Speaker foam repair?

I discovered last night that one of my Infiniti Reference SM82 home speakers has lost its foam due to sun exposure. This made me sad.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1...UNSET%255D.jpg

Has anyone ever re-foamed a speaker? I found some kits available online for $25 that are specific to the speaker manufacturer:
[img width=800 height=600]http://www.simplyspeakers.com/assets/images/NewEdgeKits/FSK-8.jpg[/img]
http://www.simplyspeakers.com/infini...kit-fsk-8.html

Is it even worth trying? I would love to use this as justification for a newer, more compact surround sound home theatre arrangement, but I have a wedding to pay for at the moment. :confused:

Those have sun damage through speaker cloth? Are you sure you just haven't been bumping the tunes too hard?

At a regular listening volume is the audio degraded because of the missing foam? If not I'd run it as it is until it's toast or until after the wedding. The kit doesn't look all that hard to install if you had to go that route.

I'm surprised you haven't plasti-dipped it.

When we listen to the iPod through the stereo the volume has to be turned 1/3rd way up just to hear anything at all. It got switched over to radio with the volume turned up and I think that did in the the speaker surrounds.

I didn't think of pastidip, haha. I would like to somehow refinish these darker, if not even black. I assume speakers are just a veneer?

With the surround torn the backwave from the cone is able to meet the frontwave and you'll get bass cancellation. The only real downside is that the box is no longer sealed and providing an acoustical suspension, so if you turn up the volume too high you could hit the mechanical limits of the driver and cause damage. I've never replaced a surround but it shouldn't be too difficult. Those speakers are almost definitely particle board or MDF with a veneer.

- Matt

Thanks Matt. I read some reviews and people are happy with the results after replacing the surrounds with the kit. I will give it a try and report back.

How difficult would it be to re-veneer this in a dark espresso color, like this?
http://www.3dsi.co.za/JBL%20Domestic...hite%2004).jpg

Ken,

Applying veneer is not very difficult. I would strongly recommend getting paper backed veneer and going with the thickest wood layer that is a reasonable price. Some veneers are adhesive backed, otherwise you can use contact cement and a roller to apply them. If you want to replicate that look you could go with an oak veneer and then look into dark stains or possibly a thin paint.

Here's a few veneer projects I've done in the past for inspiration.

My first veneer project was with real wood (no backing). This was a MAJOR pain and I don't recommend it. You have to bookmatch the veneer to get a wide enough sheet, and it tends to split easily. It is ok on flat surfaces, but not fun at all on curves.

http://www.blankwhitepage.com/galler...l_System02.jpg

More pictures at http://www.blankwhitepage.com/gallery/em1


The next project used paper backed maple adhered using contact cement. Pretty easy to do.
http://www.blankwhitepage.com/galler...s/IMG_0097.jpg

More pictures at http://www.blankwhitepage.com/gallery/grandpops


The sides on this pre-amp are paper backed oak veneer.
http://www.blankwhitepage.com/galler...amp/Preamp.jpg

More pictures at http://www.blankwhitepage.com/gallery/foreplay_preamp


- Matt

Wow Matt, that is some impressive work! I guess I didn't realize that veneer had a layer of real wood capable of taking stain. I always thought veneer meant it was like wallpaper. Where did you purchase your veneer products?

Ken,

Thanks. With wood veneer you can sand it (to an extent) and definitely apply a finish. I've purchased it at local specialty wood shops and also ordered it online. My recommendation would be to get paper backed veneer, and the thicker the wood layer the better assuming you don't have to bend around any curves.

Installation is pretty simple. There is a debate on what adhesive to use, I've tried both dedicated veneer glue and contact cement and had MUCH better success with contact cement. Some people also use standard wood glue that they allow to dry and then re-activate with an iron, but I'd still probably go with the contact cement.

The veneer will likely come in a roll so you should let it sit out for a day or to to flatten. Then you just cut it slightly larger than the panel, apply adhesive as per the can, and then put the veneer on to the enclosure. Use a roller and/or a hammer and a wood block to press down on the veneer to get good adhesion. Once dry use a razor blade to trim it to the enclosure making sure to keep the cuts vertical. When cutting it flush it helps to put the veneered panel face side down on a piece of scrap wood and cutting through from the back, this helps prevent tear out. Once all panels are veneered you can use some sandpaper to break the edges and smooth the faces and you are ready for finish. The one downside of paper backed veneers is that the paper line is slightly visible on the edges, but with most finishes this is not a problem.

- Matt

Matt, thanks, I found some results I really like. Here's an ebony veneer finished with piano lacquer. It's not for everyone, but I think it's a fun modern look.
http://www.ecoustics.com/electronics...381/702135.jpg

BTW, those are Lansche Audio 5.1's at $45,000 a pair. LINK