RA64 Celica build

[corax]

Thought about that, but doing so would automatically put me in a modified class at which point I could probably pick a better engine to swap (2JZ for example, if I were going that route). I'm building for Rally Prepared

Rally Stock Category
Stock Rear Wheel Drive (SR)
Stock Front Wheel Drive (SF)
Stock All Wheel Drive (SA)
Preparation allowances:
1. All Cars must be equipped as from the manufacturer, with only
factory installed and port‐installed option packages. Options that
were only part of a package must be present with the entire package.
Complete option packages may be installed after purchase of the
vehicle.
2. Tires must be DOT approved. Tires marked ?For competition only?,
?Not for street use? or similar, are not allowed. No part of the tire
may be modified or altered from its original form, either through
addition or subtraction, other than normal wear. Tires must be the
original size plus/minus 20mm cross section and 5% aspect ratio. No
studded tires are permitted unless ice or snow is present. Studded
tires may not be homemade using bolts or screws. Only street‐legal
studs are allowed. Tires may not interfere with any parts of the car
(fenders, fender liners, suspension, etc).
3. Any air filter may be used, but it must fit in the stock location.
4. The additions of protective equipment are allowed with the following
exceptions:
a. The modifications must only provide protection to the car and/or
occupants and provide no performance advantage.
b. Mud flaps may only be made of urethane and other flexible
plastic derivatives (i.e. no carbon‐Kevlar)
c. Skidplates protecting suspension and drivetrain components may
only be made out of metal, composite materials or plastic
derivatives.
d. Driver restraints and roll cage may be added.
e. Additional or replacement hood and trunk latches are permitted.
All latch systems must be secure.
5. Dress‐up and convenience items which do not give a performance
advantage, reduce the weight of the car, or weigh less than the
replaced standard part they are replacing are allowed (i.e. shift knobs,
pedal covers).
6. ABS and/or traction control systems may be electronically/electrically
disabled but not removed.
7. Vehicle lights may be replaced with alternate bulbs and housing.
Auxiliary lights may be added. The total number of lights shall not be
less than standard.
8. Any brake pads may be used.
9. Fuel may be any type of unleaded, E85, or diesel fuel commonly
available at the pump. Alternative fuels must be pre‐approved by the
event RallyCross Safety Steward prior to the event. No other alcohol
fuels or nitrous oxide are allowed.
10. Any clutch disc or pressure plate may be used provided it fits all the
other unmodified, stock components.
11. Exhaust systems from the catalytic converter back may be removed
or replaced with the following requirements:
a. The exhaust must exit to the rear of the driver.
b. The exhaust must comply with local noise restrictions
12. Any type wheel may be used provided it complies with the following:
Wheels must be of the same diameter and width as the OEM wheel.
Wheel offset (backspace) must be within 0.375"(9.5mm) of original
equipment wheel offset.
13. Shocks/dampers may be replaced with OEM or aftermarket
replacement units intended for the specific year make and model
used. The stock spring must be used as it was on the OEM unit. The
spring perch must be factory welded to the damper or use the exact
attachment method and position as OEM. Adjustable dampers are
only allowed if the OEM unit was adjustable and must retain the same
number of adjustments or fewer as OEM. Remote reservoir shocks
are only allowed if they are exact OEM units.
14. The front sway bar may be added, replaced or removed. A
replacement front sway bar may serve no other purpose than
originally intended by the vehicle manufacturer. In the case where
the front sway bar is also a suspension locating link, stock geometry
and methods of attachment must be maintained.
15. Any wheel alignment settings may be used provided the settings can
be accomplished within the unmodified adjustment range as
delivered from the factory. Any alignment techniques allowed by the
factory service manual from the vehicle manufacturer may also be
used.
16. Aftermarket replacement batteries are allowed provided they are the
same type, group size and location as originally equipped.
17. Spare tires, tools, jacks, and any related covers may be removed.

Rally Prepared Category
Prepared Rear Wheel Drive (PR)
Prepared Front Wheel Drive (PF)
Prepared All Wheel Drive (PA)
Preparation allowances:
1. All Rally Stock category modifications are allowed.
2. Any sway bars and their mounting may be used or removed.
3. Any brakes may be used.
4. Exhaust systems from the cylinder head exhaust ports back May be
replaced with any material with the following requirements:
a. The exhaust must exit to the rear of the driver.
b. The exhaust must comply with local noise restrictions.
5. The intake system upstream from the throttle body may be replaced
with any material. Forced induction components cannot be changed
or added (turbochargers, superchargers, intercoolers). Turbocharger
boost regulation systems, either electronic or mechanical, may be
modified or replaced.
6. Short shift kits are allowed.
7. Front and/or rear strut tower bars are permitted.
8. Any dampers may be used but the damper must mount to the original
mounting position using unmodified mounting points. Springs may
also be replaced, but they must be of the same type and use original
mounting points. Threaded collars and camber plates are allowed.
9. Electronic engine controls may be modified or piggybacked, but not
replaced.
10. Any tire is allowed except homebuilt studded tires.
11. Any front seat may be used, provided the seating surface is fully
upholstered. This does not permit the substitution of a passenger?s
seat with a child or miniature seat of any type. Any substituted
passenger?s seat must be sufficiently large and strong to be capable
of adequately accommodating an adult, such that it could be used as
the driver?s seat. Cars may have no fewer than the original number of
seats. Seat belts are required in all cars; however; the number of
attachment points may not be less than originally equipped.
Installation of shoulder and lap belts is strongly recommended.
Additional belts must be installed per the belt manufacturer's
recommendations.
12. Any non‐metallic bushing is allowed.
13. Wheels are unrestricted.
14. On carburetor equipped cars, any bolt on intake manifold or
carburetor may be used. Any air filter system and associated parts
may also be used.
15. Vehicles may substitute one differential with a mechanically governed
limited slip or locking unit of an alternate type. This includes spools
and welded stock differentials. This does not allow the use of a
differential with external controls (electronic or otherwise) to
regulate slip or locking. Differentials must be contained in a stock
unmodified housing/third member with stock or optional ring and
pinion ratios available for the specific model, body, and year of the
vehicle only. 4wd vehicles may not substitute more than one
differential with an alternate type.
16. Batteries may be substituted with any type. Relocation of the battery
or batteries within the engine compartment or trunk area/luggage
compartment behind the rearmost seats is permitted. Longer battery
cables may be substituted to permit relocation and holes may be
drilled to accommodate mounting of the battery and cables.
17. Accessory drive pulleys and belts may be replaced.
18. Any clutch disc or pressure plate may be used.
19. On automatic transmission vehicles, any torque converter may be
used.

[Crinale]

Keith, you realize a well sorted 2/3rz can make the same power levels as a 2jz right? and it will fit a lot easier into your engine bay. There are daily driven 2rz's (can take more boost due to the shorter stroke) in the 7-800hp range.. Personally I would go that route for a little less weight in front.

and looks like the nearest rally cross events are out in Johnson Valley and in the Palm Desert, both of which are about 5-6+ hours drive for me..

[corax]

Yep, in fact there's a local up here that swapped a 2RZ into his 3rd gen Celica. IIRC, he left the internals stock and was claiming 28mpg. I like the 2RZ's over-square design and I know there's plenty of potential for it. One downside is that the exhaust and intake are on opposite sides than the 22RE. No big deal, but crossing the exhaust over would kill a little bit of ground clearance and create something to snag (less so if I used oval tube). The BEAMS 3SGE, however, has the exhaust on the correct side, is a "square" engine and has nearly, or over, 200hp to start. Plus, I've found a seller online that is selling the BEAMS with a 6 speed manual, harness & ECU for ~$1500.

Either way, that's a conversation for further down the road. For now I want to stay in the lower rallycross classes which means I keep the 22RE. BTW, I just realized that Engnbldr is only 3 miles from where I live

[Obi..]

@Crinale, thanks, I though I lost him there for a second.

@Corax, BEAMS IS NICE, but has it's quirks too.

Back to reading and dreaming of hoonage.

[Crinale]

Ah, gotcha Keith that BEAMS engine sounds interesting though.. the 3sge is an interesting motor, did that ever come in a front engine rwd setup? I thought it was just in non turbo 2nd gen mr2s and corollas and such..

[corax]

It was available as front engine/RWD in the Altezza / RS200 (we never got those here).

According to BEAMS owners group:

The fourth generation 3S-GE, also known as the BEAMS 3S-GE began production in 1997. The first version was equipped with VVT-I and produced 197 bhp (147 kW, 200 PS) @ 7000 rpm. It was available in a few models sold only in Japan - the MR2 G and G-Limited, the Celica ST202 SS-II and SS-III and the Caldina. BEAMS is an acronym which stands for Breakthrough Engine with Advanced Mechanism System.

In 1998 a second version was released with dual VVT-i (variable timing on both the intake and exhaust cams), titanium valves, battery-backed injectors and a slightly higher compression ratio (11:1 instead of 10.5:1). This engine powered the Altezza RS200 and produced around 207 bhp (154 kW, 210 PS) @ 7600 rpm.

The two variants are easily identifiable by colour. The cam covers on the earlier model are red and on the later model, black. They are often referred to as the "Red Top" and the "Black Top" respectively.

The "Grey Top" BEAMS 3S-GE was an available engine option in the Rav4 in Japan. Even though the valve cover on this engine is black, it is referred to as "Grey Top" to differentiate it from the Dual-VVTi "Black Top" in the Altezza. Power output is 177 bhp (132 kW, 180 PS) @ 6600 rpm.

[corax]

I recently traded a sticker for an old Corbeau Forza seat, today I sorta kinda got it installed.

I attached some shallow channel to an extra pair of seat sliders that I have - the channel is welded and bolted to the sliders so it's pretty solid


bolted that to the seat


and bolted the seat into the car


Then I took it all out of the car and put the original seat back in. The upright seating position is OK, except my head is still hitting the roof - I was hoping this seat would drop me low enough to gain a bit of head room. AND, the stock 3 point seat belts wouldn't work very well will the high bottom bolsters, too much space between me & the lap belt (that could be fixed by feeding the buckle through one hole and the belt through the other). So I think I may sell this seat & go on the hunt for a good reclining seat or maybe something else . . . mainly looking for something with a bit more side support

[Obi..]

OK, you got my curiosity piqued now.


What was the sticker b/c it had to have been an old school collectible one, right?

I only ask b/c after some of us out here sold stuff off at a recent SWAP Meet and now we see O.S.S. is selling them on ebay. I got $25 for the 4 pictured below and thought it outrageously overpaid, apparently not. he's making a killing reselling them.
http://compare.ebay.com/like/2710078...Types&var=sbar
http://compare.ebay.com/like/3904576...Types&var=sbar
http://compare.ebay.com/like/3208303...Types&var=sbar
http://compare.ebay.com/like/3209614...Types&var=sbar

[corax]

OK, you got my curiosity piqued now.

What was the sticker b/c it had to have been an old school collectible one, right?

No, not really collectible. Just a regular sticker I got from one of the Dirty Drifter co-drivers at the Olympus Rally. Just like the one on the wing of this Subie

Dirty Drifters: A dedicated crew of motorsport hooligans! We have no particular mission or end outcome to our crusade, just a shared unquenchable thirst for sleepless nights filled with gear oil-soaked agony only to absorb minutes of dusk light glory!

[corax]

I like idiot lights. I'd rather not have to keep looking down at the gauges just in case something is going bad when a light can come on instead to warn me. So I pulled my cluster at lunch today to install some LED warning lights for coolant temp & oil pressure. The oil pressure switch for the engine is faily universal and can be snagged from any car in the junkyard that doesn't have an oil pressure gauge, just look for a small single wire sensor near the oil filter. I haven't decided on a coolant temp switch yet - one from a GM would work (and uses a fairly universal NPT pipe thread), but those come on at 228 which is a bit high. The Supra 7MGTE aux fan switch is what I have on my 4runner's warning light and that comes on at 220 (about 7/8 of the way to pegged on teh gauge), but i haven't had much luck finding one yet. Either way, the temp switch will probalby get mounted to the intake below the factory temp gauge sensor, there's already a plug there which would make it easy if it's tapped for pipe thread. Both sensor types (oil & coolant temp) work by giving a ground, so the LEDs can get power locally and I just need to run 1 wire for each circuit into the engine bay.

I skipped a couple steps, but it's fairly straight forward getting most clusters out. The cluster's clear plastic part is held on by little catches around the perimeter and 2 screws on the bottom - start at one corner & just work your way around a little bit at a time until it's off. Be careful not to touch the oil pressure needle or you'll mess up the gauge . . . actually, try not to touch any of the needles if possible. Once the clear plastic is off the front, remove all the screws from the back so the gauges come out of the cluster body. It helps if you draw the rough shape of the cluster on a piece of paper and lay the screws out on the paper approximately where they came out of: there are different diameter and length screws.

this is what it looked like apart - plenty of room in there


this is with the holes drilled & LEDs installed - connect the B+ red wires together, those go to switched ignition power. I was careful where the holes were drilled so there wouldn't be any interference from the cluster housing once it was reassembled.


route them around and out of the way, make sure the wires won't get pinched between the back of the gauge and the cluster housing (like the red & black wires are doing on the temp gauge in this pic). make sure they won't block any of the back-light bulbs or get near moving bits (speedo)


Snip a small bit of plastic off this tube so the wires don't push the gauge face out when it's assembled. The other option is to drill a hole in the back of the cluster housing. Before you reassemble everything, make sure there are no plastic bits floating around from drilling your holes. Also make sure the gauge face is clean of any fingerprints or grease smudges.


wires fished out the back and cluster reassembled. Most of the screws make an electrical connection to one gauge or another, so make sure they're snug but no overly tight. I waited to get the cluster back together before tightening the screws so I wouldn't be pressing on the gauge needles. The B+ wire (white in my case) is going to get a small eyelet and attached to the switched ignition screw to the right of where they come out (see the screw that says IG+ next to it)


finished product. Now I have a yellow light to warn me if the temps creep up & the red is for oil pressure, both near their respective gauge, all I have to do yet is install the sending units and run the wire (there will of course be a 2 pin connector at the cluster to ease removal in the future). Oh yeah, now is a good time if you want to try to polish the cluster plastic to make it pretty.