It manifests itself through the steering wheel, which is why I consider it a front end issue.
Removing axle shaft to replace the third member studs and reseal it.
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It manifests itself through the steering wheel, which is why I consider it a front end issue.
Removing axle shaft to replace the third member studs and reseal it.
Gotcha. Definitely easier to do with the entire housing pulled.
I used factory Toyota studs but I think it was Marlin or TG that made the studs that thread in from the inside. If I pulled mine I would use those as I think at least two of my studs spin. I have a very slight leak that doesn't drip but after 6 months leaves a little damp spot. I can't tighten the studs near it, because they spin, and nothing I've put in the sealing area seems to stop it. It's not enough to bother me or pull out anything but I think about it every so often.
Another thing I'd do as long as I was draining it is to replace the plug with the hex key type. I've mangled mine and I like the protected hex type. I'd also buy a second as a spare. Recently on someones trip report they lost a factory plug on the trail. They think hitting on a rock just right loosened it up. Loosing fluid is one thing but the plug somewhere along the way would suck. The too buy list for spares is getting longer the more time I spend on the internet.
I have new factory studs. They come with some preapplied thread sealer, and none of them are stripped to my knowledge.
When I did the elocker retrofit, I didn't get the long studs tapped straight, so removing the third is a nightmare.
I used the ones with the sealer as well. The problem I have is that the stud spins and thus the nut won't tighten. My threaded holes aren't stripped. The ones I mentioned have a head on them and when you tighten the nut it pulls up on the already bottomed out stud.
That clunking really validates 4x4mike's idea. It could also be that one of the link ends has separated. That would be harder to spot. I was crawling all over the underside of my truck yesterday and everything that is rubber has suffered in the desert. Found all kinds of damage that up close you can see but from a few feet away looks just fine.
I'll move discussion back to this thread.
It was suggested to remove the rear drive shaft and see if that is the source of my vibration.
I removed the dshaft and took it on some higher speed surface streets (55-60 mph). I noticed a reduction, but not an elimination of the vibration. It feels better.
I did have a thought towards the end of the run, and slipped the transmission into neutral. The vibration was back. I think this narrows it to the front 2 wheels.
I also noted that I need new front shocks. Under acceleration, any significant bump in the road would cause the wheels to chirp, telling me the shocks are not doing their job of keeping the wheels and road connected to one another. I pretty well knew this anyway. I think the dead shocks are one reason this vibration is getting worse.
The experience of having the 4Runner as FWD was horrible! The steering wheel doesn't return to center after a turn, it torque steers like a 250 hp fwd car, and you really notice the difference between RWD and FWD. I didn't think it was going to be so noticeable.
Next step is to rotate in the spare tire. I'll start with the front right.
Clunking has been narrowed down to the air bags and spacers moving around. I don't have the energy to remove them.
put the dshaft back in and I'm going to take it for the same loop. see how it does. that way I have a good comparison in my head.
With the vibe being gone when the front wheels are under power, maybe it has something to do with the bearings.
I want to say that the rear drive shaft is not the cause. The vibration is worse with it installed, but I think that is more due to the front wheels being free than any imbalance in the shaft or play in the joints (they all felt pretty good). I'm just not sure.
Could it be play in the output shafts of the tcase? Just an odd thought. It might help explain why the vibration was worse when you put the rear shaft back in.
I think the wheel bearings are worth checking out though.
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Only thing I felt was backlash in the gears. No play in or out or radially.