the stock oil filter adapter interferes with the frame rail, so this adapter was installed. I'll be running JIC (-8AN) connectors/hoses to a remote mount filter
https://i.imgur.com/q5zGIMy.jpg
steering linkage ground down . . . you'll see why in a little bit
https://i.imgur.com/6QgXu4k.jpg
this is the original brake line routing, the 2 lines in the middle had to be moved, the fuel line I added years ago on the right was removed - again, you'll see in a few pics how/why
https://i.imgur.com/FRL0KQJ.jpg
end of day 2 - trans was installed (rear was set on cross member, front was held up with a ratchet strap between the frame rails), engine is test fitted with the oil pan resting on a 5/8" piece of wood on top of the steering linkage (for clearance while I fabbed up the engine brackets, should have gone with a 3/4" piece), and the engine brackets were finalized and painted
https://i.imgur.com/RO5drYg.jpg
the next day, I pulled the engine again to clearance some items. you can see the brake lines which were getting pinched by the valve cover were just moved over to a new bolt hole and the firewall was clearanced a bit with a body hammer. I would have liked to move everything back another inch, but this was the best I could get it.
https://i.imgur.com/RwXuwPN.jpg
clearance after the engine was reinstalled
https://i.imgur.com/Bj97T0z.jpg
steering shaft clearance on the driver side (there's actually a tiny bit more than it looks like) - remember that under acceleration, the engine is going to roll away from it
this is also another reason why I couldn't move it back any further - another 1/2" back and the valve cover would be hitting the steering shaft coupler
https://i.imgur.com/gcaHHmj.jpg
third reason why I couldn't go back any further, the engine is right up on the parking brake cable bracket and speedo cable
https://i.imgur.com/YSmoeOM.jpg
all of this left me with the trans mount about 1" too far forward to drop into the pocket on the trans cross member (more on that later)
https://i.imgur.com/DyPkrgN.jpg
with the weight of the engine on brand new 22RE rubber mounts, the oil pan dropped about 1/2" and was a bit too close (I used 5/8" spacers when I made the brackets). On the plus side, the linkage drops away from the pan when the wheels are turned to either side
https://i.imgur.com/bDIf7xH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/X2rvyKH.jpg
the poly engine mounts I was using on the 7M had 1/4" spacers underneath them, I reused one of the spacers and that gave me enough space to feel comfortable about oil pan clearance. I'll probably add a spacer to the other side as well later
https://i.imgur.com/awcYMGZ.jpg
I didn't get a chance yet to compare how much the stock throttle cable moves vs. how much it takes to open the throttle on the engine, but the 1UZ throttle bracket will obviously not work
https://i.imgur.com/CvxKU32.jpg
i tried moving it forward one set of holes, but it won't work + the mount itself is too thick for the stock cable to allow any adjustment
https://i.imgur.com/zVGkjdn.jpg
back to the trans mount . . . slotting out holes in the cross member and trans mount didn't give me enough shift to get it to bolt up. you know the saying, "if all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail"? well, if you have a welder, anything metal is whatever the hell you want it to be (trans mount cut/rewelded). yes, the welds look crappy, but they passed the hammer test. I don't think anyone changed the tip on the shop welder since I did it about 5 years ago. could have done better with my welder at home, probably going to make a tube crossmember and use a completely stock mount when I have some time
https://i.imgur.com/2eIj1R3.jpg
I believe I won't have to get the rear driveshaft cut or lengthened. From fully collapsed to extended to the point where the slip yoke is right at the edge of the seal is about 3.125". At full droop, I still have 5/8" of an inch before the slip yoke pulls out of the seal and a bit more before the slip yoke comes apart. Once it's on the ground I can remeasure, and if I think it's necessary, I have an old GX470 driveshaft which is slightly longer. The stock one is still only 1/2" more extended than it was originally
https://i.imgur.com/KYnmu8H.jpg
end of day 3. engine, trans, rear driveshaft installed. time for wiring and a few other ancillaries. After 30 years of the slip yoke not moving, the front driveshaft slip yoke is stuck/seized - I'm hoping soaking it and some heat will free it up. Check it out, the hood closes and it looks drivable again:)
https://i.imgur.com/UIV1J2L.jpg