacox/SHock%20Exploded/IMG_7748.jpg

I have a 1" body lift and even with that I need to do a little custom clearancing to fit my hand in there and tighten the new shocks down. It worked, but it wasn't pretty.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/mastacox/SHock%20Exploded/IMG_7760.jpg

Crinale

08-06-2010, 12:21 AM

when i ripped out the stock rear shocks on my 2nd gen i strapped a oil filter chain wrench to the shock body and mangled the crap out of it twisting the shock til the bolt twisted free... it also wasnt pretty, but its doable..

Robinhood4x4

08-06-2010, 06:16 AM

No not missing anything. The pipe wrench will work, but you'll have to crush the shock body to get a good purchase on it.

4x4mike

08-06-2010, 08:17 AM

Ok, thanks. Hopefully me srpaying everything down will help. The new shocks have 2 nuts for the top so I'm assuming the stock ones have that as well, I'll confirm with my inspection mirror now that I know to look. If it does have 2 and I can't get in there I think I'm going to try to break the top of the shock off. If it looks doable I might wedge the air hammer with a chisel up in the top area. Suprisingly the old shocks have quite a bit of resistance left in them, I don't remember this when I unbolted the bottoms during the axle swap. I just hope the new ones solve my crappy ride.

4x4mike

08-07-2010, 09:41 PM

Well I finally have new shocks on the 4Runner. It took me all day with the rear shocks taking most of the time. I thought it was going to be cake but I was wrong. I have a garage full of tools and I used all the big loud ones today. Without the tools there would have been no way to complete the job.

I got the shocks from the eBay store listed above and they arrived fast and we just the ticket. The rear passenger side shock had a lot of rust on the nut holding it on. The pocket that the top nut lives in was full of sand and dirt that I'm sure got wet quite often and just sat. I ended up using an air body saw and air hammer to break that shock out. The rear driver side shock was about the same but with less rust. Because it lives above the gas tank I didn't want to use anything that made sparks. The space to remove this shock is less than the other side. I used the air hammer again and went to town for about 20 minutes. I kind of wished it had more rust, BTW I hate rust with a passion, because it would have broken sooner. The new shocks slid right in in about 10 minutes. The fronts were easy. I used my HF compressors and they worked fine. I think people have such bad luck with them because they go crazy with an impact gun. I went only semi crazy with my 3/8 gun to avoid any accidents. I had both fronts in in about 45 minutes, that included painting the frame and what not. I figured why not since I was in there plus I hate rust. I was all done and cleaned up when I realized I forgot a rubber bumper on the fronts. I had to pull everything apart, compress the springs again and install the bumpers. Everything went back perfect and everything was golden.

From what I can tell the truck needed shocks. The ride isn't as smooth but is solid and no more sway. I had to run to the ER because they took my grandma in so I was doing some high speed along with some fast cornering and I was happy with my work and the new shocks.

I hope I don't need new ones for awhile or that I don't have to take these out soon. Grandma is fine but her knee is very swollen and will most likely have to get an MRI done on Monday.

Crinale

08-07-2010, 11:49 PM

glad you got all that figured out :thumbup: and double glad grandma is ok :-D

Bob98SR5

08-08-2010, 09:33 AM

mike,

good to hear you got the shocks off. i recall when I removed mine, it wasnt as hard b/c there was no rust and i was working with someone who had just done it a few weeks before.

best wishes to your grandma. what damage seems minor to younger folks like us is magnified with older folks. but a hug and a kiss for grandma works wonders for healing :)

MTL_4runner

08-09-2010, 01:58 PM

Glad to hear the new shocks worked and grandma is fine!

Anyone doing rusted rear shocks in the future, I found the easiest way was to use a sawzall to cut across the rubber bushing (which effectively cuts the shocks mounting stud). Mine were alot worse than those pics but it only takes about 5 mins per side with a metal blade to get them out.

4x4mike

08-09-2010, 02:15 PM

Thanks for the well wishes for the Grandma.

I tried to get my sawzall in there but it wasn't even close to fitting. I knew it would make short work of the job and even thought about removing the back section of my exhaust to make room. That was just the passenger side. The driver side was even more cramped. Maybe it's time for a smaller saw but even then my little air body saw could barely get in there.

frohbego

08-10-2010, 08:53 PM

This past weekend i finally got my 4runner back from the shop and was able to test out the new suspension. Everything works great. but i did notice when on highways if if hit bumps at 60 or 70 mph the truck would shift or jump quite allot to one side.

Is this common?

Crinale

08-10-2010, 09:27 PM

not really.. especially if you still have sway bars connected... if it continues to do so u might want to check the shocks, there is a possibility u got one bad shock. My BMW does this badly, which is how i know she needs new suspension, but shes getting lowered soon so i havent gotten to it yet

Okie81

08-12-2010, 04:53 PM

Seanz0rz

08-13-2010, 08:29 AM

Panhard bar issue?

thats what it sounds like to me, but again, that shouldnt really be normal. id check amd make sure all the bolts are tight. shops are terrible at torquing to the correct spec.

4x4mike

08-13-2010, 10:07 AM

Well then on the subject of panhard bars I had some questions about mine. Does any one know if different length bars were used for different 3rd gen years? Like 96-98, 99 and 00-02? Mine is not adjustable and is the same length as the one that came stock on Paddlenbike's 2000. We measured from the outside of the body at the wheel well in relation to the outside edge of the rear tire and my rear end is not centered. I bet it's close to 1/2" off if not a little more.

Should I try to center it? I know there are drop down brackets and adjustable ones. I was thinking that if I needed an adjustable one I could price out a used stock one, cut it up and weld in some tube adapters.

Robinhood4x4

08-13-2010, 10:58 PM

Oy, panhard angles again. Over the years, I've done the math and physically shown forums that mild lifting (<3in) does not affect side to side shift at all on level ground. It's like 0.05" or something. In short, it's like that from the factory.

I've proven it with my stock 4th gen. The axle is 1/2" shifted to the right, right now.

The only time you need to do something about the panhard is if the driveshaft is rubbing on something at full articulation.

Back to Frogbego's question, I very much doubt it's the panhard. Check for cracked bushings and loose jesus bolts, but 99% of the time it's the shocks.

4x4mike

09-03-2013, 08:16 PM

So one of my Tokico Trekmaster front shocks has locked up on me. The ride recently has been really stiff and was starting to bug me. If I had to think back when it started it was late spring or early summer. Since that time I've been on several wheeling trips, thousands of miles and had no other aliments.

Today while I was working on something unrelated I pushed down on the front bumper on the driver side. The bumper went down and the rest of the 4Runner followed. The passenger side was different. With my body weight there was no movement except for the tire bulge getting a little bigger. I lifted the front end with a floor jack, first under the a-arm to try to compress the shock, check for movement and check all the other pieces of suspension. Next I lifted it by the frame and gave everything a once over along with a wiggle and jiggle.

I'd like to get this addressed before I wear out all the joints and bushings on the passenger front. Not to mention Pismo. Any ideas of how to get the shock moving? I don't suspect it's bent as I haven't jumped it or done anything abusive. It also looks in fine condition. It's currently being driven daily so I don't want to pull it apart. I'm afraid with the shock not moving I'd have trouble getting the assembly out, apart or reassembled.

If I need replacements I'm thinking 5100's but need to figure out which ones I need or what parts I need to use them with my OME 881's.

Seanz0rz

09-03-2013, 09:58 PM

That happened to my green trekmaster. Valving inside went poof! I really noticed it braking over rough roads and by abs would kick in.

The shock is dead, you'll have to replace.

4x4mike

09-03-2013, 10:07 PM

Ken's did the same thing. Steve stopped selling the shock with lifts because it pulled the shaft out of the valving sweet spot. It appears it weakens the shock as well.

For some reason I haven't read much about this.

Seanz0rz

09-03-2013, 10:21 PM

I ordered my replacements from Steve. 250 kinda hurt, but they are still doing well like 5 years later.

paddlenbike

09-04-2013, 07:36 AM

I ordered my replacements from Steve. 250 kinda hurt, but they are still doing well like 5 years later.

Sean, did you move to the Bilsteins? When my passenger side tokico locked up, I bought the Bilsteins directly from Steve.

Seanz0rz

09-04-2013, 08:21 AM

Yep, I have the same 5100 you have. Good shocks especially with the Tundra Coils. I'm not sure what Mike is running up front.

paddlenbike

09-04-2013, 08:42 AM

Mike has an OME 881 and I think a toytec 3/4" spacer. He might be able to run the Tundra Bilstein on the 4th perch with the OME coil and ditch the spacer all together, but that is the question at hand.

4x4mike

09-04-2013, 08:43 AM

Now that I'm reading all of this I remember that Sean has/had the kit Ken had or they were from the same era (Trekmaster). Sean's went south and got the 5100's and Ken soon followed.

The Trekmaster's were a good deal and had been working really well but it seems like the extra extension is too much for them.

For future reference the shocks say BE5-6929 on the body and these are the ones you want to get if you have a 4Runner. The part number for these shocks is 24-188265 and is the one you'll need when searching to purchase.

I ordered some up this morning for $220 delivered and they should be here tomorrow.

So long from Trekmasters, we had a good run.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B-i8FDHMsCE/SSI3RB4oAhI/AAAAAAAAh-g/sMLzXIPgaUQ/s800/DSC_0520.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jtXDCKTiBbo/SSI3RqbMWHI/AAAAAAAAh-g/1S3ZHMCO7MI/s800/DSC_0522.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p1tCfrylQQI/SSI3MZQMaGI/AAAAAAAAh-g/gOaaM6WP7wk/s800/DSC_0509.JPG

paddlenbike

09-04-2013, 08:56 AM

Nice, you will like them Mike.

For future reference (since I still need to order the Bilstein rear shocks):
rear- BE5-A014-H5 (need to press shock eye bushing out and press in Daystar p# KU08007)
measure 22.4" ext. and 13.82" compressed. good up to 2" of lift.

stock fj80 rear tokico shocks
23.5" ext. and 14.5" compressed
Ome n86 hd prado.
21.2" ext. and 12.95" compressed

**STOCK 4runner tokico shocks are
19.75 ext and 11.75 compressed

Seanz0rz

09-04-2013, 12:41 PM

Mike, you will need to ditch the trim packer with those Bilstein shocks. I am curious how those work with the OME springs. I am very happy with my Tundras, but only after getting a heavy front bumper. Otherwise, they were pretty stiff.

Oh, and HOW did I blow my Trekmaster? By jumping it at Pismo!

4x4mike

09-04-2013, 01:53 PM

I'll ditch the spacer. It's a small one, 3/8" I think but it seems unnecessary now.

Apparently the Tundra 5100's will work fine with stock '99, OME and Toytec springs. To fit in a 4Runner application adapter isolators would be needed for actual Tundra springs or say OME Tundra application springs, neither of which I have.

I've got the TJM bumper, lights, skid plates and Cadillac horns hanging off the front so that is some added weight that will hopefully help in the ride. If not maybe some Pismo jumping will be in order.

paddlenbike

09-04-2013, 03:08 PM

It seems funny to include the weight of the cadillac horns, but they really are THAT heavy!

I had to use the horn on the rental car the other day and my god I missed my Caddys!

4x4mike

09-05-2013, 04:15 PM

Well my Tundra 5100s came this morning and I was able to replace the locked out side. Removal of the old assembly was cake, as was removing the coil. Since I was ditching the spacer I decided to put the retainer on the middle groove. The paperwork that came with the shock states this will result in a 1.3" average lift. Since the coils were longer than stock and I'd be loosing the 3/4 spacer I thought it would be right. I forgot to measure the compressed coil or seat to top height before removing the spring so I thought I'd wing it.

Well, not so much. It wouldn't fit, like it was too long. I wrestled with the thing for about an hour. Jacking up this, pushing on this, removing this, smacking this. I rotated the spring as well thinking it was not in the correct orientation. The bottom mounting hole was about 2" off and for the life of me I couldn't compress the coil or shock.

This got me thinking. Is this shock locked up too? I took the other 5100 out of the box and it compressed really easily. Then I tried the old Tokico and it compressed as well. Shitcakes. All the while something was going down at one of the kids daycares resulting in 10 text and calls from the wife. Was the locking out from a ball joint or steering, etc? The old shock was buttery smooth.

I lowered the retainer to the second to the bottom, should result in a 0.65" average lift and tried again. Same thing although now the bottom hole was just an inch off. Problem was I still couldn't budge it. After a bottle jack landed on my head and neck twice, it was up in the wheel well pushing on the a-arm, I started getting pissed. I pushed, wedged, ratchet strapped and sweat over everything and finally got the bolt in.

All the while I realized I didn't really take any beginning measurements and I was only going to do this side as we leave town for 4 days tonight (taking the wife's car). Oh well. I'm sure ground to the bottom of my fender was 36" (driver side-old side is currently 35.75"), that number just sticks out and it's ball park. The new shock side is about 36.75" right now but only one side is done and I haven't driven it yet.

Come Monday I'll hopefully have more patience and time and come back with a smoother install story. Until then I'm picking the kids up from daycare with a slight gangster lean.

paddlenbike

09-05-2013, 04:26 PM

I'm pretty sure these Bilsteins are quite a bit longer than the Trekmasters. I had to put the bottle jack in the wheel well, pointing down and pushing on the upper A-arm to come even close to getting the bottom shock eye to align. I had to crank the bottle jack a LONG ways, like far enough that I was a little concerned about the ball joints and tie rod ends. In the end, it's all still working just fine.

Seanz0rz

09-05-2013, 05:06 PM

When my green trekmaster went, it was nearly impossible to move it. When I removed it, I put the stud down and put all my weight on the shock body, it would barely move, and took a day to push back out.

The position of the lower spring retainer only determines the pre-load on the spring. No matter where you put that retainer, the strut will always be the same length.

I have to use the stock jack to push down on the upper BJ to get the bottom bolt in on the shock. You really should loosen the bolts for the upper and lower control arms and retighten at the new ride height.

4x4mike

09-05-2013, 05:31 PM

I had a bottle jack in the wheel well. It was maxed out, as in the upper ball joint was limiting any more downward movement. Not to mention the back side of the joint housing was pressing into the side of the coil.

Sean, what do you mean by the upper and lower control arms? Do you mean the a-arms? I thought the bolts just rides in the bushings and kind of self aligns.

The old Trekmaster compresses easy, kind of like it did when it was new. It's definitely shorter than the 5100 but I don't know what it's problem was. I'll take a few pictures here tonight.

Seanz0rz

09-05-2013, 05:43 PM

Yes, the A arms. The bolt actually pinches the inner sleeve of the bushing. Poly bushings use this sleeve (or the outer sleeve, can't remember) as a sort of bearing, allowing the sleeve and bushing to turn. Rubber bushings are fixed between the inner and outer sleeves. Since the outer sleeve is pressed into the arm, any rotational movement must be done at the inner sleeve. When the bolt is tightened, it pinches the sleeve, and any movement is just transferred through the rubber, and the inner sleeve should not spin.

Steve's instructions (and others as well) instruct you to loosen the arms to allow the bushings to be neutral at ride height. This also keeps the wear on the bushings to a minimum.

That was kind of wordy, but hopefully that explains it.

paddlenbike

09-05-2013, 06:41 PM

Hmm...I did none of that with that A-arm bolt. Should I, or is it about seven years too late?

Seanz0rz

09-05-2013, 06:51 PM

Probably too late, but it wouldn't hurt. Basically it will give you better down travel and resist up travel better.

YotaFun

09-05-2013, 07:23 PM

FYI the Torque spec of the upper a arm bolt is 87 ft lbs as per FSM.
Finally got my all-pros back in and had to pull out the big paper edition to figure it out lol!!!
Loosening it as States helps immensely.

Also, I don't think I saw this mentioned, Disconnect the sway bar and get the link out of the way!
I have found that this gives at least an 1" to your advantage.

With the combination of the two you should be good to go or at least make it a bit easier.

I am kind of glad I have adjustable coil-overs.
Even with the pre-load set, the shock height seems to stay the same, because mine slipped in like they were stock struts!

Hope the loosening of the upper arms and the sway bar endlink help!

Seanz0rz

09-05-2013, 07:35 PM

In sort of related news, a week ago I got an alignment, lasted less than a day. They didn't tighten the forward adjusting cams. Story of my life.

4x4mike

09-05-2013, 07:48 PM

I'll adjust the a-arms and tighten them down, thanks for the heads up.

Avy, I removed the sway bar on the side I was working on. At one point I thought it was still in the way so I went so far as to remove the bolts on the other side of the vehicle.

I've had the Trekmasters out a couple times and before that I had the stock height and valved Tokicos. Both could be installed without the bottle jack in the wheel well. Instead I would put a pry bar under the bottom of the shock, compress it a bit and guide it into place and push in the bolt. There was none of that with these 5100s and 881's. I even tried both floor jacks and a bottle jack to push on the bottom of the shock body. When that didn't work I tried a ratchet strap to pull up on it and another to pull it into the cradle on the lower a-arm.

It was a pain.

4x4mike

09-05-2013, 08:29 PM

Okay, some pictures from today. The Trekmasters were installed August 2010, three years ago.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pxBFyOfJiP4/TFuNo1N3oWI/AAAAAAAA_ZM/L3_lIn3_NPo/s800-Ic42/DSC08111.JPG

This picture was taken July, 2012 when I put the OME coils on. I don't have new pictures of the bottom near the bottom mount but the bottom of the shock body seemed bulged.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-arBGa7GDK9o/UAzJzDQIpKI/AAAAAAAA_ZM/Vpf3MhHxwkU/s800-Ic42/IMAG1666.jpg

Here is today. The Trekmaster is bulged on the bottom inch or so. I'm not sure if it was always like this. If it wasn't I might know what caused it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tMhOaXAOUlk/UilCNYJejrI/AAAAAAAA_ZM/DaQbpCaWGV0/s800-Ic42/20130905_170834.jpg

Pretty snazzy looking.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2geqnhufKD4/UilCGewQ50I/AAAAAAAA_ZM/G_hZrc4WFFk/s800-Ic42/20130905_131145.jpg

Round one.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BhxWapEuzQw/UilCHuRcdqI/AAAAAAAA_ZM/l6Q0aF8ucb0/s800-Ic42/20130905_134559.jpg

The image has curvature from the cell phone lens but you can tell the 5100's are longer. Part of my problem.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-44F6ypLZ6-Y/UilCLyy5ugI/AAAAAAAA_ZM/YMUU8ZgXQ2c/s800-Ic42/20130905_170824.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XkfRlQdAdQo/UilCP1abTlI/AAAAAAAA_ZM/7hLtt1fMrn8/s800-Ic42/20130905_170841.jpg

4x4mike

09-09-2013, 01:55 PM

I got the driver side shock in this morning without a hitch. All in all it took less than an hour and that included pulling out and putting away tools. It was still a long shock to get in there but it went pretty smooth. I planned on removing the sway bar end link as I did on the other side but this time it was already done for me.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-M9q6Y3hHrBU/Ui4oTDDlObI/AAAAAAAA_ZM/du-CRTPhjgA/s800-Ic42/20130909_085707.jpg

What the heck?! Just a few days prior I had removed the top bolt to the link for the passenger side shock install. It was all in one piece, not rusted and test drove fine. I was out of town for 3 days so the 4Runner just sat and now this. I guess it's just like when you were a kid and something ended up broken and you were asked what happened. "I guess it just broke by itself." Yeah right but I have no better answer.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SbaznbQvw-k/Ui4oXrHVp-I/AAAAAAAA_ZM/79mY_1NGVJA/s800-Ic42/20130909_121801.jpg

So yeah, whatever. I called a couple dealerships and looked online and no one could get me new links (2) in less than 7 days and for less than $200. I did some research and found some I could live with. My local Napa had a set for $77 so I bought them. They are exact copies of the factory and have a lifetime warranty so I'm fine with these over stock.

I have all reason to believe the ones I took off were original with 14 years and 150K+ on them. The joint was smooth and sound but the boots had cracks in them and the bushings started to want to fall apart once I had them removed. The bushings looked fine installed and the truck road fine but I think over all these joints were on their way out.

This was hidden behind the bushings. Even though everything looked and road fine trapped moisture was eating away. My new ones got a good coat of grease before installation.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LTg6N7fO8vA/Ui4oZHLfQWI/AAAAAAAA_ZM/9ADYnCBAN3Q/s800-Ic42/20130909_123628.jpg

The broken link came off with no problems. When I learned of the price of a factory new one I considered just buying the one even though the old one was just as worn. As it was, the non broken one did not want to come off. I had plenty of time and tools and had a good go at it. Before I let myself get frustrated I just cut it. Cutting was near a last ditch mostly because it was in a position I'm pretty sure I shouldn't be putting my healing back in plus it had good potential for injury if the grinder wanted to wander (my beautiful face). I realized I'm never going to be a model and forgot about my back for a minute and just sliced it off. Easy peezy.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SEZyOkUzZMo/Ui4oaToXI_I/AAAAAAAA_ZM/CQUbFiy5HUI/s800-Ic42/20130909_123721.jpg

I've only done a short test drive but the new 5100's and new links feel good. Not like super totally great (I guess I thought it would feel like a car, you know with Tundra shocks) but it's a smooth and solid ride.

Seanz0rz

09-09-2013, 02:57 PM

I've broken the driver's side twice, both times just below the lower cushion washer, meaning I lost all the cushions and washers each time.

Rock auto has some in the 20 dollar range. You can also find them from part-out vehicles here and there.

Those look pretty worn out!

4x4mike

09-09-2013, 03:21 PM

Did they break while wheeling? Did it make noise when it broke or was it something you noticed later?

Have you considered or do you have lengthened end links? In my search for links I found guys using longer front and rear end links because of a lift. My geometries look fine and stock length don't pinch or bind.

It looks like a common mod is to use the rear links from a 2nd gen for the front and rear of a lifted 3rd gen as they are 0.5 to 1 inch longer than a stock 3rd gen.

Seanz0rz

09-09-2013, 03:34 PM

No noise when they broke (that I know of). I snapped one up in Oregon/California while trying to not get stuck in the mud. I think it happened when I dropped the left front tire into a huge hole.

Broke the second one doing the Whole 'Bernardino.

They usually only brake when you do something stupid, so I don't worry too much about it. It is really apparent in the handling of my truck when one goes though. As a friend once said, "You have the comedic handling pack".

4x4mike

09-09-2013, 03:49 PM

Yeah, no biggie I guess. They needed replacement and I wanted to make sure I had good stuff in good working order on. What got me is that after the passenger side install where I actually touched the link I drove maybe 10 miles at the most, on the street, before letting it sit all weekend and came back to it broken. If it's not something it's about guaranteed to be something else.

paddlenbike

09-09-2013, 05:12 PM

If it's not something it's about guaranteed to be something else.

I hear you on that. Although every car I have ever owned has started needing suspension work around 130,000 miles. BMW's are renowned for their ride and handling, but their suspension bushings only last 80,000 miles.

When you consider the abuse we put these through...mud, snow, submerging them in river crossings, jumping, articulating the hell out of them, SALINE VALLEY ROAD--suspension and steering-related wear probably shouldn't surprise us. Hell, my 87 and 94 trucks required rebuilding the idler arm every six months of offroading.

So far I haven't touched any steering parts, and, other than the lift, shocks have been the only other chassis part I have replaced. But I know those things are to come if I keep using it like it's supposed to be used.

Seanz0rz

03-22-2014, 04:59 PM

Mike, Ken, I have a question for you.

What is marked on your shock body? Mine is marked:
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m141/hamiltoncomputers/IMG_2139.jpg (http://s103.photobucket.com/user/hamiltoncomputers/media/IMG_2139.jpg.html)

4x4mike

03-22-2014, 07:36 PM

I think it's in my picture above. There have been several models of the 5100's with different numbers, even for the adjustable ones. I also found each shock has 2 different numbers, one for Bilstein and one for sales.

Seanz0rz

03-22-2014, 08:14 PM

The reason I am asking is I want to match it to exactly what I had. (except for whatever special valving that may or may not be present in there). I don't want one that was designed for a 4runner if I need a Tundra one, etc.

edit:

In this post: http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?9071-Questions-about-suspension-and-handling&p=108495&viewfull=1#post108495

BE5-6929 is what you call out, and what I have. Wondering if the extra lettering means anything particular.

I am trying to chase some down for not too much money. In a few months, it will come to the point where I will have to pull the truck into the garage to do timing belt, some other engine maintenance, some paint and body work, and some front suspension work. I will aim to do it all at once, but would collect parts over the next few months.