Help on CEL p1457 with my Honda Civic

[MTL_4runner]

I started this in another thread but I hope I won't be having a conversation with myself to fix this issue (Ryan :flipoff: )

Prior Postings
Need some help with my Honda as the title says. I posted a bit in another thread but didn't want to hijack so I thought I would start a new one for my particular problem.

I am having a problem with my Honda Civic LX 2002

The problem is it keeps throwing a p1457 code at me and I have had the dealer try to fix it multiple times but they claim to have done everything according to the FSM and still have not been able to fix it. Anyone got any ideas on possible reasons for this code?

I can't find a Haynes manual for this car and don't want to pay the huge $$$ for the FSM.

I am tired of looking at the stupid CEL.

OBD code P1457 Leak in EVAP

I did find this thread on it but the dealer claims to have replaced the vent shut valve already.
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=989801

I also posted in here but got no response so far.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=748876

Seems to be a lack of real technical talent on the Hondas (too many ricers me thinks )

I really need a scan of the FSM for a 2002 Civic if anyone has that.
(obviously just the section on the EVAP and troubleshooting a p1457 code)

[MTL_4runner]

Evap Canistor might be bad, the fuel filler neck or the gas cap......

Suggest this to the dealer... It has to be throwing codes for some reason unless you are not tightening the gas cap after refueling.

I have heard of the evap canister getting overfull and causing this (I might try that if not too $$$$).
I was told a P1456 is the code you would get for a loose/bad gas cap (evidently they are seprate sensor circuits).

[MTL_4runner]

Emission parts should have a high mileage warranty.. Check your owners manual to see if it would be covered.

I am pretty sure I am still covered, but I am tired of bringing it down there and them telling me they can't find the problem. It is such a waste of time (I have tried 2 dealers and multiple trips) and I lose my car for a day each time they have a go at it and I can't stand going to pick it up and they give me some dumbass explanation like I have no idea where to put gas in the vehicle. I figured I would just find it myself and call it good....there has to be something they are missing here. Otherwise it has been a great car.

[MTL_4runner]

Well, it's been a while with this thread and believe it or not I have been driving around with my darn CEL on for over 2 years now (just the same P1457 code so I wasn't worried about damaging anything) so pretty much the entire time I have owned the car. I had finally had enough and took it to the dealer one more time to hopefully get them to fix it. I told them what the code was, and said please put your best guy on this because I am tired of looking at the idiot light. Well, go figure.......at the end of yet another day all they seem to be able to do was clear the CEL for me.....gee, thanks, seeing as MY OBD reader won't clear codes! (major sarcasm :pop: ) Oh yeah, and they charged me for that wonderful service despite the fact that I told them the code that was stored in the ECU.

Issue
Well this time I had had enough and to my surprise Haynes finally came out with a manual for these 2001 - 2004 Civics and Honda CRV's (so for those of you with a CRV in that year range, evidently this same fix would apply) so I got one right away. I didn't bother trying to fix myself previously because there was no Haynes manuals available (wasn't gonna pay $300 for a FSM) and I was also hoping to have them cover it under the Federally mandated warranty time for emissions controls, but they told me it would not be covered so I took matters into my own hands. Anyway now I finally had some good system diagrams and photos to go off of instead of all the worthless Civic "ricer" threads with a bunch of guys saying all you need to do is tighten the gas cap and the code will go away or just pay Honda to fix it.....um, yeah thanks for the advice. :laugh: So as it turns out it appears I have found the issue which I'll post below how I fixed it (photos to follow later).

Fix
*EDIT* (code returned despite this fix)
The problem seems to have been a little device in the EVAP system called the Canister Vent Shut Valve (which I have seen many acronyms for CVS, VSV, etc.....manual uses the term "VSV" and the dealer calls it a "canister valve"). This little valve is usually closed such that any vapors from the gas tank are then trapped inside the charcoal canister. Then when the engine is warmed up and during acceleration, the VSV will open and allow air pass through the charcoal canister which then removes the gas vapors which were held inside. The location of the valve is in an awful place for corrosion, underneath the vehicle just behind the gastank and just infront of the trunk pan (essentially right between the rear wheels) so it gets the full brunt of any winter weather.

This is the only diagram I found on the net for it (the VSV is #11, see attached pic). I found out later that this is actually the Honda service diagram (same one the dealer has at the parts counter)

Before getting started, if you can, I suggest you soak the screws holding the VSV to the canister with PB Blaster or other penetrant for a 3-4 days (once per day should be enough) to give you the best chance of getting those nasty screws out. To remove the VSV you need to disconnect hose #21, #23, #25 and the hose where it says "B3" (there are 2 little clips on the connector you need to squeeze to release the connector on the top of the canister inlet) which is actually the hose which collects vapors from the gastank. After removing all these, disconnect the electrical connector from the VSV (#11) and then remove the bolt holding the canister in place under the car (bolt #47, it is a 12mm) The entire assembly will tilt down and come out allowing you to work on it in a more convienent place (and believe me, if you live where they use salt/sand in winter, you'll need it) . The biggest issue with replacing the VSV is that the screws holding it to the canister get horribly rusted (the 2 phillips screws are both #50 in the pic, but only one is actually shown). When I did mine, one of the screws came out intact while the other did not (what happens is that when I tried to turn the screw head with a pair of channellocks, it will pulled the brass insert out of the plastic charcoal canister because the screw and insert had fused together). Hopefully you did soak the screws with PB Blaster or other penetrant for a while to make this easier for you (I did not, but would have in hindsight). If you are having this done at the dealer, I guarantee they will make you pay for a new charcoal canister when this happens. On mine it was a major PITA, but I drilled out the old screw by holding the insert in a vice (careful, not too tight or you'll crack it but not too loose or you'll lose all the knurling which keeps it from spinning and backing out when you screw the new VSV to it) and retapped it (it is a 5mm x 0.8 thread pitch). Then I used two part epoxy to reglue the insert back into place (don't be stupid an use crazy glue or something like that, epoxy or equivalent only!). Let it cure for at least 48 hours before you attach anything to it again. If you aren't very skilled, don't watse your time on this step and just buy a new charcoal canister from the dealer.

When you go to put on the new VSV I highly suggest you order 2 new screws for it from the dealer at the same time (the dealer "Canister Valve" (VSV) was $82.50 CDN and the screws were like 40 cents each). After replacement, I reset my OBD codes via my Auterra reader, but removing the negative battery cable will do the same thing (don't forget you'll need the radio anti-theft code when you do the neg batt terminal method). The code has yet to come back, but I will follow up with a post later if it returns.

Hope this helps someone else who gets this frustrating code too!
Post if it helped you or share your experience if you found the code to be something else (seems like a very common problem).

[MTL_4runner]

Well its been a few days now and still no CEL.
I haven't filled up yet, but I hope it's gone for good.

[MTL_4runner]

The car has demons!!!
Dang P1457 code is back again.

Can't say I am totally surprised because when I cut the old VSV open I couldn't find any clear failure modes.

I have never been beaten by a car but chasing this code is absoluetly infuriating to have a constant CEL. I will get to the bottom of this one way or another, the car will not win!

Here is another good discussion but it seems there have been mixed results of whether it got fixed or not. http://forum.mpt.org/messages/9/6923.html

This definately seems like a design problem in these EVAP systems by Honda!

This post was particularly interesting:
"I had that code. Ended up replacing EVAP cannister (by the fuel tank), bypass solenoid (on the cannister), purge valve solenoid(on the cannister) and vacuum sensor(on the cannister). Cost for all over $350. However, after I replaced all parts, I inspected the purge valve solenoid by applying 12V to it and found out that it was stuck in the open position. -- this was the reason for vacuum leak = P1457!!!. Other parts that I've replaced were operating noramlly. Another sideffect of P1457 is no vaccuum in the tank when you stop for gas. I don't think it's going to burn CPU (that's highly unlikely!) - it's just that, that is the standard stealership scare tactic."

as was this one:
"The part that he is guessing at is probably called a canister vent shut valve. This valve is part of the fuel vapor recovery proccess in the car and although it serves as no danger to the car it would be a good idea to repair the problem if you can.There is however no need to guess at it and they should be able confirm if it is bad or not.Also the part is covered by most extended warranty companies so if you have one you may want to check it out. Find out the code if you can a P1456 is almost always a loose gas cap and a P1457 is either the shut valve or a Purge control valve but we have had a few other parts go bad also.The most common being the shut valve."

and this:
"The P1457 is an evaporative emissions control failure and in civics can be several components. One issue we had was with the fit of the line that goes uptp the top of the tank. Its a small vacuum line that doesnt fit tight, when thats not the problem the next common is the two way / bypass valve assymbly. There is a few other choices but those two are the most common.."

Someone in a thread also posted that there was a TSB for replacing the Bypass valve on Civics. If anyone can help me find that (or any others for the EVAP system) for a 2001-2004 Civic I would really appreciate it.

Looks like another day of testing components this weekend.

[MTL_4runner]

Well I cleared the codes again and after driving it all day with the Auterra hooked up to it, it doesn't want to throw the code again (not even to have one pending). Very curious. When I looked at the freeze frame (captures data from sensors at the exact time the code was registered) for the code, it always seems to be right after hard acceleration and not everytime either (as evidenced by today). The fact that is seems to happen under acceleration might be the purge valve sticking randomly. I'll try testing that this weekend (hope they aren't expensive if that is the culprit).

[MTL_4runner]

I might start trying to tackle this darn CEL again, but for now I'm just going to add some more TSB numbers to the thread because I know there must be others out there seeing the same issue with this vehicle as I am. If any of you have any insight after reading this saga, lemme know. At this rate, by the time I am ready to sell the POS I might have finally gotten to the bottom of the issue. It's a beater/workhorse so I'm not going to throw money at it like I would with the 4runner.

Also if anyone has a source or an online link or want to email me the factory service manual (FSM) on this car please post it up or send it to me somehow!!!!


TSB's


TSB #02026 -- CONCERNS WITH THE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT ON WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE P1457. *TT (NHTSA ID #633622, MAY 28 2002)
TSB #02026 -- SUBJECT REGARDING MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT ON WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE P1457. *TT (NHTSA ID #633618, APRIL 16 2002)
TSB #010402 -- INFORMATION ON TESTING FOR INTERAL LEAKS WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE P1456 OR P1457. *TT (NHTSA ID #636753, APRIL 01 2002)
TSB #030802 -- INFORMATION ON VEHICLES EXHIBITING MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP ON WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE P1457, SLOW RESPONSE OF THE FUEL VENT MODULE. *TT (NHTSA ID #630799, MARCH 08 2002)


I have a feeling that the next item to replace will probably be the purge control solenoid which is up front by the engine, but I want to see if I can pull a vacuum on it before I just fork over another $100 to replace another piece of wonderful electrical emissions wizardry on this vehicle.

[MTL_4runner]

Got this first.

Just wanted to ask if you managed to fix the evap issue? I have a 99 civic and my stupid CEL has been on for over a year. My local dealer told me my car was going to blowup if I didn't fix it. So far so good. I want to sell the car, so to do so I need that CEL off. So I'm tackling the same issue this week. If you did fix your issues, please let me know. Cheers.


Then another funny guy chimed in...

The easy way.

Pull the cluster, unplug the CEL Bulb.

Lazier way:

Sit in your car, the position you normally drive in. take a piece of electrical tape. stick it too the cluster so it hides the cel light.

[MTL_4runner]

Here is how to solve the problem (for a 99 civic, DX)

The solenoid valve (Vent shut valve) is located on the charcole canister against the engine fire wall (left side, passenger side).

Remove it from the engine cavity.

Remove the valve from the canister. We had to heat up the two screws and melt the plastic a little to pull the plugs out. There was no risk of breaking the charcole canister.

Test the device: Measure the resistance of the device. Should be around 25-30 Ohmes. If it passes, then put 12Vdc on the two prongs and see if the solenoid functions. You should hear a solid "click". I blew in it and tried to see if I could resist the flow of air. It woulnd't close, so I knew it was jammed.

Using pliers, bend out the four metal tabs and start disassembling the valve. Take it right appart until you have access to the white outter coil and the inside part. Using a dremil, sand the inside of the white coil a little, allowing a little gap to move the solenoid core. REASSEMBLE.

This solved my problem 100%. Note: When filling my gas tank, before this fix, I couldn't fill at full max. Gas would fill the tub and click off. With the repair, now the gas fumes are collected into the charcole filter, and I can fill the tank at full speed.

Note: The dealer quoted 400$ to fix this problem. To repair this part, it required 1 hour of work. Totally doable by anyone mechanically inclined. Good luck!

Glad you got yours fixed from this info anyway.

I've been looking at fixing this darn CEL issue because now I have two CELs on this POS car. I still have the P1457 which seems to be the plague of any reasonably modern Honda Civic driven anywhere near where salt is used and now I have a P0132 as well (not sure if that is actually an O2 sensor issue, a dirty air filter or something totally different). The knowledge base behind these Civics is severely lacking......maybe because there are nothing but ricers on every Civic forum from here to kingdom come! Sorry, but looking at a CEL every time you get into a car you drive every day is like chinese water torture for me. Anyway, it still seems like there are 3 main causes for the P1457 and those are the Vent Shut Valve (usually works on the older 92-00 vehicles since the EVAP canister is up by the engine.......I tried a new VSV on mine, but I still get the same CEL), Bypass Valve (on the EVAP cannister on a 7th gen) and the Purge Valve (near the engine on a 7th gen). I did the VSV and now I need to do the other 2 which hopefully will take care of the issue.

Here's a pic for the Purge Solenoid Valve (it's #8 in the pic, see attached photo)

I'm going to try the Purge Valve and see if that makes a difference.

[MTL_4runner]

Well, more joy.....

I went over to the Honda dealer to see if maybe the P0132 code might be caused by a dirty air filter because I saw something online about it showing a rich condition. Well, I mentioned it to the parts guy and right away he came back with "yep, we're seeing alot of those codes too. Most likely its a cracked exhaust manifold." I said, "great, and that has the cat attached to it too doesn't it?!". He says, "yep, that beauty will run you about $750 CDN to replace". He went on to tell me that it was so common in the northeast (due to salt corrosion and the large amount of expansion and contraction on exhaust parts) that aftermarket places like Carquest have started to stock them because they do crack so often.

After he told me the exhaust manifold is the typical cause, I thought for a second and then it all started making sense. The P0132 code translates into O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1) which means the O2 sensor is seeing a higher than normal voltage. Ok, fine so what does that mean? Well, a high voltage on an O2 sensor means that the sensor is seeing a rich condition but it could be swinging either way (ie rich or lean) because the O2 sensor could be trying to compensate for air entering the exhaust stream (ie compensating for a false lean condition). I would expect to see more P0131 (lean) than P0132 (rich) with a crack like that allowing air to enter the exhaust, but I'll never rule it out until I verify what it is not. So I'll have to pull my exhaust manifold to look and see if there is indeed an issue with mine that needs replacing and if it does, I may try welding it first (depends how bad the crack is). Too bad Honda has such a horrible design where they combined it with the converter and they cost you an arm and your first born for a new one. The parts guy over at Honda said to plan on buying a new one about every 4-5 years up here......I said I'm not worried because I won't be owning this POS by then anyway. :laugh:

Hondas are great cars, but they really suck if you live in a place that has corrosive winters!
In contrast, my 4runner seems to be bulletproof with whatever I throw at it! :great:

Here's the TSB for P0131 .....
TSB #03076 -- MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP COMES ON WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE P0131 (PRIMARY HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW VOLTAGE) OR POOR ENGINE PERFORMANCE. *TT (NHTSA ID #10004797, OCTOBER 14 2003)

Just in case you think I'm making this all up.....
http://www.freewebs.com/hondacanadasucks/

The crack falls exactly where you'd expect because there's a gap in the heatshield (see the large uncovered triangle shaped area on the #3 heat shield below) right there and that lets water come up and splash directly on the very hot exhaust manifold causing stress cracks from the large temp gradient that creates (I think it's just a bit too thin walled to withstand the temp shock).

Here's the 1.7L exhaust manifold and heat shield (see attached pic)

[MTL_4runner]

Ok, another update.

I went out and removed the heat shield on the exhaust manifold to get a better look and I cleaned it all off with a wire brush. Now I didn't see any cracks right away, but I am going to pull the entire exhaust manifold and inspect it thoroughly outside of the car on my bench and in good lighting. I'm not going to pull it until I have a new heatshield, nuts, bolts, etc (all the fasteners were horribly rusted). I also replaced the air filter so I know it's not an air flow issue. For now I reset the code and I'll see if the P0132 comes back. I still might try a new primary O2 sensor too, but I'm going to leave it for now because it checked out ok on my Auterra OBD scanner (ie I saw a good sine wave from it).

I then went to work on the other P1457 code issue and hooked a vacuum guage up to the service port for the EVAP system (it's on the driver's side right near the trottle body). When I did this with the engine running I got no vacuum at all (idling, revving the motor, etc). So I pulled the purge control valve to bench test it. I tried blowing through it and no air passed (this is good, it should be closed at rest). Then I hooked it up to 12V and I could blow through it, but just barely. This may have been the issue, but it's hard to say right now. What I did was to spray a bunch of WD-40 into the opening and cycled the solenoid (using the 12V) about 100 times rapidly by brushing the leads by the contacts. Then I cycled it one last time and tried to blow through it and it seemed to work much better. Then I reinstalled it again, pulled the negative battery terminal and started the motor. I still didn't get any vacuum on the service port so I assume the solenoid only opens under certain conditions (perhaps at speed on the highway?). I need to research this more or see if I can find another Civic of similar years to see when vacuum should be seen at the port.

If anyone can help me out with this I'd be very grateful (needs to be on an 01-05 Civic with the 1.7L motor). I just need to know when vacuum happens on the service port? idle? revving motor? only on highway?

[MTL_4runner]

I looked in my Haynes manual and it stated that the motor needs to be at full operating temperature (minimum of 158F at the coolant temp sensor) and then it sounds like it only activates the purge valve under certain conditions (doesn't specify that, but it is likely highway speed). To make a long story short it sounds like I'm going to have to just drive it and see if the code returns.

I'm going to have to buy new heatshields anyway because the ones I have on there are toast from all the rust now. At this time, I'll pull the exhaust manifold and check it over thoroughly to ensure no cracks are present at all.

[MTL_4runner]

Going to pull the exhaust manifold today and see if there's any of those tell-tale cracks.
I'm gonna be some PO'd if there are!

Still no CEL, but the tank is still over 3/4 full (usually would throw a CEL when tank gets below 1/8).

Anyone that had a rusted heatshield and ripped it off because it was making noise might want to consider replacing them. Keep in mind those heatshields are the only thing keeping water off the very hot sheet metal manifold (ie keeping thermal cracks down to a minimum). I went to the dealer and got all the parts (you can see the parts needed in the pic of the exhaust manifold above......there are 3 heatshields and a bunch of 6 x 1.0 mm bolts you need to do the job) yesterday and it was only about a $100 CDN so it should be cheaper for you guys down in the US. Sure does beat $750 for a new exhaust manifold!

[MTL_4runner]

Ok, I replaced all the heatshields and it was one heck of a job to do because it seemed like every friggin bolt was rusted SOLID and they all fought me every step of the way (took me almost 5+ hrs for a job that should have taken me about 1 if everything was pretty much rust-free). I looked over the exhaust manifold and didn't see a single crack on it so luckily that wasn't an issue. You also have to be very careful with the O2 sensors because they are both sticking right off the exhaust manifold while you're working on it. One word of advice is not to try and reuse any of the exhaust gaskets......I was tempted, but decided to get some at the dealer anyway and boy I'm glad I did because I could see that there were some leaks from the old ones (the 2 exhaust gaskets ran me another $30 CDN). I had to use a thread chaser on every bolt hole and bolt I removed and a few I needed to drill and tap so a tap and die set would definately come in handy. If you have air tools that too will make the process even easier (air ratchets, grinder, cutoff tool, air hammer all were useful at some point during the operation).

All said and done the engine just purrs now at idle with no more rattling and hopefully I won't have to go buying any expensive parts later. Getting ready to do a Seafoam treatment when the tank gets below 1/3 full and see if that can help me get back to the like new gas mileage I used to get (still not bad but could be better). Still no CEL or even pending codes so hopefully that trend continues.

[MTL_4runner]

Hi There
It seem's that I have the same problem with my 00 Civic.

Concerning that point, I have the dealer troubelshooting for the P1457 problem, I have tried everything except changing the computer, and nothing solves it. In that paper, it talks about a floating system in the fuel tank that starts working when the tank is half full, maybe your problem have something to do with this.

I have a question for you guys, I have checked every valve and solenoid, and they all work, even the one on the fuel tank (the troubleshooting goes there), but I have noticed something on that part (on the fuel tank), there is a check valve mounted there, and it's not working very well. When I blow air from one side, it goes free, and on the other side, air pass, but with a very light restriction, is it normal?

By the way, I want to change this 00 Civic for the new Rav4 V6, any comments on that SUV?

Thank you

The design on your 2000 is slightly different since that was a 6th gen Civic (96-00) and mine is a 7th gen (01-05).

See pics below.......

From what I gather the VSV is still the most common failure on that system, but I don't have a 6th gen Civic like yours to verify anything against (I did also read that if one of the solenoids was shorted, even if you replace the solenoid, your ECU may have suffered damage......replacing the ECU is obviously a last resort). The check valve shouldn't allow any air to pass on one of the directions, but there are both 1-way and 2-way valves on your vehicle back by the gas tank so you need to know which you're dealing with. A sure way to verify is to just order the part and check on the new part (should only be a few $$$ anyway). What part number is it in the above pics? The P1457 codes on these Hondas are a complete joke and span multiple generations of vehicles so Honda really should be ponying up for the fix on these cars because this nonsense is totally unacceptable by anyone's standards!!! I guess that's what happens when you get Rube Goldberg designing the EVAP system.

As for the new RAV4 V6, great choice.....I was looking at them myself.
http://yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=98457

[MTL_4runner]

Well, after going through 3 tanks of gas and both hot and cold weather conditions (with not even a pending OBD code), I'm going to have to call this one fixed. Seems like the purge valve was the culpit after all (and only worked marginally well enough to fool the Honda dealer techs......it clicked when you activated the solenoid, but barely allowed any vacuum to flow and thus the ECU threw a code). Another thing to note is that I now have that familiar vacuum sound when I go to open the gas cap at the filling station. I'll definately post back if the same problem reappears again (if it does, I'm going to just buy a new purge valve......no more frigging with the old one!), but for now I'm calling it a done deal. We'll see if that dang CEL comes back now!

[MTL_4runner]

Now the CEL is back, so I'm still in the parts replacement business it looks like unless people have more ideas.

[BennyTRD]

I was doing some reading on issue your having with Code P1457. Look what I found. Sorry, its a little diserning,

“CHECK ENGINE” or “SERVICE ENGINE SOON” light on the dash:

It has come to our attention through automotive trade publications1 that some Honda vehicles are susceptible to internal corrosion of the EVAP control canister vent shut valve. This corrosion is caused be salt-laden water in Snow Belt areas finding its way into the internals of the canister vent shut valve. Honda has released an updated EVAP control canister vent shut valve to address this problem. But, as far as we know Honda does not have a recall to address this problem. Sometimes, if you wait until the “Service Engine Soon” light on your dash turns on it could be too late, because sometimes when the old valve shorts out internally, it could zap the PCM (Powertrain Control Module or car computer) in the process. Then you would need to replace the computer to solve the problem, which could be very expensive.

Some more interesting information that I found. See Honda Service Bulletin 03-001 Dtd Jan 28,2003 for " Mil comes on with DTC P1457: Evap Bypass Solenoid Valve Failure". It also tells you labor estimates on how long it should take.

http://www.mycarstats.com/auto_TSBs/HONDA_TSBs.asp

[BennyTRD]

Sounds like from what I have read it seems that by replacing the Canister shut off valve and/or bypass valve, issiues have been resolved. But you've done both of these right??

[paulo500]

Sorry to open up an old topic (thanks to google), but I too am getting the same P1457 error on my 2002 Acura 1.7EL and im wondering it you guys have fixed the problem?
I've already changed the EVAP shut valve (VSV) attached to the charcoal canister under the car, and the code hasn't gone away. (I didn't reset it with my scan tool yet as I was hoping the computer would clear it itself now that the part is fixed.). So my next step is to maybe take off the Purge Valve located at the front of the car and spray some TB cleaner or WD-40 in there to free things up as what MTL_4runner did, and see if that works. If im still not solving the CEL problem, then ill buy the other valve located beside the charcoal canister called the 2-way Bypass solenoid valve. Apparently this is one of the main problems causing this P1457 issue according to internet searching. MTL_4runner mentions this valve, but never said if he replaced it or not. I have the Honda "Service Bulletin" infront of me (08-016) "MIL Comes On With DTC P1457" and it explains how to diagnose and replace this solenoid. You can download it here...
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/acuramstr/2009-06-22_221339_vent_solenoid.pdf

Im located up in Ontario Canada so yes my car is subjected to the salted roads. I've got about 290K km's on it and the light only recently came on. Luckily the previous owner Krown rusted proofed it most of its life, so it doesn't look too bad. The screws and bolts around the EVAP system were rusted but a good shot of PB blaster really helped. Since the CEL light came on, my gas mileage has decreased quite a bit....about 150-200 km per tank!! Not sure if it pure coincidence or what. I've checked the sparkplugs and air filter...all is good...

I'll write back with updates, perhaps it will help someone else who is experiencing the same issue. Thanks to MTL_4runner for his updates in the past on this issue... Very detailed which is hard to find on the net these days. Hopefully he chimes in and gives me an update on his car. Perhaps he's already got rid of it! lol

[MTL_4runner]

paulo500, I responded to your PM but bottom line is that I did change the VSV but I never changed the purge valve, bypass valve or the EVAP canister, but my hunch is that that canister (in rear) or the bypass valve (in rear) was likely the issue so I would change those first and then change the purge valve (at motor) if the CEL doesn't stay out. I suggest to change both the EVAP canister and the bypass valve at the same time because often if the bypass malfunctioned for any period of time, it will oversaturate the EVAP cannister to the point where it becomes unusable (ie won't readily absorb fuel vapors) and sets off the CEL again.

I did use the seafoam and it helped the MPG, but did nothing for the OBD code.
Also if you have any mileage on your car, change your plugs (even the platinum plugs do wear over time).

[paulo500]

Thanks! Item 11 from your first image is the part i changed myself (VSV).
So it's been exactly one week since i changed the VSV, and i've been driving into the city every day (100km's highway commute, round trip each time). I was hoping the light would finally switch off after the CEL detected my new part and liked what it saw...but...nothing. :(
TODAY (Saturday), i was driving north to another city along the major highway(40 minute trip one way), and guess what?!...CEL switches OFF!!! I didn't think it would take this long for the system to run it's tests?...I guess so!
So for now, after knocking on every piece of wood i came across, im assuming this is fixed. I feel better knowing that i didn't have to clear the code with a scan tool, as I was hoping the car would do that after finding no fault. I filled up with gas and im hoping fuel mileage will now get better. I might be dreaming, but when i got home, the fuel needle gauge was still above the "F" mark and at about 60km on the trip-odometer....I can usually get about 100km's before the needle touched the "F" mark back when mileage was good...(a couple months ago). Since the CEL issue, i was probably getting 50km's by the time i got to "F". So im keeping my fingers crossed.

I actually picked up a set of NGK iridium plugs at Canadian Tire yesterday. (They are on sale for $16/pair this week). Supposedly better conductivity than Platinum...

Regarding the Seafoam, how did you apply it to the car? Vacuum hose? Oil? Fuel tank? I've used it on our Jetta through the vacuum hose which worked well (great youtube videos)...but i can't find the best place to do this on our civic 1.7 engines using the vacuum hose method.

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Problem #2...SRS light. This has been on for a few years. (Yes i know it means my airbag system is compromised). I know it's the driver side seat belt buckle sensor...So i've got an appointment with acura on Monday to re-diagnose and fix...for free (hopefully...wink wink)

Problem #3...A/C not working. Im really not concerned with this one right now, as its the winter and all, but i hate having things "broken" in the back of my mind. Previous owner had it scanned and its the sensor on top of the compressor... Not sure if its an easy fix as apparently i have to remove the alternator and some pulley...Hmmmm

I'll post back if i have any issues with my EVAP again. Or ill hopefully post back in a few weeks to confirm the fix. :D

[MTL_4runner]

paulo500, glad to hear your CEL went off but I can tell you that mine will switch on and off depending on being driven on the highway or city (since highway the purge valve opens and pulls a vacuum on the EVAP canister). Usually if I fill up and then drive around town the CEL will come back on again. I'm pretty sure one of those three items I mentioned above will fix it but it just hasn't been a priority lately. Yours likely took so long because your EVAP cannister was totally saturated, then after highway driving it may have come back within spec for absorbtion of fuel vapors. Hard to say but you'll be able to tell after a few more fillups though.

I hate to say this but I don't really suggest the CT irridium plugs over the stock platinums. My suggestion is to just get them at the Honda/Acura dealer to ensure best fuel economy.

I don't like to add seafoam via vacuum hose (I've seen people damage their motors this way), I prefer to add it to the gas tank and drive it clean. I usually add 1 can of seafoam to 1/4 tank of gas (or 2 cans for 1/2 tank) and drive it until empty then fill up on high test fuel after.

The other problems you mentioned I can definately help you with but you should put them into separate threads so this one stays true to the subject and doesn't have too many different conversations going on at once. Just alot cleaner and easier to read that way.

[paulo500]

I agree, i didn't want to start adding more problems to this P1457 thread. lol

I have been researching the sparkplugs for our cars, and I don't see any reason to buy the stealership sparkplugs "Denso" at $25 a pop. Supposedly they are just the double platinum. I know our honda's always like NGK's so i don't feel bad putting them in. Surprisingly the Sparkplug book at CT didn't mention NGK v-power copper plugs...just the platinum and iridiums.

Crossing my fingers with the CEL. Definitely my next purchase is the bi-pass valve (item 15 in the first image). $120 cdn...but visually easier to get at than the VSV was. You said it seemed to be fixed after you cleaned out the Purge valve at the front, so im hoping that since my CEL went out on it's own after just replacing the VSV, that my issue is fixed...We'll see.
Im really hoping this fixes my fuel mileage. I calculated that if this keeps up, im out about $500 per year on fuel costs. Thats big money!

[MTL_4runner]

Crossing my fingers with the CEL. Definitely my next purchase is the bi-pass valve (item 15 in the first image). $120 cdn...but visually easier to get at than the VSV was. You said it seemed to be fixed after you cleaned out the Purge valve at the front, so im hoping that since my CEL went out on it's own after just replacing the VSV, that my issue is fixed...We'll see.
Im really hoping this fixes my fuel mileage. I calculated that if this keeps up, im out about $500 per year on fuel costs. Thats big money!


Worst case, fixing those three items will certainly guarantee a solution. Canada is such a ripoff for parts, in the US, $150 would get you the EVAP canister, the bypass valve AND the purge valve. If you are near the border with the US, then use www.kinek.com (http://www.kinek.com) to find a US location to ship to and get your parts at http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/ alot cheaper than up north.

The NGK plugs are fine, but I hesitate to use the iridiums as I've seen some mixed results.
The OEM spark plugs are alot cheaper down there too so personally I'd add that to my order as well.

[paulo500]

Alright, well its been about 7 months since the Evap canister replacement and I have to say that the problem is fixed! Knock on wood! Been through some of the coldest winter days, and right now, hottest summer and the P1457 is history. Fuel economy did increase slightly right after replacement. Hard to gauge it because it was so frickin cold at the time. Thinking of routing my factory air intake port closer to a heat source during colder winter months as warmer air severely affect mileage.

Been getting the P0401 error (EGR insufficient flow) more and more now and i've removed the egr valve and cleaned it out as best i could. Not really too concerned as im getting best ever fuel mileage on this 310,000km engine. Perhaps ill dump some seafoam down the tank and see what happens.

The only thing is i need an emission's test soon, so the CEL cant be on. If I cant fix it, ill clear the code just as i park the car for the test.

[MTL_4runner]

Just wanted to follow up as well. I finally spent the money to replace the EVAP canister, purge valve and the bypass valve for around $170 total parts (thanks to Majestic Honda). Happy to say that I too have yet to see the P1457 code return so I'd consider this pretty much case closed. Paulo, glad to see you got yours fixed too!