I think its the fuse labeled efi maybe, not sure honestly.
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I think its the fuse labeled efi maybe, not sure honestly.
This is the part of the sending unit that wears out. The wiper wears a hole through the resister where it spends most of it's time, which in my case was from 3/4-1/2 tank. I'm not sure what the repair kit fixes.
http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i...-4KJ6xmB-L.jpg
[img width=800 height=600]http://antinode.smugmug.com/photos/i-vx7jCjP/0/XL/i-vx7jCjP-XL.jpg[/img]
From what Autozone shows, the repair kit is just fuel lines. The gauge itself is working just fine, so I have little concern with it at the moment. It is a "while your in there" job, but I think I would rather spread that money out towards other items needing to be addressed.
Side note: is there anyway to change the settings as to how long a "session" lasts on this forum? Theres been times where I've been reading other threads before posting in here and I've been autologged out.
I assume that when you log in you click the box that says "remember me" or something like that? I'll ask the other staff members.
Unfortunately, it doesn't sound like there's anything we can do about it. This is the first we've heard of this particular problem with the software. There is a known problem where if you try to post a bunch of pictures, it might loose the post, but nothing like this.
Nothing big, I have the remember me tagged, just noticed last time after typing up a post it mentioned I had to be logged in to post.
Anywho, been trying to get this fuel pump replaced. Drained the tank, have it unbolted, fill tube is unscrewed and the main fill tube is off. Haven't been able to get the secondary fill tube disconnected yet, old hosing and its stuck pretty good. Any suggestions on how to get it to loosen up a little?
Found an access panel under the rear seat and disconnected the fuel line but am having issues with a wiring harness connector. Can anyone shed some light on how this is suppose to disconnect? Push the tab in and pull is what I'd assume but have failed repeatedly on this.
[img width=600 height=800]http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/b554/mechanically_declined/4runner/21AC835B-1001-400F-8816-14EC3B60DC2B-17699-00000513CBCAB75E_zps11452691.jpg[/img]
Trying to stay positive on this but I'm getting a little frustrated at the moment. This is the most complicated fuel pump I've replaced, granted its only the 3rd lol.
its just push tab and pull, but it is probably just filled with road grime and dirt... disconnect the negative battery terminal (just to be sure) and spray the connector with brake cleaner to try to remove the grime, wd40 might work too but let it sit to be sure all the residue has evaporated before you plug the battery back in.
skip the brake cleaner and get some electrical contact cleaner. It isn't as harsh on the plastic and will clean up the terminals as well! I have also had to pry them off with a small screwdriver.
So I assume that tab needs to slide under the squared plastic cap? Rather ask a dumb and probably obvious question than break that and make the job harder.
Update:
Got the new pump in, then lost spark. Pulled the wires, no spark a any of them. Feared the timing chain broke, pulled the distributer and turned the motor over while watching the rotor. Rotor spun, whew!
Next thing I did was checked the resistance on the ignition coil. I may redo this test to make sure that I did it properly but was getting a fluctuation between .6-1.0. I'm not sure what the acceptable range is suppose to be.
Followed that up with a text to a buddy who lives out of state. He mentioned that it could be the ignitor but am unaware of its location or testing procedure.
Any other ideas just in case?