Write Up: 3rz/5vz Valve adjustment/shim replacement

Part of a major tuneup should include at least a check of your valve clearance. Hopefully they are all within spec but on the chance that they aren't here's a quick how-to on checking/replacing your valve shims.

First a few tools that you will need. Hopefully you only need this feeler gauge and you can go on your merry way.
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Position the cam so that it is on the side opposite of the lobe and slide one of the teeth in between the cam and the shim (it looks like an oversized quarter imo). For each engine there are tolerances that are within spec.

2RZ/3RZ Valve Clearances: COLD

• Intake: .015-.025mm (.006-.010 in.)
• Exhaust: .025-.035mm (.010-.014 in.)

5VZ Valve Clearances: COLD

• Intake: .013-.023mm (.006-.009 in.)
• Exhast: .027-.037mm (.011-.014 in.)

And this is just a pic of how mine looked.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/11/avurudy4.jpg

Now when you are measuring ensure that you measure twice...or even three times if you like. The gauge should have a slight drag to it. If you have to force it in to the point where the metal flexes it IS TOO BIG. Beyond that every mechanic will explain it differently. When you're doing the math to bring everything back into spec check out the excel spreadsheet. It's an easy way for no errors. Attachment 193

If you have valves out of spec the next part is where the fun begins. Here are the tools that you will need to accomplish shim removal and replacement.

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The top tool is a special tool from Toyota. I only found it one place but it is possible that it can be found in other places. http://www.lceperformance.com/Tool-T...-p/1093079.htm

In addition to measure the shim you will need a micrometer. I picked mine up off of Amazon. You can spend a lot on this piece of equipment however if you are going to use it for this job and maybe one or two more then I would recommend 20 bucks or so. READ the reviews. This is mine I believe. http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-...rds=micrometer

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...633/7992f6.jpg

Ok now that you have the tools keep in mind that you will either have to re-install your shims after you measure them or you will have your engine apart for a couple of days while you wait on shipping. You could try the local dealer for shims too but I ordered mine from LC Engineering. When you pull and measure them remember to write the measurement on the shim itself as well as the position.

http://www.ultimateyota.com/attachme...0&d=1406221778
20

I had quite a few to replace. Be careful as you rotate your engine. If one of your cam lobes falls into the shim bucket then it will be a pita or rotate it back out.

Here are a few pics of me using the tool. While you're looking at the valves you should be able to tell the general condition of the engine or at least whether the oil was changed on time.


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http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/17/3utf.jpg
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Tips and Tricks:

So here are my tips for valve clearance checks and shim removal.

#1 You are going to get filthy and keeping your hands clean will be important. Make sure you have rags

#2 My biggest problem was not being patient. The shims will be suction stuck in the shim buckets. When you have everything set up and you are using a small flathead to pop the shim give it a few seconds or ten.

#3 Have a strong skinny magnet available. After you pop the shim using your screwdriver the book says tweezers or pliers. There might be room for this on a bench but on the 2.7 and I imagine even less room on the 3.4 a strong magnet will help immensely. I was also using a dental scraper (I use it for getting heavy carbon out of delicate areas when cleaning weapons). It helped but be very careful. If the valve prop fails that valve spring has quite a bit of pressure behind it and will break the scraper. Then you are trying to find a tiny piece of metal in an oily mess.

#4 Best not to do it during a block party or kids birthday party. Even with the right tools this is a royal pita and you should swear. Its theraputic for the Toyota.

#5 this is a gimme but write down everything. Make sure to organize it so that you can write it down clearly. Your piece of paper is going to get fubar'd.

#6 I didn't realize that when you remove the shim the cam will rotate in but not rotate out of the shim bucket. Probably best to measure the shim and record it and then slide it back into position if you do not have shims available on scene. I did not do this and I am sure I will pay dearly for this.

#7 Keep your shims! It might be that after doing the math you can swap shims within your engine to make it all work. These puppies are 9 bucks apiece after shipping. Lucky I only have 16.

#8 Position the tool around the cam shaft farthest away from the bearing. Rotate to depress the valve spring towards the interior of the engine. The other little tool is a prop and I put it right by the bearing as the cam is just a tiny bit thicker there and will help you get the shim out. It takes practice to put the prop on the shim bucket edge but after getting the first one it isn't too bad.

#9 the rearmost valve springs are simply a pain. It took me an hour to get two shims out on the backside. There is no room to play with and you are performing by feel alone. Just leave them for last or after you have the hang of it.

#10 Another gimme but take a look at the spark plug seals, valve cover seals, and the little grommit seals that go on the bolts. It might be time to replace those.

#11 **Final Tip**
If you do like I did and remove all the shims that need replacement be very careful to either A: make sure the cam lobes do NOT rotate into the buckets or B: You devise a way to depress the buckets to where you can rotate the lobes out of the buckets.

My version of B was to use two flat head screwdrivers and slide them in where the valve spring prop would go on each valve for the cyl you are working with. With a little force the valve bucket will depress allowing the cam to rotate out. Since I didn't have three hands and my wife gave me the long look when I asked for help BattleWagonActual came over and rotated the engine for me. So if you are by yourself some fancy foot action and or genetic manipulation (growing another arm and hand) might be required.