*Toyota ECT Relocation Mod, or “ECT R-M”
By: NorCalBorn

The point of this modification is to relocate the ECT switch on vehicles equipped
with the A340 series of transmissions.

Note: This was performed on a 2wd, 1995 4Runner.

*Additionally, it is also applicable to all Toyota vehicles,
including the TRD packaged vehicles.

*In other words, this will also work on any Automatic/ECT equipped Toyota vehicle,
including their car lines, as long as there’s the ECT switch.

*For TRD vehicles with the switch on the L/H
dashboard, some additional wiring work will need to
be performed, such as soldering/etc. to lengthen the loom.
IIRC, we needed 7’(each) of all 4 color wires, plus the
soldering equipment, and shrink tubing.

*If you lengthen the wiring, carefully spirial wind
the 4 wires, and tape them wherever they will rub
and every 6 or so inches.
~This will allow the extended loom to flex safely
without any stretching, tearing, or general fatigue to occur.

*If you’re unsure of the last bit, ask an airline mechanic,
trust me, they’ll understand/know.

*A reminder, consult your owner’s manual on the proper use of the ECT.

*This mod does not replace or substitute any of the
protocols about how to operate the ECT in your Toyota.

Do not attempt to overdo things with the newfound access to the power curve.

I have found that if I ignored the rules,
and climbed a local mountain pass at speed in my 1995 4Runner,
the transmission will get really warm, and possibly cause fluid to leak from the front seal.
This happens because the ECT bypasses the lockup capabilities of the converter.

*That part in the owner’s manual about not using the ECT under heavy load,
or climbing is to be heeded.

Basically, it allows the driver a more accessible interface with the switch,
thus not having to take their eyes off of the road while turning it on or off.

Tools Needed:
Ratchet
8” Extension
10mm Socket
Phillips Screwdriver
Standard Screwdriver
Marker Pen
Hole Saw or Dremel Tool.

Although it’s not necessary to disconnect the battery at this time, it is recommended,
as it’s easy to cause a short in the setup while modding the switch over.

At the very least, do not have the ignition keyed up!!

*This’ll keep the ECM from having power.

How the Switch is placed for the American Market.
This mod puts the switch in the JDM/Etc position for easier access.

Parts needed:

Cover/Blank
Spare ECT Switch out of a similar year Cressida/Corolla/Camry, with the appropriately rotated Lettering.

Part 2:

Now for the procedure. :D

Remove the center-panel/bucket from below the stereo area.

Remove the pop clips on the sides, no, I have never been able to save them.
I suggest picking up a couple spares from the local recycler at the same time you grab the parts needed.

Pull back on the unit, and it’ll come free, carefully rotate it and remove.

Remove the 4 phillips screws securing the shifter panel enclosure.

Remove the 4 10 mm bolts from the center armrest console bucket/rear heater cover,
taking care to remove any levers/etc that apply to the heater system.

*Note-now’s a good time to take care of the rear heater assembly, and replace/repair bad hoses, leaks, etc.
There’s a different mounting setup of the console, so things are slightly different here, don’t worry, you can do this.

To remove the two panels, begin by removing the armrest assembly first.

Now, carefully lift up on the shifter enclosure, you’ll see the lower part of the connection for the ECT.

Take care as there’s a bendable bracket holding the wiring.

Disconnect the wiring plug, and remove the panel.

Part 3:

To relocate the ECT switch, you’ll want to move things around.

First, remove the switch from the panel, by carefully pushing up from underneath.

Put both switches side by side, and begin disassembly.

Insulated gloves, or at least Nitrile/Latex are highly recommended at this point.
No sense in damaging electronics.

You’ll want to use the standard tip screwdriver, to very carefully pry open
the two snap plates located in the center/top of this picture.

As you pry on the snap plates, push lightly on the switch, and it’ll pop apart.

Part 4:

Now, there are two types of switches, from what I’ve seen, depending on model and year,
one with four wires, one with 5.

In this case, the only switch that was available was a 5 wire.

The reason for the switch disassembly, in this situation is so that the proper unit
can be inserted into the alternative style assembly enclosure.

You’ll see two little ears located on the inner side of the switch.
*The topmost portion of the switch in this picture.

Cut off the two ears, and reassemble the switch.

Part 5:

Remove your little coin holders from the armrest assembly, and if you have a 4Runner,
relocate the rear window control switch to wherever you like.

*Me, I like it in the center, as the rocker switch has a raised edge,
making access to both switches easier, and more intuitive.

Why? I can feel where they are, rather than having to look away from the road.

Now to modify the shifter panel to clear you’re wiring, as it’ll be a little closer to the center of the assembly.

Mark off the enclosure, cut away, and clean up any sharp edges.

Relocate the coin holder to the shift enclosure panel, and replace the panel.

Part 6:

Now that the switches are located, replace the armrest assembly, reconnect the ECT wiring plug, and stop.

The reason to stop right now is to verify that the ECT switch and Safety Switch are operational.

For some reason, the switch, if disconnected for any period of time,
may cause the transmission to not be able to be shifted.

Engage the Parking Brake Fully.

Start the vehicle.

Depress the brake.

Shift the vehicle into drive.

Release the parking brake.

All good??

If not, turn the vehicle off. Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes.

Reconnect the battery and follow the procedure again.

If at this point, you’re still unable to shift, repeat the above, disconnect and reconnect
the ECT wiring plugs to reset the ECM, so it reads the circuit.

DO NOT FORCE SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION AND DO NOT USE THE TOWING BYPASS.
THIS WILL CONFUSE THE ECM, AND WASTE YOU’RE TIME.

Part 7:

Once you’re sure the vehicle’s back in operation condition, finish up reinstalling the planels.

*4 phillips screws on the shifter enclosure.
*4 10mm bolts on the center console/rear heater.
*2 pop clips on the center-panel/bucket.

Go out and enjoy how much easier it is to access the ECT switch while driving.

Like I said,
It’s Right at your fingertips!!