View Full Version : Motor is spewing oil out valve cover
96 T100 3.4L.
Was driving to a friends, started hearing a tick like a missfire. Checked it, but couldnt see where it was coming from except that under more load (RPMs up) it sounded like a chattering.
Drove back maybe 2 miles, smoke started to come out. Got back home and my passenger side valve cover is covered in oil and I cant tell where its coming from.
Thoughts? Blown motor, valves let go, threw a rod???
Seanz0rz
07-25-2010, 12:48 PM
only source of oil that high would be the PCV valve i think. maybe the sparkplug holes? but the coil packs are on that side so im not sure.
was it overfilled with oil?
Nah it was fine, wasnt overfilled at all. PVC valve is fine. Oil appears to be coming out of the back of the valve cover in between the cover and the block. It appears to be coming out of one of the bolt holes in the inner side of the valve cover near the fuel rail. I can physically see the oil pumping out of it and the gasses pushing up
Im thinking I blew out the valve cover gasket
corax
07-25-2010, 01:41 PM
see if there's any pressure building up in the crankcase, check/inspect the PCV valve and the fresh air hose if there is (fresh air hose usually connects from a valve cover to the induction tube after the air filter)
Will do soon as it stops raining.
Update:
Im pretty sure the valve cover bolts werent torqued down enough. I never touched them but they were loose. Anyone know the torque spec while Im at it, at least the other side I can tighten back down.
So end result is:
Blew #2 plug on pass side out the head I think or close to it. Coil pack boot disintegrated.. I removed the valve cover and the other plugs, #2 wont come out. Its loose, but I cant seem to turn it or get it out. The shop can play with it when I have some cash.
Aluminum heads right? I think I need to get a time sert now. Anyone got any other bright ideas?
Seanz0rz
07-25-2010, 04:03 PM
pretty common for the valve cover bolts to back them selves out. all of my oil seepage is due to this.
torque spec is 6 NM or 53 in lbf
Thanks Sean, Ill remember that.
Im probably not gonna get this fixed all to soon since I just 94 F250 HD that needs work but should be good after some TLC. At least unlike the T100 it doesnt vibrate going down the road. Shame, I really wanted a tundra but man oh man are they $$$.
Ok was able to get the plug out with some needlenose. I shoulda left the other plugs in and bumped the plug out, but its done.
Threads are MIA, helicoil is pointless-it will fail. So Im gonna time sert it and hope for the best.
Question is, I am measuring the plug and I get M12x1.25 (thread pitch) and about 17.5mm long threads. Just wanted to double check with everyone I measured it right.
Thankfully time sert makes a long hole kit and I can fix this in the end without removing the heads and all. If I pus the piston to close to if not TDC it should alleviate the shavings of metal getting into the cyl I hope. I am not doing a head job, the truck isnt worth it since its going bye bye soon as this is done.
partsman93274
07-30-2010, 06:18 AM
I have used a shop vac and stepped the hose down to a piece of 3/8 brake line using pvc pipe and lots of vinyl electric tape. Then you can bend the tip of the brake line slightly and stick in the spark plug hole to suck out any shavings. I used my brother in laws borescope before and after and was surprised to see it worked. I learned the hard way that a Ford v-10 seems to have spark plugs pop out on their own and take the threads with you so I know your pain. Hope this helps.
Ford 5.4 and V10 aluminum heads have to shallow of threads so I know exactly what you mean. BTDT with my work E250 van.
partsman93274
08-01-2010, 09:01 AM
Lol. Best part is after is blew another plug I put it back in with JB weld and took to the dealer and traded it in.
Yep, damn shame the 5.4L is a bad engine sometimes. Got 3 of them at work, 98 with 300k no issues, 02 w/280k (mine) one sparkplug blew out and we found it was already time serted and fixed it and an 00 w/130k no issues.
Then again buddy of mine had a 05 F250 and the motor at 70k began to knock horribly-no prior issues either. He traded it for a newer F350 with the 5.4L..
Seanz0rz
08-01-2010, 11:37 AM
my father has an 02 f250 with the 6.8L V10. no issues, but original sparkplugs, as far as i know.
when it comes time to replace the plugs, i will take it to the dealer. this way, if it explodes, it should be their fault, and not mine.
Watch it with the dealer sean, sometimes theres those clauses that state its covered but only so much.
Personally the issue is over torquing them. I forgot the spec but if you coat the threads in antisieze and torque them right your good to go.
Im still debating the time sert, Im gonna do it but probably not right away. Need to fix the miss in my F250, replace the waterpump and rad when I get a chance.
Reminds me-radiator barn, good, bad what have ya?
Seanz0rz
08-01-2010, 01:37 PM
ive always heard great things. im planning on buying one there when mine gets to the point it needs to be replaced.
Cool, they are the cheapest in town at about 130 shipped. Even my buddy who deals in rads and heatercores cant touch it.
partsman93274
08-01-2010, 07:28 PM
I bought a 3 row radiator from them for my 66 mustang and never had any issues. Plus the price was better than others.
Ok i finally got going on this and success the inserts in...
BUT
while i was tapping for the insert I unfortunately left a rag on top of the plenum. I cranked the engine over to push the shavings out of the spark plug hole and a rag fell into the exposed gears (had the valve cover off) and got all chewed up. I had to remove the exhaust cam and pick tiny pieces of rag out for an HOUR!!!
But the timing jumped now and after removing idler I cant get the belt on. I need the special service tool.. Does anyone have any idea where to get one for a decent price or could loan me one (ill pay to rent if from ya and shipping both ways and then some!) so I can compress the pulleys/idlers for the belt. its this too: http://www.toy4x4.net/timing_belt/sst_1.jpg
Also of course im reusing the belt-but I didnt mark it! The only marks left are those that say RH and LF cam on the belt. Does it pose a problem if it doesnt go on exactly the way it came off?
Found the tool for 35 bucks if anyone else needs one:
http://www.handsontools.com/Schley-97300-Toyota-Timing-Belt-Tensioner-Compressor_p_6223.html
partsman93274
08-15-2010, 09:12 AM
This is why I love this forum. 98% of the time I have a problem someone here knows how or where to get it fixed.
Well, does anyone know if I put the belt on in a different spot will it matter? The only marks left are those that say RH and LF cam on the belt. Does it pose a problem if it doesnt go on exactly the way it came off?
partsman93274
08-15-2010, 07:16 PM
Unless it has directional arrows I don't see why it would make a difference as long as the cam and crank are lined up. Tends to be the rule with most timing belt driven motors.
i think what i will do is align the arrows where it says RH and LF cam on the belt with the marks on the cams just to be sure if possible. But they were not even close when i took it apart.
DAMN IT!
I get everything patched up and now the valves chatter and I THOUGHT it was burning up oil that had leaked out.
Nope..valve cover appears to be cracked.. ugh..
Anyone got a spare righthand (pass side) valve cover for a 3.4L?
About the only plus is it isnt missing and the plug seems to be holding..but man is it chattering..
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