[bamachem]

I have developed this weird front-end CLUNK that I'm having trouble diagnosing.

The noise occurs when the steering wheel is turned at least partially, and I move slowly over a bump, like a speed bump or rain gutter while turning, either steering wheel fixed on one position or in the process of moving.  Most of the time, there will be some small "crack" noises here and there with one loud clunk/pop noise.  It happens ONLY when going slowly AND turning.  It will not do it when cycling the suspension while stationary, and it doesn't do it when going fast or straight.  The sound appears to be coming from the driver side only.

I have checked the ball joints, and they appear to be perfect, no play, and good boots.  The steering is nice and tight, and the linkages seem to be in good condition with no play, etc.  No clicks when turning on flat, level ground w/ the AWD engaged.  The top nut on the strut is good and tight, and the bushings on the top and bottom of the top plate appear to be in good shaope.  Weird...

Anyway, I'm thinking that it's a CV axle/joint, and here's why.  When turning, the CV joint is in a different position than for straight, normal driving.  Combine that with a cycle of the suspension (upwards) and the CV joints on the driver side have to compress to take up the additional length as the wheel hub gets closer to the same elevation as the output of the differential. 

I'm pretty sure that this is my issue, but I just want to check here to make sure.  I have some Poly steering rack bushings (first thing I checked) ready to install since mine allow the rack to move almost an inch on flat ground.  I'm also ready to replace the front shocks (148k on them) since the lower eye bushings are very weak even though the shocks still feel fine.  I'm thinking of getting an Auto Zone CV Axle for $70 and swapping that while I'm already doing the other work.

Has anyone else had a similar noise, and if so, what was the cause?

[lee]

i was thinking cv too...

[Vermejo]

If you rack checked out seems correct that your CV is issue.  I just replaced both of mine; one ripped out of the cage and the other clicking on turns. 

[4Runner202020]

the are like $130 at autozone i suggest napa. i just got one there for $62. but at autozone they keep you in the computer for the lifetime warrenty but at napa you have to keep your recept. (or however you spell it. lol) but ya it does sound cv related...

[lee]

advance sells them for i think 70 with lifetime too

[BruceTS]

CV  or swaybar bushing/mount

[Seanz0rz]

im battling the same clunking sound. i have a few other things to eliminate before i tackle new CV's, but im pretty sure thats what the issue is. hope that solves your problem. im also looking at replacing control arm bushings up front. mine have 150 miles on them and are probably shot.

[bamachem]

thanks for the input.  the swaybar mount bushings are beginning to show a little weakness, but not to the point of deterioration.  the end link bushings look good, and the nuts are on tight, so i don't think it's swaybar binding on the threads of the links.

i'm really leaning to the CV.

i think it was Advance, not Auto Zone that i got the last ones for the red 4runner for $70 each or something like that.  i'll probably just get one of them and pop it in when i'm in there swapping front shocks and steering rack bushings.

[lee]

andy, you ever post a pic of the black runner??

[bamachem]

lol... come to think of it, i don't think i have.

it's stock, two-tone limited, except for the 17" sequoia gunmetal wheels (265/75 revo's on them).

[lee]

gonna need a visual

[bamachem]

Ok, problem solved.

Last weekend, I swapped the Steering Rack Bushings to some Poly Performance Bushings from Wheeler's.  Steering response was MUCH improved and it felt so much better driving down the road, but the clunk was still there.  Not as bad it seemed like, but still there.

So this morning, I was planning on pulling the driver-side CV for a swap.  Advance couldn't get one in until 1pm, so it was a good time to do an oil change (Mobil1 Extended drain mixed with two quarts of Royal Purple...)  Anyway, while under there w/ the skid plates off, I was checking everything that I could. 

Ball joints - OK
Steering linkage ends - OK
Pulled the boot off the DS steering linkage where it goes into the rack - OK
Checked the play in the CV shaft, bother laterally and axially - OK.

Looked around, perplexed.  That's when I noticed it.

The driver front Alignment Cam bolt was in a different spot than where it was last weekend when I was working on the steering rack.  Looked at the Passenger Rear Cam - SAME THING!

These two are the ones that the suspension compression movement will loosen up if they're not properly torqued.  As the arm travels upward (typical movement when on-road, hitting bumps), the rotational direction that it moves is the same direction that will loosen the bolt.  For the driver rear and passenger front, the movement is in the direction that would TIGHTEN the bolts.  Therefore, only the Driver Front and Passenger Rear bolts require a higher torque than what's listed in the FSM.  I torque these two trouble-makers to at least 80 ft-lbs and like to get them upwards of 90.

I tightened them down, and now the CLUNK is gone! 

I never thought that those bolts being loose would cause such a horrible noise that would be absolutely next to impossible to diagnose.

Anyway, PROBLEM SOLVED!

[Bob98SR5]

andy,

sweet.  hey, can you take/post some pics?

bob

[bamachem]

pics?  of the cam/bolts?  sure...

[Skrillah]

Yeah for us more "newbies"...

Although, I've been in my runner for 3 years now. ;-p