Limited Fender Install (Warning you will need to drill the door panels)

This was possibly one of the worst/best mods that I have done IMO simply because it adds a lot to the 4runner's appearance and paint protection as well. This is a time consuming mod as well as a tedious one so patience will be your main weapon of choice.

If you can source your parts from the salvage yard. These items are NOT cheap new. Here was my price list although I am sure results will vary.

Limited fenders and door molding $100 (salvage yard)
3m VHB adhesive tape 15yd $35
Plastic Body molding rivets $20
Black RTV $10

Tools:
Drill
Round File
Standard and Phillips Screwdriver
M10 bolts with nuts
JB Weld Marine Edition
Acetone
Pliers

There isn't a whole lot of instruction to this write-up because each individual will probably figure out their own way of doing it however the trick of lining up the panels correctly is definitely worth sharing. Work from back to front and things will be slightly easier imo. Take your time lining up the panels and then they look good put the black rtv around the holes that you want to drill. Ensuring that it is perfect then press the flare to the body and you will have a good mark to use the drill with. The back door is CRITICAL. I wish I had more pictures of that part as it has a metal brace behind it that will make or break the project. It also sets up the most distance on the vehicle and definitely takes the most time to line up. This is the part to do sober if you are daring enough to drink while doing this. The key to this whole project is pretty basic but will have you cussing all day long. Don't force any of the pieces to lay this way or that. It is better to adjust the hole than to force the flare pieces. It has to lay naturally against the truck or it won't look right.

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For extra personal insurance I used two bolts per piece for the door cladding and the front fender. The rear fender is two pieces and really is well supported by itself plus it would be the very devil to get a nut on the backside of the panel back there.

Ensure that you look at the entire piece lined up before drilling. 6 times out of 10 I had to wipe the RTV off....and try again. I think I have pretty much everything down but if you have any questions I will definitely respond. :cool:

I havnt seen those in person. Any chance the rear flairs could be hollowed out to so that the wheel well can be cut at a higher arch? There is about 1" of uptravel I could gain if I hack the fender, but my flairs attach differently then yours.

My first thought would be yes but you probably would only get another 1-2 inches at most. The inner side of these fenders is hollow till you get to the attachment point. I will double check tomorrow to see if you could get that 1" you are lookin for.

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cool I'll keep it in mind. I'll be doing my rear suspension in a couple weeks. That extra 1" of uptravel may be important in fitting the 12" shocks I got.

Just double checked this morning. You might want to do a little glass work to keep mud from filling up the flare if you trim up but what you are talking about doing is indeed possible.

From all of the research and tweaking you have put into your suspension a little bit of fiberglass is probably an easy day.

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