100k mile maint. question

[mkgarrison5]

hey guys i gotta 02 tacoma extra cab 4x4 v6 with 85k miles. she will turn over 100k miles by late summer or so and i have question for ya.. other than what i list below what should i go ahead and replace at 100k miles?? thanks guys

T-Belt
Water Pump
Thermostat (total coolant drain and refill)
upper and lower radiator hoses
All drive belts

anything else??

[bamachem]

when you do the TB & WP, go ahead and have the cam seals and crank seal replaced as well along with the TB Tensioner. another ~$50 or so in parts, about 30 min in extra labor, but saving ~$500+ and a huge headache if one of them were to fail in the next 100k miles.

also: http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=55.0

[pdxsteve]

good info, thanks. unlucky me as i had the water pump and t-belt replaced but did not have them do this. I hit 121k so I guess maybe the next time I change the t-belt? we'll see....


hijak on... Nice site, bye the way, guys, spent the last few years on yotatech and I hope to see this place develop and grow quickly. hijak off

[bamachem]

typically, the seals and tensioner will be OK upwards of 180k+ from what i've read online. since i was at almost 160k and wouldn't change it again for at least another 120k, i went ahead and did everything that we could while the TB and WP were off. i didn't want to have to tear it down again to replace some $10 seal and have to spend $300 in labor to get at it.

also, i got my OEM parts and then had a local independent install everything. it saved me a TON. i spent less than $500 on the whole thing, and my local toyota dealer wanted over $1000 for the same work and them supplying the parts at MSRP, of course.

[Stevo3]

Plugs and wires too, unless you did those recently. Maybe fuel filter unless you did that recently too.

Seafoam treatment wouldnt be a bad idea either. If you do that wait to change the plugs and fuel filter until after you do the seafoam. Do one can in the gas tank and id do 2 treatments in the pvc valve. which would be 1/3 of the bottle at a time. on the second time let it sit for 3+ hours or even over night.

[MTL_4runner]

I'd go ahead and also do the spark plugs (if they haven't been done in the last 25k) and the fuel filter as well. Clean the MAF with some brake cleaner and change the air filter (unless you have a reuseable). You should also pull the pan on the tranny and clean the filter screen (if you have an auto) or dain and fill on a manual. Same goes with the transfer case and front/rear difs (use synthetic in there if you have it available locally).

Seafoam the engine according to the Wiki:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_openwiki&Itemid=60&id=seafoam_usage

I've been running 3 cans in 1/2 tank on vehicles that haven't been cleaned in a while then use it in the intake straight.

As for the original items you mentioned...

upper and lower radiator hoses - Only if the hoses feel hard/brittle, show cracks or have weak spots
All drive belts - check the belts for cracks on the ribs, if so replace

[MTL_4runner]

I'm hesitant to always recommend the seals be done on a timing belt job because I've seen cases where the mechanic damaged or did not properly install the new seal and thus you can create an issue where there was none before. Some vehicles/motors do need seals changed regularly (the old mitsibishi motors were horrible for oil leaks....they used very poor quality seals). Toyota is on the other end and I found their seals rarely ever needed changing until the motor was rebuilt (some lasting 300k miles before leaking with good oil change maintenance). So my suggestion would be to tell the mechanic to only change the seals if they are visibly weeping when you do the T-belt. Most of the time on the toyota motors, if you change your oil regularly, the seals don't need to be changed. In a rare case like overheating or if you live in a particularly hot/dry climate like AZ, you might want to just do them as preventative maintenace during a T-belt change since the seals may dry out prematurely and lose the flexibility needed to keep the oil at bay. It's good to replace the PCV valve often because if the PCV gets stuck or doesn't work properly it can force oil out the seals prematurely as well.

[bamachem]

the reason that i mentioned them is because my crank seal had a tiny weep at 158k. good to know, though!

[mkgarrison5]

yeah i have already changed the plugs, fuel filter, and mobile 1 syn in the diffs and tcase... so this is what ill tell the mechanic and or friend (probably friend bc he is cheaper lol)

replace:
T-Belt
Water Pump
Thermostat (complete coolant drain and fill)
Drive belts
Check:
Seals (cranks and the other one)
upper and lower radiator hose

sound good??
my truck doenst off road much at all.. only when hunting season rolls around but i dont mud like you guys do. i take good care of this truck bc its my primary vehicle

[gpcollen]

100k seems like a good time to do the following if they have never been done..

Brake Fluid flush
Bushing change out - sway bar, endlink, and steering rack. If I had read up on the steering rack earlier, I would have done them when I did the sway bar. One of the most cost effective PMs out there.

[mkgarrison5]

i will need brakes later on this year also and will do the brake flush when the brakes get done..

as far as the bushings go, how do you know when they go bad?? i need to watch the cost on everything thanks to teacher's pay.... damn state lol

[bamachem]

the sway bar and steering rack busings are cheap - less than $20 total for the nice poly ones. it will tighten up the steering considerably since OEM bushings are rubber. the poly steering rack bushings are a HUGE improvement in steering response and crispness.

[Tanto]

To tell if the bushings are bad, jack the front end of the truck up until the wheels are off the ground and turn the steering wheel from side to side. If you see your steering rack move at all you should replace them with something like the Energy Suspension ones.

Changing the bushings is a very simple and straightforward procedure. All you need is a large enough C-clamp and the right sockets and you can knock it out in under 30 minutes.

[mkgarrison5]

To tell if the bushings are bad, jack the front end of the truck up until the wheels are off the ground and turn the steering wheel from side to side. If you see your steering rack move at all you should replace them with something like the Energy Suspension ones.

Changing the bushings is a very simple and straightforward procedure. All you need is a large enough C-clamp and the right sockets and you can knock it out in under 30 minutes.


i am assuming you have to jack up the front end and do not put it on floor jacks?? also what do you need the c clamp for?? never done it so i am curious

[MTL_4runner]

i am assuming you have to jack up the front end and do not put it on floor jacks?? also what do you need the c clamp for?? never done it so i am curious


Here are 2 good writeups for it:
http://www.keystonekrawlers.com/Mods/Toyota/SteerBushing/TacomaSteeringBush.htm
http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/kristacoma/rackbushings/rackbushings.htm (shows how to use the clamp)

I actually prefer to do it by threading the bolt the reverse direction instead of using a clamp. If you get to the point of actually doing it I'll show you what I mean in a picture.

[mkgarrison5]

ok good deal MTL.. when i change the oil this weekend ill check out the bushings.. i have 86k miles on the tacoma so i figured it will be sooner or later before they need to be changed out

[Tanto]

Yeah, Jamie pretty much summed it up right there. The factory bushings are vulcanized into the surrounding metal so getting them out is a major deal unless you use the clamp.

Vulcanized, meaning that the rubber bushing it heated until it melts and sticks to the metal.

[gpcollen]

I just did my rack bushings (130k) and even though I did not have as much movement in the rack as others, it made a tremendous difference. I am pretty mechanically inclined and it took me a few hours - 3ish. Most time consuming part was getting the old bushings out and that damn middle bolt. I wish someone told me to make sure i have a 19mm ratcheting wrench on hand! Other issue was I did not have it up high enough to be able to swing my torque wrench when complete - just made it a PIA.

[mkgarrison5]

hmmm so at what mileage would one really want to look at changing them mainly for comfort other than just knowing that they are worn out??

[MTL_4runner]

It's not really a mileage thing, you need to get under the vehicle, have someone turn the steering wheel side to side quickly and look to see if the entire rack is moving with respect to the bushings (tierods should move but the rack itself should be stationary). If it is visibly moving, then they need to be changed.

[mkgarrison5]

ahh ok good enough thanks guys...

[surf4runner]

tranny flush, if this hasnt been done yet

[mkgarrison5]

i doubt ill ever do a complete flush.. i drain 4-5 qts every 15-20k miles and refill.. my tranny fluid has never been brown so ill keep crossing my fingers

[MTL_4runner]

i doubt ill ever do a complete flush.. i drain 4-5 qts every 15-20k miles and refill.. my tranny fluid has never been brown so ill keep crossing my fingers


If you're doing that you shouldn't have any issues.
That's not a substitute for pulling the pan and cleaning the tranny filter every so often though.

[mkgarrison5]

i doubt ill ever do a complete flush.. i drain 4-5 qts every 15-20k miles and refill.. my tranny fluid has never been brown so ill keep crossing my fingers


If you're doing that you shouldn't have any issues.
That's not a substitute for pulling the pan and cleaning the tranny filter every so often though.



honestly i am not sure how to do it.. does anyone have a write up for that?? do you clean the screen or just buy a new one??

[MTL_4runner]

honestly i am not sure how to do it.. does anyone have a write up for that?? do you clean the screen or just buy a new one??


Most of the time you can just clean it without replacing (likely your case as well).
I'll see if I can't dig up a writeup for you on this.

[mkgarrison5]

ok sounds good. ill get to it when i do my next drain and fill... about how long does it take to do it and how long for the liquid seal to set up?

[MTL_4runner]

It should take about 2 hours your first time depending on how fast you work. Most time consuming part is cleaning the edge of the pan for resealing. I usually do it on a Friday or Saturday then refill the pan with fluid in the morning and test drive.

[Tanto]

Two tips when dropping the pan:

1) Hand-thread the bolts into the bottom of the t-case well and take your time because they will cross-thread VERY easily

2) Make sure you put the pan magnets back in before you set the pan in. Finding them under a shop rag after you've filled up the tranny is not fun. Ask me how I know :(

[mkgarrison5]

how do you know?? haha sorry i had to... when i get ready to do it ill look you guys up and see if i can find a write up on it?? are there any write ups on dropping the tranny pan?

[Tanto]

1) Drain the gear oil out
2) Unbolt the pan
3) Remove the 4 (or 5, can't remember) bolts holding the filter on
4) Bolt new filter in
5) Clean magnets and pan of any sediment. Put back in pan.
6) Clean RTV sealant off pan edge
7) Reapply new RTV or put new gasket on
8) Bolt pan to transmission
9) Fill with fluid

Autozone has a transmission maintenance kit for about $30 that has a new gasket and filter in it. Once you have all the bolts to the pan out, it slides to the rear of the truck and disconnects from the filler line. You'll find the majority of your time aligning the pan to the bottom of the tranny so if you have a jack or something that can hold it up for you it helps.

[MTL_4runner]

how do you know?? haha sorry i had to... when i get ready to do it ill look you guys up and see if i can find a write up on it?? are there any write ups on dropping the tranny pan?


There's a few writeups...
http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/ATF_and_Filter_Change_Procedures.pdf
http://members.cox.net/mgriese5/Level10%20Pics1.html (awesome pics if you're going to DIY)