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so idont know were to start i want to keep the IFS for ride comfort i want like a 6in lift and fit 35's... but thats not going to happen cus im a :loser:. so will a 3in lift and do a 1in body lift fit 33x12.50 at fell flex while the wheel is turned with no rub
jasen
Edit Rocko: Changed Thread Title for Clarification.
Welcome Jasen.
If you are wanting help, it's usually a good idea to post up your vehicle information. Help us to have a starting point in trying to give you some advice on the best way to accomplish your goals for your rig. Good Luck man!
ya sounds like it might help well i drive a 88 pickup bone stock goals would be a streetable truck that i can hit the trails with without getting stuck ever 5 mins this is my first 4x4 and my DD if you guys can give info on what lift kits you recommened thanks
jasen
You can fit 33s with a 1" -1.5" torsion bar crank (or ball joint spacers), a 1" BL and slight pounding of the inner fender. Not much lift is needed for 33s. Generally, the consensus is the less lift the better so you don't roll the truck on the trail. However, there is something to be said about a little more ground clearance. 6" of lift is overkill
Lockers will get you farther down the trail than any lift.
Edit: I just saw your other thread where you said you are going to bob the bed. That changes things a little because that means you're more adventurous than the typical person who asks about 6" lifts. If you're trying to go cheap, then stick with 33s and a small lift. Bigger is more expensive so save up for a SAS.
What else are you planning on doing to the truck?
lift, lockers and more power things a turd with your foot on the gas. mostly want to bob the bed because of the look it gives. i set steel so im vevy good with a cutting wheel, welder, and my brother works at a body shop. right now i just want to be bigger than some jeeps and when i learn how to dive offroad but a new DD and shoot of the stars.
If you are good with metal, there is always the no lift option. I'm running 35's with no lift up front, and about an inch overall in the rear.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...e/IMG_4169.jpg
As already stated, your money is better spent on gears and lockers.
I was running 33's last year on this same set up:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...e/DSC02093.jpg
Many many folks been where you have. I lifted it first, and found out that it sucked. Took the lift back out. Lifting the IFS is hard on the steering, as are 35's. If you go to the larger tire with the lift, go to the junk yard and get yourself some spares. And then carry the tools to change stuff. Also a good plan to learn how to change CV axles. Its quite easy with a few simple modifications.
Something else to consider: A SAS will almost for SURE ride better than beat old torsion bar IFS. Can't stand mine, and the ride quality blows.
the only upside to keeping the ifs is high speed off-road.. (which the stock setup is not very good for)... and the only way ifs is good for that is with a long travel setup (which is definitely a viable option...) a long travel with a 1-2" body lift will get you your 6" lift
axleike what all did you cut out to not rub. what lockers are good i dont want weld it we get a lot of snow. power what have you guys done to get more
first off, do you have a 22re or a 3vze?
2nd, there are a lot of good options for lockers:
-you can stay toyota and pick up an e-locker from a trd tacoma or 4runner with the option
- you can go ARB air actuated lockers
- you can get an auto-locker, which is what most of us have. I personally have an Aussie, several people on here have Lock-Rite, and Detroit is another good option
I too am interested in what AxleIke cut out.
22re and whats the difference betweem a e-locker and a auto-locker sorry about all the questions just want to build my truck right
an e-locker is a selectable locker, you can turn it on and off when ever you want. the one that would swap into your truck is from a 96-02 4runner or 95.5-04 tacoma. you must modify the housing (weld, drill, tap, grind) for it to fit in your vehicle, and there is a bit of wiring to be done (i happen to sell harnesses for that if you are interested ;))
an auto locker encompass many different brands and styles, and is a subsection of limited slip devices. they require no modification to the housing, though you most likely have to set up the gears again after the install. how they work: your differential allows differing speeds of each tire, but those speeds average to the pinion speed. when this average is disturbed by only one tire turning and the other not, it engages. there are a few different styles of mechanisms, but they all work the same.
on choosing: users report auto lockers to be difficult to handle in icy conditions, as the rear is always wanting to lock, usually sending it sliding past the front of the vehicle. price is a concern. you should expect to pay between 300 and 600 for a used elocker, plus wiring, installation materials, etc. an auto locker is between 200 and 400, again plus installation materials.
it is really up to you on your wants and needs. this only applies to the rear axle. the front is a little bit different: your choices are between an auto and a ARB air locker. i personally dont like ARB's because all i see is them leaking air and being unreliable at the time when you really need them. an auto in the front is ok if you have manual hubs (which i believe you do).
hope that helps a little bit. i really recommend you search on this subject. i know i have a post about my elocker swap, others have posts about their locker setups as well.
I cut out the pinchweld, flexed the tire to see how far it would need to go back, pounded it back, and welded it back together.Quote:
Originally Posted by 719poot
I wanted to run factory alloys, so I also cut out most of my ball joint spacer and upper a-arm and re welded everything with 1/4 and 3/16" plate.
I have a build thread in the 79-95 trucks forum.
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=6252.0
Skip to the end if you aren't interested in all the rest, thats where the fender and a arm mods are.
As for power, don't waste your money on anything short of a turbo or supercharger, a cam/valve train swap with some head and piston work, or a bigger motor swap.
Any of the bolt on power mods are crap. I wasted a bunch of money on an intake, header, and exhaust, and got ZERO performance gains, and a much lighter wallet. I hated that, and wish I'd never done them.
I have two ARBS, as do many, many others. THere have been just a few air issues, due to install problems, that I've seen. I have never had an air leak and have had zero problems in 30k miles. They are a spendy locker, but are a big upgrade in strength over the stock carrier, are exceptional both on and off road, and have excellent reliability.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seanz0rz
The air leak concern is blown way out of proportion. IMO, the ONLY downside to the ARBs is the cost.
I agree. My ARB has been going strong for the past 5 years or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by AxleIke
thanks guys got some great info now to jump into this money pit
once your in it your hooked :-P i know i am