Bud Built armor question

[RustBucket]

Hey guys,

I am running an 88' 4Runner, stock IFS, no lift or anything. I've already bashed my crossmember a few times and I think a BudBuilt skid setup would make a lot of sense. Here are my questions:

For the total underbody protection, do I need to buy the crossmember + skidplate + bellypan?

How do the parts, uhh... layer? Are the crossmember and skidplate separate and the bellypan goes between the two?

Would it be wise to just buy a crossmember first (since that's what I bash) and get the rest some other time, or is that financially very unwise?

[Cebby]

Yes, you need the 3 pieces.

I bought the setup with the intention of using it on my 93. I think it fits 86-95 (gotta check that for sure).

Anyway, the front skid overlaps the front of the bellypan and the bellypan is on top of the crossmember.

I sold my crossmember to Marc P, but still have the Skid and Bellypan (can't use it with my UZ swap since I have stuff moving around). They are freshly powdercoated too...

[RustBucket]

Hmmm...

I'm really thinking due to my budget I might want to just get a crossmember for now...

But what would you sell those two pieces for? Shoot me a PM or an IM.

[AxleIke]

I have just the skid plate. It is absolutely awesome.

I have a stock front skid, a custom plate for between my front and rear IFS xmembers, and nothing covering the driveline. I've never hit the front driveline, but the added protection on the xcase is invaluable.

Their mounting system is great as long as you coat the threads with antiseize before you put them on. They don't tell you that, and i found out the hard way that it sucks big time if you don't.

Other than that, it is an absolutely top notch product. I highly recomend it.

[waskillywabbit]

I've met Bud in person...great guy with great products. I have his crossmember on my 85...well for my 85 right now...on the shop floor. :D

:guitar:

[amgraham]

Here are some pics of the crossmember, front skid, and belly pan on my 87 Runner. I highly recommend them as they have saved me several times. If you can afford it buy them all at the same time and Bud will probably make you a package deal (he did for me). My only complaint is the belly pan is made of a thinner gauge metal than the front skid so if you come down on it it will bend up into the front driveshaft. I may reinforce that part but at least it saved me a driveshaft (I came down hard on it several times to do that BTW).

http://www.amgraham.com/photogallery/DSC05754-800X600.JPG
http://www.amgraham.com/photogallery/DSC05753-800X600.JPG

[91ToyTrck]

Cebby

How much would you be willing to sell the front skid and belly pan? I'm located in VA, so shipping will probably be needed because of my work schedule. I have a good quote from Bud already, but I always like to save money where I can for other purchases.

[blknblu]

I have the crossmember and t case skid only. I did pop for a dual case skid instead of the single as I know it will eventually happen. Otherwise, I'm still beating the crap out of my stock front skid and I will leave it at that as I have an SA in the works. If you're going to stay IFS for awhile and want as you stated, "total protection", I'd get all 3 pieces and add in Sonoran Steel's rear IFS truss. I had the Downey truss before Steve started making his and his is far superior and makes a great place to attach the Budbuilt stuff. Also, for your consideration: Bud can adjust the crossmember to a body lift so that you in effect get a drivetrain lift out of the deal. I have a 1 inch BL in place so Bud made the crossmember accordingly and all I had to do was jack up the drivetrain an inch and bolt up the crossmember. So I not only got rid of the 1 1/2 inches of stock crossmember hanging down with it's weak bent to crap little skid, but I also gained the additional inch of clearance from lifting. Sounds like you're stock and a BL might look a bit funny now but it's something to consider if you have any plans to go bigger.

[xcmountain80]

Yeah you figure what they will save you repair wise and they will have saved you! They are 3/16 and tough as hell! I cant imagine what it would take to fold one of these!
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P4201867.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P4201868.jpg\
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P4201869.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P4201870.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P4201871.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P4201872.jpg

Aaron

[91ToyTrck]

I was wondering how you connect all the pieces of the Budbuilt together? Weld or Bolt?

[amgraham]

I was wondering how you connect all the pieces of the Budbuilt together? Weld or Bolt?


Bolt

[91ToyTrck]

I figured but wanted to make sure ... thanks

[norcalsvx]

i run the front skid and x member from budbuilt, great product from a great guy thanks bud
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid223/p832d1d997a0c1261b192812d15ffc588/eadda4ed.jpg

[91ToyTrck]

how come you chose not to run the belly-plate to connect the two together?

[norcalsvx]

how come you chose not to run the belly-plate to connect the two together?


i dont think it is needed the front skid runs to the rear of the a arms (that's where all the important stuff is)

[xcmountain80]

I was wondering how you connect all the pieces of the Budbuilt together? Weld or Bolt?


Bolts baby Bolts!

Aaron

[91ToyTrck]

I'm calling Bud tomorrow to see if he recieved the bellys so he can ship all 3 pieces to me. I wonder if they come with bolts? I know I have to purchase the bolts for the Sonoran Steel IFS Trruss.

[Cebby]

For the Budbuilt stuff, you reuse your crossmember to frame bolts, everything else Bud provides.

[xcmountain80]

Currently on a thread on another board I showed my install and needed to add some hardware that worked better, also I forgot to remove the stock t-case skid guard prior to install which made it vibrate bad. Well then it started to vibrate in reverse so then I added a 3/16 or so piece of flat steel with length of 23" and hole drilled at 17", 11 1/2" and 6" so that to match his pattern for the rear. Then I loosened the bolts and inserted my spacer so to speak and I will let you know how it turns out.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P4261931.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P4261930.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e31/xcmountain/P4261937.jpg

Aaron

[91ToyTrck]

wow. I haven't ever heard of anyone having any vibration problems, but that's an awsome fix to the problem. I really need to get a house with a garage so I can do things of this nature too. Do let me know how it turns out and maybe you could mention it to Bed and he could add the spacer or make it an option if this kind of problem occurs to others.

[xcmountain80]

Yeah I'll let you know. Like I said prior to the removal of the stock t-case skid there was bad vib. through and through F&R. I removed the stocker skid and noticed no vibration, then I started to notice a similar vibration but only in reverse. So going back to my thought of the the tcase coming in contact I felt around and it seemed awful close. So like I said I grabbed a piece (not sure what that was for) of flat 3/16 steel, measured his hole spacing and went to town. Im flattered on the garage comment. Though I do live in a Apt. I like my mini shop that I have created. I will let him know If I have any more problems, though in the kit he uses big ole washers for the tops of the cross members these could also be used as spacers.

Aaron

[xcmountain80]

Ok so the fix worked and there is no vib. in reverse! That extra little bit helped.Need I say again what a freakin awesome product this is? These plates are mega tough and need I say it more than likely small arms proof.


Aaron

[91ToyTrck]

I should have mine by the end of the week and powdercoated. I'll post up some pics once they are on the truck.