Rear Diff Question

[ttora4runner]

Two weeks ago I took my 4runner in for safety and emissions testing and to have another noise checked out and to have another alignment done (alignment is still goofy at the whole lower ball joint failure, this is the 3rd one).

When doing the inspection the tech notice an odd sound coming from the rear end. The tech diagonics is that the bearing in the rear diff. is starting to go and should be replaced as a preventative maintenance measure. Quote for them to do the work and service the 4 wheel drive is $995.00 :chair:

Needless to say I haven't done this yet. My question is then how do you know that the bearing in the rear diff is starting to go? Is there a particular sound or a certain feel to it? Does that price quote seem about right for this type of work? How diffifcult is it to replace the bearing?


At the beginning of this week I've started to notice some short of slippage (at least that's how it feels, seems like its coming from the rear)) when you accelator from a start then past that it's fine. Would this be caused by a bad bearing as mentioned above?

I'm starting to get a sick of the amount of $$ I've had to spend as late on this due to problems. So any advice you all could give me would be great.

[04 Rocko Taco]

Do you have an e-locker in the rear, or is it open?

TO me, that price sounds incredibly ridiculous. But I don't pay the dealership for ANYTHING, and not a mechanic for much.

[ttora4runner]

I need to give the shop a call again and find out exactly what bearing in the rear it was since I don't remember.

These are the parts the shop quoted me.

Rear Diff Bearing Kit

Crush Sleave 41231-24010
Gasket 42181-60050
Seal 90311-38047
Nut 90179-20018
In bearing 90366-35087
Out bearing 90366-30067

This is kind of a mute point at the moment. Will up on Skyline Drive tonight my 4runner shuttering, by the time I get get to the US Bank on 500 w the shuttering gets worse and the check engine light comes on. I'm going to head to O'Riley Auto Parts in the morning to use the code scanner and see what it is (I have an idea on this already.

[Crinale]

damn dude you're having some major bad luck with your truck it sounds..

[04 Rocko Taco]

With the shuddering you are describing, if that is related to the rear end, I would say it is the carrier bearing. If it were me, (which its not) and if it's not an e-locked rear end (which I don't know) I would just look for a new (used) rear diff and swap it. Then you can either sell the other as a "needs work diff" or have the bearings replaced and sell it as good. You will come out MUCH cheaper.

[Obi..]

The fact they want to use a crush sleeve instead of the stronger option and list all the additional parts makes me suspicious. It takes a crap load of abuse to destroy bearings on a 3rd.

Two options here,

One go out for a drive and warm things up. Then pop a magnet on the drain plug and wait for things to cool. Open your fill plug and then loosen the drain plug, putting the fill plug at the bottom to stop everything from pouring out and look for ferrous metal bits.

Two, using a stronger magnet and a wire coathanger do the same as above as far as pulling the fill plug. Attach the magnet to the coathanger wire and fish it down into the diff until you touch bottom, wiggle it around and see what comes out atached.

[Robinhood4x4]

Rocko, has a good point if it turns out you do need a new diff. Get a used one and swap it in.

A quick glance a Marlin shows a new open diff at $800, but a junkyard one can be had for much, much cheaper.

[corax]

Two options here,

One go out for a drive and warm things up. Then pop a magnet on the drain plug and wait for things to cool. Open your fill plug and then loosen the drain plug, putting the fill plug at the bottom to stop everything from pouring out and look for ferrous metal bits.

Two, using a stronger magnet and a wire coathanger do the same as above as far as pulling the fill plug. Attach the magnet to the coathanger wire and fish it down into the diff until you touch bottom, wiggle it around and see what comes out atached.




If you're gonna stick a magnet on a coat hanger, be careful that it doesn't decide to attach itself to the gears and stay there :eek: & the drain plug already should have a magnet on it. If you suspect damage, strain the gear juice through a paint filter and look for solid bits (HF has these for <$10 for a 50 pack or check your local hardware store)
http://www.bombayharbor.com/productImage/0432470001273048121/Paper_Cone_Paint_Strainers.jpg

the metal "mush" you find on the drain magnet is nothing, look for bits that you can feel between your fingers

[CJM]

Coffee filters work too.

[ttora4runner]

Thanks for the replies all. I plan on drianing the rear diff and filtering it this week while my brother is in town. I have elocked diff.

On the hesitation/shutter problem that I still have after new plugs and wires went in. I'm looking at the coils or injectors as a possible problem. Would a bad fuel filter (clogged) cause this problem as well. I've been debating on changing it even though Toyota says its a lifetime item.

[ttora4runner]

damn dude you're having some major bad luck with your truck it sounds..


Ya, no kidding in the last year my credit card debit went from about 300 to close to 4800 on this thing. It's been one thng after another. My 96 didn't have this many problems.

[BruceTS]

It's very rare for a bearing to go out in a diff, the gears are usually the first to go. However with an E-locker the bolts to the carrier can come loose and make some funky sounds. The first thing to do is drain the oil and inspect for excessive metal debri. If the old is dark grey, then there is definately problems. If the oil is still amber in color, then you may be just fine. There's no way to determine the problem until it is torn down...hehe you can say I'm a bit of an expert on e-locker breakage, I've gone thru a few already and have 4 pumpkins in my garage. One had the carrier bolts come loose, 2 others from a friends that had a spider gear break, another that the spider gear wore the housing out due to a bent axle housing and another that I broke my 4.88 gear set.

If your at all mechanically inclined, I'd pull the pumpkin and if it has a problem, just bring that to the shop for repair and not the stealership or buy a used one from a junkyard.

Other issues that can occur is the ring that you adjust the bearing end play could have came loose, but from the list of parts mentioned, the tech is saying that the pinion gear bearings have a problem. This can easily be checked, simply by grabbing the driveshaft at the diff end and try moving it in and out, then side to side....there should be next to no play at all. I've never seen these bearing go out first, unless the seal was leaking and the oil ran out, then they usually freeze up. If those bearings are in fact bad, then most likely there are more internal issues as well and all the bearing would need replacement.

[ttora4runner]

Changed out the diff fluid and didn't notice any metal shavings in it but I did notice that there as a building up of some sort on the drain plug and just inside.

Is that normal? Fluid was still an amber color but it was on the darker side.

[4x4mike]

It might be fine metal shavings. I guess those would be better than chunks of metal. Were you able to peek up in the drain hole? If so how did things look? If it's still drained I'd jack up the rear, put it in neutral and turns the wheels or drive shaft. Doing this you might be able to see the ring gear and hear anything amiss. Of course block the wheels, use jack stands, etc.

[Robinhood4x4]

Did the buildup look like a black sludge? That's ok, that's just the fine metal particles that comes from normal wear.

[BruceTS]

sound about normal, the magnetic plug will always have some sludge on it, oil being amber in color means I doubt there is anything major wrong.

[ttora4runner]

Ya, for now I'm going to leave it alone. I haven't heard any wierd sounds, leaks or anything strange.

I have other problems that I need to focus on now.