Squelling/Howling Sound

[ttora4runner]

So within the past week my 4runner had developed a squell/howling sound under acceleration and to some point while at idle. The noise eventually started happening upon start up as well. So I took it in too a local shop today to have them look at it. I explain to the service manager the problem and we got out to my vehicle too start it up and lol and behold the noise generates upon start up.

I get a call a little before noon and they tell me that the A/C Compresor/Clutch is shot and that it needs to be replaced (along with tow other parts). They also mention that the electrical pig ttail that plugs into had a severed wire and that it also needs to be replaced.

They quote me $850 w/o tax. :mad:

Needless, to say I didn't get the repairs done yet as that's alot of $$. They did however leave the belt off and the noise has disappared.

I'm now wondering how in the world the A/C Compressor/clutch would go out in the middle of winter. When the a/c isn't even being used. Let alone how the pig tail wire became severed.

How hard is it to change out the said parts? Should I just order new parts or just try to get by with a junkyard compressor.


My 2000 4runner currently has about 144,xxx miles on it.

[corax]

The A/C pulley is always spinning - when the A/C clutch engages, then the compressor starts spinning.

The pulley might not be too hard to replace depending on how much room there is in front of it. You might be able to unbolt the compressor from the block, but the leave the lines connected, to tilt it up and get at it easier.

Most compressors have a single bolt in the middle front of the pulley. . .
http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/T/G/78279099.gif
. . . hold the center hub from spinning and loosen the bolt in the front middle and pull the clutch hub out being careful not to lose the little shim washer (with the A/C belt on, I've been know to give the A/C clutch 12v from the battery to help hold the compressor from turning).
http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/t/C/78597997.gif

From here, depending on the compressor, there might just be a snap ring holding the pulley on - sometimes the pulley's on tight and you might have to pry one side then the other to get it off or use a puller.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/4-6l-tech/50895d1220375457-ac-compressor-pulley-replacement-2000-gt-78279096.gif

Clean everything up and put a very light coat of thin oil on the compressor snout to help the pulley slide on easier, make sure the clutch surface is clean and dry and reassemble.

[Erich_870]

subscribed...

My 99 has almost the same mileage and does the same thing when it's raining.

Erich

Edit: One other thing about the OP. Unless I'm mistaken, our rigs use the AC when the defrost is on to help dry out the cab. Can someone corroborate this for me? It's a common use of AC in new cars. I run my defrost ALL THE TIME due to the weather up here, so I've been told I'm using my compressor just as much as you guys in AZ, lol.

[Bob98SR5]

guys,

if i remember correctly on my ex's 1996 camry v6, her ac started to squeal like crazy. eventually it went out. and when she tried to engage the AC while drive, the car siezed and the engine stopped. i dont know if that was a safety measure, but thats what happened and that can be a dangerous thing when driving.

[Bob98SR5]

...oh yeah, she was quoted nearly a grand to repair and replace so the $850 sounds in the ballpark

[ttora4runner]

Dang it Bob why did you have and go and say that. :confused:

[Obi..]

:D :ban:

girl pig squeal (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2StEWupdWlQ#)
Funny cats howling (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RC-RzQrd1QM#)


Long explanation..

IMHO/E I've rarely ever seen an A/C pulley actually ever be so bad it needed replacing, ever..even then we're talking IIRC only 1 within 13 years of wrenching and only then b/c the guy insisted on it and we weren't going to argue with him.

People often forget to cycle their A/C through the winter months, in fact some of the newer Toyota's actually engage the A/C with the defrost function just so it'll cycle and clear the moisture faster. :thumbup: It's like how you should run the heater a few times in the summer to burp any air bubbles or silt out of it. When do you want to find out your heater core's screwed up? In the Summer, or in the dead of winter? ;)

With 144k+ miles some of which have seen bugs, dirt, mud, rain you'll start to see how things eventually wear out and gum up in there, but not likely to the point it's so bad it needs to be replaced just yet.

If it were me, and having just gone over this issue on a friend's Tacoma, I'd just take some soapy water in a spray bottle and start shooting it into the front edge of the assembly (disconnect the battery first) and let it soak for a bit, then go back at it again and start working the pulley around while you keep squirting the soapy water in there and rinse it out a few times with a garden hose. Last time we did one it worked out great. Then while you're in there see if the wire/lead is indeed bad and just fix it.

After all that, keep your patience and pull off the fan and clutch and spray the radiator and A/C condenser from the engine bay outwards with a hose sprayer all over the fins.

You'll be surprised at the pile of muck and silt you'll find under the rig after and surrounding the front of the tires.

[Obi..]

As for frozen pulleys, we got one freed up by spraying it all down with tri-flo and doing the same thing. Basically you're flushing out miles and years of built up crap. The oil won't affect anything much and gets flung out once the pulley's been moving at idle a while and you cycle the A/C power switch a few times, just be sure you don;t go letting things sit and soak for hours and also really clean up all over afterwards and don't go throwing a belt. In fact, use an old belt for the process, clean everything up, and install a new one for good measure. The cleanup and oil will highlight any rust or other issues you might have to fix while you're in there, it's good O.C.D. preventative maintenance in the end. :spit:

Worst case you wasted 3 hours doing this stuff that likely needs to be done anyhow, best case i just saved you $800+ and you then have to send me a case of Boylan Root Beer with some of that $. :D

[YotaFun]

Hmm...
This sounds familiar to me and bout the same story when it happen to my truck.
Trust me on this and try the easier way first.
Just replace the A/C Idler pulley at the very BOTTOM of the engine....

IF you noise sounds like this:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Engine%20Belt%20Issue/th_MOV02712.jpg (http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/Nighthief/4Runner/Engine%20Belt%20Issue/?action=view&current=MOV02712.mp4)

Then go from there.
And I did see in your other thread about the busted wire, it should go in there.
Thats the pressure switch so when your a/c engages the PS pump can compensate for the power being taken from the motor to turn the a/c pully. or something along those lines (just woke up...)

But I have replaced that idler pulley three times now.
Mud and water can get in it easily and ruin it.
Finally the last time I packed some marine grade grease between the dust shield and the pulley itself, and haven't had an issue.

[ttora4runner]

Nope mine doesn't sound like that.



Anyone now the part number for the idler pulley bearing? All I been able to find is the pulley itself.

[Obi..]

What's your chassis code? VZN or RZN -180 or -185?

Master Code for the parts is either 88410 or 88440B I believe, honestly it's the exact same part as on my '95, they either never changed the part to a newer style, or the newer part superseded mine when we replaced it last year..see if Mark P. can chime in.

[ttora4runner]

These are probable two really stupid questions but I thought I'd ask anyways.

1. Would there be any problems with running the vehicle without the ider pulley on it (going to see wheat he part n# is on the bearing)? The belt is already off of it and has been since the shop looked at it.

2. Would not have the belt on the idler pulley, ac compressor effect gas mileage at all? Since I got it back from the shop after they looked at it I've been getting about 14 mpg a drop of about 3 to 4 mpg.

[ttora4runner]

What's your chassis code? VZN or RZN -180 or -185?

Master Code for the parts is either 88410 or 88440B I believe, honestly it's the exact same part as on my '95, they either never changed the part to a newer style, or the newer part superseded mine when we replaced it last year..see if Mark P. can chime in.


VZN185L

[Obi..]

Then yeah, that should be the right part #. Double check w/ your dealer first though.

[Crinale]

If there is no belt to tension, there is no harm in running the truck with the tensioner removed..

[ttora4runner]

Looks like I'll be picking up the expansion valve and dryer from Rock Auto and a remanufactured ac compressor w/ hub and clutch off ebay.

What else do I need to get that I'm not thinking of?

[ttora4runner]

Does the hub on the front of the compressor need to be replaced as well or can it just be reused.