Driveshaft Lube: (Paging Bob_98SR5*) NGLI 2 or MP vs. Marine?

[Obi..]

*Other members feel free to chime in if desired.

re: http://www.4runners.org/writeups/zerk/index.html

I pretty much run the MP Blue all the time, marine when I am in the winter, never had a problem, until tonight..
:shake:

I just ran out and am going shopping @ Wally-World since I have a gift card form them.

I'm wondering what type you all like since at this point I plan on running Marine Grade again as it lasts longer in the winter with all the rain, dirt, mud, and salted road crap the 4Runner sees.

Any disagreements here, and why if so?
:wrenchin:

[4x4mike]

I run some thick red grease from Napa. It's not marine but even with winter it's not going anywhere. For the most part the driveshaft stays dry unless you dunk it.

[fenrisx]

I'll have to keep an eye on this thread... I bought a grease gun at Home Depot today.. and they only grease they had was a 3pack that had 1x Lucas Red N Tacky, and 1x Maringe, and one other. I figured the Red N Tacky would be what I'd use, but wasn't sure so I didn't buy it! http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=46&catid=14&loc=show&headTitle=%20-%20Red%20'N'%20Tacky%20Grease

[troyboy162]

nothing to add really other then i found mobile 1 grease seperates too much. literaly a puddle of red oil under my grease gun constantly. im running what ever green marine grease vato-zone had the day i finished the mobile 1.

[Bob98SR5]

norcal,

i really dont have a preference, just stuck with synthetics and it did not give me any problems.

bob

[corax]

I've been using Steelco Red Crown 488-1 (http://www.steelcolubricants.com/main_pages/grease_lubricants/red_crown_488/488-Red-Crown.html) for the last five years. I've recommended it to hundreds of dealer techs, but it can be tough to find in some places. I especially used it to cure "driveshaft bump" - come to a quick stop where the rear suspension raises (extending the slip yoke a bit), and when you pull out you'll feel a slight bump in the seat of your pants from the slip yoke binding just before it recompresses.

Good tacky stuff, and a pain to clean off your skin. Smear some between your fingers and you'll see stringy hairs of grease when you pull you fingers apart.

[04 Rocko Taco]

I use whatever Autozone sells in a cheap 3 pack of tubes to fit in my grease gun. Its Moly, I think. But its never given me a problem at all.

[MTL_4runner]

I'd use NLGI #2 LB or GC-LB with Moly for any high pressure / low speed joints (tie rods, ball joints, etc).
I'd use NLGI #2 LB or GC-LB (lithium based, no moly) for high speed joints (double cardan , u-joints, yoke splines, etc)
I only use wheel bearing grease for.....you guessed it......wheel bearings.

The moly is really only needed if you run the bearings dry so just keep up to date with your maintenance. If you grease too much with moly, it can build up in the bearings as the oil/base evaporates and can eventually damage the bearing surfaces (moly is a much harder metal than lithium). So basically if you're not good at doing regular maintenance, then go with a good quality synthetic NGLI #2 Lithium-based Moly fortified grease (like Amsoil, Valvoline, etc) for everything.

[fenrisx]

thanks for the info my northern amigo

[Obi..]

..I especially used it to cure "driveshaft bump" - come to a quick stop where the rear suspension raises (extending the slip yoke a bit), and when you pull out you'll feel a slight bump in the seat of your pants from the slip yoke binding just before it recompresses.

Good tacky stuff, and a pain to clean off your skin. Smear some between your fingers and you'll see stringy hairs of grease when you pull you fingers apart.


Hmmm, who told you that's why I realized I'd forgotten to winterize mine after a hot Summer and Fall? (Like the black pinstriping all over the undercarriage wasn't tell-tale enough?)

FWIW I ended up just grabbing another 3 pack of the mini sized marine grade stuff, NGLI 2, it's that semi clear yellowish stuff like I've used in the past.

:D Took about 10 squirts in the u-joints and over 15 in the rear slip yoke.

[4x4mike]

I was surprised how much grease mine took up. I wanted to purge a lot of the old stuff but hell. After pumping I spent close to 30 minutes cleaning all the old grease off the joints. Even after all of that it was still getting on the exhaust and muffler and stinking up the place. It's all good now but now half my under carriage is waterproofed.

[corax]

The slip yoke only really needs one or two pumps, any more and you just start filling the cavity up. Too much (and when the driveshaft compresses) the grease gets pushed through the vent holes to either get flung onto the undercarriage or fill the main tube of your driveshaft.

The reason why you don't need to fill the cavity is that as the driveshaft spins, the grease evens out and gets "pushed" against the inner diameter of the female slip yoke. With nowhere else to go and centripetal force pushing it to go somewhere, it then gets pressed into the slip yoke splines.

http://www.motorera.com/dictionary/pics/S/slip_yoke.jpg

[4x4mike]

Yeah, I made sure I didn't fill it as I've been down that road before.

[Chaplain]

I use Lucas Oil in my 4Runner and have been very happy with the Red n' Tacky