2016 Tacoma Pop & Lock Install (Tailgate Lock)
So this is a brief overview of the Pop & Lock (not the dance move...) installed on Dad's 2016 Tacoma.
We started with this video, which does a pretty good job at explaining it. I won't go into step by step detail, since someone else already has. We did do a few things different, which I will highlight. The 2016 Tacoma has the same lock mechanism as the 07+ Tundra. all install instructions are virtually the same with the exception of the wiring (which we will get to later).
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Youtube Video in glorious 360P: https://youtu.be/KyzdTEV_sBI
Starting with the tailgate, remove (16) T-30 Torx screws. They install into plastic inserts, so be careful not to strip them when going back in.
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Lock mechanism before:
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Remove the M6 hex bolt (10mm socket) in the bottom right corner as pictured.
The solenoid bracket fits around the black plastic pin and under the bolt.
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Grease up the contact points on the slide and reinstall the M6 hex bolt. A ratcheting wrench is a must here!
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It is now installed, but there is wiring to do! On the end of the lock, there are bullet connectors. I know they install them so you can run the wire harness into the tailgate with the smallest possible hole, but in my opinion, they are crap. I swap them out for a waterproof connector that is very close to Toyota OEM.
Weatherpac good, bullet connector bad:
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Wiring in the tailgate finished:
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Carried the wire out through the stock grommets for the back up camera:
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From there, I took the tailgate harness and zip tied it to the gray bundle that feeds the inverter in the bed. I followed this all the way up to under the front passenger seat. The connection to the body harness occurs over the axle. The tailgate will never be removed so this is a fine location for us. If you plan on ever removing the tailgate, it might be more convenient to put it close to the connection for the back up cam.
I found where the wiring for the inverter enters the cab, and used that grommet.
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Like it came from the factory:
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That route was chosen to avoid the heat from the catalytic converter.
The wire runs up to the Passenger's kick panel. I failed to get pictures of the actual wiring.
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Our wiring was backwards from what is posted in the video. Green (lock) went to Green (truck) and Blue (lock) went to Red (truck). I am not sure why this is different but I would highly encourage anyone doing this modification to thoroughly check first by using some clip leads and probes (or paper clips work too). Everything was soldered and encased in heatshrink.
Pretty easy job, always nice to work on a new vehicle!
