RA64 Celica build

[Crinale]

Nice! Being born in the 80s and not really being around old cars much, I forget that little things like idiot lights weren't always there.

[corax]

Nice! Being born in the 80s and not really being around old cars much, I forget that little things like idiot lights weren't always there.

. . . and it doesn't have a clutch pedal interlock - it'll start without having to step on the clutch pedal
Must have been made in a time when people were less likely to sue for their own mistakes

[DHC6twinotter]

So much good tech in this thread! Thanks for posting this, Keith!

[Crinale]

Nice! Being born in the 80s and not really being around old cars much, I forget that little things like idiot lights weren't always there.

. . . and it doesn't have a clutch pedal interlock - it'll start without having to step on the clutch pedal
Must have been made in a time when people were less likely to sue for their own mistakes

haha, although my BMW will start without the clutch depressed too, and its an 86. But I just never think bout those things..

[04 Rocko Taco]

my '84 runner has no clutch safety switch either, my wife nearly ran me over when I asked her to turn it over one time in the shop. lol.

[Crinale]

my '84 runner has no clutch safety switch either, my wife nearly ran me over when I asked her to turn it over one time in the shop. lol.

lol, that would have been an interesting situation to witness..

[corax]

latest project: electric fans

I got the idea to use a BMW dual temp switch from this thread: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200028 and chose the 195*/210* switch - I'll decide over the next few days if this was the right switch to use.

BMW 80 / 88* C (180/195*F) dual temp switch Part # 61318361787
BMW 91 / 99* C (195/210*F) dual temp switch Part # 61311378073

With that switch, I built a triple relay system to control the fans. When the low temp switch is closed the fans run in series, keeping them at a lower speed. When the high temp switch trips both fans run in parallel with their own power & ground. I'm hoping for increased efficiency with both fans running during low speed operation since air will be getting pulled through the entire length of the radiator (less cycling to high speed) + it won't have the "short circuit loop" if only 1 fan was running where air gets drawn in from the back-side of the non-active fan, across (not through) the radiator and back through the single active fan - if that makes sense. For now I'm using a 50A Maxi blade fuse. Low speed operation draws about 5.5A with an initial spike of right around 30A (the spike only lasts a split second). On high speed the fans draw 17 & 11 amps respectively with a nice heavy initial spike of nearly 90A.

For the diode in the diagram above I used a 50V 3A epoxy rectifier diode from Radioshack (p/n 276-1143)

I was lucky enough to find a thermostat housing with a sensor bung cast into it. To mount the BMW switch I tapped out the existing hole to 3/8"x18 NPT (originally 16mm x 1.5 IIRC). I tapped a brass adapter to 14mm x 1.5 to accept the sensor & threw it all together. The only thing I don't like about this setup is that there might be an air bubble below the sensor tip since it doesn't extend into the coolant. Oh yeah, I didn't want to spend $20 for the all the pieces to put the BMW connector together so I took male blade connectors and pushed the part the the wire would normally go in onto the sensor posts and then lightly soldered.


Switched ignition voltage for the relay coils comes from the + post on the ignition coil - it's powered directly from IG2 relay, so nothing is getting taxed. In the future I may move the relay power wire to the Fuel Cut Relay (fuel pump power) so the fans only run when the engine is running - that way the fans won't drain the battery if I stop the engine but leave the ignition on. I couldn't find any other circuits in the car that only get power with the engine running. I haven't run the wire into the cabin for the high speed over-ride switch yet.

This is how I mounted the fans onto the radiator, the holes on the radiator sides were already there. I drilled the shroud for the studs by setting the fans on the radiator, putting the drill bit through both holes on the piece (works as a guide) and then just punching a hole through the plastic. It's double nutted so the side rail doesn't get deformed or tweaked when the fan is tightened down.


the bottom had to be trimmed a little bit to get the fan up against the radiator. Any significant gap between the fans & the radiator will reduce how much air actually gets drawn through the radiator + it's a little tight by the power steering pump, so extra clearance is welcome.


All mounted up & wired. These fans really are a near perfect fit for the radiator.






There's just enough room between the p/s pump and the fan to slide the belt past, so it's close but I'm not afraid of it ever hitting

[corax]

finally fixed the center pedestal on the 1st gen MR2 wing so it reaches down to the trunk lid. The center post isn't actually screwed down, just resting against the lid, which should be fine - it's not going anywhere

the main component, about 1.5 rolls of this. Pro tip: warm it up in a glass of hot water before trying to knead it together (works to make regular JBWeld mix easier also)


minor frame to keep the JBWeld in place, every nook & cranny was filled with the JB. the tape is to keep the JB from permanently attaching itself to the paint (a little bit of wax on the tape helps it to release later)


I kept adding small pieces until it was the general shape I wanted


Some of the extra material knocked down with a rasp, sanded, painted, & good enough for me. I added a bit of black FIPG (RTV) around the bolt holes because water was leaking into the trunk lid frame and into the trunk itself.

[04 Rocko Taco]

I really like the fans! Near perfect fit for sure, and good work on the wing support!

[Crinale]

Looks good there Keith