Baby Beast Evolution

[AxleIke]

Been a while since I've been on. But, figured I'd update with my new build. Its going slow, but so far, so good.

Specs:

1989 4runner
3.4L swapped by ORS
R151
dual cases with 4.7 in the rear
4.88 gears
ARB Front/Rear

Rear Axle: 1997 4runner
Front Axle: 1995 FZJ80 with HP third

Front suspension: 3 Link with 14" King Remote Resivoir Coilovers, with HellFire Fab high steer fabricated knuckles and arms

Rear suspension: 4 link rear with coils and 14" bilstein remote res shocks.

Tires are currently going to be 35" MTR Kevlars, that may change.

Looking at running a 15 gallon cell in the rear.

Lots of body work.

[AxleIke]

**Copied from other forums, sorry for the wierd read**

Finally made some progress. I got the wrecked hood, and outter fender off this weekend, and got my tcases out of my 87. I'm going to build the 89 because, aside from the front end damage, the body is in much better shape than my 87.

Tonight I got the front clip removed. I'm not sure how I'm going to button it up yet but the current thought is to build tubing supports for the body panels, and construct "inner fenders" out of some sheet metal to hold accessories, and electrical. Either way, it will likely retain full body width as this will be DD capable.

This weekend I hope to pull the r151 out of our turbo truck and get the r150 from this truck re-installed into the turbo truck so it can continue DD duties. We'll see how far I get on that.

Some pictures:

Truck as it sat when I brought it down:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4613.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4618.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4614.jpg

Truck came with brand new MTR Kevlars on it in the 35x12.5 variety. I've read good things about them, so I plan to run these for a while, see how I like them:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4615.jpg

And the nice front end components that will be sold, except for the CO's

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4617.jpg

And the lame progress:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4619.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4622.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4621.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4620.jpg

and my first screw up. (I'm sure there will be many, many more)

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4623.jpg

Took me another hour to get all of that stripped, extentions cut, and everything re-soldered. So far, everything works again, so I got all the connections remade. Silly stuff like this tends to chap my ass, but, its all good. Just gotta keep my eyes on BOTH sides of the cut.

Ordered up the final few joints and bushings from both Poly and Ballistic to begin the front suspension. I'm still shopping around for a good price on tube. So far, best choice seems to be online, but I'm hoping a local yard will have what I need. I've decided to go with 2" OD, .375 wall lowers and 1.5" .250 wall upper, and panhard. Still, I have a bunch of work to do before I need the tube, so I've got plenty of time to look around.

At first I thought the front hoops would be able to be reused, but looking at the height now, it doesn't look good. Too bad, as they are nice units. ORS built the truck, and they did either a nice job building the hoops, or a nice install on Total Chaos' hoops. However, I think they are going to be too low to acommodate the ride height I'm trying to achieve. We'll see.

Hopefully I'll have more this weekend.

[AxleIke]

Got a bunch of errands run this weekend, as well as the house cleaned and taxes done.

Bought a bunch of steel on Friday, and today I picked up the rest from my folks place.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4632.jpg

Lower link material is .250 wall 2" OD DOM. May also sleeve this inside with .120 wall tube, just for the heck of it. We'll see. To me, this 2" seems SUPER strong, but I've thought that before.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4633.jpg

Also on Friday, I got a screaming deal on this. Refurbed Milwaukee portable band saw. Oh man, does it cut REALLY nice, super clean, and very quiet. Don't even need hearing protection.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4629.jpg

I cleaned off the R151 and transfercase at the local carwash. Took 20 bucks, and its still not perfect, but its a TON better than it was, and the little bits of extra crap I can take off pretty quickly.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4635.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4630.jpg

On Saturday I got the fuel and exhuast systems removed, so I'm close to having my blank canvas.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4625.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4626.jpg

Lastly, I picked up my axle from my folks place. I'm super excited to get this baby under the truck. Obviously, it will also need a visit to the car wash first.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4627.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4628.jpg

[AxleIke]

Last weekend, I got the 80 axle all cleaned up, all the brackets, etc.. plasma's off, and the axles/birfs/knuckles cleaned up. Took a long time, as everything was quite rusted. However, the birfs, bells and knuckles all look good, and there was plenty of good grease left inside.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4647.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4648.jpg

Last week, I got some mock up knuckles from HellFire Fab-Works. Billy is a GREAT guy to work with, and has been really cool in all our communications. These are mock up ONLY, and are simply to allow me to set up the steering, and panhard angles before the new knuckles come out.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4649.jpg

To get everyone on the same page, these are what the actual knuckles will be like, once the next batch is done being cast:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_0UeDtG_3E_o/TVm_ZY9nuZI/AAAAAAAAKYE/leyxqxjINx8/s640/P1000801.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_0UeDtG_3E_o/TVm_a7WrbzI/AAAAAAAAKYM/87E8xY3ZlSM/s640/P1000802.JPG

Next, I tore down my old dual cases, and found this lovely gem awaiting me:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4639.jpg

Looks like that area isn't seeing oiling as it should. Everything else in the case was clean.

I cleaned up the r151 case and installed that as my new crawl box. Nothing is sealed and no oil is in, as everything will need to be pulled again, so I can install 23 spline stuff from Marlin. For mock up, this will work just fine.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4640.jpg

Then, everything got bolted back together. I always forget how LONG this thing is.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4641.jpg

Got everything in the truck, and started messing with drivetrain angles.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4642.jpg

Then I spent about 2 hours with a tape measure, and a beer, sitting on the floor staring at this thing.

This is where it sits.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4643.jpg

On my other runner, I cut out the floor, and did a full flat bottom. I hated the noise of that thing, and the lack of a center console, as well as the position it forced the seats to be in.

This has the 3.4 at a 3 deg back angle, stock appears to be 5. I'm tempted to leave it here. However, the loss of clearance is what has kept me from calling this final.

On the one hand, in order to triangulate the lowers on the front, to cut down on over-steer, I will need to drop the lowers slightly below frame level to keep them from hitting on the frame rails at full bump (theoretically. The bump may not be that severe, or even possible given the engine position)

However, this is far lower than those will need to be.

Anyway, this will result in some more thinking, and deciding what compromises are acceptable.

[AxleIke]

Not a lot of time to work this weekend, but I got all of the IFS carefully removed so it can be shipped out, and started cutting. I'm not looking forward to the grinding.

All of the IFS out:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4650.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4651.jpg

And 10 minutes with the plasma got rid of everything on one side. Got later, and I don't like to be loud late.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4652.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4653.jpg

Hopefully I'll have more time next weekend, and can get the rest cleaned up.

[slosurfer]

awesome!! This is going to be sweet!

How much will you want for the Total Chaos stuff?

[Obi..]

:flipoff: I hate you in a love/hate sort of way man. :angel:

Let's see this, I'm jealous! :thumbup:

[AxleIke]

awesome!! This is going to be sweet!

How much will you want for the Total Chaos stuff?


Thanks man! Unfortunately, the TC stuff is already sold.

[AxleIke]

:flipoff: I hate you in a love/hate sort of way man. :angel:

Let's see this, I'm jealous! :thumbup:



LOL. Thanks man! I'll be making more progress soon.

[slosurfer]

awesome!! This is going to be sweet!

How much will you want for the Total Chaos stuff?


Thanks man! Unfortunately, the TC stuff is already sold.


Cool! That's probably better anyways, I don't have to figure out how to pay for it... LOL!

[AxleIke]

LOL!

[Crinale]

looks like a fun project.. youve been hiding it from us! haha

[AxleIke]

Not for too long though. Only been making progress for a month or so.

[Crinale]

ah nice.. definitely a cool project..

[AxleIke]

Progress has been good and bad this weekend.

I started off yesterday trying to bend up some tube for the skeleton of my subframe. Mistook a line in the bending grease for my actual line, and messed up 40 bucks worth of tube. Spent a bunch of time trying to figure out if it was salvageable, decided it wasn't, and then decided I didn't like the design at all anyway.

Back to the drawing board, but I was really frustrated so I decided to continue work on the front.

I got some gouging tips for the plasma, which work really well. Took off all of the welds reasonably quickly, but more importantly, without the numbing, deafening experience of the grinder. Quick work with a disk and it was all cleaned up:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4655.jpg

Finished off the other side as well.

I also got a stand off for the plasma tip, and it works amazing. I was able to whip out some frame plates fairly quickly, touched up the edges with the belt sander, and hole sawed/step drilled some weld holes.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4657.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4656.jpg

I only got the driver side cleaned up and drilled, the passenger side will have to wait until tomorrow.

I got this side all welded up. I'm happy with the weld penetration, as it seems really solid on both surfaces, but I'm not happy with the presentation of the welds. While I realize that the quality, and not the look, counts, I am trying hard to improve my technique. I just cannot, for the life of me, get a "stacked dimes" look. It ALWAYS comes out looking like this long blobous bead, with no stacking at all. I'm thinking it has to be the angle that I hold the gun at, because I notice on my overhead welds, they look a lot less uniform, and that has to do with the awkward position. I also think it may be that I'm moving more of a U than a C when stitching the weld, but I can't seem to get the C.

Anyway, here is the finished product:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4658.jpg

and the weld

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4659.jpg

I also get a ton of spatter. Others I talk to get hardly any. I've found the anti-spatter spray works really well, but I can't figure out where the settings are off. I have the tip out of the cup a bit, so it maintains a good arc, the gas pressure is good, cup is kept fairly clear, and I follow the settings listed inside the machine. I've tried playing around, and don't get much difference in the spatter.

Anyway, thoughts or suggestions are welcome on the welding techniques, I'm at a bit of a loss.

[AxleIke]

Well, I did the other side today. I ran a lot of practice beads before hand. I tried a slower wire speed, as this is a 175, and with the mix I've got, I'm running the highest voltage possible. Didn't make a difference with the wire speed. Also tried a slower weld speed, and it just bubbled up and screwed up the tip.

Got onto Miller's website and saw that you can make a tighter bead with better penetration by pulling the bead, rather than pushing. Tried it, and nothing. Bead is tighter, but still not ideal. Fairly frustrated with it.

Anyway, here is the final product.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4663.jpg

Welds:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4664.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4665.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4666.jpg

[AxleIke]

Since I need to rework the subframe, and have been doing a ton of thinking about the suspension, I decided to start looking at the basics: wheel base and axle placement.

So, I took 3 measurements: Stock at 103 ish, 106, and 110.

The tire is on the jack to simulate ride height at my ideal height, 20" at the frame.

Here is stock for reference:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4669.jpg

My preference is here, at 106. The pro's are that the axle is back far enough to make fenders easy enough to modify to fit the tires, and everything looks nice. Cons are frame fitment, and uptravel.

Here is where the tire sits:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4670.jpg

As you can see, uptravel sucks, which is why this would almost necessitate frame modification:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4675.jpg

The oil pan is going away:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4677.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4673.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4678.jpg

Now, the other option is 110. The axle is in front of the oil pan, and the frame comes up, giving a lot more uptravel. The approach angle becomes almost 90 deg as the tires push forward of frame, though a bumper would likely stick out a bit.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4671.jpg

The problem here is making the fenders work. It would almost require a dovenose, which would not work to keep the police off my back. I could work some tube fenders, and go for the 70 series LC look, but still, tricky. Steering also becomes a hassle here, as, even with a reverse throw box, the pitman arm is going to stick out a ways.

Anyway, any thoughts or ideas are welcome. I haven't made up my mind, and haven't thought of everything. If anyone has an idea, shout it out

[Crinale]

at 110, what about running the steering behind the axle?

also what about a compromise at 108? is there something keeping you from using that length?

[DHC6twinotter]

wow...this looks like a very cool project! It's nice to see another buildup on here. Love the 80 front axle. :thumbup:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_0UeDtG_3E_o/TVm_ZY9nuZI/AAAAAAAAKYE/leyxqxjINx8/s640/P1000801.JPG

I didn't know anybody besides Slee were making hi-steer arms. Good to know since Slee's hi-steer stuff is $$$$$$.

I'm looking forward to this build!

[AxleIke]

at 110, what about running the steering behind the axle?

also what about a compromise at 108? is there something keeping you from using that length?


110 just puts the axle under the highest point of the frame and in front of the oil pan, which is sweet. Steering behind is the way it is stock, so I'll have to see.

[Crinale]

ah, 110 makes sense then.. what wheelbase is optimal for the trails out there? cuz i know out here if you go longer than 110 your gonna start gettin in trouble..

i thought thats how the fj80 was stock.. so you could use the fj80 steering components, then figure out where to mount the steering box..

[Seanz0rz]

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/Mig-welding-tips.html

few big things here that will effect your welds

make sure you are using the correct polarity on your welder. it reverses for flux core, and usually they are set this way from the factory.

im guessing you are using gas, so make sure your gas is turned on, and to the proper setting, 15 gph sounds right, but check your suggestions in your manual. i keep my regular set at what i need, and honestly havent looked at it in the longest time, i just know where it should be.

make sure you are getting a really good ground. the clamps that come with these welders suck

maybe slow the wire a tiny bit and make larger arcs or v's or circles, whatever your technique is. this keeps the heat on the area to allow better penetration, and it will fully cover the weld area, without piling up into a big glob mess. because of the radius on the edges of the frame, you may have to make two passes.

[Obi..]

^IIRC he' in Colorado, do you need to alter the gph at altitude, or simply switching rod type solves that?
I always weld at 1450ft +/-1 b/c that's where my mig is. I will say sometimes I have issues b/c of being a southpaw, but this is different. :D

**AxleIke, keep in mind in comparison your welds are cleaner than some of the oddball factory droopy-shit welds I've seen in my day. ;)

[AxleIke]

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/Mig-welding-tips.html

few big things here that will effect your welds

make sure you are using the correct polarity on your welder. it reverses for flux core, and usually they are set this way from the factory.

im guessing you are using gas, so make sure your gas is turned on, and to the proper setting, 15 gph sounds right, but check your suggestions in your manual. i keep my regular set at what i need, and honestly havent looked at it in the longest time, i just know where it should be.

make sure you are getting a really good ground. the clamps that come with these welders suck

maybe slow the wire a tiny bit and make larger arcs or v's or circles, whatever your technique is. this keeps the heat on the area to allow better penetration, and it will fully cover the weld area, without piling up into a big glob mess. because of the radius on the edges of the frame, you may have to make two passes.


Awesome site!!! Thank you! That is exactly the kind of thing I'm looking for, as I need to see the technique. The uphill welding vids being up top there were perfect. I am going to spend some time looking there, and practice some of those techniques. Thank you again!

[AxleIke]

^IIRC he' in Colorado, do you need to alter the gph at altitude, or simply switching rod type solves that?
I always weld at 1450ft +/-1 b/c that's where my mig is. I will say sometimes I have issues b/c of being a southpaw, but this is different. :D

**AxleIke, keep in mind in comparison your welds are cleaner than some of the oddball factory droopy-shizzle welds I've seen in my day. ;)


Thanks man. On the pressure settings, I've always just run 20 ish PSI for normal position, and closer to 30 for upside down welds. Its always kept the welds fairly clean.

Does the pressure affect the weld shape, or is it simply a matter of keeping the weld clean?

[Seanz0rz]

ive seen alot of people run with no gas, just forgetting to turn it on, that will cause the massive spattering, along with a poor ground.

as for what flow you need, i have no idea if that changes with altitude, but i seriously doubt it since it is only to displace the oxygen from the weld puddle.

[Obi..]

Maybe the feed is off, like something is making the wire drag b/c that should not be happening for what he has tried adjusting.

[Seanz0rz]

good point. make sure the tension on the feed roller is tight but not too tight. usually if its not right it will just not feed at all.

[AxleIke]

Ah, good suggestions. I'll check that. Maybe the roller is too loose, making it slip a bit, so still getting the wire to feed out, but slipping enough to slow it down.

[AxleIke]

So, this is my first verison of the 3link. I will have to tweak a few measurements I think, but this is where I have the axle now, and where I'm guessing the links will sit. I have to check clearance here, but for a first stab, I like the numbers.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/threelink.jpg

Still have to check on the COG, but I think that is fairly close.

Its looking like 22" at the frame will have to do, though I may be able to sneak it down to 21. However, I'm looking at it, and I think a 2 piece front driveshaft may be needed. I see no way to make the driveshaft clear everything when flexing with the one piece. It also will make a belly pan much easier to install.

[AxleIke]

Today I spent A LONG time measuring, remeasuring, adjusting, then remeasuring, double checking, etc...

The result: The axle is positioned under the truck. WB is 110. 22 " frame height at ride height. Caster is at a *rough* 3 degrees. That will be adjusted finally when the truck is done, at a shop.

Then, I welded it to the frame with scrap. Well, strong tack welds.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4682.jpg

Then, I put the driver hub together, and mounted a tire to check for clearance, and just to get a feel for how things will look. Even stuck a CO in there to look at where I've tenatively placed link mounts in the calculator, and see how CO fits around the other junk.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4683.jpg

The shock is at 1/2 travel in this pic. Ultimately, it will come down a bit, with hopefully a 60/40 down/up ratio.

Here is where the tire sits:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4684.jpg

Approach will be halfway decent:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4686.jpg

Floor shot to show the total drop. About 4.5"

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4685.jpg

My garage is short, I wanted to get a front shot, but this is about all I got. At full lock, the tire will hit that front body mount, so off they come.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4688.jpg

After that I started measuring out and designed the brackets for the lower link crossmember. Tomorrow, I'll cut them out and get that mounted into the truck. Then finalize the numbers in the calculator, check that things fit, and start building link mounts.

[AxleIke]

Super frustrating finale to the weekend. Spent a bunch of time on wedding things, and misc house work that ate into truck time.

Also, managed to fry a GFCI box by overloading the circuit. Turns out, these things are POS's. Ah well, took me FOREVER to figure that out, but once I did, I was back in action.

I picked up a new air compressor, as the craftsman was putting out tons of water= quick destruction of electrodes and tips on the plasma= no go. Got a 30 gal belt drive, and a better drier. MUCH BETTER, and much quieter.

I also picked up Miller's new Mobile Arcstation. This thing is sweet. Great welding table with notches for clamps, and folds up to fit into an already over stuffed garage:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4700.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4701.jpg


Yesterady I got all of the old xmember brackets cut off, as well as the torsion bar mounts. Took a long time, and managed to get a nice slag burn through my double wall carharts, just below where my leather's stop. That resulted in some clenched teeth and hopping around (on my back) , which resulted in a smack of the head into the transfercase output, which resulted in howling and cursing. Not one of my finest moments, but, alas, I topped it today.

Anyway, after I got everything cut off and gouged out, I only had a few minutes of grinding, and then a few minutes with a stripping disk to clean the frame.

Today I got my invitations addressed (amazingly there are now INNER envelopes to label. And I thought cars had a lot of parts. I do what I'm told.).

I ALSO got my frame plates cut out, and the crossmember brackets made up. Now I need to position everything, and drill the brackets and crossmember:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4699.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4707.jpg

All 1/4". They will be further braced and gusseted later.

I've been practicing a bit. Still need to get stand off control down. I move the arc in and and out too much.

Here are a few of the sorta better ones:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4706.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4704.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4705.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4703.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4702.jpg

I mentioned that I topped the back dance/head smack today. I lit myself on fire. Yep. I was tacking things into place under the truck and focusing on keeping the measurements correct, when I started to feel warm. I ignored it. Then I started to feel hot. I thought I was too close to my halogen work lamp, so I lifted up my helmet, and realized that my left hip was on fire. I got it out, but it burned through my carharts, the pocket and blackened my boxer shorts. WAY to close to the family jewels for comfort, and it looks like a nice sunburn now.

Note to self: WEAR LEATHERS EVEN IF TACKING THINGS INTO PLACE.

So, a sucky weekend with not much done and two painful incidents.

[Seanz0rz]

sounds like the time i lit my shirt on fire with a grinder... wear leathers even when grinding!!!

and i feel your pain on the wedding stuff. tomorrow is my big day!!!


welds look better, just more and more practice, something you get when you do a big project like this. do you happen to have a shop press? if you have a big enough one (at least 12 tons) you can do some practice welds and some super simple destructive testing to see how they are doing. wont be very scientific, but should let you know if they are good welds or not.

looks great, i will be paying close attention to this build.

[AxleIke]

Yeah, I have a 20 ton press. I'll give that a try as I need practice with overhead welding, so I'll rig up some scrap and weld it upside down, and then test it with the press.

[AxleIke]

Had a fairly productive weekend. I picked up a 4'x4' piece of 1/4" plate, which I can barely lift, but managed to get situated on my floor so I could cut pieces from it.

I then began building the rear crossmember of my subframe. It will bolt to the frame using 1/2" hardware, through the frame.

This took almost the whole weekend, but it was worth it. I built two frame attachment brackets, and then tacked this monster up:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4710.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4711.jpg

I know it isn't the best form to grind welds smooth, but I needed good, flat surfaces to mount brackets and the like to, so I smoothed everything out to keep it easy to weld brackets to. I beveled all the edges, so the welds sat in nice and deep, giving me plenty of weld left to hold everything together.

Here it is under the truck:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4713.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4714.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4716.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4717.jpg

My dilemma is whether or not to sleeve the frame. On the one hand, it will keep the frame from having any issues with compression from the bolts, but I think the 1/4" plate will take care of that. Because of the flush mount on the brackets holding this thing down, I will need to smooth out any welding done, meaning that the lateral strength of the sleeves won't be that good. I've got some reading to do.

[Crinale]

damn that thing is beeefffyyyy... you're doing some really good clean work to this truck :thumbup:

[AxleIke]

Lots of work, not much to show for it.

Got the frame drilled, and sleeved. That took a long time. Getting everything lined up properly, and then getting the bolts to go through. Takes forever.

Picked up a second grinder to avoid having to undo disks to change what I'm doing. I also started using a 7" flap disk on my grinder. I LOVE it. Those big flap disks last a LOT longer, and really rip through material when you need to.

Got the crossmember welded to the frame brackets. Starting to get a bit better on some of the welds. Some are less consistent than others.

Here's a better one:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4721.jpg

After that, I got the front mounts welded up, and tacked up to the frame. I then cut out, and began working on, connecting pieces, that will form the subframe. The lower front link mounts will tie into the front of these (which is why they are hanging down), and the skid plate will attach to all of this, and the transfercase mounts.

Couple of shots of where it sits:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4718.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4720.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4730.jpg

And a shot of how things are starting to look underneath the frame. Not a flat belly, but should be plenty smooth for sliding over stuff.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4731.jpg

[AxleIke]

Back at it again after a month or so.

Anyway, I started mocking up my links. And, figured out that I was going to have to change the design a bit again.

Anyway, here is how things are going:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSCN0956.jpg

I've tried two different set ups on the passenger side and driver side. One is higher than the axle center line, the other just lower. Obviously, the higher gives better roll axis numbers, but they still aren't great.

Driver side:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSCN0958.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSCN0957.jpg

Passenger side:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSCN0959.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSCN0960.jpg

Obviously, either way will require a frame notch. I think I can make that work pretty well.

This is where the upper sits. It should clear the motor mount/motor when flexed, but we'll see.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/DSCN0961.jpg

Anyway, some more pondering to do.

This is the calculator for a set up with the driverside dimensions:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/threelinkmockup.jpg

The panhard here isn't correct, but just put in there. The actual numbers will come once I get the steering box figured out. Hopefully some of that tomorrow.

[AxleIke]

Today sucked, and was kinda good. It sucked in that I figured out that my frame is tweaked up front. Just a bit on the passenger side. However, given that I have to notch the frame for the links, and the IFS frames kinda suck, I am giving some serious thought to chopping the frame just rearward of the firewall body mount and using tube (probably 2x3) for the front.

I spent a lot of time measuring today, and decided I need a second person to be sure. But something is off.

I'm also trying to figure out how to mount my steering box. Currently, if I use an FJ80 box, It will want to sit directly over the axle= bad for compression travel.

A shorter pitman arm would do the trick, but I'm still trying to wrap my head around how that will affect my turning radius.

Anyway, I decided I needed to think for a while.

I did take off my pitman arm, and reverse it to simulate an FJ80 box. Then put in a PVC drag link, and panhard rod after that.

Sorry, pictures will have to wait, camera was dead.

This is the updated calculator:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/threelinkwsteering.jpg

[AxleIke]

DETOUR!!!

It turns out that IFS frames are great for keeping IFS trucks low, but NOT good for keeping the truck low with a solid axle. It is doable, but requires some sacrifices that I don't want to do.

So, thankfully, I was able to borrow an engine hoist, and with some work of the plasma cutter, sawzall, and grinder, I went from this:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4904.jpg

To this:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4905.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4906.jpg

In a couple of labor intensive hours.

So i have a new sculpture in my garage:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4907.jpg

I hope to have the new frame built over the rest of the weekend, but I know that there are some large, unforseen, obstacles that will undoubtedly show up and put me further behind.

[DHC6twinotter]

Wow...very cool! I love this build thread.

[Obi..]

You know I'm gonna ask why you cut the frame including the vin stamping, right?
Colorado's more leniant than California? We have to plate it w/ an open spot showing the original stampings.

[AxleIke]

You know I'm gonna ask why you cut the frame including the vin stamping, right?
Colorado's more leniant than California? We have to plate it w/ an open spot showing the original stampings.



I've already had the vin id'd, and legalized here. Generally, they just check the vin on tha dash or in the door out here. I had to show the guy the one on the frame.

However, I am going to cut out and weld the vin plate back onto the new frame once its done, just in case.



Wow...very cool! I love this build thread.


Thank you!

[AxleIke]

Here is the short progress I made yesterday.

This is essentially the new frame from the firewall forward. The cross piece of 1x1 is just to hold the whole thing square during welding.

This is the same width as stock, but will be around 3-4" higher than the original (depending on what part you measure from, the stock frame is curved.)

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4914.jpg

Here are my welds. I feel like I'm getting better, but I am still having issues with getting a very consistant electrode stick-out. I wander a bit in and out, which makes, I think, for the the slight irregularities in the bead. I also seem to be better at welding longer sections, on the inside of a joint, rather than on the outside seam.

Here, the center, front piece, was beveled at as close to 45 on all sides, and was set back just slightly from the front to give an adequate weld surface for my rather newb technique. The side pieces were simply prepped to bare metal with a prep disk, and wiped off clean with a towel.

The slight "shine" you see is my anti-spatter spray. I don't know what exactly I'm doing wrong, but I get TONS of spatter, and with 1/4", the welder is as high up as it goes. Wire speed adjustment seems to get me nowhere. The spray makes it manageable after you hit the welded areas with a wire wheel/brush.

I'm currently using the circle, pause, circle technique, where I am pushing the puddle, I make a circle/oval up the seam on one piece, curve through the seam, back into the other piece, and back to essentially the center of the circle. Then, pause, then move forward with the next. Its more like a swirl motion, so the bead moves along. Part of the issue is that I'm not yet hitting circles, and I generally sit more on the oval side.

Critique's welcome.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4909.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4908.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4910.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4912.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4913.jpg

[AxleIke]

Spent a bunch of time running around today, but did get some work done.

I also spent a bunch of time on the belt sander. Takes forever, but gets good, clean angles. Wish I had something better than I do, but it works.

Anyway, just starting to mock things in place. The first thing I did was cap the ends of the frame with some 1/4" plate. I practiced some welds going vertical and overhead before trying this. They came out okay. The issue I had was that my practice welds were 1/4 to 1/4, and this was 1/4 to 1/8. Here is how they came out:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4915.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4916.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4917.jpg

Anyway, I'm not too worried about them because after the new frame is in place, all weld joints will be getting plated over.

I am still fighting angles and getting the main frame mocked up with connection pieces to the old. I seriously need a second me to hold the tape, and help think through this.

Here is where I ended up this evening:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4918.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4919.jpg

Hopefully better progress tomorrow.

[AxleIke]

Spent most of yesterday re-measureing and re-cutting and re-sanding all the angles. Even though the belt sander is slow, it does get the correct angles very nicely.

So, I got the drop sections of the frame welded up:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4925.jpg

And I worked on slowing down my travel speed, but, IMO, the welds seem worse. Still structurally sound, but not "stacking" as I would prefer. The only thing that got ugly was when I went to try triple pass welds on on the bottom side. First one layed in the beveled area nicely, but it was too deep, so I welded one pass on the one side, and then a third on the other, and it came out crappy. :confused:

Anyway, a couple shots:

Sides:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4924.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4923.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4920.jpg

And the multi pass garbage:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4922.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4921.jpg

[Obi..]

IMHO here, they look like they're setting up too fast, turn the amperage up a little bit, or shorten the stitches up a little bit to reduce the oval shaped puddles. :thumbup:

Reasons I say this..
~Long, oval puddles.
~Puddles are not set into each other enough, as in the puddle you just did cooled a little too long before you started the new puddle causing them to "hitchhike" rather than "stack like dimes/nickels".
~Material's not filling in the v-notches to the top like you want them to requiring more passes.

Try it out on some scraps and let me see what you get, again, turn up the juice just a little bit, but keep the feed the same speed. This will give you a little hotter puddle and inherently a smidge more time to play around with some room for error.

*Also consider* What's the room temperature you're welding at, as in is it a bit cold and the steels been sitting on concrete all night/day and is also cold contributing to all of this. :wrenchin:

[AxleIke]

Well, one issue there is that I cannot turn the welder up any higher. It is already at its max voltage. I really need a 212, but this is the MM175.

I will try to shorten up the puddles and the stitches though, thanks for the tip! I'll likely not get a chance to try until later in the week or this weekend, but I'll post up.

Cheers!

[AxleIke]

Back at it Saturday before a neighborhood wide power outtage ended my day early, Today was spent with the father in law, which is always a good time, so not a bad thing at all.

Over the last few weeks, I got the frame plated over the seam. I plan to add additional support once the front end is done, but I temp mounted the engine, and then lifted the front end with the cherry picker and there was zero deflection across the seam

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4933.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4934.jpg

I'm getting better on flat welding, but with how things were supported, a few of these were REALLY out of position, and very hard to see. I'd say this is pretty typical:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4935.jpg

After that, I decided that I wanted a bit more power, so I traded in the 175 an got a new 211.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4939.jpg

This weekend I got the axle re-located under the truck, and welded in place.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4936.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4937.jpg

I think this image will help show the difference in frame height. The axle is at the exact same height as before.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4678.jpg

I went from about 4" of uptravel (to the frame, so not actually something I could use) to 7.5". I may bring the axle up a bit still.

Lastly, I began working on actual link brackets, before the power went out. Getting these things mocked up is a challenge. I may re-do the short side's pictured here, as I believe I have a better design for the long sides.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c263/AxleIke/IMG_4938.jpg