Overhead console

[corax]

I've been thinking about this project for a little while now. I just don't have anywhere to mount my Yaesu FT2800 2M Ham and I don't use 70cm enough to justify buying a new radio with a remote mount head (yet ;)), so I need to build something. A few months ago I found this console on Dept of the Interior (http://www.consoles.com.au/) and that got the gears turning (BTW, their application list is HUGE - don't know if they export though)
http://www.consoles.com.au/Images/Roof/Forerunner%20_low_2.jpg

This is my starting point, wall shelf track cut and tacked to the profile of my headliner (excuse the poor stitch job on the panoramic). It's a structural shape and will be fine supporting the minimal loads I plan to use it for.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4821.jpg

The front mount is getting sandwiched between the rear view and the roof. The rear is where I had a problem. Pulling the interior light out and feeling around, I realized there is a metal channel at the back of the roof nearly 2.5" wide. This would suffice with the help of some RivNuts. So I measured and drilled holes . . .
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4818.jpg

. . . before popping in a few 1/4" RivNuts. The ones I got from the local Grainger are Stainless and were a lot harder to put in place than the cheapie aluminum ones - I have no doubt they will not pull out of the sheet metal
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4822.jpg

When I get a bit of time at work this week I'll cut up the front and rear brackets and tack both shelf tracks to the brackets. That'll give me the frame work to mount everything else from. I may end up not upholstering it for awhile, but at least I'll have my radio mounted. BTW, for cheap 2" wide x 1/8" thick (12ga) flat stock, check out the lumber tie straps at the big box home improvement stores - I got this 36" piece for less than $10
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4825.jpg

[Ric]

nice project, I also thought about this years ago, never followed through, cant wait to watch your progress :thumbup:

[Obi..]

IMHO just for the sake of it run a piece of upholstery foam in the shape of the structure you want and go wheeling.

This serves two purposes. First, it tells you whether or not you're ever likely to smack your noggin on it at some point. Second, it lets you play with the shape and then can become a possible mold for a fiberglass shell. ;)

~Reason I suggest that is I will never own another rig with either an overhaed console or a low hanging sunroof shell (ie:4th-5th gen Runners I smack my head on the interior framework).

[4x4mike]

I like you projects Corax, it'll be cool to see what you come up with. I've got my 2800 in the DIN spot below my stereo and it's fine there. I'm not a fan of bolting crap to the transmission tunnel so the ceiling is a good spot. Even at high power my radio has never gotten very hot and never too hot to run. Having it up high will eliminate the need for an aux speaker.

[corax]

. . . just for the sake of it run a piece of upholstery foam in the shape of the structure you want and go wheeling.

This serves two purposes. First, it tells you whether or not you're ever likely to smack your noggin on it at some point. Second, it lets you play with the shape and then can become a possible mold for a fiberglass shell.

My Celica seats sit lower than the originals, so my noggin' is far from it. I'm going to start mounting things to the frame and let that determine its final shape (form follows function). Worst case scenario, I hate it and sell it on YT ;)



Even at high power my radio has never gotten very hot and never too hot to run. Having it up high will eliminate the need for an aux speaker.

The FT2800 is just a mil-spec heat sink that happens to have a radio attached - I've never even felt it get warm yet. My eventual plan is to upgrade to an FT8900 or FT8800 which is slightly smaller and should fit the frame I'm building now - not sure if I want to build a solid side to the frame for this reason, though I do want to run another piece of track from front to back to stiffen it a bit more.

I got it bolted up, but far from finished, today.
Front sandwiched between the rearview and the roof:
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4827.jpg

Rear needs some slight "fine-tuning" to get the rest of the bolts in + I'm going to run 2 scraps of channel back onto the plate for reinforcement:
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4828.jpg

Overall, for now:
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4829.jpg

[corax]

I got the radio brackets made and welded on today. Amazingly enough, all the holes were in the correct spots and the radio bolted right up after it was tacked onto the frame (out of vehicle, NOT using my radio as a jig while welding). My head is still fairly far away from the radio, I would really have to try to smack my head against it. In an accident, as long as the seat belt locks like it should, I'll have plenty of room.

I also drilled a bunch of other holes in the mounting bracket to adjust the angle of the radio. I plan on getting thumb screw type bolts so I just have to remove one from each side and move the radio to the angle I want - probably face it down a bit more if I'm expecting more use.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4832.jpg

For the trim so far I'm thinking of leaving the side of the radio completely exposed so I can get to the adjustment - just running an acute triangle from the very front of the frame to the above the radio face.

I'm also not sure what else I want to mount up there, so suggestions are welcome. Probably a small "project box" with my lightbar switches. I'm thinking 2 low amp 12V power outlets piggybacked off the radio power circuit would be useful. I'd also like some map lights that I can aim (preferably something I can find at the Pick N Pull for cheap), maybe something like this
http://www.mecatruckchrome.com/prodimg/CCI3336.JPG

or this from the older Fords
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/2-3l-talk/55257d1226600361-map-light-rarity-question-maplightfront.jpg

[Ric]

Coming along great..


I'm also not sure what else I want to mount up there, so suggestions are welcome.

Rocker panel: http://www.12voltguy.com/product.php?productid=17551&cat=256&page=1

or a gun or rifle holster/holder ?
http://www.mackspw.com/ItemImages/Large/p6817C.jpg
http://www.mackspw.com/Item--i-BSKYBSR2

just some ideas :D

[Obi..]

^Ric's right, you are in Oregon and Washington's right there. You know you wanna fit in w/ all the locals? ;)

[corax]

Interesting you mention the gun part, I'll have to check tomorrow, but my Glock just might fit in the nook above the radio. As far as the carling switches go . . . they look neat, but so far I'm only into this project about $10. I think I might just make my own panel like I did with the rear shell (http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=4256.msg95492#msg95492)

Someone else mentioned a bungee mesh net threaded between screw eyes to hold light weight things (gloves, papers, etc) that I may incorporate into the dead space between the functional parts.

[corax]

I found a bit more inspiration on which direction I might take next, but I can't find any info on the company that built these. I kinda dig the fold-down compartment in the last pic.

http://www.cruiserheadstore.com/cruiserheads/products_pictures/tec4x4_lightraveller_big.jpg

http://www.cruiserheadstore.com/carro/products_pictures/tec4x4_extreme_big.jpg

http://www.cruiserheadstore.com/carro/products_pictures/tec4x4_big.jpg

[corax]

The frame is done, so the next step is to bridge the spaces with MDF and then fiberglass over it all. The big flat bits on the left are the radio mounts the short diagonal parts near there are the switch panel mounts. The trapezoid thing on the right is for light/soft/small object storage - it's getting MDF on the front, rear, and bottom with a bungee mesh on both sides.

When it's upside down, it kinda looks like a big remote control car or mini rat-rod frame
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4835.jpg

[Seanz0rz]

looks awesome keith!

ive always thought about putting a net over the sunroof cover to store stuff like maps, hats, and other lightweight stuff.

[corax]

Using 1/8" MDF, I "sewed" panels onto the frame. Screws would have shown through the 'glass and I figured nylon thread will soak up the resin and not show on the final product. Since the switch panel comes right to the top of the radio face, I decided not to have the power outlets (for plug in gooseneck map lights, etc) in the panel itself - anything I plugged in would get in the way of the 2M radio. So I welded on 2 more small panels to side mount the power outlets.

I still need to drill the holes for the shock cord mesh that will keep things in the small storage area and make a hole to recess my remote CB speaker, but otherwise I think it's finally ready for 'glass. From the switch panel forward (to the left in the pic) will probably just stay as painted metal while the rest will get covered in 'glass cloth - maybe just 3-4 layers and following the contour of the frame to give me recessed areas for future mounting options

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_48381.jpg

[DHC6twinotter]

Wow...looks great keith!

[Ric]

looking great so far

[corax]

Well, the fiberglass part isn't going nearly as well as I had hoped. The biggest issue seems to be that the fiberglass cloth doesn't like making 90 degree bends around the frame, so it arcs up and creates big air pockets that I can't get to stick back down. Most of what I did today is probably going to get cut & sanded off.

Because of this I'm thinking of taking a different approach. I should still be able to use the cloth across the flat sections of MDF, I just can't wrap it around the frame to encase everything like I had hoped. What if I just used body filler to fill the gaps, fill in the metal frame holes and then brushed a layer of fiberglass resin over it all without using the cloth? Would it just crack and fall apart in a few months or does that sound like a feasible alternative? Maybe I should just use smaller strips of cloth instead of trying to wrap one big piece?

[Seanz0rz]

so you are taking fiberglass cloth and wrapping it around? how about using fleece? or tie the cloth very tight around the frame, then brushing resin on.

[CJM]

Fleece probably will work better.

[corax]

I think my problem was that I was trying to use pieces of cloth that were too big - if you've ever played with fiberglass cloth you know how easily small piece fray and come apart. That, and years ago I got some sage advice from a trusted body guy, "At some point you gotta stop *%&#ing with it or you'll just make it worse." So I used a razor to cut off the parts that didn't stick to the frame and laid down strips of cloth over the bare parts. The cloth and resin stuck to the MDF boards just fine. It still wasn't adhering to the metal quite how I wanted, so I put a piece of tissue over the cloth and set a piece of wood on top to hold it down. The tissue will soak up some of the resin, but should be easy enough to tear or lightly sand off once dry. A friend also told me that doing this outside (~50 degrees, no work shop) probably didn't help much.

I'm anxious to get my 2M radio mounted again, so I'll start laying on a few more layers during lunch at work and hopefully get this done by the weekend.

[corax]

I got the frame all covered and somewhat finished - I'm going to live with it for a few weeks before I string up the shock cord. This isn't going to be the final color - it's just some cheap paint I threw on to see how wavy the fiberglass really is - final color is going to be a flat or matte grey like my dash. If I had it to do over, it would be much easier to fiberglass, and the results would be prettier, with mdf on both sides of the metal frame.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4840.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4841.jpg

[corax]

So here's "good enough for now" - eventually I'll drill the holes to zig zag some shock cord across the small storage area. The plate above my Yaesu still needs to be drilled for the lightbar switches, and you can see the power outlets that I might use for goose-neck map lights on either side. The whole mess is far enough away that I'm not worried about inadvertently hitting my head on it.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4843.jpg
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4848.jpg

I also have this in mind to keep the mic cord from swinging around. I already tested it out just haven't mounted it, when I pull on the mic the cord falls right out of the holder. If you need to know where I got this little plastic gem . . . it's a piece that has to be removed from an ES300 window regulator before install (holds a wire spool in place).
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4850.jpg

[Ric]

:clap: :thumbup:

[4x4mike]

If you wanted the mic lower you could run a phone cord from the radio down a pillar and to the dash, console or seat. I have a cord in my glove box for extending the mic out of the cab. I also have an extension cord for my external speaker so it can take it out of the cab. It's the setup I use if I'm working an event and use the 4runner as base. Anything further I use the HT.

[slosurfer]

Nice! :thumbup:

[corax]

finished and mounted the switch plate. The red LED toggle powers the light bar switches - that way I have some kind of visual letting me know I may have flashing lights on my roof. The 2 top toggles are the white take-down and alley lights. Yellow cap is the amber rotators, red is amber/red front and rear flashers and the green cap is for the stage closing green rotators.

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_4855.jpg

now I'm thinking about fabbing a new light bar mount so I can use the Yak towers with false gutters on the back and ditch my bolt on cargo rails . . . it never ends, does it?

[corax]

I got a smoking deal on a new in the box Yaesu FT8800 last week and found that, while it can be adapted to fit, it doesn't look right in my current console. Plus, I'd rather have the remote mount head further forward where it's easier to see at a quick glance.
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_5002.jpg

So I started on another overhead console. I think I'm going to mount the radio sideways at the front, but I'm not sure about where the switch panel is going to go at this point. I believe the build should go a lot quicker and hopefully the fiberglass will come out a bit better with what I learned from the first build. I got the basic frame put together in just an hour or two this weekend
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_5005.jpg



If anyone is looking for an overhead console for a 1st gen 4runner or 86-89 pickup, I'll be selling the original one in a few weeks (minus the switch panel, power outlets and radio)

[4x4mike]

Any plans for the 2800?

[corax]

Any plans for the 2800?


I currently put it back in one of my water/air tight military boxes along with a mag mount antenna and 8 foot alligator clip power lead so I can use it as a quick set up spare radio or loan it out if needed. I don't see much point in selling it since the 2800's are only going for about $100-$125 used. If you're interested in picking one up check the eham.net or qrz.com classifieds - it's only 2M/VHF but they've been described as a mil-spec heat sink with a radio attached and are somewhat known as being reliable and durable with about 65W of transmit power

[4x4mike]

Oh yeah I know. I've got a 2800 that was had for cheap brand new. I asked because I could use a second. If not for another vehicle it would be for a base or mobile base I could set up for events.

[Seanz0rz]

Over two years old, I know. What became of this project?

[corax]

Well, I never did build a second overhead console but I still have the frame, so maybe eventually - I actually haven't done much to the 4runner over the last year or so except basic maintenance.
I used a retractable key ring from Home Depot for the mic, installed a cheap <$5 surface mount voltage gauge, some bungee cord, and remote mounted the Yaesu faceplate towards the front.

View from the driver seat, the faceplate is much more visible and easier to check while driving
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_5819_zps3f2d9e7a.jpg

back half from the passenger side showing the bungee cord criss-crossed to hold stuff and my safety vest from when I was more active in SAR, also the remote speaker in the top
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_5820_zps71eeb230.jpg

some PPE gloves on the back side just in case I need them during Rally weekends (haven't rolled up on any bloody scenes yet, but it does happen occassionally)
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk171/batardsalamano/overhead%20console/100_5822_zps4aacfa19.jpg

Yeah, it could be a bit cleaner, but for right now it works fine.
I've started to think about a new roof rack over the fiberglass top supported by 2"x1" legs down to the steel bodywork, but I think that might wait until spring

[Seanz0rz]

Thanks for the update! I'm still doing research for my new one.

[Kryptoroxx]

Sean I have a bunch of that 1/2" square tube laying around from the demolition to make the shelf if you're interested.

This is a pretty cool overhead imo. Not sure I would do it before the runner goes to 4 single seats (a very long ways away right now lol)

[Seanz0rz]

Might be interested. How thick is it?

(if you included a pic with your last post, it doesn't show)

[Kryptoroxx]

It's thin wall stuff. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/30/8fe700b64663c17db161ad8d92e34ea8.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/30/154196856088f8244bb2b3a9518f5c66.jpg

not in bad condition but I don't have a use for it currently. Seems like it would be overkill for the frame....but you will not dent it with your head either lol.

[Kryptoroxx]

Sorry thin wall wasn't very descriptive lol. I pulled out a gadget that has proven worth more than what I paid.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/30/824081745a6c50aafbabef495c1e264e.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/30/67ef5c200616f14552c897e257a18697.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/30/4b36d7c410f12806ee4e936c7aec99af.jpg

The second image is 1x1" and I might have a use for that with the shelf.....but everything is on hold till I get my hands on a super powered amplifier lol. Still have to find a great place for scrap though so I can practice a bit. Can't seem to catch metal shops when they're open with work.

[Seanz0rz]

16ga 1/2" square tube? hell yes! Hold on to it until I see you (hopefully not more than a couple of months). It will be useful.

[Kryptoroxx]

16ga 1/2" square tube? hell yes! Hold on to it until I see you (hopefully not more than a couple of months). It will be useful.

I can see what I can do about laying my hands on a little more. Those things get tossed after being destroyed and nobody seems to mind that I dispose of them lol.

[Seanz0rz]

I'll have a bit after I chop up my old center console. I won't need too much, just enough to make a frame.

[Kryptoroxx]

I'm not worried about it. I just figure I will need scrap to practice on before I go for welding together a top rack without tweaking it.

[Seanz0rz]

16Ga is good to practice on. Easy as hell to burn thru or have a cold joint so it really teaches you good heat control.

[Kryptoroxx]

16Ga is good to practice on. Easy as hell to burn thru or have a cold joint so it really teaches you good heat control.
Yeah I've only welded on 1/8 and .120 wall stuff so I'm sure I am welding too hot for .060. YouTube and a book will go a long ways as well as a couple buddies I have locally.

[Seanz0rz]

Www.weldingtipsandtricks.com

[Kryptoroxx]

Www.weldingtipsandtricks.com (http://Www.weldingtipsandtricks.com)

Shoot they even use my welder!! Great link man. I just had time to look at it.

Correction. They use the welder I wish I could get lol.