Bought: 2000 Land Cruiser

[bamachem]

FINALLY... (bought it in June 2006)

After talking to way too many "Independent" car dealers in south florida with unintelligible accents, I finally came across a decent cruiser here in Tennessee. Originally from South FL, it came to TN about 3 years ago. It was traded in on a new Infiniti in Nashville, where I came across it on one of my uncoutable internet searches.

Specs: 2000 Land Cruiser (no locker, but has VSC), Black with Tan Leather, 62k dealer maintained (records provided) miles, yada yada yada...

We wanted a 2001/02, but just can't find any for less than $26k and decent miles anywhere around here and I'm hesitant to go into debt for something that I haven't laid my hands on in person.

It has - or should I say HAD - vinly pinstripes on it up until about an hour ago. I dropped a few bens as down payment and they're peeling the stipes and detailing it for delivery.

It's for the wife, but I'll get to sneak it out of the garage from time to time... :P

It will end up with the bumpers and trim painted Black along w/ some OEM 18" wheels via eBay and some Nitto Terra Grapplers or REVO's along with some matching tint on the front windows and a small subwoofer/amp. I'll probably also loose the flares if the paint isn't messed up underneath them.

pics...

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/pic1.jpg


http://4rnr.net/cruiser/pic2.jpg


http://4rnr.net/cruiser/pic3.jpg


http://4rnr.net/cruiser/pic4.jpg


http://4rnr.net/cruiser/pic5.jpg


:D

a couple teaser pics...

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/p6100276.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/p6100277.jpg


and since, i installed two sets of Polk Audio 6.75" coax speakers for the 4 doors, an Alpine 55Wx4 amp to push them, a JL12W3 (dual 2ohm VC) in a carpeted box, and i already have a 150W Alpine mono amp to push it. at least the cruiser now has some good tunes :D

[calamaridog]

Andy,

I replaced my 2001 Tacoma with a 2000 TLC. I love the UZJ100 and the 2UZ-FE V8 is a great motor. The good thing about the 2000+ models of course is the traction control and vehicle skid control.

I needed a vehicle that could tow, wheel, and hold more people and this thing has fit the bill so far.

I'm impressed as heck you found one with such low miles :thumbup:

[Mossyrocks]

I recently purchased an 02 tundy with the 4.7 I love the thing, might have to find one for the runner.... But really, 130k on the v8 and it still feels stronger than the chevys.

[marko3xl3]

That's a sweet lookin' ride bema! I am liking everything about it, interior, exterior (minus the :gay: cladding) color...the whole package.

If you ever plan to loose the keys, please do it around San Jose, CA :)

Congrats.

[bamachem]

lol... i'll eventually do something about that cladding like i did w/ my runner. it will be sporting an all-black look w/ the OEM 2003 18" wheels - eventually.

[aMiR904]

looks very nice, congrats! its almost impossible to find a used suv up in the northeast without any rust issues. if i do decide to buy a used land cruiser i will have to buy it down south.

[SLC Punk]

Looks very nice! It will look even better once you color match the bumpers and flares!

[p nut]

Nice. I've always loved LC's. I've been looking at 80's recently.

Speaking of, where is the forum for 40-80 LC's??

[sschaefer3]

Here you go:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/

It is more for the 40,45,55,60,62 but there are newer things in there too.

[bamachem]

LOL steve - yeah, i think i've heard of that place somewhere... :D

anyway - the LC is now mine, and the modding begins... 18" LC wheels and some AT's on the way, followed by some painted cladding and removed running boards and flares.

i'm looking for a used ARB front bumper, but can't seem to find one anywhere. my distant "plan b" is to get a brush guard for now to at least mount some lights on until i get a good price on an ARB or TJM Classique. i'm going to make some sliders, and crank the torsion bars up front and add air bags in the rear. that should keep me busy for a while... :D

[Good Times]

what no bling bling 24 inchers?!?!

[DHC6twinotter]

Andy, I've been pondering the 100 series as a possibility for my next vehicle. From what I hear, the 2uz is a fantastic motor.

I do have a couple questions:
First, what kind of gas mileage do you get? I've heard 16mph on the highway for some folks, but is that consistent with what you get?
Second, do you think a 100 is heavy enough to pull a trailer with a 2nd gen 4Runner?

I'm also considering a '05/'06 Tundra, FJ62, or a 4th gen V8 4Runner. Leaning towards a 100 though, but the Tundra would be best for towing. Too bad Toyota doesn't sell the 105 here.

[bamachem]

LOL.. Lance, you know those are 40's on my avatar...

Daniel: I usually get about 16-17 on the highway, and about 14-15 around town. If I have a light load and baby it (cruise set at 70), I can eek out 18MPG out of it. It's not as bad as some of the stories you may hear. About the same as a 3rd gen 4runner with larger tires.

I have pulled a flatbed with a CJ7 on it and I've pulled a trailer with a 4-door Acura Legend on it with the UZJ. It pulled them easily, but the taller profile of the Jeep catching the wind was noticeable over about 65 or so. Not so much with the Acura. It pulled both fine, but at one point in the MTNs of TN and going 75MPH, I got about 8MPG pulling the Jeep. I would be more worried about the brakes than the pulling HP. Make sure the trailer has it's own brakes and everything is 100% in working order, and you should be fine as long as you're not trying to get somewhere in a hurry. I'd also add some stiffer rear springs or airbags if I were going to have that much tounge weight for long periods of time - along with some LT rated tires (they come with P-rated tires)

[Good Times]

holy crap 40's? ok damn I'm completely out of touch with those blingers!

[DHC6twinotter]

Awesome, thanks.

18 isn't horrible....worse than the 20-21 I get now, but still not bad.

There's a possibility of me moving out West sometime in the next few years, so I would probably be towing my 4Runner cross country on a U-haul trailer. Maybe. Airbags would definately be on my list of things to add.

Now in a dream world, I would have a Tundra, UZJ105, my 4Runner, and a FJ45LWB. :D

[bamachem]

Lance- it's photoshopped... Although I did see some 34's on a local hooptie recently.

Daniel- it's not meant for long HD towing, but I would have full confidence that it would be 100% fine. New fluids, new thermostst and coolant, air bags, aux transmission cooler, good tires, and lots of gas money would be all you'd need.

[bamachem]

Looks like it's going to be these:

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/IMG_4104.jpg

plus 4 of these:

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/196422879-M-1.jpg

OEM 18x8 Cruiser Wheels in Graphite with 285/60/18 Cooper Zeon LTZ tires.

Should have them on next week! :D

[Scuba]

Shoot did someone say 18-21 MPG was bad..


Try 15 mixed then we'll talk

[bamachem]

I can get 18 on the interstate... 15 around town though. but hey, it's a cruiser and it's comfy. :D

[Scuba]

Meh, Well I get 22 straight highway, But thats not very often..

Meh, Cruizer smoozer :tongueout:

[bamachem]

OH yeah, well I can get 32 in my wife's convertible solara... :tongueout:

[Lee]

i am very pleased with my 4r's gas mileage. i drive it like a grandpa and it gets 18.5 consistently in the city, and about 22 highway.

im not sure how the epa ratings are somewhat lower

[bamachem]

wheels and tires go on today.

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/IMG00152.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/IMG00153.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/IMG00154.jpg

Yesterday, I stripped off the Flares and cleaned up all the mess that the fender gasket adhesieve made. Uffff...

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/P6300051.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/P6300053.jpg

The bad news is that I found body damage (dents) on both rear panels from the damn flares pushing into the body by exterior contact. Nice - adding more to the "to-do" list.

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/P6300052.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/P6300054.jpg

This morning, I cranked the torsion bars to raise the front just over an inch. It had over 2" of rake. I got it back to 1", and may go just a hair higher after the new tires are on.

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/P6300055.jpg


Next up : Running board removal...

[bamachem]

tires and wheels on... MUCH BETTER.

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/P7010057.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/P7010058.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/P7010059.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/P7010060.jpg

[DHC6twinotter]

Looks nice!

[bamachem]

thanks.

next is either a custom aluminum or steel bumper or possibly painting the OEM tupperware so that it's all black. i haven't decided if i want to paint first, or wait on the bumper before painting.

i'm also going to make some step sliders in the near future. i may just let my local fab shop make them (the guys that are going to make the bumper for me).

i've already swapped out the door speakers for some Polk DB's and ditched the stock sub for a DVC 12 - all powered by a 6-channel alpine amp.

i have a set of 100-Watt Hella Rallye 2000's sitting in the garage - think 9"+ dinner platters.... if it looks like it's going to be a while before they can get to the bumper, then i may fab up something with my 110 machine to mount them temporarily while i test my patients. we'll see...

so far, these tires are VERY quiet on the road - almost as quiet as the worn out Michelins. this was the first set the guys at the shop said they have seen and they were all drooling over them. they said they were very true and balanced out very well with very little wieght - which shows with the smooth ride on the road. i'm getting an alignment tomorrow, since i jacked the front up over an inch and threw the caster/camber all to hell.

[bamachem]

got the front bumper built, fogs and driving lights in place, and now I've just been dragging around on getting it powder coated.

thread of the bumper build is here (http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=8437.0)

Last week, I painted all the gray trim and rear bumper to match the truck.

Getting there....

http://www.4rnr.net/cruiser/cruiser-painted-cladding.jpg

compared to...

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/P6300053.jpg

[bamachem]

Bumper progress pics from the blackberry... :D

7018 stick = stacked dimes on the frame bracket (not me laying the bead though...)
http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/pic10.jpg

fitting things up...
http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/pic11.jpg

getting there. just a little more wing trimming...
http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/pic12.jpg

some 6010 stick on the 1/8" plate on the insides:
http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/pic13.jpg

more 7018 stacked dimes- this is on the outside where the 1/8" sheet meets the 3/8" plate.
http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/pic14.jpg

7018 on the winch plate - not a high-stress piece, just for placement.
http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/pic15.jpg

final shop fitting...
http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/pic16.jpg

profile:
http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/pic17.jpg

i'm really pleased w/ how the lines turned out.
http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/pic22.jpg

didn't get a chance for any decent pics, but here's a couple more w/ the HELLA 2000's on it...

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/pic25.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/pic24.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/pic23.jpg

[bamachem]

Now I just took a step backwards... :D

It's time to get the front bumper powder coated. That means it has to come off for at least a week, probably more. I went ahead and took it off and put the stock plastic back on, then sprayed it to match as a temp fix. Painted the grill black and the T emblem with some Hammered Gray - not sure I'm going to leave the emblem painted though...

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/blacked-out-2.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/blacked-out-1.jpg

[bamachem]

Next up: Electric Cooling Fan with Variable Speed Controller.

I'm mounting a Ford V8 19" Electric Radiator Fan inside the UZJ OEM Shroud, similar to an install I did on my 99 4Runner back in 2005. I will be using a 50-amp Variable Speed Fan Controller made by Delta Current Control.

http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss38/gtbarnes/FANS/GTR-2036BK.jpg

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_eYgl6nHlDh4/TCEqz4wPd5I/AAAAAAAAFco/XfBDn8Fxnig/s640/DSC09731.JPG

From the 4Runner install:

http://4rnr.net/images/6-11-05-004.jpg

The idea is to get rid of the mechanical fan, install the electric fan into the OEM shroud, and let the VSC control the fan speed based on the cooling duty that is required to maintain a constant radiator temperature. I had it installed in the 4Runner for two years before selling it and was very pleased with the added performance gain, quiet engine, and how well the controller ramped fan speed up and down as needed instead of the constant whirrrr of the mechanical fan. The zeihl-abegg type blade design of these fans are not only more efficient, but MUCH more quiet than the OEM design.

[bamachem]

Today, I pulled the OEM mechanical fan and shroud and installed the electric fan with variable speed controller.

So far, it's much quieter. Can't really tell any difference on the road. I'm going to be driving about 1000-miles this week for work, so I'll have some good checks on MPG. I made the same trip this past week. We'll see if there's any difference.

One thing I did notice is that if idling, it will take a good 10-min for the truck to build up enough heat to kick the fan on. The radiator stays cool for at least 6-7 minutes with no sensible heat at all. Once the fan does cut on, it does so at a low speed - just enough to keep temps in check.

Also installed today was a set of DDM 55W HID lights, 4500K color. I got them with the relay/harness and installation was a breeze. The oem reflectors in the Hundy's have a great low-beam cutoff, and so using HID's in the stock housings isn't an issue.

Light output is amazing. The 55W HID has around 5X the lumens as a 55W Halogen. I'll get pics of the beam, etc up later this week.

[Cebby]

Hurry up and finish this one so you can sell it to me. :)

[bamachem]

har. har. Funny man... :D

I'm trying to decide now if I want to keep the bumper I built or just stay w/ the OEM tupperware and add a TJM nudge bar - painted to match, of course.

The reason is two-fold. I don't offroad anymore. Ever. A steel bumper is primarily for front-end collision protection and offers a secondary means of mounting some aux lights. However, I now use the truck for work a LOT, so a more "professional" look is desired...

[bamachem]

Resotred and Refinished my Leather Seats (http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=9275.0)

[bamachem]

I have developed huge CRACKS in the tread shoulder where the tread meets the sidewall in all 4 of my Zeon LTZ's. Pics will be posted soon... NOT GOOD! 1.5 years old and about 34,000 miles. Still have 6/32 of the original 14/32 of tread left too!

I got in the Hundy last night to go to the store - it's been sitting there since Friday afternoon. Anyway, had a flat. No biggie - probably picked up a nail in the tread. Aired it up and went 1.5-miles to the store. Came out in 3-min to find the tire half-flat. OH SCHIDT! Booked it home and the tire went flat as I turned in the neighborhood. Limped it home and changed it out w/ the spare in the garage.

It has HUGE cracks along the tread, both inside and outside edges. Cracks are in ALL FOUR tires!

I called Cooper and got a Customer Service Rep on the phone and then emailed them the pics. Cooper Zeons have a "premium" warranty for the life of the tire on defects. They will give me a new set 100% free, or I can get an adjustment/credit from the MSRP of these tires towards another set of Coopers.

Here's the pics... Not so sure I want another set of these - even though they have been wearing VERY well with no issues until now.

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/Zeon-LTZ-Cracked-1.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/Zeon-LTZ-Cracked-2.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/Zeon-LTZ-Cracked-3.jpg

I've been on the phone with "Julie" at Cooper Customer Relations and dealing with my local Cooper retailer over the counter. Here's what they're going to do.

Cooper has a national back order on both the 285/60/18 and the 275/70/18. However, they retain a small stock in their DC's for warranty adjustments, etc. They are going to ship a set to my local retailer for installation via UPS for delivery on Wednesday.

They will pay for 100% replacement on all 4 tires as they are covered under their "Premium" Warranty, whatever that is. Mounting and Balancing is also covered. Zero cost to me for the swap.

However, I am going to bump up to LT 275/70/18 this time and I will have to pay the difference in the cost of the tire (about $50 each) and they simply won't cover this upgrade no matter how much I complained about the safety, inconvenience, etc.

In all, I will have a new set of tires and out of pocket around $200.

Even though the crackes caused me some worry, I'm actually pretty happy with the outcome - as long as all goes smoothly.

I have to say that I have been extremely pleased with these tires up to now. Very smooth ride, quiet, and wear like steel. These have 34K on them and have ~ 43% of the original tread (6/32" vs 14/32 new). The LT's will have 16/32" of tread depth. Hopefully they won't have any issues.

I did a google search for "Zeon LTZ Cracking" and only found one reference on an F150 forum. He has 35k on them with 5/32" remaining tread, just like these. Maybe it was a bad batch of rubber? Weird, that's for sure.

In all, I would have to give Cooper a thumbs-up on handling this warranty though. Zero cost replacements on 60% worn tires is standing behind your product - as they should in a case like this!

[bamachem]

new tires will be in tomorrow afternoon...

In the meantime - Sold the LX steering wheel last night on eBay for $495. I just couldn't ever get used to the wood surfaces for driving. I've just had leather under my palms for too long. :D

I chatted with Don at Dallas Custom Steering Wheel (http://www.dallassteeringwheel.com) yesterday for a replacement OEM lether-covered wheel @ $269. I know I'm getting the extra padding (1/16" thick for an extra $30 - makes the wheel slightly thicker), but I'm trying to decide if I want the German stitching (extra $30) and the perforations at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock (extra $75) like the OEM leather had. I'm going to get one of his "core charge" wheels covered and then send my original back to him afterwards, so this should go quick. I expect to have the wheel by Monday or Tuesday of next week as it's only two business days from payment to shipment on non-perforated leathers.

************************************************** **************

New wheel was ordered today. I'm going with the original Oak Leather with extra padding and a Mahogany Basting Stitch (german).

Here's a pic of the leather. The thread I'm getting is the one on the right - in the BMW zig/zag pattern instead of the "baseball stitch".

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/LC-steeringwheel-Mahogany.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/BastingStitch.jpg

[bamachem]

New tires going on today. Here's some pics comparing the 285/60/18 Zeons with 6/32" of remaining tread versus new 275/70/18 with 16/32" of tread.

http://www.4rnr.net/cruiser/Zeon-275-1.jpg

http://www.4rnr.net/cruiser/Zeon-275-2.jpg

31.48" to 33.15" when comparing new to new. The used tires have lost another 0.6" in overall diameter on top of that.

The price was not quite the $200 I was expecting... The shop is charging me $74/tire for the difference in sizing. Comes out to $323 with tax.

But wait, that's not all...

When removing the Driver-Rear wheel, THREE of the 5 lugs were cross-threaded from the last tire monkey that did a rotation for me.

One Toyota dealer has 1 stud and 3 nuts and the other Toyota dealer across town has 2 studs and 1 nut. Either way, to get at least 2 of the broken studs replaced, then they have to go to BOTH dealerships for the parts, so the tire shop is going to go ahead and replace 3. Since this shop wasn't the one who did the last tire rotation, then the cost is going to be tacked on to the bill. At $4.89 per stud and $12.79 per lug nut, all the driving around to pick up parts, and then the labor to pull the rear drum/rotor and R&R the studs, it's going to add another $100-$150 easily to that tab.

In all, I expected to spend around $475-$500, but a BIG part of that are the stupid cross-threaded lugs.

At any rate, a LT 33" set of tires for 18" wheels out the door including mounting and road-force balancing on a Hunter 9700 for that price is good enough for me considering that I would normally be out $1200 for all this...

[bamachem]

Just picked it up. $430 and change was the total damage. About $95 of that just for the studs.

Verdict: WELL worth it.

The ride is superb. These are as quiet as I remember my old Michelin LTX's to be. I was expecting a STIFF ride with the Load Range E rating, but I am PLEASANTLY surprised that the ride feels very plush - maybe due to the increased sidewall height. I don't feel any appreciable power loss, and the rubber FINALLY fills up the fenderwells the way it's supposed to.

These are 33.1" tall tires on a NON-LIFTED cruiser. Amazing that they come with puny 30" michlins from the factory when this looks SO much better!

I'm ecstatic with them on the drive back from the tire shop, I'm very pleased with how Cooper handled this, and will know more about differences/performance after going hunting in north Mississippi in the coming weeks. :D

http://www.4rnr.net/cruiser/Zeon-275-4.jpg

Sandwiched between the boss' Sequoia and a Scheduler's GS350 :D

http://www.4rnr.net/cruiser/Zeon-275-3.jpg

[4x4mike]

Looks nice even if you were out $500.

[Crinale]

definitely looks good. and you would have had to do the studs either way, so $323 for $1200 tires is a pretty damn good deal :thumbup:

[bamachem]

Especially since I only had 6/32" of tread left on the old ones, so new tires were coming up in less than 10,000 miles anyway... As much as I'm driving it now, that would be about 4-months.

Just got some pics in from Don at Dallas Custom Steering Wheel (http://www.dallassteeringwheel.com) of my completed rebuild. 2-days as promised and my wheel is ready to ship. I will have it in-hand by Monday. :D

Only problem that I see is that this is an 02+ wheel. I guess I'll find out first-hand if these fit OK in the 98-01 cruisers....

http://www.4rnr.net/cruiser/DCSW-1.jpg

http://www.4rnr.net/cruiser/DCSW-2.jpg

http://www.4rnr.net/cruiser/DCSW-3.jpg

http://www.4rnr.net/cruiser/DCSW-4.jpg

http://www.4rnr.net/cruiser/DCSW-5.jpg

http://www.4rnr.net/cruiser/DCSW-6.jpg

http://www.4rnr.net/cruiser/DCSW-7.jpg

http://www.4rnr.net/cruiser/DCSW-8.jpg

http://www.4rnr.net/cruiser/DCSW-9.jpg

$269 for the recover
+$30 for the custom stitching (instead of baseball-type stitch)
+$30 for the extra padding
+$17 to ship it to me
___________________

$346 total for the work
___________________

+$75 core charge on top of that (paid $421, getting this part back)

Having a nice, plush, NEW feel to the only part of the vehicle that you actually touch with your bare skin = PRICELESS.



You will have to take my word for it until you FEEL the difference for yourself, but when I replaced the worn leather on my old 4Runner with a new kit, the feel of the entire truck changed. It was thicker, so it made the wheel feel better in my baseball-mit hands. It had a cushioned feel and added grain instead of the slick japanese leather feel of the OEM skin. It really did make driving the truck go from OK, to actually being more enjoyable. I would get in the truck after driving my acura for a few days and as soon as I'd grab the wheel, I would think to myself how much better that one felt than the one in the Acura. It really does make a difference since it really is the only piece of the entire vehicle that you have to constantly contact/feel with bare skin while driving.

[4x4mike]

That's some nice work. I'd love to see how it's done. I agree with you about the steering wheel and feel. For me the shape and style of the 4runner wheel is fine but the feel leaves a little to be desired. Our Subaru wheel feels much better but I don't like the shape as much as the 4runner.

[bamachem]

Here's what I have learned so far:

There are no good "kits" out there in my opinion to refurbish an OEM wheel. Only options are....
Wheelskinz @ $40 and "OK" fit/finish
Take your chances with the guy in South FL @ $150 and HOPE you get what you pay for...
Get your OEM wheel professionally recovered (or buy one that has been professionally recovered) for $275-$400 <-- BEST OPTION.



If you can tolerate down-time, then you have options. If you cannot, then you have 2...
OPTION 1: The Pre-Re-Covered OEM Wheels that Shane (AATLAS1X on IH8MUD) offers for $400 is a good buy IF YOU WANT 100% OEM MATCH because you have zero down time, what appears to be VERY good quality, and he is a supporting vendor here. However, the downside is lack of customization...
OPTION 2: Pay a Quality Shop who specializes in this work to recover your wheel to your specifications.
Don @ Dallas Custom Steering Wheel is a STAND UP guy who has excellent customer service.
Don gives you the most options for "customization" available and provides excellent work at very good prices.
If you send your wheel to Don, YOU NEED TO SOURCE YOUR OWN "LOANER" before sending your wheel to him.


Pics from today...

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/DSC_0200.JPG

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/DSC_0201.JPG

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/DSC_0202.JPG

[bamachem]

The power locks went nuts recently, which coincided with the CEL (http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/454017-cel-dtc-check-engine-light-but-no-codes.html). They will unlock themselves at random intervals, with the driver side doing it 90% of the time, and if it does it twice, then all locks follow on the second hit.

I wasn't sure if it was the faulty ECU causing it or not, so I pulled the ECU fuse and it still did it. At that point I knew I was going to have to dig in. First place to start was the door lock on the driver side.

I pulled the door panel off and found this little guy laying in the bottom of the door cavity all alone....

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/DSC_0194.JPG

Here's where it's supposed to be, on the lock cylinder:
http://4rnr.net/cruiser/DSC_0195.JPG

Close-up:
http://4rnr.net/cruiser/DSC_0196.JPG

Easy fix with a Zip Tie after you get it out:
http://4rnr.net/cruiser/DSC_0197.JPG

Here's how you remove the cylinder:
http://4rnr.net/cruiser/DSC_0198.JPG

And here's how you have to put it back in since the clip/sensor blocks one of the bolt heads.
http://4rnr.net/cruiser/DSC_0199.JPG

Now everything's back to working like it should!

[Lee]

nice work man :)

I like the custom cover too, nice touch with the red stitching.

[Cebby]

Hurry up and finish this one so you can sell it to me. :)


I was just kidding...

[bamachem]

:D

Come 'n get it!

Progress pics. Hoop is finished and welded on. Going to be sand blasted and PC'd tomorrow before heading to it's new owner next week! :D


Pics:

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/Bumper100-1.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/Bumper100-2.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/Bumper100-3.jpg

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/Bumper100-4.jpg

And here it is with the "dishes" from the Hella Rallye 2000's.

http://4rnr.net/cruiser/front-bumper/Bumper100-5.jpg