Writeup: Retrofitting a Toyota e-locker

http://4runners.org/image/elocker/mod/notches.jpg

Retrofitting a Toyota e-locker

Finally got around to finishing this one up!

sweet write-up as always :thumbup:

Nice write up Bob! Good enough that I have an overwhelming sense of deja vu! ;)

When are we going to go use it?

this should keep me busy around x-mas time!

ken,

so you still are alive! :D

most definitely when the weather cools down. i am still working on the veggie benz though which is sapping all my mod and trip money away. but yeah, its still not broken in yet!

sean: pending my schedule in a few months, call on me and i'll help ya out as much as i can. the thing that consumed most of our time was having to retap the holes and enlarging the diff holes to accomodate my crappy drilling and tapping

bob

Just to add for the future wiki...my method for aligning the holes for the studs. No need for a drill press. I also don't recommend using the gasket as a template. The gasket could move and the holes are too big to accurately find the center. Then you have to set up a drill press to ensure the drill bit is perpendicular to the axle housing. You can't assume the stage is perpendicular to the bit.

Bolt up the third member to the axle housing using several of the studs and nuts (the more the better). Make sure the nuts are tight so the diff can't move around.

Use a drill bit that is as close to the stud hole size in the third member as possible. Note that this bit is bigger than the bit needed for the tap. A standard length bit should barely be long enough to reach the axle housing. Drill a small dimple into the housing. Don't drill too deep because remember that the drill bit is too big for the tap.

The dimple will help center the real bit used for the tap. Ideally, a transfer punch should be used and essentially does the same thing but more precisely. Once the dimple is there, start drilling the hole with the correct size bit trying to keep the bit centered in the third member hole.

The long stud is the easiest because the third member helps align the bit while drilling.

here is my addition to your write up, concerning wiring and non functioning LOCKED indicator:



To test if you locker works in your driveway: chock the front wheels, release the parking brake and put the transmission into neutral. Lift one tire off of the ground by putting a floor jack under one side of the axle. Engage the locker. Rotate the lifted tire in the air until it locks. It may already have locked without rotation. IF your “LOCKED” indicator does not illuminate, there is a simple fix. With one wheel up in the air, and the switch in the locked position, remove the actuator from the 3rd member. With the actuator set aside, look into the differential, you will see teeth laid out horizontally. Reach in the hole and push the teeth towards the center of the differential. Your “LOCKED” indicator should come on. If it does not, try moving the tire back and fourth to get it to lock. If you are confident the teeth are all the way towards the center of the differential, but the LOCKED indicator is not lit, remove the locked position switch, the nut with the smaller electrical connector in the center with a 27mm wrench. Test continuity in the switch by depressing the ball bearing side into the housing. If continuity does not exist even when the switch is closed, replace the switch. If the switch checks out ok, then double check your wiring. Ensure the light is not burned out or connected incorrectly.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Test the locker several times, making sure the locker fully engages and disengages each time. Finally, disengage the locker, lower the rear wheel and apply the parking brake, remove the wheel chocks and you are ready to go!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robinhood4x4

Just to add for the future wiki...my method for aligning the holes for the studs. No need for a drill press. I also don't recommend using the gasket as a template. The gasket could move and the holes are too big to accurately find the center. Then you have to set up a drill press to ensure the drill bit is perpendicular to the axle housing. You can't assume the stage is perpendicular to the bit.

Bolt up the third member to the axle housing using several of the studs and nuts (the more the better). Make sure the nuts are tight so the diff can't move around.

Use a drill bit that is as close to the stud hole size in the third member as possible. Note that this bit is bigger than the bit needed for the tap. A standard length bit should barely be long enough to reach the axle housing. Drill a small dimple into the housing. Don't drill too deep because remember that the drill bit is too big for the tap.

The dimple will help center the real bit used for the tap. Ideally, a transfer punch should be used and essentially does the same thing but more precisely. Once the dimple is there, start drilling the hole with the correct size bit trying to keep the bit centered in the third member hole.

The long stud is the easiest because the third member helps align the bit while drilling.

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I like this idea! I am going to use it for sure. I have access to a drill press but I was concerned myself on how I was going to actually center the holes. I will also take lots of pics for this write-up. I am hoping to dive in next weekend on this project and get it over with. I've done a lot to my truck and I want to go out and use it lol.

It definitely works. I've done it twice now without having to redo any of the holes.

I'm sure I read this post before my install but never posted in it. I used a transfer punch and a cordless Dewalt to drill my holes.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p...0/DSC07737.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1...0/DSC07736.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T...0/DSC07738.jpg