Swapping a 1UZFE (Lexus 4.0 V8) into a 2nd Gen 4Runner (LONG)
The specs: 1993 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 Auto 4x4
Here's the victim when the 3.0 V6 let go...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I weighed the option of rebuilding vs. swapping and came to the realization that throwing more money at the 3.0 V6 (3VZE) aka Toyota's worst engine didn't make sense long term. My plan was to keep this rig and slowly transform it into a real offroad performer.
My goal with the engine swap was to net out at $2000 or under after selling off what wasn't used.
I started with the selection of motor. Many have done the 3.4 V6 (5VZE) so that was a possibility. Another popular swap is the 3.0 I6 (7MGE or 7MGTE), but in Pennsylvania, you can't swap in an engine from an older vehicle. The successor to the 7M motors are the 2JZ series of motors, commonly found in Lexus SC300, GS300, IS300 and the latest Supra. These motors held promise, but the length of the motors concerned me. Also, these motors seemed to be budget busters for my project.
I had learned about a swap pioneered "down under" in Australia and New Zealand that really intrigued me. They love their Toyota's down there and have had access to the Toyota 4.0 V8 (1UZFE) for quite some time. This motor is available in the U.S. in Lexus LS400, SC400, and GS400's. These motors are also plentiful on the used Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) and are imported into the U.S. when they are at 50K miles or under. This is the route I decided to pursue. This motor is an extraordinary package: 4 cams, 32 valves, 6 bolt mains, forged internals, aluminum block and heads and it looks good too.
You can read about more swaps over at Lextreme
Since I was doing this swap, there were other "might as wells" that have come into play. Mainly, since I was changing the position of the motor and some driveshaft alterations were likely, it seemed a good time to explore installing a crawler. I had already purchased two gear driven cases for this purpose, so all that was left was to contact Marlin Crawler .
To add crawler gears, the tranmission needed to be swapped out (I planned to retain an auto). The quest began to figure out what would work with the 1UZFE. After some research and buying various parts to check them out, I have settled on a A340F out of a 2000 4Runner Limited. The only modifications I plan to make initially are just for compatibility. Through this process, I have acquired a complete LS400 auto trans and also parts from a Tundra automatic (bellhousing, oil pump and torque converter). It appears that the Tundra TC is a great deal heavier and slightly deeper. The Tundra TC should be the ticket to longevity of this trans setup.
So, the final config I've arrived at is:
1UZFE V8 | Tundra BH/TC/Oil Pump | A341E LS400 Trans Input & Planetary setup | 2000 4Runner A340F | Marlin Auto Adapter plate and Coupler | 1st Tcase with 2.28 gears | MC07 adapter | 2nd Tcase with 4.7 gears
For the time being, the independent front suspension (IFS) will remain. As funds allow, a solid axle will be swapped (SAS) under the front end.
Any of you that were following along in the other thread knew I got screwed out of a prime 2UZ. 11K miles, complete. Sucks, but out of my hands.
Probably a blessing as some others have suggested the weight of the 2UZ iron block may be an issue. Fortunately, the 1UZ is an all alloy block and offers a substantial weight savings. I haven't found a weight on the 2UZ, but what I've discovered is the 1UZ weighs about 196kg (431 lbs) I had heard estimates that the 2UZ was 600 lbs +.... (I'm curious what the 3VZE weighs...)
So, today the first step has been taken. I've ordered up a wiring harness and AFM for the 1UZ. I also have a line on a low mileage JDM engine in New York, so I might be renting a pickup truck and taking a road trip.
I'm planning to also get the tranny from behind the 1UZ and convert it 4WD. It is an easy (albeit time consuming due to the level of disassembly) conversion. That way I'm assured the ECU and tranny are working together as they should. This may change if there is a better solution (ie. As strong, with less work...)
So, as of today I still need:
Engine
Transmission (or bellhousing only some other tranny)
ECU (pending)
I'll need to fab:
Motor mounts
Accessory mounts (?)
Exhaust
Intake
Misc other stuff
Hopefully the only upcoming drama has to do with fitting the engine and not with obtaining parts.... :D
Bought an engine today - JDM 1UZFE between under 50k miles:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7951738310
Hopefully this one will actually materialize... :roll:
I also found a LS400 tranny that I'll convert to 4wd. Anyone have access to or know where I can find a blown up a340f tranny? All I need from it is the output shaft and tailhousing...
Thanks to Bill (PAHydrohead) for picking up the tranny for me.
I already have an Engine Harness, ECU, and AFM.
The 1UZFE (Lex 4.0) is around 430 lbs. The 2UZFE (Toy 4.7) is over 600 lbs.
EDIT: I read elsewhere tonight that the engine is around 175kg. I think that means about 385 lbs.
I'm keeping the A/C definitely!! Fortunately for me, mine needed recharged at the end of last summer, so I'm not wasting a fresh or good charge to reroute pipes.
No good pics cause the engine is on a skid, shrinkwrapped and banded. I'm not breaking it down until I get it to the shop.
I did measure it as best I could, it's about 24-25" wide, 24-25" long and around 23" tall (not including the sump). An approximate eye-balling of the 3VZE shows the 1UZFE is only an inch or two wider at the valve covers, but narrower overall due to the distributor, a good 3"+ longer, and I couldn't get a good height on the 3VZE. It will be alot easier to compare with them side by side when the 3.0 is out and the 4.0 is unpacked.
Oh yeah - it's mine...ALL MINE!!!! Muhahahaha!!!!!!!
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
It might be more like 2 1/2" longer in reality. I really couldn't get good dims. Seems to be a fair amount of space betweeen the current engine and the firewall (no crossover pipe on the back of the 1UZ :D ), so I'll shift back as much as possible, absolute minimum forward (obviously). I need stuff out of the engine bay so I can get in there...
Here's a shot of one of the shop inhabitants:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/S...20(Medium).jpg
That's a roadrace body under the tarp - with molded in flares for covering nice big meats. The frame has been stripped and powdercoated. That's a 502 big block getting a test fit... :cool: Note the carbon fiber half shafts at the rear...
The 4Runner and engine will be at the raceshop next week.
I guess this is progress... :roll:
Pic of the LS400 trans to be converted to 4WD:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
2WD Tailhousing and output:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I will be getting my own garage "stall" at the raceshop :bigok: - stuff had to get moved around to make room for me. Was supposed to move the 4Runner down there for a while now - looks like tomorrow if weather permits (we are supposed to get 4 inches of snow tonight and another 3 tomorrow) I won't be able to get rolling on this until after May 3rd due to workload.
Aside from the Marlin "stuff" I need (easy enough, just order..), I need to locate an a340F tailhousing and output shaft (or an internally grenaded a340f to strip).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Faded
Cebby,
Nice pics, looks like more progress w/the swap. Just curious, but what is the designator on the Lex A/T? Also, it seems like the reference was made in the past that you could use a T100 auto trans, correct? I've been thinking about maybe picking up an earlier (3.slow) T100 and doing the swap but would like to know what I need to look for.
Good luck with the work ahead. If you have time and remember I'm sure we'd all appreciate pics and commentary. :great:
The trans is a 30-41LE (aka a341e). The T100 trans might work for this - I was looking at the pre 95 T100 (a340f) for use behind my 3.0 due to the removable t-case and passenger side drop.
The main reason I'm going with the Lex AT is compatibility. It is entirely possible that the current a340f(or T100 a340f) would work though. Regarding compatibility - I have a 1UZ harness and ECU. The trans is controlled by the ECU, so most of this will be plug and play. You need a bellhousing from a trans used behind either the 1UZ or 2UZ (3UZ probably also), so once I saw how easy it was to convert the 2WD to 4WD (bolt together but time consuming) I thought this was the easiest route. Plus the trans only cost me $300 and it came with the torque converter.
I plan to do a crawler at the same time, so I won't really have much monkeying around with the t-case end of things. The Marlin adapters will make this part the easiest piece of the swap.
Here's the parts list to convert the 2WD trans to 4WD:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...conversion.jpg
Looks like I'll be scaring up a dead A340F somewhere. Even at a 20% discount, those prices are more than a used A340F around here.
Mainly, if you go manual tranny, you can use aftermarket ECU's, but you need a custom bellhousing. I haven't done "alot" of research on manuals since I wasn't going that direction. There are other things needed too - related to the clutch, pressure plate, crank machining (I think) among other things. There are two places specializing in making the parts for these conversions that I know of:
Dellow Automotive: http://www.dellowauto.com.au/main.html
or
Castlemain Rod Shop: http://www.rodshop.com.au/
Re: Swapping a 1UZFE (Lexus 4.0 V8) into a 2nd Gen 4Runner
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusert
Find a junk AW4 out of a Jeep Cherokee and swap the 4WD tailhousing and output shaft, add a clocking ring and bolt up a Dana 300 or atlas. Don't mess with all that Toyota stuff unless you want to spend a lot of $$$$, domestic junkyard stuff is a lot cheaper. :great:
:roll: How is getting an Atlas cheaper? Those are big $$$. Besides, I already have two Toy cases. IMO, putting Jeep parts into a Toy is like...well, like putting Jeep parts in a Toy - beyond backwards... Import junkyard stuff is plenty cheap if you know where to go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 914runner
With Marlin's new front dig Toy t-case no one will ever think of or put a Dana 300 in a Toy again! That thing is gonna be awesome!
So hows the progress with your swap Cebby? Have you found the junk tranny yet?
No on the trans. I just got back from Florida last night - been there since Friday.
We were supposed to pickupp the engine today and tow the Runner to the raceshop, but the warehouse's forklift quit. We are going to try again this Friday.
I have somewhere to try (nearby) for the trans.
I'll be getting new DS's due to the addition of a Crawler while I'm at it. The trans is the same length though. I will be pushing mine back a touch to ease space contraints up front. All of the a34x trannies will bolt to the bellhousing. You also need the correct torque converter.
For example, an A340F or even my A340H will bolt directly to it. I'm using the LS400 trans for three reasons - #1, I know it will "talk" to the ECU (shifting and speed sensors etc) and #2, I know it can take the power. And the big #3..., when I add the tailhousing and output from the A340F, I can bolt up dual cases and maintain my passenger side drop (Using Marlin stuff of course ;) ). This is another reason I'm not just bolting the bellhousing to my existing A340H.
I'm killing several birds with one stone... :D
I wish I had the $$$ to do an SAS now also, but it will have to wait a while... :(
Quote:
Originally Posted by mt_goat
Are the leaking issues of the Marlin adapters holding you up too?
No. Definitely abberations I'd say. If it is the same piece and some leak and some don't, sure sounds like an install issue to me.
BruceTS had mentioned that all of his bolts were loose after 200 miles - I'll bet some folks haven't rechecked their bolts - although, I think Bruce is probably just a touch harder on his rig than most. :laugh:
I didn't know about the internal leak...
I thought you were referring to the external leak on the case-to-case junction that is a current topic here (somewhere). So you are referring to the trans-to-case junction (ie. V6 adapter) I'm assuming. Thanks for the tip. I don't need to get it right away. If it's truly a couple of weeks out, then I can wait. I can fit the motor/trans and worry about the tcases later.
I'll need to ask around on the Marlin board and see what I can dig up. Cheese has this setup, maybe he will chime in. I PM'd him a few days back about something else.
I bought an engine stand today so I can get the motor off of the pallet it came on and start to figure out the bracketry to use all my 3.0 accessories on the "new" motor.
The MC09 connects a gear drive case to the stock case, right? Is there another adapter needed to connect the trans to the t-case?
For the newer rigs, I thought the order was this:
A340F | V6 ADAPTER | GEAR DRIVE REDUCTION BOX | MC09 | STOCK T-CASE
What I plan to do is use all old stuff (cases) behind the trans:
A340F | V6 ADAPTER | GEAR DRIVE REDUCTION BOX | MC07 (or 08) | GEAR DRIVE T-CASE (w/4.0's likely)
Am I missing anything?
Quote:
Originally Posted by sschaefer3
Yes you are. The V6 adapter is for the 3.0 V6 to the Old Junk Gear Driven Case.
The front MC09 is 3.4 Auto/Manual or 2.7 Auto/Manual to Old Junk Gear driven.
So "welcome to our world" here is what your looking at:
A340F | MC09 Front Adapter | GEAR DRIVE REDUCTION BOX | MC07 (or 08) | GEAR DRIVE T-CASE (w/4.7's)
Get the 4.7 gear, it's right on the money.
Yep - sure seems that 4.7's are the way to go. Basically, using the 4.7 low in the rear case by itself is the equivalent of (2) stock 2.28 cases (close anyway). So by having the 4.7's I really get 3 low gear choices (2.28, 4.7 and 10.716) instead of 2 (2.28 and 4.56). As Cheese said, I should put 4.7's in one case while I'm in there.
I did some more digging on the adapters. Thanks for the info Steve. For example the V6 auto unit is 34-AT. The adapter included in the V6 dual ultimate kit is a 30-4GT (for behind a 3.0/5 spd). Since the adapters are the same price, I think Marlin will likely do the package with the 34-AT adapter that I need.
The MC09 is the adapter that connects the geared case to the stock 3rd Gen reduction box/t-case. This keeps those guys with a driver side drop.
Not sure what swap you are considering, but on your generation of rig, you would use an MC07 (or MC08) with two old style gear driven cases to keep your passenger side drop. You would not use the tcase that is behind the 5VZE/a340f.
This is all assuming you are doing a doubler while you are at it.
A few more pieces of the puzzle:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
A340F trans and t-case from a 2000 4Runner V6, 67K miles. After checking out the connectors on the trans, I will likely just use this A340F instead of converting the LS trans to 4WD. There are 3 plugs. Two are identical, one is slightly different, but had I think it had the same number of contacts. I'll just need to get a pigtail for the a340f and splice it into my 1UZ harness.
The LS torque converter fits the input perfectly, but it's clear the VZ bellhousing won't work on the UZ engine. It's too short and the bolt pattern is different.
I was investigating the various dual case adapters (MC07, MC08, and MC08-R10) and it was recommended that the MC07 is perfectly fine to use and that there is no significant advantage of using the MC08. See this thread: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=366164
OK, who needs a transfer case? And what is all that "stuff" hanging off of the tcase in the last pic.
I'm confused. Maybe it's just a vernacular issue though.
To my knowledge from what I've read on Marlin's site, the MC09 is a dual case adapter only. It goes between an old junk case to the stock chain drive case. What you are calling the MC09 front adapter is one of 4 transmission adapters.
For the 5 speeds - 27-4GT and 34-4GT.
For the autos - 27-AT and 34-AT.
Here's where I'm getting my info: http://www.marlincrawler.com/tacomadual.html
Are these tranny couplers suspect? I'm going to call and talk to them today and get the final word.
(I think) my setup will consist of:
JDM 1UZFE | LS400 1UZ Bellhousing/TC | 00' Runner A340F | Marlin 34-AT | Marlin 23 Spline In | Old Junk reduction w/stock 2.28 | Marlin MC07 | Marlin 23 Spline | Old Junk reduction w/Marlin 4.7 | Old Junk T-Case
I called them - I talked to Dean at length.
The status of a revised coupler is "we have no idea".
But, being persistent like I am - and being between a rock and a hard place, I kept pushing. Apparently the "Epoxy Fix" is used in buggies and some daily drivers with success (they have some daily drivers running it for 6 months+ with no leaks).
They said they would make one up for me - ready in about a week. So I ordered up all the stuff I needed.
Steve - is the coupler the small cylinder with gears on the outside in front of the gaskets behind the bolts?
http://www.marlincrawler.com/images/mc08_500.jpg
Does it leak around the outside of it, or through the center?
Got the case off tonight. Piece of cake. It seemed like the bolts holding the TC to the tailhousing weren't torqued much more than 30 lbs. (Just a guess).
Now, the coupler is another matter. That thing is ON there. I didn't want to run the risk of messing it up, so I didn't try too hard.
I think in discussing this we've found the answer. If these couplers have a consistent inside diameter, then the problem isn't with the coupler being too large, but the tcase input being a thou too small. If the OEM one is SO tight that it can't be pulled off by hand, that means the trans output and the tcase input are two diffferent sizes. My .02 anyway.
There is nothing between the shafts in the OEM couplers) I'll try to figure out how to measure to see if there is any space between the shafts. Might be tough without pulling the coupler.
Here's a few pics of the coupler:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Re: Swapping a 1UZFE (Lexus 4.0 V8) into a 2nd Gen 4Runner
Here's some pics comparing the a341 and the a340f.
A341 bellhousing:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
A340F bellhousing:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Well, Marlin is sending his Epoxied version to me that supposedly solves the problem. I'm curious to see how they did it. So far, I think Andy's solution might be the easiest to try if it comes to that.
That sucker is definitely hardened steel. I'm not sure how something like this is made. I don't think they are CNC'd only because it would be difficult to get a tool down inside this thing to cut the grooves. The inside dia is only like 1 1/4 or so.
They told me like a week for the coupler to get done - I've been trying to get through today to see if they can send everything else now so I can build the case assembly sooner.
One more question - are twin sticks a worthwhile investment for a rig that doesn't see a lot of rocks (ie AZ,CO, CA type wheeling) and mostly East Coast terrain?
FROR has them for $150 currently - Marlins are $199. Not sure I even need that. I guess I can add it later.
Any thoughts on this?
A little more progress today and some comparisons...
6 bolts to remove the VZ bellhousing from the A340F. (the ones around the perimeter - the 4 uppers take a 14mm socket, the 2 lower take a 17mm)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Unbolt the kickdown cable (10mm socket):
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Off she comes...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
A shot of the A340F without the bellhousing:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Bellhousing and Torque converter comparison
VZ version on the left, UZ on the right.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Notice the designation on the bellhousings...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
And the TC's...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here's the finished product:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
The bellhousing bolts right on. No sealant was on either of the bellhousings I removed - the fit is perfect, so i guess it isn't needed.
One other thing - only one of the bolts had thread locker on it (one of the larger lower bolts)
The 4 smaller bolts get torqued to 25 ft lbs. The larger 2 get 42 ft lbs.
Ran into a potential snag. The input on the transmissions I have (A341E and A340F) are not the same. The portion where the splines engage is a little bit different, but the actual length of the input shafts are different which is probably a bigger deal. (A341E has the longer input) The problem is getting the TC to bolt to the driveplate and still engage the splines. It does not appear that it will work.
Here’s a drawing I whipped up showing the difference:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...0Dims%2050.pdf
So, I guess the question is:
Do I swap out the output shaft and tailhousing from the A340F to the A341E
OR
Do I swap the input shaft from the A341E to the A340F? Anyone have an idea which is easier?
I’d prefer to use the A340F trans if possible since it is newer and has better gearing for off-roading.
So, the statements about grabbing any A340x trans and swapping bellhousings to do this swap doesn’t appear to hold water – unless I’m missing something…
Well, I came across an install diagram. You can see it here: http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...stallation.pdf
Looks to be a piece of cake. We'll see... :roll:
I hope all those guts are the same. I really want to use the A340F.... :D
Guess what - swapping inputs IS a piece of cake. Put the a341e input into the A340F and vice versa.
Here's the pic of the A340F input and oil pump.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
The A340F with the input and oil pump removed.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here's the A340F parts and A341E parts (A340F is on the left)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
The ring on the input assembly on the right corresponds to a speed sensor on the A341E. The A340F has a hole for the sensor and the mounting screw. I just need to knock out the freeze plug. I need to figure out is if the sensor in the tailhousing will work instead - looks to be the same, but I need to check their resistance and see what type of signal the ECU is expecting.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here's the A340F area where a speed sensor could go:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...sor%20bung.jpg
Here's the one on the tailhousing of the A340F:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here's the one on the case of the A341E:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here's the input assemblies side by side - notice the A341E shaft is a bitt longer:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Oil Pumps are the same:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
The oil pump drive (splined hollow shaft sticking out) is a little longer on the A341E.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Completed hybrid A340F:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
If someone else is attempting this, you won't need a complete donor trans like I have. I'll figure out the fewest parts needed eventually and get this thing down to a shopping list.
Re: Swapping a 1UZFE (Lexus 4.0 V8) into a 2nd Gen 4Runner
Quote:
Originally Posted by mt_goat
You are either very lucky or damn good or both. :great:
Both! ;)
Actually, I knew that all of the A34_ _ trannies were very similar. (Exception being the A340H) Most of the changes from one version to another was bellhousing/TC to accommodate different engines which must also result in some changes to input shaft length and oil pump shaft length. All it took was one look at assembly instructions and you could see how easy it was to swap them.
Then the other end of the equation is the tailhousings and what works with tcases. I'm making it easy on myself doing the crawler. I could have gotten a tcase from a T100 if I wasn't doing the crawler. To swap outputs, you need to pull the valve body and all sorts of other stuff. I wanted to avoid that if possible.
My Marlin stuff should be here this week. :D
A340F is out of a 2000 4Runner limited. I pulled the tcase off since I'm going dual ultimate.
A340E is out of a 94 LS400. I've harvested the bellhousing, torque converter, input shaft and oil pump off of it.
To explore some more options (research, research, research), I have a bellhousing, input shaft, output shaft and tailhousing coming from a Tundra auto. Just trying to figure out what will be the easiest, cheapest route. I can always sell off my extra parts later...
Guess it's time to get to work...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
MC07 lucky number 2554. :D
Here's a good read on auto crawler tech and gearing:
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=11786.0
Quote:
Originally Posted by mt_goat
Cebby are you planning a valve body upgrade on your A340F?
The 1UZ is right at 250hp in stock trim, but since I'm geared so low (5.29's), I don't think the trans will see as much stress as if I had 4.10's, 4.30's or even 4.56's. If I do eventually supercharge it, then a VB upgrade would be in order. The A341 is basically the same trans internally, so I have faith in the stock VB holding up OK.
I knew I'd read about it somewhere:
Quote:
Originally Posted by [url]www.Off-Road.com
The[/url] A340E/A340F/A340H 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
This is Toyotas ECT (Electronically Controlled Transmission) automatic. It is used in both 22RE (4wd) models and in the 3VZ-E and 22R-TE (both 2wd and 4wd)
1st 2.804, 2nd 1.531, 3rd 1.000, 4th 0.705 Reverse: 2.393.
The 4WD version (A340H) has a transfer case with low-range gearing of 2.659:1
Models designated A340F have (I think) the VF2A transfer case with a 2.566:1 low range
Someone who asked to be anonymous sent the following info:
The codes breakdown is as follows
A 340 H
A = automatic transmission
3 = 3 series
4 = 4 speed
0 = gear ratio / minor change
H = hydraulic transfer case (includes ECT)
F = mechanical transfer case (includes ECT)
E = Electronic Controlled Transmission (used on 2WD 4Runners, other 2WD Toyota vehicles)
This transmission uses 2 solenoids to control the shifting.
solenoid 1 solenoid 2
1 th = ON OFF
2 nd = ON ON
3 rd = OFF ON
4 th = OFF OFF
The throttle cable is used for line pressure, it can be disconnected and
the transmission will still shift normally.
But if youloose power to your 2 shift solenoid, you will be taking off in
OverDrive.
That means the 4 solenoid trannies use a solenoid to control shift quality, while the 2 solenoid version (a340h and old a340f) uses the throttle cable. Either way, this part can be eliminated with no ill effects (just what I've read - I'm not responsible for grenading trannies)
Got to get my hands on it for a little while tonight. Started tearing into one of the two gear drive cases I'll be using.
Easy as pie so far...
The victim:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Hmmmm....greasey:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Halfway there....
I was photographing everything which was eating up too much time. Marlin's dismantle and assembly instructions are SO DAMN GOOD there is really no reason to document it. You can find their instructions here:
http://www.marlincrawler.com/docs/47...install_2.html
OK, last night was maybe 1/4 of the way there as I found out tonight. :eeek:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Barely fits in the bucket...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I'm going to use a parts cleaner on everything, that's why I bagged and packed it up.
Pretty easy dismantle. Only one casualty (OK, actually 3) - one of the alllen head detent screws would not budge. I ended up stripping out the head of it with the 6mm allen, so I hammered a 1/4" allen into it and got it out. :D The other two parts were 2 of the thick snap rings on the shafts - these things are almost impossible to get them off without bending them. The expletives were flying. :pissed:
Hmmm.....Case #2.......deja vu.... :D
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Got the "custom" coupler back from Marlin. The flash washed it out a bit, but basically it is an expansion plug (Dorman 555-120) epoxied into the coupler.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Looks like it should solve the leaking! :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by 914runner
Hey Cebby, does anyone make headers for the 1UZFE?
Thanks
No need.
In addition to the 4 cams, 32 valves, and 6 bolt mains, it also comes stock with tubular headers. :D
Re: Swapping a 1UZFE (Lexus 4.0 V8) into a 2nd Gen 4Runner
Wahoo! Finally got a little time this evening to start moving some of my crap down to the raceshop.
Here's my new little corner of the world:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I made up these shop lights out of some office furniture uplighting - made 2 setups like this. There are wheels underneath to roll them around.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here it is in all its glory:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I think I'll replace the starter contacts NOW. I'd rather not have to pull the intake to do it later...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
How about that new avatar...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
:D
OK, here are some 3VZE engine and vac hose shots for reference. Not really exciting stuff... :P
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
More...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
The last of them...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Discovered that both of my radiator brackets have pulled away from the radiator (both sides)... :mad2: It's getting replaced anyway though... :great:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
A few general questions for everyone:
1. I bought an engine stand. I've never used one. Do I bolt this to the engine where the bellhousing normally bolts up? Newbie question I know...
2. Anyone who has pulled this motor, what sizes of sockets/wrenches are needed? I don't want to truck every single tool I own down to this shop (it's close by, but I'd need to lock up and set the alarm every time I run out, etc.)
3. I know I'll be splicing some wires. I want to get a few spools and was wondering what guage would be a suitable all around wire for hooking stuff up. It will most likely just be computer control stuff mostly. Anything thick, I'll get something specific to that app. For the general stuff, should I go 18 ga or 16ga?
Here's the finished work bench - took it down tonight around 10pm.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/S...20(Medium).jpg
Decided to tear into the ol' girl a bit...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Got the hood, corner markers, turn signals, grille, headlights, battery, and AFM/K&N FIPK removed.
Here's a pic of the 1UZ motor mount. Not sure how it will work with the 3VZ mounts, I guess the 3VZ mount bolts directly to the block - need the other motor out first to verify...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Now to figure out what is missing from the motor. I'm wondering what this is right in the middle with the non-grooved 4 spoke pulley. The connections look like PS pump fittings....hmmmm.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
AC pump and Alt go somewhere on here - either on the left...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
or on the right....
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I'd bet the 2UZ (4.7's) have the accessories in the same place as the 1UZ - Hmmmm......
Quote:
Originally Posted by JD
Also if the 1UZ has the same bolt pattern as a 4.7 then you could use the 5 speed set up from the 100 series V8 Cruiser 5 speed.
We don't get this version here unfortunately. :mad2:
I think there are enough things I can do up front to effectively cool this motor. I couldn't get any good measurements last night to see if the current 4.7 rad would fit, but I feel pretty good about being able to get it in there. That coupled with some serious pusher fans should do the job.
I'd like to use the trans cooler in the rad, but will certainly add considerable auxiliary cooling - likely also fan cooled too.
I think the AC will have to go to the back above the rear axle. I need to see how closely I can tuck the rear of the engine to the firewall to be certain of this though. If there is a way to keep it up front without ill effects, that would be preferred.
I received a Tundra bellhousing, oil pump, output shaft, and tailhousing today. I have a Tundra torque converter coming next week. Between the parts I have with the exception of the input shaft, I have two complete but diffferent approaches to automatic options for this engine coupled to a gear driven case (or two :D )
Opt. 1 - 3rd Gen 4Runner A340F - modified by changing input shaft, oil pump, and bellhousing to items compatible with 1UZ (could be either LS400 trans parts or Tundra/Seq/LC trans parts). Transfer case pulled (wrong side drop) so gear drive case can be used (with Marlin adapter)
Opt. 2 - LS400 Trans A341E - modified by changing output shaft and tailhousing (I'm using Tundra trans parts, but A340F parts could be used also). Gear drive case can be used (with Marlin adapter)
If a crawler isn't wanted/needed, T100's came with A340F trannies and removable chain drive t-cases with the correct side drop for 2nd Gen 4Runners.
Here's the Tundra parts I got today:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by WildHare
I have some thoughts about having a separate ECU for the tranny, suited for offroading use...
From what I've read, there are 2 ECU/TCU package setups for the 1UZ: the LS400/Soarer/SC400 packaging, with ECU and TCU in one box. The other packaging is on what's known as a "Crown", sold in Australia: a separate ECU and TCU.
It might be useful to use the Crown ECU, as I've read that the single piece 1UZ ECU/TCU doesn't like being disconnected from the tranny.. it caused running problems. Has anyone (JD) had experience with a manual tranny and a 1UZ? What are the problems/solutions?
My experience with a 22RE/A340H swap was separate ECU/TCU boxes. The ECU's I played with were functionally interchangable between the Auto and manual tranny vehicles... they seemed identical by markings and connections (save for serial number of course). If this is still true in the 90's on for the A340X series, the following scenario could be possible:
Use a crown wiring harness and ECU with the TCU from an A340F. This could allow the better shift control spoken of, using a tranny controller intended for pickup use.
However, getting ahold of a crown ECU/wiring harness (and wiring diagram information) from Australia would be difficult for us Yankees. Is it possible to use the single piece LS400 ECU/TCU AND a separate A340F TCU (assuming the separate A340F TCU's even exist). I assume that there is some communication between the two, but I don't know how critical it is or how difficult it would be to wire it up.
Good post - raises some interesting questions. While getting the Crown parts would likely be easier for compatibility, it would be pretty tough to duplicate easily in the US - which is also one of the goals of my project. If I were doing a manual trans, I would be rethinking this...
There are all sorts of diagrams available to paying members at Lextreme.com so that part isn't a problem.
Wiring the LS400 ECU/TCU to the trans should not be a huge deal from everything I've read. The shifting is controlled essentially the same between the two (A341E and A340F) trans. The big diffference is the "shift quality" solenoid in A341E that the ECU has a provision for controlling - fortunately it is as simple as not hooking it up.
You raised a good question about a "truck" TCU vs "car" TCU - which brings several questions up. What would be different between two such models? Is the only difference the control of a shift quality solenoid? In normal driving would there be a difference in how they shift? If you can still manually shift the trans in off road situations, is there any benefit?
I'm planning to use the 3rd Gen 4Runner A340F (modded to fit the 1UZ) for a couple of reasons - namely ATF capacity (more) and gearing. What I've not looked into is if the A340F in 3rd Gen 4R and Tacos have a separate TCU. For compatibility with the 1UZ ECU I have I never entertained a separate TCU.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JD
I’m visiting a wreckers tomorrow and will see if there are any V8 Cruisers and check their trans as I’m sure they use a larger model A series and its possible they may have a bigger converter that may be useable.
Oops I forgot but this is my webpage and the auto section is still active :)
HO 4Runner
JD
I'm curious to see about the V8 Cruiser torque converter. I thought all of the 2UZ/auto drivetrains were the same (engine/tranny). That's why I was pleasantly surprised to see the Tundra bellhousing appears to bolt up to the A34X trans case. I'm wondering what the difference in spec is on the LS400 TC and the Tundra TC. If they are physically the same size (this is what I'm anticipating) then the difference is in stall speed or something else internal.
I had not read your tranny page before - thanks for keeping it active. That pic of the bellhousing with the adapter plate for the 302 - was that bolting to the A340H bellhousing? Did you ever end up bolting to a 1UZ bellhousing (with the hump up top for the starter like below - 1UZ is on the right)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I thought you said you had tried a Toy V8 torque converter also (which would require the bellhousing/oil pump/input swap. Ironically, I had tried to get a Tundra input with all the other bits I picked up, but the planetary gears were grenaded. :eeek:
Here's the diff between the TC's side by side so folks know what we are talking about (it's elsewhere here...somewhere). A340F from 2000 4Runner on the left, A341E from LS400 on the right.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I did some work from 11-2 last night, but forgot to bring my camera :roll: so no progress pics. Here's the list...
- 3VZE ECU pulled and the harness pulled into the engine bay from the interior
- Removed the ADD solenoids and related vac hoses
- Removed the misc solenoids and vac hoses from the pass side fender
- Removed the coil and related wiring
- Unhooked the Alt wiring
- Unhooked various ground wires from the block
I need to pickup a large pan to drain some fluids before I can pull the rad, PS hoses, etc. I've never actually drained a cooling system before and not reused the coolant - what is the proper way to dispose of it?
Took some qualiity time looking at the rad and available space. The Tundra rad will not fit. In going to a wider rad, it will need to sit on top of the framerails. This limits my height to about 20" max (if I want my hood to close). My best guess is that a rad 19-20"h x 28"w is going to be the easiest to fit. The stock rad is roughly 22"w x 22"h (slips down betweeen the frame rails slightly and extends above the core support - fits the stock hood bulge in the center.
I have relatives arriving today and staying until Wed next week - probably not a whole lot happening between now and then. At least I'll have a hand for getting the trannies down to the shop... ;)
Not sure if you've seen this article:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20Transtec.pdf
Says the A341 is beefier than the A340 series, but seems to have more to do with shift quality than durability. Since I have both, we'll see how long the A340 lasts. Like I said - I'm determined to make the A340F work out...
Re: Swapping a 1UZFE (Lexus 4.0 V8) into a 2nd Gen 4Runner
OK, 12 hour difference - that should be easy to remember... ;)
Here's a listing of the tranny codes. Shows a different auto trans for the Cruiser (94-on) not sure where this list came from, or when it was published. :dunno:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...ny%20Codes.pdf
Are the clutch plates the items that surround the planetary gears around the input shaft? Was this difficult? If that's the only diffference, I'll switch them before the swap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sschaefer3
With the power of a V8 you'll really need to get a stong high steer on there ASAP. Just an FYI. A-OK? XXOO
I'm considering playing with the centerlink a bit since the 1UZ oil pan sits where my OME stabilizer is. I need to take a good look at it after the engine is situated. Who knows on the SAS - maybe sooner than later...
Cheese is going FROR housing? I remember him having wood for those eons ago. Are the standard 85's too weak? Even with Bobby's 30 spliners? Or does the housing flex too much?
Leafs eh? It is certainly the easiest install and most tested solution. I'm still a little partial to radius arms and coilovers. I'm sure I'll get over it when I add up all the part prices... :eeek:
I found out some interesting info...
The LS400 radiator is 1.5"th x 16"h x 33"w. I think I can enlarge the opening where my AC exchanger is and put it in that position with a pair of pusher fans on the grille side. Then if I have the space, put the AC exchanger on the engine side without a fan.
Then all I need is a gigantic aux trans cooler (or two) and I'll be good to go! :D
Yep, I think that an LS400 radiator just might be the ticket.
Dims: 1.5"th x 16"h x 33"w
How you ask? Here's the plan. With the relatively short height of the LS rad, I can remove the AC condensor from the core support and widen the opening. The rad will sit ABOVE the frame rails roughly where the condensor was and be the first thing to get air. I will mount the condensor behind the rad. Dual 16" electric pusher fans will go in front of everything and should fit behind an unmodified grille.
Not alot of room to work with:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Excuse the crude "sketch"
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...ooling-blk.jpg
I'm thinking some sort of shroud for the pusher fans - not sure what yet. As far as fans, I'm thinking maybe this fan:
http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../prm-19115.jpg
Permacool PRM-19115, 16" reversible. Moves 2950 CFM!! $110 ea.
A couple of folks have cautioned against putting the condensor behind the rad, so I'll need to rethink it. I was also warned against that sort of fan I posted as they have a tendency for the metal to fatigue where the blades are attached and they come flying off. OUCH!
So, I came across this fan:
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...ge/flx-398.jpg
Flex-a-lite FLX-398, $119 ea. 2500 CFM, 17a Comes with a shroud. I will use 2 of these side by side. It's 4" thick though...
I know very little about AC. Anyone know how far away I can relocate the AC condensor from the pump? I'm wondering if I can find a different size/shape condensor that would fit elsewhere. Has anyone heard of running two smaller condensors? (maybe flanking the radiator??) Any AC savvy folks out there?
EDIT: I've found some others that are a little thinner, so this may work out afterall...
Regarding the AC, since the fan on the condensor only covers maybe a 3rd of it, could I get away without it and just use the condensor?
OK, here's a few more pics of the dismantling from the other night. I had an extra set of hands last night, so we took the trannies down to the shop.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I want to get the coolant and oil drained out of everything next. Here's some more shots of the core suppport/rad/AC condensor for reference as I breakout the sawsall!
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Currently, the radator and electric fan extend 6" from the core support toward the engine:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Then the core support and AC fan take up another 4"
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Thanks for the pic JD! It looks like he is planning the fans in front of the rad. The cutting he did is similar to what I had in mind.
I finally got back down to the shop after my weeklong+ hiatus (family in from out of town).
On the Runner, just a couple little things done. The big news is that I got the motor off the skid and up onto the engine stand. For this particular stand, the fingers add roughly 2 7/16 (approx 60mm) to the bolts + thread depth (approx 30mm). So, I got (4) bolts M12 x 1.25tp x 90mm long. No pics of me actually bolting the engine to the stand (too much cursing) :D
How about a good look at that engine...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Got a few things done tonight:
Removed:
Skid
Coolant, ATF and Engine Oil
Bumper and valence
Flex-a-lite fan
Radiator
AC Condensor/Evap./piping
Horns
Hood latch/support
After getting all this stuff out, it appears that I the LS400 rad I was thinking about using is too large. Back to the drawng board...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
OK, I received a Tundra torque converter today. I compared it to the LS400 TC. While there is a slight difference dimensionally, the big diffference is in the weight. Even with some ATF left in the LS400 TC (and virtually none in the Tundra TC), the Tundra TC weighs at least 1/3 more. (Sorry, no scale handy). The top half of the two TC's are virtually identical, the difference lies on the driveplate side of the TC. The Tundra TC measures roughly 12" diameter, while the LS400 TC is roughly 11 3/8".
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
So, the added size and weight should help dissipate the heat associated with the auto trans/crawlers (with adequate coolers installed of course)
Spent 5 hours at the shop tonight. I'm bushed!
Got a good amount done though.
Pulled the trans fluid cooler
Pulled the crossmember
Finished uphooking everything in the engine bay (balance of the AC piping and power steering hoses)
Then I ran into a problem... I can't get any of my damn driveshaft bolts out. I tried everything. I'm going to pickup a set of wobble impact sockets so I can use my impact wrench on those stubborn buggers. Any words of wisdom (other than heat..)
When I ran into this issue, I turned my attention to 1UZ. Time to start tearing into it. Important thing to note: Even if the folks you get the engine from say they drained all the fluids, don't believe it. I flipped mine over and proceded to dump a bunch of coolant on the floor. Then I discovered that my mounting of the engine to the stand was far from balanced - when I flipped it, it about threw me into the air (no small feat!). I found that I was unable to flip it back over, so then I push the engine across the shop to where the chain hoist is. Hook it to the engine and start hoistin'. Phew!
So, then I tear into the engine.
I got the TB and top intake plenum off, then I stripped the existing harness off. I have a couple of sensors to unhook, but for the most part, I'm ready to install the new harness. Here's a few pics of the strippage:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Re: Swapping a 1UZFE (Lexus 4.0 V8) into a 2nd Gen 4Runner (LONG)
I guess it's time for an update. After a long absence, I've been able to spend some quality time with the 4Runner this week. Three separate sessions. Maybe a total of 5 hours or so (?).
Last week, I discovered that the gantry hoist that was at my disposal was too short (due to ceiling height) for me to pull the motor and clear the radiator core support, so I got a folding "Sams Club special" hoist. I think it was around $169. I'm not adding that time into the swap, since I had wanted to get a hoist anyway.
Images are thumbs - click to enlarge.
Session #1
Remove stubborn as a mo-fo driveshaft bolts. This seemed to take forever. Each took a breaker bar and several hard whacks with a deadblow. Pulled the driveshafts. I found it easier to remove the bolts at the diffs - the tcase end seemed to be pressed/rusted in place. I was able to knock these out afterwards, but not while on the vehicle.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Also removed the motormount bolts, disconnected the fuel line, throttle cable, tranny dipstick bracket, tranny fluid lines that went to the radiator, steering stabilizer, shift linkage and a few other misc little things I had missed before. I also took a sawzall to the downpipe at this point.
Here's the downpipe cut - I got in there where I could. I unbolted those two bracket bolts and the bracket dropped to the floor - it probably should have been attached...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Session #2
At this point, the motor is free enough to lift it up and pull forward so I can get at the top transmission bolts. I'm convinced that there is absolutely no way in hell these can be removed any other way since these took a long breaker bar to bust them loose. I removed the top 4 bolts and also removed the starter (let it hang). At this point, I also unplugged the wiring that was on top of the front of the trans. I think I only cracked one connector. The vehicle IS 13 years old.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Dropped the motor/trans back down to the motor mounts and went to work on the other bellhousing bolts. All the while I had the trans/tcase supported by one floorjack with the HF trans jack adapter. This thing works OK, but it is way too tall unless you have your vehicle up on jack stands,some sort of hoist, or a bigger lift/tires - but OK for supporting it while I pulled the motor. There are a few more wiring connectors that need to be removed at this ppoint from the back end of the trans/tcase.
To separate the engine from the trans, I took a long piece of tubing (about 5') and with the engine/trans combo lifted back up slightly (so I could get a sightline to where the BH meets the engine), I took the piece of tube, threaded it through the core support and put it on the edge of the BH flange and gave ti a few whacks with a deadblow. After getting it separated about 1/2", I started to violently yank the hoist back and forth until the engine separated from the trans completely. I was finally able to get the 3.0 up and out. Even with the better clearance of the hoist, I had to lift the engine to the point where the end of the lifting arm was up between the ceiling joists, so I had to do a little monkeying to get the engine over core suppport, but under the joists to a skid I had nearby. That empty engine bay is the most reward part of this swap so far.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
FINALLY!!!
Session #3
I have limited overhead space and didn't want to mess with trying to lift the 4Runner OVER the trans and jack - so with a combo of low profile floorjacks and some finagling, I was able to get the unit safely to the smooth concrete floor where I could drag it out from under. When putting the new trans back in, I really need to modify the HF trans adapter so it isn't so freakishly tall. I don't think I really need the pivot function anyway - didn't use it so far. Fortunately, there are at least 4 floorjacks floating around the shop I'm working in. That was one heavy mutha...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Coming up next - 1UZ to do's (modify fan hydro pump - turn into idler pulley, remove cut-off exhaust collector flange studs, replace fuel rail o-rings, reassemble engine intake, plugs, wires, caps, do cosmetic stuff, mount up the wiring harness, etc), Trans to do's (run oil coolant lines and prep for aux cooler, figure out wiring), and finally Tcase to do's (install 4.7's and doubler assembly) and driveshaft length changes, etc.
At least I finally made some REAL progress...
Re: Swapping a 1UZFE (Lexus 4.0 V8) into a 2nd Gen 4Runner (LONG)
On to the motor mounts...
Well - the previous notion of reusing the existing 3VZE motor moutns was only partially true. The rubber isolators that are a part of the 1UZFE setup are way too tall - not to mention the configuration just isn't going to work. Here's what I'm working with.
This is what the welded mount looks like in the 2nd Gen 4Runner/3Rd Gen Truck with the 3VZE - all of these pics show the drivers side mount - the passenger side is just the opposite, nothing out of the ordinary:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here's the motor mount attached to the 3VZE engine:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here's the mount removed from the motor and bolted back into the 4Runner
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
The nut down inside there holds the part that bolts the engine to the rubber portion of the mount:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here's the 3VZE mount split into its components:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Well, the 1UZFE driverside mount (rubber part) was trashed on this JDM motor, so here's a pic of the passenger side mount - you can see that its quite a bit different then the 3VZE mounts.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here's the 1UZFE mount split into its components:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
And finally, here's a side by side comparison of the two mounts:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I'm going to do something similar to the moutns made by "Sideshow" from Lextreme. He has a 1UZFE in a 2WD 3rd Gen pickup - with NO BODYLIFT. If you've been reading, it has been thought that this swap will only fit with a 2" BL. I have a 1" BL and didn't want to go any higher - Hell, I'd like to take it out eventually. Sideshow used the bottom half of the 3VZE mount and fashioned new part that attaches to the engine. Seems to be pretty simple - I have a front diff to content with though, so mine will be slightly different. Here's a pic of what he did:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).JPG
Well, the idea of removing the guts of the fan oil pump to turn it into an idler pulley seemed simple enough. Little did I know what I was in for. Every puller I tried was ineffective to remove the pulley. So I finally go over to the shop press and have at it.
Good news and bad news. Good news is that I got it off. Bad news is that I pringled the pulley in the process. The pulley is unusable.
So, I initially set out to find an idler assembly that bolts into the same spot. This is available on some models of 1UZ - namely the models that have electric fans. I was told LS400's, but I have yet to confirm that.
Anyway, here's the item I'm referring to:
The offending pulley...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
The whole unit:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
With all the other stuff stripped off:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
It's off - can't tell from the pic, but the pulley is fubar.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here's what's inside:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
For reference, this pulley was right above the crank pulley:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
It turns out that some of the folks on the Lextreme forum have just removed this item and are running a shorter belt. The only potential issue is that the crank pulley then only has about 30% wrap on it down from maybe 50%+. I'm concerned about what might happen with water crossings and belt slippage - plus if I add a higher output alternator for a welder or want to add a supercharger, I might have issues with belts slipping. I'm scouting for a pic of the idler to #1 see if I can locate one or #2 see if it's possible to fabricate something.
Got a little more done today. Nice to be actually reassembling something. Today it was the engine. As you may recall I had stripped the TB, intake, and lower plenum so I could get at the starter to replace the contacts.
Put the coolant pipe back in place and was ready to tackle the injector/fuel rail seals. Had to pull the fuel rail assembly - easy as pie - 4 nuts.
Complete, as it came off the engine...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Fuel rail assembly removed
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Fuel rail assembly (upsidedown)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Injector in the rail - these pull straight out pretty easily.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Rail with the injector removed.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here's an injector removed from the rail. The grommet and insulator was pretty brittle. The o-ring was still pliable, but a couple of injectors came out very easily. There was a little leaking that predicated this teardown.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
The injector with the old parts removed. From the left is the o-ring, the insulator, and the grommet.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here's a side by side with the new part - notice how in the last pic that the grommet was all deformed.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
P/N's (sold by each):
90301-07001 - O-Ring
23291-41010 - Insulator
90480-13005 - Grommet
I pulled the cam covers and cleaned them up nice in a parts washer (note to self, get parts washer for home shop).
They came out nice. Down the road after I've had this thing in and running for a while, I'll consider painting the covers and maybe the intake. Gotta head out to Lowes and find some rubber washers for the cam cover bolts. The old ones were shot.
All cleaned up...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Nice clean looking valvetrain...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
It was good getting the intake back on:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Also discovered that the fan oilpump had another piece I could take off, so fabbing a coverplate to use the stock fan pump housing looks like it will work out.
Here's the other piece of the pump. I need to drive the pins out of the housing still.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Might not look like it, but there is ample clearance for a 1/4 coverplate with pulley attached.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I pulled the cam covers and cleaned them up nice in a parts washer (note to self, get parts washer for home shop).
They came out nice. Down the road after I've had this thing in and running for a while, I'll consider painting the covers and maybe the intake. Gotta head out to Lowes and find some rubber washers for the cam cover bolts. The old ones were shot.
All cleaned up...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Nice clean looking valvetrain...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
It was good getting the intake back on:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Also discovered that the fan oilpump had another piece I could take off, so fabbing a coverplate to use the stock fan pump housing looks like it will work out.
Here's the other piece of the pump. I need to drive the pins out of the housing still.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Might not look like it, but there is ample clearance for a 1/4 coverplate with pulley attached.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Muzz over on Lextreme posted up his combo of the original with new alum grafted in.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Looks like a ton of work to me - I'd prefer to bolt together as much of this as possible for future swappers here in the US. If it fits and I can get it cheap, I'll attempt the 2UZ route. Even if I need to modify the steel part of the pan, it would be much easier.
Here's the Landcruiser version I found over on a tricked out Tundra over at Tundrasolutions (pics by jjc).
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Re: Swapping a 1UZFE (Lexus 4.0 V8) into a 2nd Gen 4Runner (LONG)
God do I love www.car-part.com. Located a 2UZ oilpan about 40 minutes from my house today.
Turns out, I also love stupid people. Some dimwit with an LX470 never changed the oil, so the engine seized. Good for me, bad for them. The boneyard swapped a rebuilt motor into the LX470 and had the seized one for parts.
I got some grea info out of all this and learned a few things.
#1 - the oilpan(s) and pickup tubes are interchangable between 1UZ and 2UZ (probably 3UZ also). Props to Budders On Marlin's board for suggesting this. There is an (*) though (nothing major more about this later)
#2 - the fan oil pump and idler assembly from the 1UZ and 2UZ are interchangable. Again, probably interchangable with the 3UZ also. This was better to spend $40 than to screw around trying to make my own or playing with shorter drive belts. I had already bought the standard 1UZ drive belt, so might as well use it.
#3 - the boneyard will still likely have the 2UZ intake and TB available when I tire of the 250 horses and want to bolt on a TRD blower. :D
In case folks are wondering, the reason for the 2UZ sump is for clearance. Notice all the room around the solid axle in the pics above. Since I'm heading this direction anyway, might as well plan for it. My thoughts (pre-axle swap) is that the 2UUZ pan will allow me to drop the motor down lower and to easily clear my steering/steering stabilizer. (I might be way off, but thats my theory anyway...) The other reason is that I'm much more comfortable customizing the 2UZ steel lower pan, then trying to TIG that cast alum like Muzz did on his. Hell, I could do a totally custom pan off of the 2UZ upper since I can get the flange pattern drawn up now and cut on the waterjet.
I was one with the parts washer tonight. I cleaned both the front sump setup I'm not using and the LX470 version I picked up last week.
Remember when I said I was thankful for stupid people? I was eating those words tonight when it took me at least an hour and a half to clean the sludge out of the oil pickup. With the screen on the pickup end and the severe bends in the tube, threading something down there was a challenge. At first I was using the 1UZ dipstick because I couldn't find a coat hanger. That only reached so far, then I came across a coat hanger to get the rest of the way in there. Mostly is was coming out in small hunks, the consistency of jello. Then I got a few big pieces that looked like large leaches. You know your oil is spent when you can pick it up in chunks... :roll:
Here's the guts of my 1UZ before I pulled the pickup tube.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
The oilpan sure looks alot cleaner now...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I had visions of getting more done, but I didn't head down until after midnight and the pickup tube was an unexpected headache..
I did have some added excitement to the evening. Through the drudgery that was cleaning the pickup tube out, I thought I heard a bottle breaking. So I shut off the parts washer and go check it out. I sort of snuck up to one of the outside windows and looked out. I saw some punk breaking into the back of the gas station across the alley from where I was. I quickly called the police to tell them whats up. I was on the phone with them for maybe 2 minutes max and they had 2 or 3 cars buzzing around the scene (and they caught the perps I later found out via a phone call from the police) Turns out there were two perps. I live in a nice town and want it to stay that way...
For anyone interested, I'm selling off the parts I'm not using @ 4r.corequipment.com.
This is from my two hour session Friday night.
In she goes for one of many test fits...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Love working shoulder to shoulder with the bigblock Vette...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Where it was meant to be...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Discovered a few things with the initial test fit:
- The stock oil filter mount is way too long and will interfere with frame rail. I will need to make/buy a remote mount or something shorter. I'll also investigate other UZ filter mounts - maybe there's an easy bolt on solution...
- The stock exhaust mainfolds stick straight out from the heads which means contact with the steering and the top mounts for the A-Arms. I plan to do some more research on other stock manifolds, but a better solution that I'll likely take on is making a set of equal length runner block hugger headers.
- The rear sump oil pan allows the engine to be set into the engine bay nice and low (as in no body lift required). I figure if this part gets solved, lifting the body higher later and adding a drivetrain lift will be child's play.
- The steel part of the rear sump oilpan will need to be modified slightly to clear the front diff and one of the IFS mounts. The alterations will be pretty minor, so depending on the price of a new lower oilpan, the modified pan might be made toa stock pan or a new one will be built from scratch.
- There's all sorts of space for the engine mounts. That will likely be one of the easier parts of the swap.
Took some manuevering, but I got the engine back nice and close to the firewall.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Lots of room out front for radiator/fan.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here's the stock filter mount without a filter - even a stubby filter won't make it unfortuantely.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
This is before I had it back the whole way, but it still gets into the steering.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
What you can't see in the above pic is that the exhaust manifold is resting on top of the top of the A-Arm mount. Fabricating headers would be a first for me. I would make something similar to (the beautiful work) that "Mudman" from Lextreme did (I'll likely shorten the runners a bit before the collectors though):
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
And at the business end, there's just about an inch between the relay rod and the front of the rear sump oilpan - I forgot to see if the steering stabilizer would fit in it's stock position. I'm sure this thing will be in and out quite a few more times...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
The oilpan will only need to be "taken in" at the corners a little to clear the diff and the driver side IFS mount. (This part has me wishing it was already SFA) It will be a pretty easy alteration though...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Next up, removing the exhaust manifolds and another test fit as well as some measurements...
"Budders" over on Marlin suggested looking at Tundra headers for my exhaust clearance problems. There are a few folks making headers for the 4.7, but I need to confirm that these actually fit the 1UZ heads.
JBA make a shorty header:
http://www.speedyperformanceparts.co.../jba/2010S.jpg
But I've got concerns that the big triangular flange they use won't clear the frame rails.
The other notable are Flowtech headers:
http://www.thepartsbin.com/images/pe...h/12110FLT.jpg
While these are a good efficient equal length design, the tube routing makes them pretty large - I doubt they'll fit the space available also.
These things came out further than I thought, the tale of the tape...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Almost 5 1/2" straight out from the heads. I need something that turns down instead of straight out.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Other side...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
It appears the JBA headers won't work either due to where their shorty layout puts the collector flange (in my case this would be into the firewall. Big thank you to "Brad Bedell" on Lextreme for the pic. (He swapped a 1UZ into a Lexus IS300 Sportcross)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...ortcross35.jpg
Forgot to mention - the 1UZ, 2UZ and 3UZ use the same exhaust port layout...
Check out the fit on Mudman's headers (see pics up above - with blue background)
He did some nice work on fitting those in amongst all of the IFS and tight 2nd Gen engine bay (pics by Mudman from Lextreme):
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Mine will be slightly different, since my motor will sit a bit lower in the frame than Mudman's...
Re: Swapping a 1UZFE (Lexus 4.0 V8) into a 2nd Gen 4Runner (LONG)
Finally got a chance for a 2nd Fitting yesterday. Thought I'd post up some long overdue pics...
These first two are for SuperRunner (shows the speed sensors on the A341E and A340F)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
The additional speed sensor the 1UZ ECU needs to see can be added easily to the A340F (since you need the input/planetary from an A341E which has the sensor tone ring on it already, it should be plug and play)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I pulled the exhaust manifolds off so I could get a better fitting this time around. This was a big improvement... A few shots for reference:
Passenger Side:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Is it just me, or does thing look like it's ALL MOTOR? :D
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Driver Side:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Business End:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
After numerous adjustments, I think this last shot is pretty close to where it will sit. I will have to modify the steel oilpan (may make from scratch - probably easier) - jury is out on the pickup tube for now though. I need to pull the aluminum ring off to mount up the pickup tube and then go for a 3rd fitting. This is close to the final position - shifted it over a little to the right and there was good spacing all the way around.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Here's a guess at the oilpan mods. Might be more, might be less...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Clears the breather extension and ARB line perfectly. Although, I will likely raise it up some for breathing room.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Now that I got it tucked down nicely, the motor mounts will actually be pretty short now. I measured and it appears they will be roughly 2 1/2" to 3" off the stock 3VZ rubber mounts.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I am hoping to remove my 1" BL, but I'm still not sure that can happen yet. Going for low and planning to hack my fenders/footwells.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
(like my shim?)
Did another trial fit of the oil filter mount. Framerail clearance is an issue.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
On the left is the 1UZ filter on the right, the 3VZE. Neither of them make it.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Looks like a relocation or more of a block hugger mount is in order.
Not sure yet, but it appears that the stock steering stabilizer location can be reused. Might be tight with the beefy OME though.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Not exactly tech, but some progress. Pulled the motor apart again...load going for powdercoating... I had all the big stuff hot-tanked.
The cam covers and intake will be dark dark blue and the fuel rails and related stuff and nuts/bolts will be gloss black. The fins on top of the upper intake will be either silver PC or raw and polished/brushed. I plan to paint the plastic plug cover ridges to match (silver).
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I'm looking to clean up the engine bay a bit prior to the next time the motor gets dropped in.
Here's some mystery wiring:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
I think this was the igniter...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
This can come out - my wiring for the ADD solenoids (My ADD went away when I regeared and added ARB's)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Need to shorten up the vacuum hose for the brake booster (I finally got the bolt out of my intake!) and also planning to replace the rear heat tubes (they are the rusty tubes below the booster)
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
This will free up some room! Out with the ABS pump. The FROR full floater setup I plan to use isn't compatible with it anyway...
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).jpg
Sneak peak:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).JPG
It's a nice dark blue - nearly identical to the body color of my 4Runner - I think this pic is close to the real color.
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).JPG
More to come!
It should be noted that the PC work was done by Jeremy Loudin at Loudins Powder Coating. He's great to work with.
More goodness:
Lower intake:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).JPG
Valve Covers:
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).JPG
Thanks All!!
More engine PC done (hub dials too):
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).JPG
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).JPG
http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/9...20(Medium).JPG
