Overhead Switch Console

[Seanz0rz]

After nearly 6 years of being frustrated by the uselessness of the overhead console in my 98 4Runner, I have decided to do something about it.

Here is the start:
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae38/hamiltonfabrication/Switch%20Panel/IMG_3869.jpg

A few hours in solidworks massaging the design to my liking. The one above is not set in stone. I think I will make a mockup out of cardboard and put it in the truck to see how I like it.

This is a long term project. I hope to have it finished by April, just something to work on in my free time.

Plan is to use small gauge wire (22 or 24AWG) from the roof to a relay block located elsewhere.

Stay tuned!

[4x4mike]

Dang dude, that's a lot of switches. Are you bagging the 4Runner?

I've got a lot of switches and they are mounted here and there. Having them in one place should be nice.

[Seanz0rz]

top corners are map lights, but im thinking of leaving that console alone. then there are sunroof controls, fog, driving lights, front and rear strobe lights, then an offroad master switch that limits the rack front, rear, left and right, as well as rr diff lock and winch controls.

[4x4mike]

You've got left and rear lights on the rack now? I guess it's been awhile since I've seen it. I have added 8 switches to my 4runner and 2 of those are factory switches. Most are visible but don't look too much out of sorts.

[Seanz0rz]

not yet. planning for the future. waiting for the summer to build some killer led lights for sides and rear.

[Erich_870]

Very cool! Can't wait to see your progress.

Erich

[Seanz0rz]

final layout:
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae38/hamiltonfabrication/Switch%20Panel/switchpanel.jpg

the words still need some adjusting for position relative to the holes, but this is what it will look like.

[YotaFun]

looks awesome!

[Erich_870]

Are you going to have the words engraved?

Erich

[corax]

Are you planning to use the 3D printer for this? A multi-tier panel would be pretty sweet . . .

[Erich_870]

What are the tilt and slide switches for?

Erich

[4x4mike]

Tilt and slide? Are side thrusters part of your project?

[Seanz0rz]

keith, i might try to print it. its at the larger limits of my print area. also, my PLA gets soft at 140-150, temps the inside of my 4runner often reaches in the summer time. if i printed it, id want to print it in ABS, which would require some additional parts for my printer.

tilt and slide are for the sunroof. i am replacing the console with those two switches.

if i do not print it, i might engrave the letters and paint them a contrasting color. i also am playing with the idea of sandwiching a layer of lexan, a printed sheet, and another material (metal or plastic). the switches will not be lighted, but pretty idiot proof and laid out in a logical manner. switches will be off when pushed away, on when pulled towards (except for winch, and sunroof controls, which are off in the middle, and open forward, close towards)

[corax]

i also am playing with the idea of sandwiching a layer of lexan, a printed sheet, and another material (metal or plastic). the switches will not be lighted . . .


another option that might not even work but I've had rolling around in my head for awhile would be to engrave the lexan and use a dark material behind it. now light up the side of the lexan with an LED or two - in theory (or at least in my mind), being lit from the side you won't see any of the light except where it leaks through at the engraving, creating illuminated lettering. Kind of like how people were making "angel eyes" (http://www.freecarkits.com/angeleyes.htm) a few years back with bent clear plastic and the light only escaped where they made cuts in the plastic
http://www.freecarkits.com/angel23.JPG

[Seanz0rz]

RepRap - Seanz0rz (http://www.ustream.tv/channel/reprap---seanz0rz#)

should be going for a while. check it out!

[Erich_870]

another option that might not even work but I've had rolling around in my head for awhile would be to engrave the lexan and use a dark material behind it. now light up the side of the lexan with an LED or two - in theory (or at least in my mind), being lit from the side you won't see any of the light except where it leaks through at the engraving, creating illuminated lettering. Kind of like how people were making "angel eyes" (http://www.freecarkits.com/angeleyes.htm) a few years back with bent clear plastic and the light only escaped where they made cuts in the plastic
http://www.freecarkits.com/angel23.JPG


I was looking to do something like that back in college. My wife (GF at the time) had a Jeep Grand Cherokee that had a little display with the outline of the jeep down by the shifter that lit up the front and back axel when it was in 4 wheel drive. I was going to make a Plexiglas panel with the shape of my 1st gen engraved into it and illuminate it from the side then have micro switches for all the aftermarket stuff like lights, winch, etc.

Any more progress Sean?

Erich

[Seanz0rz]

a little bit, ill post some pictures when i have some more free time. basically the 3d print method is unlikely to succeed as i want it to, but it did teach me alot. i will probably do a sandwich of plastic, printed paper labels, and plexi. not perfect but ok. ill play more with it later, but i got finals next week.

[corax]

. . . not perfect but ok. ill play more with it later, but i got finals next week.


pretty much my motto. everything's functional but looks better with a little bit of distance.

[Seanz0rz]

RepRap - Seanz0rz (http://www.ustream.tv/channel/reprap---seanz0rz#)

printing again. adjusted some of the carve settings to see if i can get better resolution on the letters. i think a final coat of body filler and black paint would go a long way on making this real nice. worth a try on an otherwise boring sunday spent studying for finals.

[Seanz0rz]

3.5 months later, I've made progress!

I ditched the idea of printing what I wanted, it was just too difficult to get the lettering done correctly with the printer. the resolution just isn't up there yet.

I ended up deciding to do the sandwich method. Basically a clear acrylic sheet, and a black ABS sheet sandwiching a high quality printout of my switch panel.

I printed a template, to scale, and set that on my 2 plastic sheets, cutting out the necessary shape:
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae38/hamiltonfabrication/Switch%20Panel/IMAG0293.jpg

once that was accomplished, I used a spring punch to punch starter divots in the black ABS:
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae38/hamiltonfabrication/Switch%20Panel/IMAG0292.jpg
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae38/hamiltonfabrication/Switch%20Panel/IMAG0294.jpg

From there, I drilled pilot holes through the two sheets while they were clamped together. Using a step bit, I drilled the ABS holes to 5/16", and the acrylic holes to 1/4".

I printed the actual layout and labels using photo paper. I went ahead and did a tan color on the background, hoping it would make it look more a part of the vehicle. The color turned out OK, I will have to test it out in the vehicle later. The hardest part was cutting out the 15 holes for the switches in the photo paper.

After a good wipe down, the whole assembly was put together. Here's how it came out, I am rather pleased with how it looks!

http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae38/hamiltonfabrication/Switch%20Panel/IMAG0297.jpg
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae38/hamiltonfabrication/Switch%20Panel/IMAG0298.jpg
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae38/hamiltonfabrication/Switch%20Panel/IMAG0296.jpg

Next: pre-wire the back of the board, and build a mounting system for it. stay tuned!

[YotaFun]

I really look forward to seeing this done!
I am really reconsidering the way the 4Runner is wired up!

[paddlenbike]

Looks great Sean!

[Seanz0rz]

http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae38/hamiltonfabrication/Switch%20Panel/IMG_3970.jpg
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae38/hamiltonfabrication/Switch%20Panel/IMG_3971.jpg

'finished' up the sides. Normally I'd take a lot of time and finish it up real nice. however, i need switches and after some paint, this should look just fine! it will get some sanding first to even it out a bit.

for future reference:


98 4Runner sunroof controls:

Black - Common
Brown - Tilt down
blue - Tilt up
Green - Slide close
Red - Slide open

[Seanz0rz]

I have a question for you guys

should I use 24 gauge CAT 5E (i have ALOT of this sitting around) or go up to 22 gauge? on these circuits, all i will be operating is a relay (~80mA). anything that is operating more than that will be sized appropriately.

[corax]

You should be fine with the 24ga, my light bar switches use CAT 5 for the relays and I had no problems at all

[DHC6twinotter]

Looks great Sean!

I've seen a few other guys use CAT 5 for their switch panels, and I like that solution.

[Seanz0rz]

Thanks Dan!

Aside from the Sunroof controls, and the strobe switches, everything will be in cat 5 down to the relays. I have part of it wired up, and I'll work on the rest later. hoping to install into the truck maybe tomorrow or tuesday, but I have to remove all the interior to fix another issue later in the week, so I might wait until then.

[Seanz0rz]

Old pics are broken, I will fix them someday.

By popular demand, here is my winch control explained:

Since I used small switches and ran small wire, I knew I was going to have to use a relay to control the winch. I went ahead and tested, and found a max load of 1.5A, which is a bit above the recommended .5A/24awg wire. Also, if for some reason something fails, it is easy to fix for me.

As a refresher, here is the switch panel. The winch control switch is a momentary on-off-on, and must have the off-road master switch engaged to work.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5328/9552384830_3e559ce17a_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9552384830/)

Here is my schematic:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3706/9552383498_fbff81e972_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9552383498/)

From the left:
Switch common is ground. When you activate "OUT" for example, it completes the ground for the relay.
CAT5e runs down the passenger A pillar. 2 pairs are for the E-Locker control, and 2 are for winch control. The brown pair (OUT) terminates at pin 85 of my OUT relay. Pin 86 is connected to the 12V lead on the solenoid for the winch. Pin 30 is connected to the common of the winch controller plug of the Smittybilt winch (Black on the plug, Grey in my wiring). Pin 87 goes to the winch out (red on the plug, brown in my wire). The IN relay is wired much the same way, with the exception of it connecting to IN on the switch and IN on the winch plug.

Relays:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3787/9552384208_cd3443724a_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9552384208/)

The only thing I am missing is a ring terminal for the 12V+ from the winch to power the relays. I have one somewhere, but will probably just go buy some tomorrow morning. Once it is all wired, exposed wires will get the splitloom treatment, and the connectors at the relay will be sealed for moisture.


A much simpler way to do this is to simply extend the wires from the controller plug into the cab and use a larger capacity switch to handle it. The solenoid should only draw 1 or so amps, and 18 AWG should be plenty to handle that. For as easy as this is, I am shocked more people don't do it. Even more appalling is why I waited so long to get this done!

[troyboy162]

thats friggen awesome sean! I am jealous!

[Seanz0rz]

Thanks!

If you want one, I will make you one. It will be much prettier than mine turned out (i just care that it works in my truck).

[troyboy162]

dang I will keep that in mind!

[4x4mike]

Switch common is ground. When you activate "OUT" for example, it completes the ground for the relay.
CAT5e runs down the passenger A pillar. 2 pairs are for the E-Locker control, and 2 are for winch control. The brown pair (OUT) terminates at pin 85 of my OUT relay. Pin 86 is connected to the 12V lead on the solenoid for the winch. Pin 30 is connected to the common of the winch controller plug of the Smittybilt winch (Black on the plug, Grey in my wiring). Pin 87 goes to the winch out (red on the plug, brown in my wire). The IN relay is wired much the same way, with the exception of it connecting to IN on the switch and IN on the winch plug.

Relays:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3787/9552384208_cd3443724a_c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/98550067@N07/9552384208/)



When you say 2 pairs are for the e locker and the winch are you talking about doubled up wires? Like is shown in the pic? Is this because of the >0.5A? The smaller wire has to make it so much easier to get wire up and down a pillar and under the headliner.

Good job, looks great and functional.

[Seanz0rz]

Yes, I used the pairs for more current carrying ability and some redundancy. The cat 5 is perfect. 4 or 8 conductors in a jacket. Not to mention the ability to have modular plugs. Max I'm running through them is 80mA for the relay coil.

FYI. Cat5 has 4 twisted pairs. Orange, blue, green, and brown pairs with one each solid color twisted with one with a white stripe.

[Seanz0rz]

Back in November, during a rain (which turned out to be a rare thing this winter), I heard my car alarm going off. I went out and found my winch running in the "out" direction. I popped the hood and disconnected the lead from the positive.

My relays had fallen down and allowed water to wick from the bumper, down the loom from the hand control connector, and into the relays. It shorted out the "out" relay and ran the winch until it started sucking line back in and popped the clutch lever out. No damage to the winch, and when the relay dried out, it worked fine.

Fast forward to a few days ago, I was pulling some bushes out of the front yard, and I had no more "out" control in the cab. Relay is dead, so I had to replace that, which I did today.


In other news, since the new roof rack, with all the fancy lights, all but 2 of my switches are being used now. The other 2 were spare auxiliary switches from the get-go, so I am sure I will find use for them some day, maybe for some more interior lights.

[paddlenbike]

Good thing it was the out relay and not the in; that could have been ugly!

[Seanz0rz]

I think it would have just stalled the winch and drained the battery super fast. Either way it was bad!

[4x4mike]

Hopefully no fire with the stalling. Do you have a master power switch for the winch? I had one on my MileMarker to keep it from being operated without me knowing.

[Seanz0rz]

No, I don't. For the most part, I keep it disconnected from the battery unless I am using it or on a trip where I might need it (like Mojave). I have the wing nut military style battery terminals, so pulling something off is no big deal to me. When I do my next big rewire on the front end, I will be adding a disconnect switch, along with a second battery and cleaning up my admittedly hacked wiring up front.